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Posted: 3/17/2006 9:15:13 AM EDT
I saw an ad in shotgun news that has a company selling lighter trigger spring for the ar-15. Anybody install a lighter spring in their trigger and did it help, did it cause problems what. Let the flaming begin.
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 9:31:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/17/2006 6:14:05 PM EDT by Wewa]
I've used a JP spring kit from Brownells... works great. You can to do a polish job with some "Flitz". Key word is polish not file or stone. You do not want to remove metal. Be advised a warning with the kit states "Not for law enforcement or military use!" If you are LE, do not install in a duty weapon you carry!!

The JP spring kits helped with a lighter trigger pull and the polsihing is not a necessity. I've had no problems with light hammer strikes.

Good luck! ignore the flamming ...it only comes from flammers!! Enjoy your AR!!
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 10:07:38 AM EDT
whoa! member since '02 with 10 post?

talk about lurking.

i use the jp yellow springs in my 9mm and they work fine and as advertised though i didint do any polishing, just threw them in.
Link Posted: 3/18/2006 5:01:36 AM EDT
here are some numbers i got with putting lighter springs on a stock RRA setup no polish.

Standard RRA 8 lbs 6 oz
JP springs 4 lbs 10.3 oz
Yellow Tavern springs 5 lbs 14.5 oz
Link Posted: 3/18/2006 5:11:16 AM EDT
I have a set of JP springs as well. Great, makes a big difference!
Link Posted: 3/18/2006 9:44:08 AM EDT
Can you elaborate on the "flitz" ploish process. this sounds like what I'm looking for? What is it, where can I get some, and do I need a gunsmith to do it?

thanks.

Lovesbeer 99 (but shoots safe)
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 1:40:13 AM EDT
I have a set of Yellow Taverns in my rig. I couldn't take the stock mil-spec trigger. It was pretty bad.

The flitz technique involves using a dremel tool with a small buffing wheel. Put some flitz polish on it and polish the engagement surfactes.



I did it. Everything made the trigger much better, but there is still LOTS of engagement surface giving me quite a bit of creep. I"m not too concerned, it's not a Varminter, and I've really gotten pretty used to it.

Gundraw
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 4:00:13 AM EDT
where do you get the yellow springs, and how is the pull?
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 5:40:26 AM EDT

Originally Posted By machinehead:
here are some numbers i got with putting lighter springs on a stock RRA setup no polish.

Standard RRA 8 lbs 6 oz
JP springs 4 lbs 10.3 oz
Yellow Tavern springs 5 lbs 14.5 oz



that is my pull weights from a couple of posta above. there both avalible at brownells. teh yellow tavern are about 4 and the jp about 10
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 7:05:03 AM EDT
thanks
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 8:06:36 AM EDT
Go on Brownells web site and put in part # 452-000-007 for JP Enterprises AR15 reduced power spring kit. Will cut your trigger pull in half but won't change take up. They recomend light weight hammer. On my ARs, i cut the hammer tang off with a dremal to make my own light weight hammer so lighter springs will be able to drive hammer faster so as to have same striking force as original. Take a look at JP Enterprises light weight hammer and you will see that its a standard hammer with tang cot off. Have done this on 3 ARs with no problems, even on harder primer ammo.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 2:12:10 PM EDT

Originally Posted By nraluke:
Go on Brownells web site and put in part # 452-000-007 for JP Enterprises AR15 reduced power spring kit. Will cut your trigger pull in half but won't change take up. They recomend light weight hammer. On my ARs, i cut the hammer tang off with a dremal to make my own light weight hammer so lighter springs will be able to drive hammer faster so as to have same striking force as original. Take a look at JP Enterprises light weight hammer and you will see that its a standard hammer with tang cot off. Have done this on 3 ARs with no problems, even on harder primer ammo.



+1, me too, but only on one hammer so far. I used a Birchwood Casey touch up pen to cover the bare metal and it looks pretty nice and shouldn't rust any faster than the other areas of the hammer. I still notice a little creep but not enough to make me buy a match trigger, and I do intend to use this setup for prairie dog hunting.
Link Posted: 3/22/2006 3:20:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2006 3:23:01 PM EDT by r4nger]
I also have the JP yellow springs in AR and it made a big difference in the trigger. Much smoother, lighter trigger pull, for the price it's a nice upgrade for the stock trigger!

Oh and "flitzing" the engagement surfaces works like a charm, much smoother.
Link Posted: 3/23/2006 9:31:40 AM EDT
DAMN YOU ALL!!! i see things like this and have to have it. I just placed the order for the lighter springs....mind you have not even shot my new bushmaster M4A3 yet. I am waiting for the Clone Aimpoint to come in so i can sight it in. I will never get to shot this badboy always waiting for parts. :)
Link Posted: 3/23/2006 12:51:25 PM EDT

Originally Posted By calimove:
DAMN YOU ALL!!! i see things like this and have to have it. I just placed the order for the lighter springs....mind you have not even shot my new bushmaster M4A3 yet. I am waiting for the Clone Aimpoint to come in so i can sight it in. I will never get to shot this badboy always waiting for parts. :)




i would shoot it first before installing any parts that will effect functioning, that way if something does go wrong you will be able to pinpoint it easier.
Link Posted: 3/23/2006 1:25:17 PM EDT
Anybody have ignition problems after installing one of these springs? I have heard talk that a lighter spring, especially if you use a lighter hammer too, can have trouble igniting military primers. Of course I also know that in some armorers classes they cut a leg off of the spring just to prove it will still work. So I was wondering.....
Link Posted: 3/23/2006 1:33:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Anybody have ignition problems after installing one of these springs? I have heard talk that a lighter spring, especially if you use a lighter hammer too, can have trouble igniting military primers. Of course I also know that in some armorers classes they cut a leg off of the spring just to prove it will still work. So I was wondering.....



I have not yet been able to shoot with my lightened hammer setup, but I believe a lighter hammer will help the situation. My setup is a copy of the JP hammer...not as nice, obviously. It comes down to whether you believe the mass of the hammer or the speed at which it strikes the firing pin is the important factor. I think speed matters most because the firing pin floats, and is well on its way as soon as the hammer strikes it. The inertia generated by the mass of the hammer shouldn't matter as much as it would in some sort of fixed-firing pin setup. Then again, I have NO physics background so take that for what you paid for it.
Link Posted: 3/24/2006 7:09:08 AM EDT

Originally Posted By whoanelly:


I have not yet been able to shoot with my lightened hammer setup, but I believe a lighter hammer will help the situation. My setup is a copy of the JP hammer...not as nice, obviously. It comes down to whether you believe the mass of the hammer or the speed at which it strikes the firing pin is the important factor. I think speed matters most because the firing pin floats, and is well on its way as soon as the hammer strikes it. The inertia generated by the mass of the hammer shouldn't matter as much as it would in some sort of fixed-firing pin setup. Then again, I have NO physics background so take that for what you paid for it.


I'd also like to see some information on the lightened hammer's effect on firing pin strike energy. Though there are plenty of cut hammers in custom trigger group kits,I'm curious about the physics of it.
I just modified my hammer spring and trigger spring last night,but didn't cut the hammer down. I'm going to test it after work today. If it doesn't work 100%,I may try cutting the hammer.
The pull sure is nice now.
Link Posted: 3/24/2006 9:12:58 AM EDT
I installed the JP springs about a year ago. I noticed getting light strikes once every 200 rounds or so using a standard M16 hammer. The trigger pull was nice but not worth the loss in reliability. I polished up the contact surfaces and replaced the hammer spring with an extra power one, and ended up leaving the trigger return spring. The result, 100% reliable strikes with about a 5 lbs. trigger pull.

The way I understand the physics behind the lighter hammer, it's based on the same reason a bullet is more deadly than a knife. A smaller mass traveling faster can ignite the primer just as well as a heavier, slower moving hammer.
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