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Posted: 3/2/2006 8:59:52 AM EDT
I have a bushy 20" Barrel that I have been trying to remove the FSB. The pins are really in there and can't be removed. I have tried putting the barrel in the freezer, and driving the pins out with some roll pin punches and a hammer. No luck.

Are there any other tricks that I can use to get this thing off without destroying the FSB?
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 9:11:19 AM EDT
I'm assuming you have read this thread here: www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782, which is tacked to the top of this forum....

If that 's the case, get a bigger hammer.

Mike
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 9:59:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/2/2006 10:01:06 AM EDT by silverc]
I am familiar with AR gunsmithing and have removed many FSB pins before. These ones however are giving me some difficulty.

Can you buy something similar to a roll pin punch that is concave to fit over the rounded Bushy FSB pin? I tried driving them out using my roll pin punches (which worked in the past on flat RRA pins), but they keep sliding off this time.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 10:11:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By silverc:
I am familiar with AR gunsmithing and have removed many FSB pins before. These ones however are giving me some difficulty.

Can you buy something similar to a roll pin punch that is concave to fit over the rounded Bushy FSB pin? I tried driving them out using my roll pin punches (which worked in the past on flat RRA pins), but they keep sliding off this time.



Yes, Brownells sells just such a punch:

827-530-320 TAPER PIN STARTER - This tool's radiused face matches the end of the front sight housing taper pin to prevent damage during removal. Its tapered pin is removed by driving from left to right; the small end is on the left side of the barrel, the large end is on the right side!

Works for me.
Mark
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 1:28:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/2/2006 1:37:08 PM EDT by 556Cliff]

Originally Posted By mark4:

Originally Posted By silverc:
I am familiar with AR gunsmithing and have removed many FSB pins before. These ones however are giving me some difficulty.

Can you buy something similar to a roll pin punch that is concave to fit over the rounded Bushy FSB pin? I tried driving them out using my roll pin punches (which worked in the past on flat RRA pins), but they keep sliding off this time.



Yes, Brownells sells just such a punch:

827-530-320 TAPER PIN STARTER - This tool's radiused face matches the end of the front sight housing taper pin to prevent damage during removal. Its tapered pin is removed by driving from left to right; the small end is on the left side of the barrel, the large end is on the right side!

Works for me.
Mark



I destroyed that Brownells punch on my Bushy FSB pins.

Randall @ AR15 Barrels.com was working on a tool to make this real easy. You might want to call or E-mail him about it and then report back here and tell us if it's ready yet.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 2:16:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By silverc:
I am familiar with AR gunsmithing and have removed many FSB pins before. These ones however are giving me some difficulty.

Can you buy something similar to a roll pin punch that is concave to fit over the rounded Bushy FSB pin? I tried driving them out using my roll pin punches (which worked in the past on flat RRA pins), but they keep sliding off this time.



Do you mean a pin punch? Roll pin punches have a rounded "tit" that fits inside the end of a roll pin to keep it from collapsing.

As for removing taper pins, I use a Stanley 3/32" nail set. It has the concave end that you mentioned.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 2:31:25 PM EDT
B I G G E R H A M M E R ! ! !

Invisiblesoul
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 2:43:30 PM EDT
1. Soak overnight in Kroil.
2. Rest FSB in block of wood.
3. Use at least a Half inch size punch. So it does not slip off (Or bend & break) when striking.
Forget about using all the special concave tip punches.
4. Use a Big Hammer (I Use & old 7lb brass hammer I found in my grandfathers basement)
5. HARD RAPS, Not alot of small raps, Solid Direct Hard raps, Dont' hold back.
after they break free use a small punch to finish the job.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 3:00:17 PM EDT

Originally Posted By garr:
1. Soak overnight in Kroil. Agree.
2. Rest FSB in block of wood. Agree, although there are other ways to support it.
3. Use at least a Half inch size punch. So it does not slip off (Or bend & break) when striking.
Forget about using all the special concave tip punches. Why not use the concave-tipped punches? That's what we were taught to use in armorer's class. They keep the punch centered on the taper pin.
4. Use a Big Hammer (I Use & old 7lb brass hammer I found in my grandfathers basement) Many of the really knowledgeable builders (Tweak is one that comes to mind) only use an 8-ounce hammer. We used a 16-ounce hammer in armorer's class and only had one pin out of 48 that refused to budge.
5. HARD RAPS, Not alot of small raps, Solid Direct Hard raps, Dont' hold back.
after they break free use a small punch to finish the job. Agree.



Link Posted: 3/2/2006 3:38:00 PM EDT

Originally Posted By 556Cliff:

Originally Posted By mark4:

Originally Posted By silverc:
I am familiar with AR gunsmithing and have removed many FSB pins before. These ones however are giving me some difficulty.

Can you buy something similar to a roll pin punch that is concave to fit over the rounded Bushy FSB pin? I tried driving them out using my roll pin punches (which worked in the past on flat RRA pins), but they keep sliding off this time.



Yes, Brownells sells just such a punch:

827-530-320 TAPER PIN STARTER - This tool's radiused face matches the end of the front sight housing taper pin to prevent damage during removal. Its tapered pin is removed by driving from left to right; the small end is on the left side of the barrel, the large end is on the right side!

Works for me.
Mark



I destroyed that Brownells punch on my Bushy FSB pins.




+1..that Brownells thing is useless...

I hope Randall is coming out with something different.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 3:58:57 PM EDT

Originally Posted By garr:
1. Soak overnight in Kroil.
2. Rest FSB in block of wood.
3. Use at least a Half inch size punch. So it does not slip off (Or bend & break) when striking.
Forget about using all the special concave tip punches.
4. Use a Big Hammer (I Use & old 7lb brass hammer I found in my grandfathers basement)
5. HARD RAPS, Not alot of small raps, Solid Direct Hard raps, Dont' hold back.
after they break free use a small punch to finish the job.



+1

I found the main thing that makes this easier is the Kroil.

Have a friend hold the barrel, support the barrel on 2x4 under the FSB and the barrel behind the FSB.

By the way replace those tappered pins with roll pins, you dont need to reuse the tappered pins.

My 2 cents.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 8:16:56 PM EDT

Originally Posted By M4Madness:

Many of the really knowledgeable builders (Tweak is one that comes to mind) only use an 8-ounce hammer. We used a 16-ounce hammer in armorer's class and only had one pin out of 48 that refused to budge.
Why not use the concave-tipped punches? That's what we were taught to use in armorer's class. They keep the punch centered on the taper pin.

Same answer to both questions.
Some of the Bushy Pins I have come across are in Very very tight, Way beyond pins found on Military issue barrels (Why I Have No Idea), The light hammer won't cut it & The concave punches will bend before the pins are out.
PS: On Military Barrels (Colt, FN, SACO Etc..) I have never had any trouble removing the pins using the light hammer & light punches





Link Posted: 3/3/2006 8:45:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By garr:

Originally Posted By M4Madness:

Many of the really knowledgeable builders (Tweak is one that comes to mind) only use an 8-ounce hammer. We used a 16-ounce hammer in armorer's class and only had one pin out of 48 that refused to budge.
Why not use the concave-tipped punches? That's what we were taught to use in armorer's class. They keep the punch centered on the taper pin.

Same answer to both questions.
Some of the Bushy Pins I have come across are in Very very tight, Way beyond pins found on Military issue barrels (Why I Have No Idea), The light hammer won't cut it & The concave punches will bend before the pins are out.
PS: On Military Barrels (Colt, FN, SACO Etc..) I have never had any trouble removing the pins using the light hammer & light punches








I think that the tight ass pins are due to Bushmaster drilling the pin holes way to high into the barrel steel. Colts only have half the diameter of the pin hole drilled into the barrel and the other half drilled into the FSB.

Link Posted: 3/3/2006 10:06:10 AM EDT
I've found that on Bushy FSB's one can never have too much power!!!!

I got a PUNCH - 1/2 inch really hard steel at an automotive tool shop

I use a 1 to 2 lb ball peen hammer

MOST IMPORTANT...put the barrel / FSB on something really solid. I tried all manner of work benches - none worked. I finally put the thing down on a concrete floor with some 2x4's underneath, held my breath and gave each pin one really good whack. I've never had one to fail to come out.

Now mind you this is probably the knuckle-dragger approach, but it will work. I also am of the opinion that Bushy drills the holes too far into the barrel and uses slightly oversize pins - but they go back in Ok and next time they come out real easy - go figure.
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 3:40:43 PM EDT
Just a thought on why Bushy FSB pins are hard to get out;
May Be it has something to do with bushy installing the FSB on the barrel before Parkerizing, Where Colt parks the barrel first!
Just a thought!
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 4:25:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By garr:
Just a thought on why Bushy FSB pins are hard to get out;
May Be it has something to do with bushy installing the FSB on the barrel before Parkerizing, Where Colt parks the barrel first!
Just a thought!



Well doing it that way probably doesn't help.
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 5:30:02 PM EDT
I just had the reverse problem. Pin would not go in on install. Brownells FSB had undersized hole so spec 5/64 roll pin would not go in. 1/16 slipped right thru. Just drilled it out with 5/64 bit and all is dandy. Don't know what those bushy tapered pins are made of, but a 1/16 bit in the drill press might ease right thru that pin. Big hammers are great, but power tools rule the day.
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 8:46:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By rlord:
I just had the reverse problem. Pin would not go in on install. Brownells FSB had undersized hole so spec 5/64 roll pin would not go in. 1/16 slipped right thru. Just drilled it out with 5/64 bit and all is dandy. Don't know what those bushy tapered pins are made of, but a 1/16 bit in the drill press might ease right thru that pin. Big hammers are great, but power tools rule the day.



This post is about the pins that hold the FSB on to the barrel, not the pin that holds the gas tube in the FSB.
Link Posted: 3/4/2006 5:34:10 PM EDT

Originally Posted By 556Cliff:
This post is about the pins that hold the FSB on to the barrel, not the pin that holds the gas tube in the FSB.



Oh, so it is. Well then, nevermind.
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