Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Posted: 2/9/2006 2:27:03 PM EDT
Would it be legal or practical to install a phantom on a 14.5" barrel at home without first registering a SBR? It seems like it would only require a drill, a roll pin and a little JB weld. Am I missing somthing either legal, or practical?
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 2:35:38 PM EDT
Most of the do-it-yourselfers that permanently attach their own flash suppressors use high-temp silver solder.

I don't know if blind pinning would be legal or not if JB Weld instead of a real weld was used to cover the pin.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 2:48:28 PM EDT
Does high temp silver solder reqire anything other than solder and a torch? Is it legal to have 14.5" barrel without an SBR as long as it is not installed?
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 2:48:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/9/2006 2:59:01 PM EDT by Minuteman419]
I had my 14.5 barrel shipped in and UPS left it on the front porch.

I grabbed it and went to the garage installed and aligned my Phantom, drilled, pinned and welded over the pin.

All this before the barrel was ever even close to the girls in the house.

It has to be permanent, JB does not count, nor does loctite.

BTW, I'm a stamp collector too.

Danny

ETA: You can also buy a 14.5 from a dealer in the EE that is already done up with the permanently attached FS reasonable.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 2:53:39 PM EDT
brownells has a silver solder paste. put some paste on the threads, screw it on and then hit it with the torch.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 3:04:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/9/2006 3:06:09 PM EDT by wildearp]
I would drill the FH first, and then install it, drill slightly deeper, pin, and weld. You could silver solder over the pin, too. Armalite used welding rod for the pin on one of my ban featured uppers.

Some folks would wet the bed over receiving a 14.5. You could just order one from ADCO, with the FH already pinned.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 3:17:04 PM EDT
Thanks for the replies. I want to prchase the barrel and install my own gas block,handguard, and flash hider without paying extra to ship it somewhere and then paying someone 30-50 bucks to do something that I could do myself in about 10 min.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 7:46:29 PM EDT
Don't ship a 14.5 to your house! The feds will kick in your door, rape you dog, beat you, and kill your wife!!

Wait.. I think I messed up the order in there somewhere..

bp
Link Posted: 2/10/2006 9:48:24 AM EDT
Link Posted: 2/18/2006 4:08:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/18/2006 4:10:49 PM EDT by Hk_Kommando]
Owning a 14.5 is legal. Assembling it onto a lower receiver makes it an SBR.

Remember, the LOWER is the firearm.

If you put it on a pistol lower, for example, it would be legal if I'm not mistaken.

It would be SMART to have a brake or FH professionally and permanently installed, which brings it up to 16", you can install it on a lower, no problem.
Link Posted: 2/18/2006 5:00:27 PM EDT
I drilled and tapped my flash hider for a set screw then drilled a little into the barrel. Then I tightened up the set screw and welded over it.
Link Posted: 2/18/2006 5:40:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By sp1shooter:
I drilled and tapped my flash hider for a set screw then drilled a little into the barrel. Then I tightened up the set screw and welded over it.



+1

I use a 6-32 x 1/8" set screw. Drill and tap, tighten set screw and then weld over the top of the set screw. MIG or TIG works. File smooth and touch up or re-park.

Here's what it looks like before welding.



I use my mini-mill to do the drilling and have a Miller SychroWave 180 TIG welder to do the welding.

Link Posted: 2/18/2006 6:00:46 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/18/2006 6:39:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/18/2006 6:39:41 PM EDT by machinehead]

Originally Posted By AR15barrels:

A home shop with a TIG welder, NICE!



same here miller dynasty dx pawn shop special $500 for a $3000 rig
Link Posted: 2/19/2006 6:42:51 AM EDT

Originally Posted By AR15barrels:

Originally Posted By comp1911:
I use my mini-mill to do the drilling and have a Miller SychroWave 180 TIG welder to do the welding.



A home shop with a TIG welder, NICE!



w00t! And a Miller 250x MIG

These are really tools for my other hobby of musclecar restoration - hot rodding but work good for this stuff too.

BUT I still need a lathe!
Link Posted: 2/19/2006 12:53:04 PM EDT
Funny this came up I just decided to do this, this weekend. I figured how hard can it be? Comp1911 I hear ya I'm into classic Mustangs and Camaros I have been building pro-tourers I have the same Miller in my shop. I'm finished except the welding what setting dis you use?
Thanks,.
Mike
Link Posted: 2/19/2006 2:19:49 PM EDT
I just use the Hgh temp silver solder from Brownells...
Link Posted: 2/19/2006 5:02:00 PM EDT

Originally Posted By mstennes:
Funny this came up I just decided to do this, this weekend. I figured how hard can it be? Comp1911 I hear ya I'm into classic Mustangs and Camaros I have been building pro-tourers I have the same Miller in my shop. I'm finished except the welding what setting dis you use?
Thanks,.
Mike



Camaros and Novas here.

3/32" tungsten, about 75 amps and a 1/16" filler rod
Link Posted: 2/19/2006 5:18:13 PM EDT

Originally Posted By comp1911:
I use a 6-32 x 1/8" set screw. Drill and tap, tighten set screw and then weld over the top of the set screw. MIG or TIG works. File smooth and touch up or re-park.




What rod would you use for MIG? What setting? I don't want to burn the thing up...

Fairly new to welding..................
Link Posted: 2/20/2006 4:13:23 AM EDT

Originally Posted By archer2:

Originally Posted By comp1911:
I use a 6-32 x 1/8" set screw. Drill and tap, tighten set screw and then weld over the top of the set screw. MIG or TIG works. File smooth and touch up or re-park.




What rod would you use for MIG? What setting? I don't want to burn the thing up...

Fairly new to welding..................



A standard ER70S is fine.
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 9:54:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/23/2006 10:05:54 AM EDT by pcf]
Silver solder is easiest way, you'll need wire brush, degreaser, silver solder paste, section of a metal cleaning rod and a torch. You can find "extra esay" or "easy" paste silver solder at most refrigeration repair or welding supply places for about $8 per 1/2 ounce versus the $30 brownells charges for an ounce.

If your working in a well ventilated place the "extra easy" is fine, contains cadmium so it's not suitable for indoor use.

Surface prep is the key to success.

Clean the threads off with the wire brush, soap and hot water. Dry and degrease. You can further prep with sand paper, but hsouldn't be necessary.
Apply silver solder to the threads on the barrel (file a small groove across the threads to hold the solder, 1/8 wide, 3/8" long, just a smidge below the threads)
Screw on and time flash hider.
Heat the base of the flash where the groove with solder is to dark red, when/if the solder starts to flow out, it's time to stop.

If any solder has flowed (is that a word) out at the muzzle end knock it off with the cleaning rod.
Use a damp rag to wipe flux off of the barrel before it cools completly.

If you did it right the flash hider wont come off, check before installing on rifle.
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 10:27:57 AM EDT
tagged
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 12:58:24 PM EDT

Originally Posted By M4Madness:
Most of the do-it-yourselfers that permanently attach their own flash suppressors use high-temp silver solder.

I don't know if blind pinning would be legal or not if JB Weld instead of a real weld was used to cover the pin.



JB weld would be a chemical process and would not be legal in the eyes of the ATF - as I understand the process as it stands now.

It has to be welded - metal fused to metal using an electrical arc.
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 1:04:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By pcf:
Silver solder is easiest way, you'll need wire brush, degreaser, silver solder paste, section of a metal cleaning rod and a torch. You can find "extra esay" or "easy" paste silver solder at most refrigeration repair or welding supply places for about $8 per 1/2 ounce versus the $30 brownells charges for an ounce.

If your working in a well ventilated place the "extra easy" is fine, contains cadmium so it's not suitable for indoor use.

Surface prep is the key to success.

Clean the threads off with the wire brush, soap and hot water. Dry and degrease. You can further prep with sand paper, but hsouldn't be necessary.
Apply silver solder to the threads on the barrel (file a small groove across the threads to hold the solder, 1/8 wide, 3/8" long, just a smidge below the threads)
Screw on and time flash hider.
Heat the base of the flash where the groove with solder is to dark red, when/if the solder starts to flow out, it's time to stop.

If any solder has flowed (is that a word) out at the muzzle end knock it off with the cleaning rod.
Use a damp rag to wipe flux off of the barrel before it cools completly.

If you did it right the flash hider wont come off, check before installing on rifle.



What kind of torch do you use? Is Mapp gas enough or do you need to go to oxy/acy?
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 1:25:19 PM EDT

Originally Posted By comp1911:
What kind of torch do you use? Is Mapp gas enough or do you need to go to oxy/acy?



MAPP, propane, or butane will all work fine. Silver solder melt at 1100-1300F and flows in another 100F after it melts. I prefer a MAPP torch, it's easy to control the heat, and the flame. If you do it right there should be minimal discoloration of the finish on the barrel. You need to melt the solder not cook the flash hider. If you're handy with a torch (I'm not) using acetylene wouldn't be a problem.
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 2:07:23 PM EDT

Originally Posted By pcf:

Originally Posted By comp1911:
What kind of torch do you use? Is Mapp gas enough or do you need to go to oxy/acy?



MAPP, propane, or butane will all work fine. Silver solder melt at 1100-1300F and flows in another 100F after it melts. I prefer a MAPP torch, it's easy to control the heat, and the flame. If you do it right there should be minimal discoloration of the finish on the barrel. You need to melt the solder not cook the flash hider. If you're handy with a torch (I'm not) using acetylene wouldn't be a problem.



Sounds good. I have both. I used a lot of MAPP when I plumbed my house.
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 2:38:03 PM EDT
Top Top