Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Posted: 2/7/2006 11:58:51 AM EDT
I am building my first AR this week. The build consists of a RRA lower and midlength/flatop upper w/ Tango down grip and ARMS #40L rear sight. While I like the motto KISS, the colors of my components don't come close to matching. I am wondering where to find the Colt "grey" and if anyone knows a procedure to follow when it comes to painting the components.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 12:00:03 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 12:02:20 PM EDT
norrell's moly resin offers a colt gray color that matches very well.

stickman's refinishing thread.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 1:03:32 PM EDT
use a good airbrush...unless you want a spatter effect
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 1:17:50 PM EDT
i used the $30 badger 350 and it worked flawlessly
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 1:58:17 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:21:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/7/2006 3:21:58 PM EDT by Stickman]
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 5:27:49 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:

Originally Posted By gaspain:
use a good airbrush...unless you want a spatter effect




I use a cheap testors airbrush, and have done a weapon or two without any trouble.



+1, A testors works fine for me.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 8:43:47 PM EDT
Some of us guys that have no scroupuls, like to use Krylon and just hose the weapon down every year or so.

If you're not going for a show room finish just degrease it and use Krylon.

Someone will be by soon to tell you how stupid Kylon is and how you shouldn't ruin your rifle with it.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 5:54:23 AM EDT
thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it. Kill Again, do you think a high temp engine paint would do just as well as Krylon, or possibly better. I am a little anal about cleaning(thank you USMC) and think the abuse I would put my AR through would possibly wear down the Krylon. I have read on engine paint cans that they are suppossedly solvent resistant. Just a thought. I would love to shell out a few extra dollars for the airbrush methods but the significant other is starting to wonder why my children haven't been eating luch at school (just kidding). I still have to find the money to someday equip my rifle with the ARMS SIR bi-level midlength.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 10:05:00 AM EDT

Originally Posted By USMCM4:
I am building my first AR this week. The build consists of a RRA lower and midlength/flatop upper w/ Tango down grip and ARMS #40L rear sight. While I like the motto KISS, the colors of my components don't come close to matching. I am wondering where to find the Colt "grey" and if anyone knows a procedure to follow when it comes to painting the components.



Why use a $4.00 can of Krylon on a $600.00 to 1500.00 dallor AR... But some people cry about shooting wolf?
Duracoat runs like $16.95 for a 4oz's and like 15.00 bucks for a airbrush...

Im, Me I can hook you up with duracoat (Sorry enforcer22) a Marine to a Marine.

Semper Fi
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 11:13:18 AM EDT
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 1:04:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:
Norrells is easier to apply, more durable, and cost less. However, you do need to cure it in an oven. If solvent resistance is a concern, I would use Norrells. If you are looking for more colors, or an item which can't be heated (like an optic), DC becomes a better choice.





Stickman all i n all you are right Norrells is CHEAPER... Both are airbrushed! Both have to preped correcty to work. And as for price $23.00 for 8oz or $16.95 for 4 oz. It's your call... Heat is only needed for Durabake, but Duracoat needs time to cure as for any spray on.

But the bottom line is I will shoot the hell out of wolf . And never use a 4 or 5 dallor can of krylon.................................
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 5:51:59 PM EDT
Ive personally used both the "military krylon" stuff and the GunKote on both my AK/AR and my handguns.

The GunKote stuff is awesome for corrosion if you have something that might rust (magazines..etc) but as far as wear goes.. blah.. it'll look great when you first apply it but as soon as it wears..it gets nasty...

And no matter how many coats ive applied, there's no magic tough stuff.. although prepping the surface is absolutely key in achieving a superior adhesion, it's still gonna wear through.. ive 1) degreased 2) sandblasted 3) degreased 4) parkerized 5) painted 6)baked my guns...they look awesome when they're freshly done.. but they still scratch and chip..

also, it was a total bi**ch to clean off the gunkote after i baked it... i had to beadblast it away..

Personally, I like krylon cause it's cheap, easy to clean and easy to reapply... but i love my Iwata airbrush.. so i prefer to get the stuff by the bottle and apply the stuff in a very precise manner.. krylon is fine..but theres always a ton of overspray..

I did my bushmaster with some leftover black gunkote..and it looked great...i didnt bake it cause i wanted to remove it later..just remember that its anodized and not 'parked'.. i sprayed both the upper and lower and you coudlnt tell that it had been sprayed... admittedly, the color wasnt off that much but my lower looked tons better after i did it.. same thing for my AK.. i sprayed it and it still looked like it was parkerized.. except it looked new again..

anotehr thing to consider is if you ever want to remove the finish.. gunkote/duracoat is gonna be a nightmare if you bake it.. itll typically loses its solvency to things like acetone/paint thinner/MEK after the heat treatment.. krylon wipes off fairly readily with the right cleaner..

oh, make sure for safety, WEAR AN APPROVED ORGANIC MASK IF YOU SPRAY.. theres enough things out there that are gonna give you brain cancer...dont mess with gunkote/duracoat if you're not gonna invest in an approved mask.. its not that expensive and its value goes way beyond the money you spend now..

good luck
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 6:04:35 PM EDT
btw, you dont have to cure Dura coat in an oven. But I recommend doing so, you have a much tougher finish if you do so.
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 5:07:22 AM EDT
tag
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 10:17:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By freeflow:

Originally Posted By USMCM4:
I am building my first AR this week. The build consists of a RRA lower and midlength/flatop upper w/ Tango down grip and ARMS #40L rear sight. While I like the motto KISS, the colors of my components don't come close to matching. I am wondering where to find the Colt "grey" and if anyone knows a procedure to follow when it comes to painting the components.



Why use a $4.00 can of Krylon on a $600.00 to 1500.00 dallor AR... But some people cry about shooting wolf?
Duracoat runs like $16.95 for a 4oz's and like 15.00 bucks for a airbrush...

Im, Me I can hook you up with duracoat (Sorry enforcer22) a Marine to a Marine.

Semper Fi



I'd love to see quality and abuse tests of the different color apps... krylon, duracoat, shop done powder coating, and a quality garage job with high temp engine or BBQ paint.
I sprayed my cheap synthetic stock with high temp BBQ paint and it looked VERY NICE. I'm sort of a spray can artist though... :)
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 11:29:33 AM EDT
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 3:26:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/9/2006 3:31:12 PM EDT by enforcer22]
Link Posted: 2/9/2006 9:28:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By USMCM4:
thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it. Kill Again, do you think a high temp engine paint would do just as well as Krylon, or possibly better. I am a little anal about cleaning(thank you USMC) and think the abuse I would put my AR through would possibly wear down the Krylon. I have read on engine paint cans that they are suppossedly solvent resistant. Just a thought. I would love to shell out a few extra dollars for the airbrush methods but the significant other is starting to wonder why my children haven't been eating luch at school (just kidding). I still have to find the money to someday equip my rifle with the ARMS SIR bi-level midlength.



I've heard of people using engine paint but I have no personal experience with it myself. It has been done, how it holds up is a mystery to me.

My AR has Krylon on it and I've never had an issue with solvent's taking the paint off. I've never cleaned the outside of my weapon either, so contact with Krylon to CLP and Carb Cleaner has be limited.

Krylon will get worn off. It isn't the prettiest finish a person could do. I drag my rifle in the dirt and across concrete from time to time. I expect it to wear.

$1 for a can. Hose it down when the color wears too much and don't worry about scratching it, because you can always afford to put more on it.

You should check out Stickman's website, he has done beautiful refinishing jobs with Norrell's Moly Resin.

Perhaps start a thread asking to see people's Duracoat jobs, Krylon and Norrells finishes.

I know when I see nice quality finishes it makes me want to strip the Krylon off and make my weapon purdy.
Link Posted: 2/10/2006 6:08:01 AM EDT
The idea of asking to see member’s ar paint jobs would be a good idea...

When painting your ar goes bad!
Link Posted: 2/10/2006 6:40:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/10/2006 6:44:40 AM EDT by freeflow]
enforcer22 I also do custom finishing but more for the military side .
Top Top