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Posted: 2/6/2006 4:24:10 PM EDT
Anyone tried this? Curious how the finish would hold up.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 6:33:39 AM EDT
Wow...I must ask the dumbest fuckin questions in the world.

I see people ask about their boogers and get 200 replies in one day.

I've asked two about build issues and can't get a "go screw yourself" reply
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 6:52:06 AM EDT
I had to premattach a YHM-28 flash suppressor to a 14.5" bm hbar, I used the molyresin socom black
and it has held up well I see no signs of premature ware on the finish, although I only have 500rds
through the FS, but it seem to work for me.
I hope this helps
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 6:53:43 AM EDT
Thanks for the info!!! That's what I was hoping to hear
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 6:58:41 AM EDT
Holds up fine for me.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:00:47 AM EDT
I've probably put a couple thousand through my old A2 flash hider before upgrading to a phantom. It held up fine, no flaking, excess wear, etc. Norrell's works good on barrels too. MJD
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:02:52 AM EDT

Originally Posted By phylodog:

I've asked two about build issues and can't get a "go screw yourself" reply



Well, I won't go that far but....

Why the HELL do you want to refinish a flash hider?
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:10:37 AM EDT

I just reblue mine when the park wears off.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:17:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/7/2006 7:19:05 AM EDT by tarfu64]

Why the HELL do you want to refinish a flash hider?




I'll bite. As in an earlier post, he may need to drill/pin/weld a FS to a short bbl. to make it legal length. I've had to do it just because of finish wear on an earlier build, but the whole barrel needed to be refinished.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:26:09 AM EDT
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:29:26 AM EDT
I was thinking of finishing it in tan......Purefly for looks

I know....I know....it's a tool, who cares what it looks like. I have a workhorse M4gery that gets nothing in the way of color, I'm building this one for fun. Trying to kick around ideas that I haven't seen before, that's all.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:30:14 AM EDT
By the way, thanks for the replies guys. I was beginning to think I was blackballed around here for some reason.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 7:50:34 AM EDT
Move along...nothing to see here...
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 8:01:34 AM EDT

Originally Posted By phylodog:
I was thinking of finishing it in tan......Purefly for looks

I know....I know....it's a tool, who cares what it looks like. I have a workhorse M4gery that gets nothing in the way of color, I'm building this one for fun. Trying to kick around ideas that I haven't seen before, that's all.



In tan? It'll look like hell after one trip to the range won't it? The carbon on the flash hider is hard as hell too!
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 9:34:10 AM EDT
It might. That's why I was asking. I would think that if the finish will withstand the abuse from the muzzle, the carbon deposits wouldn't be too tough to get off considering the lubrication properties of the finish but I could very easily be wrong (wouldn't be the first time). That's why I was curious if anyone had tried it before.

I'm not sure I'm going to try it but if I do and it doesn't work, new flash supressors are pretty cheap.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 10:16:04 AM EDT
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 10:32:02 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:
It works fine, I do it all the time.



How do you prep it if it is parked metal with the parkerizing about 30% worn off?
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 11:00:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By _DR:

Originally Posted By Stickman:
It works fine, I do it all the time.



How do you prep it if it is parked metal with the parkerizing about 30% worn off?



I'd guess a quick bead blasting would do the trick.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:41:14 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:58:03 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:

Originally Posted By markm:

I'd guess a quick bead blasting would do the trick.




No, no, no. Bead blasting is the wrong action. Sand blasting, NOT bead blasting. Bead blasting creates a slick surface that the Norrells will not adhere to as well.



I don't have a sand blaster at my disposal.

I suppose a thorough degreasing and fine steel wool would not yield good results?
I guess that would polish too.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 4:05:25 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 10:56:32 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:

Originally Posted By markm:

I'd guess a quick bead blasting would do the trick.




No, no, no. Bead blasting is the wrong action. Sand blasting, NOT bead blasting. Bead blasting creates a slick surface that the Norrells will not adhere to as well.



What kind of media do you use to blast with and at what PSI?

I saw a guy ruin a 70 series Colt with a sandblaster. He thought he would save some money in preping before we did the blue.

The holes and rails were blasted way out spec.

Could you be more specific on the media and pressure?
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 3:43:33 AM EDT
Norell's recommends 90 grit aluminum oxide media. I use it at around 45-50 psi (for steel) and it doesn't beat up the steel too bad.
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 4:18:21 AM EDT

Originally Posted By lt557:
I saw a guy ruin a 70 series Colt with a sandblaster. He thought he would save some money in preping before we did the blue.

The holes and rails were blasted way out spec.



Oh Snap!
Link Posted: 2/8/2006 11:16:27 AM EDT
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