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Posted: 1/4/2006 5:31:48 PM EDT
I'm wondering if you can just drill a hole in the break and hammer a steel dowell through the brake into a small hole in the threads, then cover up with some sort of finish? Thanks!
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 5:36:51 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MouseBoy:
I'm wondering if you can just drill a hole in the break and hammer a steel dowell through the brake into a small hole in the threads, then cover up with some sort of finish? Thanks!



no expert on the law but I believe it has to be welded to the barrel.

Link Posted: 1/4/2006 6:54:00 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MouseBoy:
I'm wondering if you can just drill a hole in the break and hammer a steel dowell through the brake into a small hole in the threads, then cover up with some sort of finish? Thanks!



As long as the finish is melted metal ya that will work.
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 7:42:25 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dace:

Originally Posted By MouseBoy:
I'm wondering if you can just drill a hole in the break and hammer a steel dowell through the brake into a small hole in the threads, then cover up with some sort of finish? Thanks!



As long as the finish is melted metal ya that will work.



So, leave a little recess and fill it up with? Ive tried silver soder, does not bond to steel.
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 7:48:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MouseBoy:

Originally Posted By Dace:

Originally Posted By MouseBoy:
I'm wondering if you can just drill a hole in the break and hammer a steel dowell through the brake into a small hole in the threads, then cover up with some sort of finish? Thanks!



As long as the finish is melted metal ya that will work.



So, leave a little recess and fill it up with? Ive tried silver soder, does not bond to steel.



It called a blind pin. You drill a hole through the flashider/brake and into the threads but not all the way through the barrel. Then you drop a metal pin into it and weld the top in covering it up. You have to weld it.

Or weld the brake directly to the barrel.

No other way is acceptable to the ATF. Solder does not work.
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 9:54:37 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dace:
No other way is acceptable to the ATF. Solder does not work.



1100 degree silver solder or blind pined are both ATF approved methods
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 10:44:36 PM EDT

Originally Posted By stiles:

Originally Posted By Dace:
No other way is acceptable to the ATF. Solder does not work.



1100 degree silver solder or blind pined are both ATF approved methods



Thats what I thought,

blind pin - any directions?
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 4:55:00 AM EDT

Originally Posted By MouseBoy:

Originally Posted By stiles:

Originally Posted By Dace:
No other way is acceptable to the ATF. Solder does not work.



1100 degree silver solder or blind pined are both ATF approved methods



Thats what I thought,

blind pin - any directions?



See my post above or do a search.
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 5:14:13 AM EDT

Originally Posted By MouseBoy:


blind pin - any directions?



ADCO
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 8:22:20 AM EDT


Originally Posted By MouseBoy:


blind pin - any directions?




I would bore a hole through the muzzle device' threaded area, and into the threaded portion of the barrel, but not all the way through the barrel. I would install a steel pin into the holes to effectively lock the device to the barrel, and weld (TIG prefered) over the top of the pin (blending both material as one, and touch up to look nice.

Might try to find somebody to simply TIG the device and barrel together, 4 spots, 3 or 4 small beads, something to show intent to make permanent. Laser weld might look really cool.
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 3:16:51 AM EDT

Welded or soldered to the barrel. A friend purchased a very short barrel and then had it turned down and a flash hider welded to it to bring the barrel length to minimum. This was done custom by Model 1 Sales and it's very light and shoots very well. After a lengthy google search I would not possess a short barrel along with all the other parts to make an SBR, get someone with all the right licenses to weld it on for you.

Want to be disgusted: Read http://www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs.cmu.edu/user/wbardwel/public/nfalist/
hThis case concerns whether an unassembled set of parts to make a rifle out of can be a short barreled rifle under the NFA, if the parts have never been assembled into a rifle. Basically the issue is whether the definition covers it. Although the law doesn't say that, the court decides it does. ATF has long argued, and been bolstered by cases such as this, that an NFA weapon, that is not otherwise defined as parts of such a weapon, is still one if someone possesses all the parts to assemble it. They apply the same logic to semi-auto "assault" weapons, and large capacity magazines. This holding was not altered by the supreme court case in Thompson/Center, which was similar to this. In that case the court agreed with this case, but distinguished the situation with T/C in that the parts had dual use, either for a legal gun(s), or for a SBR. In this case the folks were selling the AR kits with short barrels and a flash hider you were supposed to silver solder onto the end, or otherwise permanently attach. Either that or register the thing as a SBR before you put it together. Since the flash hider wasn't permenetly attached they didn't count it toward the overall length of the barrel, and the kit could only turn into a SBR, unless you bought parts of your own into the equation.


Originally Posted By MouseBoy:
I'm wondering if you can just drill a hole in the break and hammer a steel dowell through the brake into a small hole in the threads, then cover up with some sort of finish? Thanks!

Link Posted: 1/7/2006 11:10:25 AM EDT
Silver solder will permanently bond a FH to a barrel AS LONG AS both the internal threads of the FH AND the external threads of the barrel are bare metal, meaning the parkerizing has been completely removed. Prep is often times over half of the work to get a proper joint.
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