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Posted: 12/31/2005 5:22:52 AM EDT
Does anyone have experience with Lacquer-Sticks or painting in the numbers on an AK sight? I recently repainted my AK so I painted the sight to match. Now I need to paint the numbers. I have been trying to use a Lacquer-Stik, but because the surface is porus it is making the whole surface colored. When I try to remove it from the surface using miniral oil like it says it also comes of the numbers. Ideas? Suggestions? (I'm open for other ways to paint the numbers).
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 6:11:56 AM EDT
I use a white lacquer stick on my firearms. I bought it from Brownells. I mostly highlight the reciever rear and sight drums on my Garands, M1A's, and AR-15s.

First, I rub the stick on a piece of cardboard to get down to fresh lacquer. Wipe of the edges of the stick to remove crumbs.. Then heavily apply it so that it completely fills the marking. I wipe off with my fingers and palm, only. Clean your hand with soap and water, dry, and rewipe until the surrounding area is clean. On phospated surfaces, the surface may still have a bit of a white appearance, and you will not be able to remove any more with your hand. For me, mostly, this is OK. Once dry (after 24 hours or so), I apply whatever oil I am using at the time....NOT Kroil or anything else that may have a solvent in it.

If I want to remove all the white residue, I use a cue-tip and mineral spirits or spray carb cleaner, and delicately remove it from around the stamping/engraving. I only use a DAMP cue-tip, not enough to make a run or seep into the stamping/engraving.

I tried cleaning the area like you, and found that using ANY type of cloth or solvent removes the lacquer.
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 7:23:35 AM EDT
i use paint pens
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 10:23:17 AM EDT

Originally Posted By AtlantaFireman:
I use a white lacquer stick on my firearms. I bought it from Brownells. I mostly highlight the reciever rear and sight drums on my Garands, M1A's, and AR-15s.

First, I rub the stick on a piece of cardboard to get down to fresh lacquer. Wipe of the edges of the stick to remove crumbs.. Then heavily apply it so that it completely fills the marking. I wipe off with my fingers and palm, only. Clean your hand with soap and water, dry, and rewipe until the surrounding area is clean. On phospated surfaces, the surface may still have a bit of a white appearance, and you will not be able to remove any more with your hand. For me, mostly, this is OK. Once dry (after 24 hours or so), I apply whatever oil I am using at the time....NOT Kroil or anything else that may have a solvent in it.

If I want to remove all the white residue, I use a cue-tip and mineral spirits or spray carb cleaner, and delicately remove it from around the stamping/engraving. I only use a DAMP cue-tip, not enough to make a run or seep into the stamping/engraving.

I tried cleaning the area like you, and found that using ANY type of cloth or solvent removes the lacquer.



I'll give that a try.
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 10:33:26 AM EDT
I forgot to add that before I got good at it, it took me several attempts: lots of trial and error....mostly from using cloth or solvents on my hands.

Sometimes, you have to press it into the markings.

With a bit of trial and error, you'll get good with it. A 79 year old man I know, retired Army, used to build AMU and sniper M14s, does a beautiful job, very similarly to the way I described. I just added the part about washing my hands.

I hope this works well for you.
Link Posted: 12/31/2005 10:43:29 AM EDT
I also used the white and red laquer sticks from Brownells and they work nice.
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