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Posted: 12/14/2003 7:48:42 PM EDT
I'm going to remove an AR FS and install a vortex on one of my uppers.
Can someone run me thru this?

What do I need? I have an Armorer's wrench.I believe I need a new crush washer?

What precautions to make sure I don't damage barrel or alignment?

Thanks
Link Posted: 12/15/2003 2:05:35 AM EDT
there are 2 types of vortex fs. which vortex do u have ? if u have the vortex G6 fh, u dont need a crush washers or lock washers . just install it . max. torqeu is 10ft.lbs
Link Posted: 12/15/2003 2:08:51 AM EDT
No need for a washer, just screw it on. Use a butter knife through the tines. Don't worry about damaging anything. It's not delicate.
Link Posted: 12/15/2003 4:05:13 AM EDT
What the other guys said. Plus, the G6 will self tighten when firing the weapon.
Link Posted: 12/15/2003 3:56:49 PM EDT
Sounds good to me. Thanks guys. Will the old A2 FS come off as easy? Haven't done so before and I don't want to damage anything. Do I need to put my upper in a vice block, etc?
Link Posted: 12/15/2003 11:31:47 PM EDT
Put a mag in it and hold it tight between your knees.
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 2:17:47 AM EDT
There are at least 3 types, and at least one of my older ones uses a crush washer so I could align the tines in the orientation desired.
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 2:56:03 AM EDT
Mine is the new kind, and it was permanently attached with the washer, but there was no point to that. Its kind of ugly.
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 3:22:44 AM EDT
AK_Mike, the new model G6 does not require any washers and you don't have to align the tines in any particular way. The instructions say to just screw it on and tighten to no more than 10 lbs.
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 1:41:49 PM EDT
Originally Posted By BookHound: AK_Mike, the new model G6 does not require any washers and you don't have to align the tines in any particular way. The instructions say to just screw it on and tighten to no more than 10 lbs.
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Yes Bookhound, I am already aware of that. The two that I have are the two that preceeded the G6, which will be my next BTW. You don't have to orientate the tines ever (in any of the models), but some like myself do so for asthetic reasons - I like them orientated in a certain way, no need, just personal whim.
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 3:15:16 PM EDT
AK_Mike, dumb question, but what's the difference between using a peel washer and a cruch washer and how do you use both types to orient the FS? Also, have you had good performance from your Vortex flash suppressors?
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 4:16:04 PM EDT
Absolutely not a dumb question... The crush washer flexes shape so it gives you variable depth. The peel washer is a set of really thing shim rings that you add or remove until you get the fit/depth you want. The crush washer is easier cause you just crank on the F/H until it's orientated the way you want after you contact the crush washer and have sufficient torque resistance. It's kind of like a rubber o-ring that you can mash, except it's metal and flexes in shape. With the Vortex, I just torque it on against the crush washer until there is contact and some torque, say 10 lbs +/- 3, then keep twisting until the flash hider is lined up the way you like. It's kind of like mounting a barrel - torquing on the barrel nut until 30 lbs or so, then turning until the next hole lines up. Granted, who really cares if from the front the tine ends form a + or a x. Perhaps from the side you want the base of the slots to algn horizontally. Makes no functional difference with the Vortex, but with other types, you can line it up so the slots down point down and kick up dust. Performance - simple, the Vortex is the absolute best flash hider made, there is no flash at all, at worst there may be a tiny speck of dim glow inside of it but usually not. Only a silencer/suppressor would be as good. The only draw back is that it can kick up dust if you go prone, unlike say, an A2 or a 4 slot Phantom (probably second best) that you have aligned so that none of the slots point down. There was a problem with some of the earliest Vortex units though and it had to due with the way the slots were cut (not the heat treating myth), something of a spiral instead of a straight angle. The G5's and latest G6's (as well as the properly cut previous units) have no faults. The G6 is also cut for a blank firing adaptor and/or suppressor mount.
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 4:56:47 PM EDT
Thanks for the info, Mike. I appreciate your help. Sounds like I picked a good FS. [:)]
Link Posted: 12/16/2003 5:44:52 PM EDT
Originally Posted By drjarhead: Sounds good to me. Thanks guys. Will the old A2 FS come off as easy? Haven't done so before and I don't want to damage anything. Do I need to put my upper in a vice block, etc?
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If it's a Colt, they used loctite on some of their models to secure the FH and it requires heat to get them off. Good luck.
Link Posted: 12/17/2003 12:27:56 AM EDT
One of the cool aspects about the Vortex is that you don't need much torque on it as it self tightens due to the gas action against the tines. However, you can order models in both LH and RH threading I am told.
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