I am in the process of building my first AR and I got a problem

The A2 buttstock i got is from Rock River Arms and it is very grey and porus. If you touch it with any type of moisture it leaves print. I have started sanding with 0000 Steel wool and it seems to make it better but its still really grey and still kind of leaves a print.

What can i do about this or which comapny can i order a stock from that will be a nice smooth and sealed BLACK stock?

any help please I dont want to order from somewhere else and end up with the same thing

It is made that way so it does not relect light.

Think of it as bring "tactical"!

Smooth = Reflection

This isnt a tactical rifle though. Its benchrest only rifle with shiny parts already!

I have a A1 stock that is all black and it isnt real shiny. Besides it shouldnt soak up moisture like it does and leave fingerprints on it.

Before you attack the stock with anything, see if this will give you the look you're after...

Apply a very liberal amount of CLP to the stock and buff it with black t-shirt.  Let it dry, put some CLP on a black t-shirt and buff it again.  The stock should be a nice uniform deep black when you're done...

Whats CLP?

and i have already attacked the stock with 0000 Wool. that seemes to work but its still needing abit more something

Balck T-shirt i got

[img]http://www.wholesalehunter.com/images/all/breapicCLP4.jpg[/img]

Break-Free is a single lubricant that can clean, lubricate, and preserve your weapon. This removes firing residues, carbon deposits and other contaminants. CLP is a scientifically formulated blend of more that 15 chemicals including highly refined synthetic oils, polyetrafluoroethylene, solvents, rust inhibitors and extreme pressure additives. It is nothing less than a complete firearms maintenance system in a single can or bottle. It eliminates the need for separate applications of power solvents, bore cleaners, gun oils and greases.

All A2 stocks are like that.

CLP stands for Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative, and is the standard GIcompound for cleaning and maintainance of M16s. You canb ordinarilly find it at gun shows, army surplus stores (and mail order houses), and often in gun shops.

That reminds me, the quart bottle I bought 10 years ago is almost empty. Better get some more[:D]

Sorry about that Ramjet!... I've been addicted to AR's for so many years I figure everyone knows what the heck I'm talking about...  [;)]

PVFD304 gave you the skinny... USGI magazines, quality ammunition, and BreakFree CLP are the most important things you can get for your AR.

Since you're into your first AR, here are a couple of .pdf files that will really help you out... Right click the links and select 'save target as' to download them to your computer and read at your leisure...

[url]www.ar15.com/content/books/TM9-1005-319-10.pdf[/url]

[url]www.ar15.com/content/books/TM9-1005-319-23.pdf[/url]

Thanks for the PDFs but my rifle isnt anything like a standard duty rifle. I am building this one fromn the ground up as a benchrest/varmint rifle. with a special type of receiver and a Custom JPE 24" upper. About the only thing that is normal on it is going to be some of the lower parts and some A2 Buttstock parts. the rest is custom. This not however the first AR i have owned, I am currently selling a A1 preban on gunbroker right now. which should pay for my upper.

I appriciate all the responses back on this question though. I did end solving my problem with a bunch of elbow grease with 0000 steel wool and got the finish i wanted. "Shiny" is ok for this rifle.

Get some Tetra oil and rub it in, it will become dark and smooth. if you want the glassy hard black finish, you have to get an A1 stock.

You can also spray it with Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II, which comes in different colors.  I use the matte black and when all is done, a rub down with CLP will make it get a nice sheen to it.  I use this on stocks and mags, as well as gun barrels and it is very durable when cured and on stocks is very scratch resistent.  You might want to go with gloss black if shiney is what you want, but I have not used that color.  If the finish is too porus, after the first coats are dry you can 4/0 steel wool it down to smooth and spray again.  I usually put on three coats for the first application (extra coats must be done within 15 minutes, after that, it must cure completely before adding additonal coats) and let those cure completely (one week) and then if an area needs smoothing out, such as a pitted area on metal or a scratch in the stock, I sand it down and the paint from the first coats will fill the void, then respray and the void is hidden completely and will leave a very smooth surface.  

I am going to wait until i get the upper to see how much of a different black the stock is then i will go from there. I thought of Aluma-hydeII I used that to refinish one of my shotguns and it turned out nice.

 My Bushy stock looked like heck too, blotchy and spotty, until I used Break-Free clp on it. Now it looks great, and does not mark like it did when dry. It also does not shine, just looks nice. Also, after wiping off the CLP, it does not feel slippery or anything bad like that. The plastic seems to absorb the CLP. Forgot all about it until I read this post.

Nuts{WoC}