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Posted: 10/24/2003 9:32:05 AM EDT
Ok, after a 0% or 80% AR-15 is finished, how do I get it finished? Does anyone recommend Brownell's TEFLON/MOLY OVEN CURE?

What other kinds and brands of do-it-yourself finishing coats do you recommend?

Has anyone shipped their drilled/finished receiver to someone else to have it professionally coated and finished? What are the legal implications for that since it's now a completed firearm?
Link Posted: 10/24/2003 9:54:52 AM EDT
Bead blast, anodize, then "paint" and bake
Link Posted: 10/24/2003 1:33:31 PM EDT
Originally Posted By shooterx10: Does anyone recommend Brownell's TEFLON/MOLY OVEN CURE?
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I've done upper and lower receivers, receiver extensions, and lots of other parts with this finishing process.
Link Posted: 10/25/2003 2:36:42 AM EDT
Originally Posted By notack:
Originally Posted By shooterx10: Does anyone recommend Brownell's TEFLON/MOLY OVEN CURE?
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I've done upper and lower receivers, receiver extensions, and lots of other parts with this finishing process.
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notack - Does that Moly stuff hold up to the harsher cleaning solvents??? Like bore cleaner???
Link Posted: 11/2/2003 1:48:23 PM EDT
Anodize! It is easier than you think. All you need is a battery charger, some battery acid and some dye. http://www.ray-vin.com/casting/lower.shtml http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html Regards, Ray
Link Posted: 11/2/2003 2:13:42 PM EDT
Originally Posted By ray-vin: Anodize! It is easier than you think. All you need is a battery charger, some battery acid and some dye.
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Speaking for myself, I had discounted anodizing because of the non-coloring process described at dropdbombnow's site...
Link Posted: 11/3/2003 4:19:48 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Guns_N_Shizzle: Bead blast, anodize, then "paint" and bake
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Roger that. I tried dying mine black after anodizing. The dye didn't set, for whatever reason. I used flat black lacquer applied in multiple coats at 200-250 degrees F.
Link Posted: 11/3/2003 4:40:14 AM EDT
For maximum wear resistance, nothing beats annodizing. It coats the entire surface of the aluminum with aluminum oxide. This is the stuff that sand paper is made of, very hard. The alloy used in the cast parts will annodize, but will not take the dye. So, just seal the annodizing in boiling water as per instructions, then put one of the bake on coatings and you are done. John Norrells MolyCote is what I am used to using, and it works great. It is solvent proof, I tested every solvent I could find. An advantage of the spray and bake finishes is very easy touch-up, something you can not do with a dyed-annodized finish. If you really use your weapon, it will get scratches and dings. The forged and billet cut lowers will take the dye after annodizing. Were I to build one of those, I would still use the spray and bake coating as a final finish for the corrosion resistance and ease in refinishing. BTW, John Norrells instructions for the removal of his coatings list sand blasting as the only way to remove them, no solvent will do it.
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