What suggestions does everyone have on type of paint to use for FF handguards?

I have a RRA varmint model rifle and the paint is chipping really bad on the handguards.  I'm in the process of removing all the old paint.

What type of paint is best for repainting?  I'm looking for something that will be alittle more scratch resistant.

Thanks,

Aluma-Hyde II or Gun-Kote from Brownells.  Excellent finish.

Agree with the above, I used the Alumahyde II
but remember the most important step
1.PREP
2.PREP
3.PREP

Check out John Norell's site.  I have used it on aluminum and it is great and last a long time.  

The most important thing is prep.

good Luck

What should I do to prep?  Primer?  Wash the FF in a degreaser?

Who is John Norell and what is the URL for his website?

I use GunKote.  The first time I used a spray can from Brownells, but then I bought directly from [url=http://www.kgcoatings.com]KG Coatings[/url] and used a cheap airbrush setup.

For prep, I clean the handguards thoroughly with acetone, then heat them until they are warm to the touch (above room temperature, but not painful to touch).  I do this by turning on the oven and letting them sit on top.  Then I give them a couple of coats, letting them dry (5 minutes) between.  Then into the oven to bake.  My results have been [b]very[/b] good on aluminum.  The finish is smooth and durable.

Could you also use the KG coating on the butt stock?  Would it hold up?

I wondered that, myself.  My cans from KG say that it can be applied to "ferrous and non ferrous metals, and some plastics".  My biggest concern would be baking the stock at 325 degrees.

Paint? Do you mean anodyzing?

The black anodyzing adds a lot of strength to the handguard. If you take a file to anodyzed aluminum, you can easily feel how much harder the black layer is.

You don't want to sand the anodyzing off before refinishing. That's stronger stuff than aluminum - don't waste it.

You got some excellent suggestions. Sounds like you use you gun hard, which is how it should be.

If you want to do a cammo job, you have excellent suggestions. If you want easy, try Rustoleum black high temperature spray paint for charcoal grills. Good to 1200degrees, it won't cook until your hands are burt off. It is not very solvent resistant or tough, but it matches the finish perfectly, and a can costs less than $4.00 and will last forever. Just re-apply as needed.

I would go for the cammo job... it would look good. Just clean the black with solvent and rinse with distilled water, don't sand anodyzing off.

Pete

What I'm interested in doing is painting the handguard and the stock a light grey or maybe some other color.  Camo isn't for me.

I could not find John Norrell URL but try typing in John Norrell moly gun finish.

KY23

You can find Norrell Moly Resin at
MOLLYRESIN.COM

It is an excellent product.

Good luck

I used the Brownells Aluma-Hyde II
"matte Black" to redo one of my shotguns. They say you dont need primer. I just sanded the whole surface got all the rust off (Was a parts guns) and degreased it using CRC automotive "QD electronics cleaner" (same as gun scrubber) and then shot it with about 4 coats. once cured its pretty tuff and i have yet to scratch it.

NOTE: it takes a week to completely cure. If you live up north or in a humid climate, paint it and let it sit for about 3 weeks. I made that mistake in 80% humidity basement middle of summer and scratched it so i had to reshoot but after that it turned to a nice HK style black.

my two sense