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Posted: 6/22/2003 10:01:54 PM EDT
Ok here is the skinny, I just bought a "bright" Mega lower to go with my bright "Oly" A-3 upper. The thing is that I want to build a rifle that is my own and not like all the ones the fellas have at the range. I figure that I need to dye both parts first just like a primer coat. I haven't quit decided what I will use out of Brownells. Then I figure that I should give the uppper and lower a good stong corrison preventive coating keeping with the "green" theme. I seem to remember hearing that DuraCoat is a good product. Any intel or input you might have on these processes would be greatly appreciated.
Scorpion34 OUT!
Link Posted: 6/26/2003 9:52:37 PM EDT
BTT COme on someone else out there has had to atleast atte,m[pted to finish their own reciever and upper? Right? Oh well off to another board to serach fort he missing link. Scorpion34 OUT!
Link Posted: 6/26/2003 11:03:53 PM EDT
Scorpion, Don't get discouraged. I think people are into different things on different boards. Roderuscustom might be a better board to check out, people there are more into the actual building and finishing of AR15s.
Link Posted: 6/27/2003 6:29:53 AM EDT
I am in the process of completing a couple of 80% lowers... I want to do one of them 'bright'. Let me know what you find out, please. TIA Bob
Link Posted: 6/27/2003 1:47:13 PM EDT
I'm a regular poster at Roderuscustom's Home Gunsmithing Forum. I have extensive experience (for an amateur) in anodizing and dyeing aluminum, as well as Parkerizing and hot blueing steel. There is a wealth of info about DIY finishing at Roderuscustom, go look. I don't understand your goal; by "bright" do you mean glossy? or do you mean polished bare aluminum? You also mention "green" do you mean an olive drab color finish? The original and best way to finish aluminum on an AR15 is anodizing and dyeing. PAINT will always look like paint, and standard anodizing provides a surface several thousand times harder than any paint in existance. The corrosion resistance of anodized finishes is also outstanding. The usual and recommended surface prep before anodizing is bead blasting. This will provide a dull to semi-gloss finish depending on glass bead size. Caswellplating.com can sell you various shades of green anodizing dye, but green is a tricky color to dye, be prepared to experiment on scrap first. Forget RIT or any other fabric dye, get dye that is specific for dyeing anodized aluminum. Another thought; semi-gloss black anodize looks interesting on an AR if the upper and lower both have it, dull olive drab is also cool, but a gloss or semi-gloss olive green may look cheezy.
Link Posted: 6/28/2003 9:30:15 AM EDT
[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/pab7b13a6ef29327c270b0dd1d6a53847/fc47901d.jpg[/img] no way in hell, sumone is goin to confuse my AR with theirs..lol
Link Posted: 6/28/2003 10:01:18 AM EDT
Fibergeek; Nice to see you 'out-and-around'! [:)]
Link Posted: 6/29/2003 5:04:24 PM EDT
Ok, sorry for the delay in response. By "bright" I mean a totally unfinished lower and upper fresh from the CNC. Green is the color I want to make it, but don't want to just paint an anodized reciever and upper. I was looking for an easy way to anodize with a green tint, and then build the rest of the rifle up around it. So I have now learned that you can add a dye to your anodizing solution and get what ever color scheme your looking for. Scorpion34 OUT!
Link Posted: 6/30/2003 12:10:12 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Scorpion34: Green is the color I want to make it, but don't want to just paint an anodized reciever and upper. quote] I think you may find that anodizing is similar to parkerizing, in that it gives a better surface for your final finish.
Link Posted: 6/30/2003 6:03:11 AM EDT
I'm assuming that the CNCed upper and lower are machined from barstock, 6063 or similar. This will anodize and dye easily. BTW, the dye is not added to the electrolyte, dyeing is a secondary process after the anodized layer is grown.
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