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Page AR-15 » Optics, Mounts, and Sights
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Posted: 3/29/2006 11:01:13 AM EDT
Ive been looking at these red dot sights and would like to know if they are any good. I know there is another kind of red dot sight made by the same chinese company that is no good. Are these the same deal?

www.riflescopes.com/departments/991/rifle_scopes/barska_rifle_scopes/barska_red_dot_sights.htm

www.riflescopes.com/products/RD42SB/bsa_red_dot_42mm_scope.htm

www.riflescopes.com/departments/714/rifle_scopes/simmons_rifle_scopes/simmons_red_dot_sights.htm

Here is another one thats a little more expensive that I am curious about. Would this be better than a bushnell holosight?

www.freedomoptics.com/Comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=143
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 12:50:23 PM EDT
[#1]
The cheapest I'd go is a $150 S.P.O.T.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 12:52:42 PM EDT
[#2]
I stay with my cheapy BSA red dots. They have never let me down so far.

Paid $25.00 for a 42mm and $54.00 for a 50mm and they both work great.

RW3
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 12:56:31 PM EDT
[#3]
I have a TacPoint that I really, really like, and I also have a Bushnell HoloSight that is my favorite.  Granted the Bushnell isn't usually what I would call an inexpensive optic, but I got mine on clearance from a store that isn't going to carry them anymore for $50.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 1:03:45 PM EDT
[#4]
For the heck of it, I went down to Wally World and got two of the under $30 BSA [30mm?].  A year or two ago some people here were evaluating them.  The consensus was that they were OK for the money.  They are reputed to 'hold zero' --as about as much that you can expect a 5MOA dot to be said to be a zero in the first place.   And they functioned decent enough in cold weather.  The consensus was that for the money they were a pretty good and somewhat reliable cheap little RD.  

I mounted the first on a 10.25" A2 carry handled M16 with a snap-on cheek weld.  It did indeed do about 5 1/2" MOA at 100 yards and held zero.  I was very impressed.  The 2nd was mounted onto a pair of M4 handguards [with a bolt on Weaver rail adapter].  This is a 16" A2 Superlight and standard M4 handguards.  This BSA RD is configured and 'zeroed' to co-witness with the iron sites on the carry handle and FSB.  If your irons are zeroed, then you can co-witness your RD to set atop the FS right there in your living room and not even need to fire a shot.  It works.  It works except for one thing:  the M4 handguards have 'play' in them.  The handguards feel pretty tight, until you put a bolt-on rail and red dot on them, then they move about 12-19MOA at 100 yards!!  I can move the RD dot L to R and even a little up and down by manipulating the handguards.  So, you are best just to turn the thing off, and use your irons for day time aimed firing if you are firing at something more than 60 yards during the day IF you have it mounted on regular M4 handguards.  However, if you are engaged in NIGHTTIME CQB, it might be an advantage in the Dark.

BTW, I have Trijicon Iron sights that have tritium vialed iron sights on the 16" Superlight.  So, at night,  the red dot 'sits above and on' the illuminated green vial post embedded in the FS post, and the dot is also positioned between the two little 'blurred' green dot vials on the large peep CQB rear site.  These Trijicon irons help deal with the parallax problem in an inexpensive scope like this type.  I would feel comfortable about such a set-up if I had to shoot at night.

I am not so sure about the carry-handled mounted RD at night, because even with a cheek weld piece, the parallax problem becomes more pronounced at night, because you cannot be as sure that you have got the dot positioned at near center in an inexpensive RD like this one.

One last thing:  The dot is dim, almost non-existent in sunshine.  In fact, in outside sunlight at day, it disappears!  OK for overcast, but no good for mid-day sun.

Otherwise, I was surprised and pleased for such a low-priced RD.  Also dropped the thing onto a concrete floor, and it still functions and keeps zero.

If you have never had a red dot before, and you do not wish to spend much in order to see if you would like it, go down to wally world and pick one up.  You will need to get a handle adapter for an A1 or A2, along with a cheek weld piece [best cheap ones are for Carbines].  It might be too low for a regular flat-top, you will need a riser.  It will be too low to be of any good if you put a rail on regular CAR handguards, and you would need a riser for those too.

 

Link Posted: 3/29/2006 1:15:42 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
For the heck of it, I went down to Wally World and got two of the under $30 BSA [30mm?].  A year or two ago some people here were evaluating them.  The consensus was that they were OK for the money.  They are reputed to 'hold zero' --as about as much that you can expect a 5MOA dot to be said to be a zero in the first place.   And they functioned decent enough in cold weather.  The consensus was that for the money they were a pretty good and somewhat reliable cheap little RD.  

I mounted the first on a 10.25" A2 carry handled M16 with a snap-on cheek weld.  It did indeed do about 5 1/2" MOA at 100 yards and held zero.  I was very impressed.  The 2nd was mounted onto a pair of M4 handguards [with a bolt on Weaver rail adapter].  This is a 16" A2 Superlight and standard M4 handguards.  This BSA RD is configured and 'zeroed' to co-witness with the iron sites on the carry handle and FSB.  If your irons are zeroed, then you can co-witness your RD to set atop the FS right there in your living room and not even need to fire a shot.  It works.  It works except for one thing:  the M4 handguards have 'play' in them.  The handguards feel pretty tight, until you put a bolt-on rail and red dot on them, then they move about 12-19MOA at 100 yards!!  I can move the RD dot L to R and even a little up and down by manipulating the handguards.  So, you are best just to turn the thing off, and use your irons for day time aimed firing if you are firing at something more than 60 yards during the day IF you have it mounted on regular M4 handguards.  However, if you are engaged in NIGHTTIME CQB, it might be an advantage in the Dark.

BTW, I have Trijicon Iron sights that have tritium vialed iron sights on the 16" Superlight.  So, at night,  the red dot 'sits above and on' the illuminated green vial post embedded in the FS post, and the dot is also positioned between the two little 'blurred' green dot vials on the large peep CQB rear site.  These Trijicon irons help deal with the parallax problem in an inexpensive scope like this type.  I would feel comfortable about such a set-up if I had to shoot at night.

I am not so sure about the carry-handled mounted RD at night, because even with a cheek weld piece, the parallax problem becomes more pronounced at night, because you cannot be as sure that you have got the dot positioned at near center in an inexpensive RD like this one.

One last thing:  The dot is dim, almost non-existent in sunshine.  In fact, in outside sunlight at day, it disappears!  OK for overcast, but no good for mid-day sun.

Otherwise, I was surprised and pleased for such a low-priced RD.  Also dropped the thing onto a concrete floor, and it still functions and keeps zero.

If you have never had a red dot before, and you do not wish to spend much in order to see if you would like it, go down to wally world and pick one up.  You will need to get a handle adapter for an A1 or A2, along with a cheek weld piece [best cheap ones are for Carbines].  It might be too low for a regular flat-top, you will need a riser.  It will be too low to be of any good if you put a rail on regular CAR handguards, and you would need a riser for those too.

Thanks for the input. Its going on a plinker really. I might just save up and buy a nicer one and just have the irons for now. Especially since I will apparently have to spend more money on a riser (its going on a flattop). I guess Ill save up for a bushnell.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 1:19:10 PM EDT
[#6]
I've got a BSA RDS on my Ruger 10/22 that I got from a dude on the EE.  Couldn't be happier, and contrary to the above post, I think it performs quite well in noon sunlight. YMMV
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 1:34:08 PM EDT
[#7]
clonepoint from jackyixcd in the EE is the way to go, got mine for 70 shipped and it is damn nice
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 1:40:40 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
clonepoint from jackyixcd in the EE is the way to go, got mine for 70 shipped and it is damn nice

Never seen one. Ill be looking. Any links to them for sale?
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 2:18:16 PM EDT
[#9]
I agree with Forest, the SPOT is the way to go. I have a Burris XTS and a SPOT... Packaging for both was the same. If not for the Burris logo, it would be impossible to tell them apart.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 2:37:56 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:

Quoted:
clonepoint from jackyixcd in the EE is the way to go, got mine for 70 shipped and it is damn nice

Never seen one. Ill be looking. Any links to them for sale?



+1

If your looking for a fun, in-expensive red dot for a plinker rifle, the Clonepoints are a good choice.

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=23&t=318369




Link Posted: 3/29/2006 3:42:53 PM EDT
[#11]
I put a cheap Chinese "Famous Maker" on a MAK 90 and it is actually pretty reliable. I know another guy that had the same red dot and it came apart while adjusting it. I think I got lucky. I have a BSA that the dot is blurry and oblong. If I bought another inexpensive red dot it would be a S.P.O.T. More expensive than BSA but it would save a lot of aggrevation.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 4:20:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Well I dont think Ill get any chinese sights. That $65 looks good to me. I dont like the little caps but hey...what can you do.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 9:37:43 PM EDT
[#13]
I had a $30 BSA on my Bushmaster for quite a while, until I got a great deal on an Aimpoint, and I have nothing but good things to say about it.  I always held a zero and held up well.  It is currently on a buddy's carbine, still working great.  Then only negative issue with the cheaper optics is the battery life.  Another department has a Highpoint 9mm carbine that came with a factory BSA optic.  The carbine has had several thousands (>15K) of rounds through it and the optic is still running fine.  That particular carbine was used in a 3 day carbine course and the operator using it scored the highest score in the class.  BTW, everyone else had Colt/Bushy/RRA, some with high dollar optics.  But that is another post.

All in all, most of the cheaper optics will work, some better than others, but their failure rate does appear to be higher than the Aimpoints.

Sarge
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 9:44:22 PM EDT
[#14]
The BSA reddot I had shedded it's rubber coating after a few weeks of use, and the front "glass" shot loose.
I returned it. My last BSA product.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 10:10:27 PM EDT
[#15]
I broke down and got a Tasco for $25 bucks (50% off) for plinking it's fine so far.  Haven't had a chance to wring it out on a range.  spect it will be good for plinking and blasting.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 10:41:37 AM EDT
[#16]
hmm. Well maybe Ill get one for a little while. Ill still probably just wait and save for a bushnell or clonepoint.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 10:44:51 AM EDT
[#17]
my Tasco Propoint has been very reliable
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 2:38:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 5:19:00 PM EDT
[#19]
I bought a tasco a few yrs. ago and have beat the crap out of it and it still works like new.  It's a 30mm from wally world with the rubber armor.  It looks pretty much like the bsa's they sell now.

Quoted:
my Tasco Propoint has been very reliable

Link Posted: 4/1/2006 3:57:58 PM EDT
[#20]
Foxtrot, Just go ahead and get the thing!  You won't regret it, and it is not that much $!  You may not need a riser for a flat-top.  I had the BSA RDS for a while on my "Recce", but when I did I had a full-rifle-length free float rail system over a carbine length gas system with NO front sight BUIS or anything in the rear either.  It worked fine for that.  So, if you have a gas block on the front, you are in great shape!
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 9:01:03 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
Foxtrot, Just go ahead and get the thing!  You won't regret it, and it is not that much $!  You may not need a riser for a flat-top.  I had the BSA RDS for a while on my "Recce", but when I did I had a full-rifle-length free float rail system over a carbine length gas system with NO front sight BUIS or anything in the rear either.  It worked fine for that.  So, if you have a gas block on the front, you are in great shape!

Alright! THanks!
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