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Posted: 10/30/2003 11:01:10 AM EDT
I have been trying to find some info on what model would be best suited for this rifle, but mainly I found advice on attaching one to a SPR. I envision using the rifle for prone shooting on grass and for benchrest shooting. So here are my questions:

- what is the best model to use for these combined applications?
- what height?
- I read something about using a ARMS #32, but I think this was only for picatinney-type mounting. Do I need a quick-detach mount and which one? Would I need to drill a hole in the handguards to attach it or the bipod itself?
- Is the podloc worth getting?

Thanks much for all your replies.
Link Posted: 10/30/2003 5:04:57 PM EDT
Rock, I'll Jump in on this one. I do a lot of varmint shooting, and bench shooting with my XM. First of all, stay with the Harris. Most of the others are pretty worthless, imho. If the Pod Lock is the same as the versa pod, it is junk. Anything with the compression type nuts are a waste of time and money. Second, you might want to give consideration to the swiveling head type. I have owned both, and the swiveling is great, especially on the ground, where it is likely to be uneven. As to the attachment, you did not mention what type of handguards that you are using, but you can get the adapter for the military handguards, or you can drill the hole for the sling swivel stud in other type handguards. I think that most Harris bipods work best with some type of sling swivel stud. You do not want this thing mounted on anything but your handguard (preferably free floated), if you are concerned with accuracy. Anything resting on the barrel will give you accuracy fits. You will also find that with any bipod, with any type of attachment, your poi will change when going from a hard surface, to the grass. It may not be a lot, but it will be there. I generally work on the bench for load work, and some fun, but as I do not hunt or varmint shoot from a bench, I use the longer Harris, from a sitting position. It is not quite as steady as bench shooting, but it is better practice for me. I find that in the fully collapsed position, I can still use it for prone. My last Harris was just a little too short for sitting. The sitting style tends to be a bit too long for bench work. I am sorry that I do not have any model numbers or heights to give you, but I do not have my gun here. What I would suggest that you do is set the gun up on the bench, with bags, get it into the position that you like, and then make a measurement. Then I would use some shooting sticks in the prone position, and get the gun set up for your height, and the type of grass that you will be shooting over. Make that measurement, and find the bipod that best fits. As you did not mention the type of grass that you have, or what you would be shooting at, it is hard to be more specific as to heights. Most of the lower BP's will work for prone and bench, but if you need to clear some tall grass, or cactus, or slope, you might want a little more flexibility in a longer one. The bench is fun, but not terribly great practice for the real world, especially while hunting or varminting. If your just paper punching, or can blasting, it all may not be to critical, as you will have time to adjust your leg screws, and get everything even. What I have decided is to stay with either the sitting or prone for all real practice, so that I do not have to worry about poi changes. My sitting bipod works well enough in prone. This saved my bacon a few weeks ago, while antelope hunting. I had a great prone setup, but when the antelope came into view, even the high prone was not enough to clear the grass and slope. So I just rolled over, extended my legs, and popped up sitting. One dead antelope. The nice thing about the Harris' is that they attach via the sling swivel stud, and are quickly removed and changed. I have several, and that may be the best approach. Craig
Link Posted: 11/1/2003 8:14:51 AM EDT
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I have A bushy Varminter and I'm in the middle of ordering the same thing. To add to what bearbait said. The varminter does come with a stud already installed with the stock forarm (varminter FF forearm -- I don't know if you have the gun yet, so just letting you know) so I'm assuming that it will already accept the bipod w/o any adaptors. I know they do sell an adaptor for the ar-15/m16, but I believe this is for military style forends. Don't know if this helps any. Bear definitely sounds like he knows what he's talking about, I just thought I would add that as I believe the stock system with the varminter accepts the Harris bipod mounting system. Gundraw
Link Posted: 11/1/2003 11:39:00 AM EDT
I have a 9-13" Harris on my Varminter. It does real well, but if you are going to be shooting over higher grass, the 13-25" model might be what you need. My son and I use 'em shooting crows and coyotes across fields. Mine is probably 15 years old or so, so I don't have the swivel model. I would like to try one sometimes, and if I ever do get another bipod, that is what I will get. [img]http://photos.imageevent.com/brobert/guns/websize/DSC00062.JPG[/img]
Link Posted: 11/3/2003 6:48:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/3/2003 6:51:34 AM EDT by rock_jock88]
Thanks for all the info, guys. I think I am going to buy the SBR, which is the 6-9" model with a swivel. I don't intend to use the gun for hunting anytime soon, and if I do, I will pick up another bipod later. BTW, glock23c, what is that optic you have on there and how did you mount it? Are you geting enough height and eye relief? I just bought a LNIB Leupold Vari-X III 6.5-20x40 for $300 and plan to mount it as soon as I get the gun, but I don't know what type of mounting system to use - the RRA single piece mount, or the ARMS system with the #5 and #22 rings Not sure what height rings to get either).
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 6:43:14 AM EDT
Check out GGG's in Bipod. light weight, and durable. I have one on an AR-50, work great.
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 2:36:58 PM EDT
Get the Poc-Loc. It is a lever that replaces the knurled thumbscrew on the swivel lock. It's almost impossible for a mere mortal to torque the thumbscrew hard enough to get a solid lock on the swivel. The Poc-Loc gives you more leverage. You can set the amount of effort required to get the swivel to slip with much greater precision or you can lock it outright.
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 2:54:33 PM EDT
Thanks for the info on the Poc-Loc(?). I ordered a setup from Mike @ CS Services today. He was very helpful and even called A.R.M.S. on my behalf to find out what they recommended for a high magnification long eye-relief scope on a flattop with a 30mm tube and 40mm objective. They recommended an #36 mount and #22 med-height throw rings, so that is what I ordered. I also ordered a Harris SBR with the swivel and notch legs. Finally, I ordered a variety of BH ammo in 68, 69, 75, and 77 grains for long-range (600-yd) BR shooting. All I need now is the actual gun and some time to shoot.
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 6:59:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/4/2003 7:06:10 PM EDT by glock23c]
Hmmm... My first Double tap. [img]http://photos.imageevent.com/brobert/hosting//turner.gif[/img]
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 7:00:56 PM EDT
Rock, The scope is a Simmons AETEC 3.8x12x44AO. Got it locally for $135. [img]http://photos.imageevent.com/brobert/guns/websize/DSC00070.JPG[/img] The mount is a Rock River one piece. Ordered form SABELCO for $40. [img]http://photos.imageevent.com/brobert/guns/websize/rock1.jpg[/img] As for the height, it is lined up right where the factory iron sights line up. This particular scope has 3+" eye releif, so that is no problem. I use it for shooting crows and coyotes. Hope this helps.
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