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Quoted: please tell me this is a troll post and you dont actually believe these myths View Quote an instructor in a classroom segment said "and of course never use steel ammo" there was laughing through the whole room. Remember when we were told you'd never make it through a carbine class with Russian ammo? I was at a carbine class and someone else from the site knew who I was. He looked in my ammo can, saw it was full of wolf and just started laughing |
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Bam! Home run with bases loaded in center field even. My time is my own to dictate how it's spent doing whatever I please. And I choose to reload because I get batter ammunition that way View Quote |
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there has been tons of 70yo 8mm steel case as well as 45 acp from ww2 thats still fine if its kept from humidity, it will last as long as brass. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: If you are using it for practice at appropriate ranges then I don't see an issue. I would not keep it for long term storage ammo. I have seen steel case corrode in the mag and cause issues. This happened to me with 9mm steel cased ammo I left loaded in mags. Brass cased ammo can stay loaded for years and it may change color, tarnish, but it won't stick to itself or damage the walls of a steel magazine. There are many reasons why quality ammo has been made of brass for many many years. If money is not a concern brass is always better. if its kept from humidity, it will last as long as brass. |
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I'm glad there are so many who do not shoot steel case ammo... keeps the cost down for me...
Why would I want to spend more money ???? All my AR's have always shot steel case ammo well... and here's the thing... I've never had issues with it. No duds, no squibs, no missing primers... Say what you want about those Godless Commie heathens'. They know how to make ammo. Hell, I had more issues with the Brit made Radway green Brass ammo from the early 2000's then I ever did with steel case. And the whole wearing a barrel out... Phuleese… I hope I can shoot that much to the point I need to replace a $150 Barrel. I like to shoot... as often as I can.. and steel case pricing makes that happen. Is it long range ammo?? accuracy wise no, but I can still tag a steel torso out to 300meters with it. It's not any dirtier then any other ammo and the whole lacquer sticking deal was all internet hype. The money I save on just two cases of Wolf vs. 1 case of Wolf Gold, lets me by a case of Tula or Wolf 9mm. And as far a reloading... yeah, you sit in your basement and resize...tumble...trim... reload.... for hours.. I'll be at the range shooting, and then leave my casings where they lie.... I'll reload for precision, but not for anything else... I find reloading tedious and a simple ends to a means... I get no Joy out of it, I do it to save cost on my .308 Bolt and Garand.... nothing more. |
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not chiming in on cheap steel (except to say that I do shoot it when i'm practicing drills or not worried about longer ranges) but hornady steel match is fantastic. I use the heavy stuff for my 1/8 JP barrel and it's the most accurate ammo I have shot. I don't load rifle, and 3 gun is mostly lost brass anyway, so never made sense to get better. I used the 55gn for bay stages, 75 gn for distance or when you need to activate a swinger/popper. hits harder and the 55 is close enough if you dial in for 75.
I think they do a powder coating instead of laquor, never gum up my guns and shoot reliably. If you want cost savings and to do mag dumps just get a conversion kit and shoot 22s. I bought one a decade ago and it paid itself off the first day. been profit ever since. |
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For the range, sure. If it's hard on extractors, why don't we constantly hear about broken extractors?
For defensive purposes, thoroughly clean the chamber after shooting it and then use brass ammo. If you really want to, use one extractor for range only and have another one for self defense. It's easy enough to switch them out. |
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I'm glad there are so many who do not shoot steel case ammo... keeps the cost down for me... Why would I want to spend more money ???? All my AR's have always shot steel case ammo well... and here's the thing... I've never had issues with it. No duds, no squibs, no missing primers... Say what you want about those Godless Commie heathens'. They know how to make ammo. Hell, I had more issues with the Brit made Radway green Brass ammo from the early 2000's then I ever did with steel case. And the whole wearing a barrel out... Phuleese… I hope I can shoot that much to the point I need to replace a $150 Barrel. I like to shoot... as often as I can.. and steel case pricing makes that happen. Is it long range ammo?? accuracy wise no, but I can still tag a steel torso out to 300meters with it. It's not any dirtier then any other ammo and the whole lacquer sticking deal was all internet hype. The money I save on just two cases of Wolf vs. 1 case of Wolf Gold, lets me by a case of Tula or Wolf 9mm. And as far a reloading... yeah, you sit in your basement and resize...tumble...trim... reload.... for hours.. I'll be at the range shooting, and then leave my casings where they lie.... I'll reload for precision, but not for anything else... I find reloading tedious and a simple ends to a means... I get no Joy out of it, I do it to save cost on my .308 Bolt and Garand.... nothing more. View Quote Even the new Tula is better than before , I like it now better than Wolf, that zinc helps with bore lube, and they are more consistent now than before, you can actually shoot better groups now with Tula better than most of the US military rounds, and better than wolf, not wolf gold though which is going for 6.99 around here, and shoots awesome. None of the above will touch the Hornady steel match, or the Hornady steel 55gr sp, @$21 for 50 rds, it like 10 free rds, cant reload them though. |
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Quoted: because its a myth and stupid people dont understand metal hardness View Quote 308 Wolf 145gr sp for $8.50 a box, The stuff shoot's plenty good for whitetails, or old washing machines. Does pretty good on targets too, around 2", outta one of my 308's |
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I've taken 55 gr Wolf out to 600 yds and banged on steel plates with my 1-5X Burris with a BDC reticle...
I wont' be winning any Presidents 100 tab with it, but for practical minute of bad guy, it gets the job done. Yeah, lots of myths about melting lacquer and wearing out extractors and barrels.,yadda,yadda… I read the Lucky gunner test, and that was extreme, and the end result, the money saved , would buy multiple replacement barrels, and there using a pretty harsh firing schedule. I had a Older Bushmaster that had well over 12K on it and most of that was steel. still shot very well. |
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I've taken 55 gr Wolf out to 600 yds and banged on steel plates with my 1-5X Burris with a BDC reticle... I wont' be winning any Presidents 100 tab with it, but for practical minute of bad guy, it gets the job done. Yeah, lots of myths about melting lacquer and wearing out extractors and barrels.,yadda,yadda… I read the Lucky gunner test, and that was extreme, and the end result, the money saved , would buy multiple replacement barrels, and there using a pretty harsh firing schedule. I had a Older Bushmaster that had well over 12K on it and most of that was steel. still shot very well. View Quote The new Tula with Zinc coating on the steel case is what I like now, and I know everybody hates Tula, but try it before you hate on the zinc coated ones. This time around Tula shoots better & functions better, QC is better, and I wouldn't doubt it's easier on the barrels than the thin copper they used to use. The bullets are silver, looks Kool, shoots better, most times 2" and under for me esp. with the 62gr sp. Buy em and stack em. |
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If you shoot brass & then shoot steel, be sure to clean your rifle & especially scrub the chamber well. Brass expands when fired which keeps the chamber cleaner. Steel doesn't expand at firing. That allows more gas & grit around the chamber. Firing brass, then steel then back to brass can cause malfunctions due to the brass expanding against the now dirty & gritty chamber. View Quote i need to try lacquered cases though. the poly is really sticky and doesnt move strip out as easy. |
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Quoted: i'll buy 500 or 1000 rounds of wolf poly a year to shoot and run it until its gone then switch back to brass. i have never ran into that problem. i need to try lacquered cases though. the poly is really sticky and doesnt move strip out as easy. View Quote Brass expands and conforms to the inside of your chamber creating obturation. So the carbon blowback does not get past the casing. Steel, being harder, does not seal as well causing poor obturation. If you have a tight chamber, that magnifies the problem. You may have to scrub your chamber more often, |
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To me, it’s “any reason TO buy steel case ammo”? You can get decent brass ammo for $0.28 / rd right now.
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Its not the poly or lacquer….It's the carbon that blows back into the chamber due to the steel casing not being as soft as brass. The fancy term is "Obturation" Brass expands and conforms to the inside of your chamber creating obturation. So the carbon blowback does not get past the casing. Steel, being harder, does not seal as well causing poor obturation. If you have a tight chamber, that magnifies the problem. You may have to scrub your chamber more often, View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: i'll buy 500 or 1000 rounds of wolf poly a year to shoot and run it until its gone then switch back to brass. i have never ran into that problem. i need to try lacquered cases though. the poly is really sticky and doesnt move strip out as easy. Brass expands and conforms to the inside of your chamber creating obturation. So the carbon blowback does not get past the casing. Steel, being harder, does not seal as well causing poor obturation. If you have a tight chamber, that magnifies the problem. You may have to scrub your chamber more often, |
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To me, it’s “any reason TO buy steel case ammo”? You can get decent brass ammo for $0.28 / rd right now. View Quote if a fudd type like to shoot a couple boxes of ammo a month off a bench, then brass may be the way to go |
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Quoted: i was referring to the wolf steel poly cases in the mags. View Quote |
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Quoted: Its not the poly or lacquer….It's the carbon that blows back into the chamber due to the steel casing not being as soft as brass. The fancy term is "Obturation" Brass expands and conforms to the inside of your chamber creating obturation. So the carbon blowback does not get past the casing. Steel, being harder, does not seal as well causing poor obturation. If you have a tight chamber, that magnifies the problem. You may have to scrub your chamber more often, View Quote |
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Quoted: The only similarity is that both use a steel casing. Hornady Steel Match should not be considered in the same category as other steel case. The projectile is a premium Hornady bullet, and I’d wager it is loaded with much greater consistency. View Quote |
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Echoing what most others have said - I see no reason to avoid steel, so long as you're aware of the drawbacks that almost always accompany it. I was one of those 'Steel?! Never!' guys, then bought a case of the SGammo contract Barnaul 55gr. Ran 500 or so rounds through the CQBR without a hitch and found accuracy to be in the same ballpark as Wolf Gold, which had been my go-to for training purposes.
I'll stick with 262 for groups and HD, but for general plinking the 55gr SG stuff is what i'll be going with from here on out. |
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Correct but I'm talking about long term if you keep steel case loaded in mags. Once you crack a case of old steel ammo then handle it when loading it can form corrosion on the outside of the case where dissimilar metals are in contact. Brass is largely inert and won't react with other metals the same way as steel. Again steel case ammo will last a long long time sealed in tins but once it's opened in a shtf situation and maybe gets wet cause its raining or you have to wade through water, etc. That's when you need your long term ammo to be made of brass. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: If you are using it for practice at appropriate ranges then I don't see an issue. I would not keep it for long term storage ammo. I have seen steel case corrode in the mag and cause issues. This happened to me with 9mm steel cased ammo I left loaded in mags. Brass cased ammo can stay loaded for years and it may change color, tarnish, but it won't stick to itself or damage the walls of a steel magazine. There are many reasons why quality ammo has been made of brass for many many years. If money is not a concern brass is always better. if its kept from humidity, it will last as long as brass. sitting on 5-6k steel wolf from eons ago, dumped in 20mm cans and I just open and pull handfuls with zero issues. Don't think, just do.... |
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Quoted: some people shoot more than you and at 10 cents a round thats hundreds of not thousands a year if a fudd type like to shoot a couple boxes of ammo a month off a bench, then brass may be the way to go View Quote |
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Quoted: Go be poor somewhere else. I shoot plenty...but maybe not enough. Maybe 400-600 rds of 5.56 a month. View Quote I shoot about the same as you it sounds. ABout the same in 9mm as well. So about 10-12k rounds a year on a good year. Sometimes more sometimes less (like half of those numbers if things keeps me from the range), but that's still a significant cost savings over a year time span when youre talking 70ish dollars savings per k on .223 and 30ish dollars on 9mm. It's good you have the money to throw around like that I guess but those of us who have lives outside of being at a range all the time like to spend money on other things as well. |
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The only similarity is that both use a steel casing. Hornady Steel Match should not be considered in the same category as other steel case. The projectile is a premium Hornady bullet, and I’d wager it is loaded with much greater consistency. View Quote There’s a company called American Ammunition, headquartered in Miami, FL. They use the headstamp A-MERC. Their brass is extremely consistent - consistently off. I have never seen one of their cases with a centered flash hole. You can find tons of reports of how very bad their products are. Yet they are an American company that makes and sells brass cased ammunition. It sure isn’t the brass material that makes A-MERC crappy ammunition. The best information I have is that Hornady gets their Berdan primed steel cases from Barnaul - I have always had good experiences with Barnaul’s products, whether under their own name or the “Monarch” brand from Academy Sports. Hornady uses their own excellent bullets and carefully selected powders. I’ll agree that Hornady is likely much more consistently manufactured than any of the Russian made steel cased products - and several orders of magnitude more consistently than Tula, unless Tula’s changed recently. |
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Quoted: Another good reason. Probably the best reason. I didn't bring it up because most people on this forum can't think that large scale. View Quote |
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My personal reason why I don't use steel ammo in any gun I own. (besides the very good reasons already mentioned) 1. Steel ammo tends to be coated in a clear lacquer paint. Super heated sticks to the inside of your chamber and curds everything up and just more that I have to clean. 2. I tend to do what then engineers that designed my firearm intended me to do. Varying from that tends to screw things up. Firearms were designed with brass ammo in mind. Steel ammo against a steel extractor, I would think, would put greater wear on my my extractor as it was designed to be pulling a brass case, not a steel one. Steel against steel causes more wear ... all over, as opposed to brass. Again, just my opinion. Since I don't need to i just don't. View Quote |
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Here’s the problem with just calling stuff “steel cased ammunition.” Hornady’s ammo is anything but “cheap,” though their Steel Match line is quite affordable. People put too much importance on the casing material and essentially ignore everything else about the product, so they somehow get the idea that a steel case magically makes a round crappy. There’s a company called American Ammunition, headquartered in Miami, FL. They use the headstamp A-MERC. Their brass is extremely consistent - consistently off. I have never seen one of their cases with a centered flash hole. You can find tons of reports of how very bad their products are. Yet they are an American company that makes and sells brass cased ammunition. It sure isn’t the brass material that makes A-MERC crappy ammunition. The best information I have is that Hornady gets their Berdan primed steel cases from Barnaul - I have always had good experiences with Barnaul’s products, whether under their own name or the “Monarch” brand from Academy Sports. Hornady uses their own excellent bullets and carefully selected powders. I’ll agree that Hornady is likely much more consistently manufactured than any of the Russian made steel cased products - and several orders of magnitude more consistently than Tula, unless Tula’s changed recently. View Quote The big Army has tested steel cased ammo many times in the past, here is what they have learned: 1. Poor heat treating cause problems, 2. Poor choice of lacquer causes problems, 3. All weapons will work fine with properly made steel cased ammunition coated with quality lacquer, 4. Increased part wear was negligible, 5. Steel cases are lighter, 6. There is negligible difference in case strength, 7. Making steel cases is very different from making brass cases. The take-a-way is that quality control of steel cases has a greater impact on reliability. So, cheap Tula is a poor performer, because it's cheap, not because there is some inherent "badness" in steel cases. So, why hasn't the Army changed to steel cases? Actually, they have to some degree. All new small arms cartridges introduced, since about 1970 have not been brass cased, of course, that's only been three types, the 30mm x 113, 30mm x 173 in aluminum cases and 25mm x 137 in steel. (EDIT: The aborted 6mm SAW rounds was designed from the start to be steel cased as well.) The reasons older cartridge designs have never switched to steel are all economic, not technical. Oh, and one other thing . . . some people will state that the AK "was designed to work with steel cased ammo..." No, that is a false statement. When the AK-47 was designed the Soviet Union was still using brass cases for M43 (7.62 x 39), and only some WW2 surplus 7.62 x 54R was steel cased. It wasn't until the mid- to late-1950s did the Soviets start introducing steel cased M43 and not until the early 1960 was it all steel cased. |
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