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Posted: 11/4/2003 11:02:56 AM EDT
I am seeing a few different deals on this ammo from a couple of different countries of origin.

Which is best and where can I get it?
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 11:16:32 AM EDT
i've got 80 rounds i'm trying to part with, on strip clips in a bandolier.... i think its turkish surplus. Dagger
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 11:22:57 AM EDT
SOG is offering WHAT THEY ARE SAYING IS non-corrosive TURKISH ammo on strippers in Bandoliers for $4.34 for 70 rounds. Is this decent ammo?
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 12:00:35 PM EDT
Turkish 8mm is good ammo, but was all corrosive AFAIK. Even if it's not, it never hurts to clean the gun like it is corrosive. That's probably one of the better prices you'll find on it. I've seen it for as low as $4.50/bandoleer locally, but that was at a huge gun show with plenty of competition.
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 12:33:26 PM EDT
Originally Posted By chaos4570: I am seeing a few different deals on this ammo from a couple of different countries of origin. Which is best and where can I get it?
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I have a couple spam cans of 8mm Romanian ammo from www.aimsurplus.com They sell 380 rounds for $29.95. It looks great and works great in our Mauser. I have yet to have one not go bang and it groups as well as I can expect with the clunky issue iron sights. http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/8mm.html Hope that helps! DD
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 12:36:14 PM EDT
The Turkish stuff will rust up your barrel and it doesn't go bang about 20% of the time. If I were you guys, I would avoid it at all cost. Pure garbage. Buy this stuff instead... http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/8mm.html Works great and very cheap. Fun for 8mm plinking.
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 3:45:13 PM EDT
I have over 100K of the Turk 8mm. I have had [b]1[/b] FTF. That has been the only problem ever. Avoid the ammo made in 1947 and you will be just fine. I have found it to be accurate, but you will ususally need a high front sight blade to be on target. I use it open sights out to 200 yards on ground hogs. The Romanian ammo is good ammo as well, but I, like many others have gound that there are about 10% FTF in automatics. A second time through the rifle will usually do it. I have found it unreliable in the two MG's. Few problems in the Mausers though. This ammo has a cintered iron core and tends not to overpenatrate. The ammo from Equador is a mixed bag. If you get a decent lot, it is great, if it is bad, it is bad. The Yugo is pretty decent, but a lot if '70's production has deep primers and does not go off a lot of the time. The Greek 8mm has been found by many people to be pretty decent ammo. The WWII german that J&G is selling has been getting great reviews, but I must be alone in thinking it is crap with about 50% FTF. All of this ammo is corrisive. [url]www.ammunitionstore.com[/url] has a great sale on the Turk ammo, and it has all been good years that I have bought.
Link Posted: 11/4/2003 3:47:35 PM EDT
8mm. Romanian is the best and the best price is from Interordnance. Cheap, you can get it from Century or AmmunitionStore. Romanian from Interordinance is $44.95 760 rounds. It says 80 pounds but is actually 62 ounds. [url=www.interordnance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=INTERORDNANCE.com&Product_Code=8MM+A]Romanian[/url] Ammunitionstore has Turk 1940's 3360 rnds $125.95 Works great in my 1919, but not as good as the Romanian. Anyone in VA want to split a pallet of Romanian with me? 42 cases, about 20 each. [:D]
Link Posted: 11/5/2003 10:52:08 AM EDT
Originally Posted By DavidDetroit: The Turkish stuff will rust up your barrel and it doesn't go bang about 20% of the time. If I were you guys, I would avoid it at all cost. Pure garbage. Buy this stuff instead... http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/8mm.html Works great and very cheap. Fun for 8mm plinking.
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Any ammo will rust any barrel if you do not clean your gun properly. I clean with ammonia, Ed's Red, then a light coat of oil in the bore and have never had a rusting problem with Turk ammo. I've mostly shot '43 with a little '49 Turk in 2 different Mausers. My dad has shot '43, '49, and '50 Turk in 2 other different Mausers, cleans the same way I do, and doesn't have a problem either. Your bore getting rusted is the fault of the operator by way of negligence in cleaning procedure, not the ammunition itself.
Link Posted: 11/5/2003 12:28:05 PM EDT
Originally Posted By securitysix:
Originally Posted By DavidDetroit: The Turkish stuff will rust up your barrel and it doesn't go bang about 20% of the time. If I were you guys, I would avoid it at all cost. Pure garbage. Buy this stuff instead... http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/8mm.html Works great and very cheap. Fun for 8mm plinking.
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Any ammo will rust any barrel if you do not clean your gun properly. I clean with ammonia, Ed's Red, then a light coat of oil in the bore and have never had a rusting problem with Turk ammo. I've mostly shot '43 with a little '49 Turk in 2 different Mausers. My dad has shot '43, '49, and '50 Turk in 2 other different Mausers, cleans the same way I do, and doesn't have a problem either. Your bore getting rusted is the fault of the operator by way of negligence in cleaning procedure, not the ammunition itself.
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Agreed. I simply use hot soapy water then a regular cleaning, and I have never once had a problem in any mil-surp rifle and corrosive ammo.
Link Posted: 11/5/2003 9:42:12 PM EDT
7, I might take up up on your offer to spilt a pallet. mail me with cost!
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 11:12:41 AM EDT
I will cut you guys a deal, without making you buy a pallet. Bryan@aimsurplus.com
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 8:18:26 PM EDT
Front page of Nov, 10th Shotgun News has Turkish $30 per 700, $57 per 1400 and $105 per 2800 from J & G Sales. Sorry don't know how to make a link hot but it's www.jgsales.com.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 8:57:29 PM EDT
I've shot about 300 rounds off Turkish 8mm headstamped 1939 and 1940 with no failure to fire. Watch out for inflated shipping charges. Some places have cheap prices on ammo and stick it to you on shipping and "handling" charges.
Link Posted: 11/6/2003 9:16:25 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/9/2003 6:02:44 AM EDT
Originally Posted By MickeyMouse: I have had some FTF issues with Turk in my Mausers. Second attempt always works.
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I had similiar problems on a few guns and the problem was solved with a new extra power spring from Brownells. You have to remember that some of these springs are over 70 years old so they're no match for tough old primers. I just ran 2 cases of Turk (2800 rds) thru a 1919 this week and had 11 duds. Not bad for 60 year old ammo. This stuff is so cheap now that you should stockpile if you have the cash and space. Century can't be beat as they have free shipping once your order is over a certain amount. Interordnance has the highest shipping/handling I've ever seen (ie, $22 for a case of ammo).
Link Posted: 11/12/2003 11:04:17 AM EDT
Originally Posted By obershutze916: I have over 100K of the Turk 8mm. I have had [b]1[/b] FTF. That has been the only problem ever. Avoid the ammo made in 1947 and you will be just fine. I have found it to be accurate, but you will ususally need a high front sight blade to be on target. I use it open sights out to 200 yards on ground hogs. All of this ammo is corrisive. [url]www.ammunitionstore.com[/url] has a great sale on the Turk ammo, and it has all been good years that I have bought.
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I took your advise and got a bit of this Turkish stuff.....1946. What was wrong with the 1947? I figured this ammo would be corrosive, I called SOG to verify that theirs was NON-Corrosive. They told me that it was Absolutely Non-Corrosive! 1940's Turkish with German RWS NON-Corrosive primers is what the lady told me. SOUNDED LIKE A LINE OF B.S. to me. I Purchased it from the Ammunition Store. Thank you sir!
Link Posted: 11/12/2003 11:32:54 AM EDT
Best bet is to treat all surplus ammo as corrosive. Moreso if it's 1970's or earlier. Heck, some of the Korean 30-06 is corrosive an that was made in the late 70's I belive. Av.
Link Posted: 11/12/2003 12:42:45 PM EDT
Originally Posted By chaos4570:
Originally Posted By obershutze916: I have over 100K of the Turk 8mm. I have had [b]1[/b] FTF. That has been the only problem ever. Avoid the ammo made in 1947 and you will be just fine. I have found it to be accurate, but you will ususally need a high front sight blade to be on target. I use it open sights out to 200 yards on ground hogs. All of this ammo is corrisive. [url]www.ammunitionstore.com[/url] has a great sale on the Turk ammo, and it has all been good years that I have bought.
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I took your advise and got a bit of this Turkish stuff.....1946. What was wrong with the 1947? I figured this ammo would be corrosive, I called SOG to verify that theirs was NON-Corrosive. They told me that it was Absolutely Non-Corrosive! 1940's Turkish with German RWS NON-Corrosive primers is what the lady told me. SOUNDED LIKE A LINE OF B.S. to me. I Purchased it from the Ammunition Store. Thank you sir!
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Chaos, SOG flat out lied to you. Don't feel bad, they have a quota of lies they must fill each day. [;)] 90% of the Turk I got from them was 1935, or 1939. The last lot was 1943. I was there a couple days ago and they got a load of 1939 in again. The main problem with 1947 was quality control. Split necks, failure to fire, hang fires, bullets falling out of the case......... The lots do not get bad progressivly by year. Some years are good, others are great, 1947 was just crap. Without a doubt the Turk is corrosive. The ammo made on German RWS machinery is the Romanian. (It is corrosive too) The Germans helped to set up the Turk factory or at least had a hand in it, but that is it.. Another lie. The Turk is hot, not just European ammo specs hot, it is hot. I get about 3,000 - 3,200 FPS with a 154 grain bullet. Compaire to U.S. M-2 ball with a 150grain bullet at 2,700 FPS.The only problem I have is rapid barrel heating when shooting in our timed matches. All of it shoots minute of clay pigeon at 100M, and minute of milk jug at 200M - open sights.
Link Posted: 11/12/2003 3:48:05 PM EDT
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