Hi all,
I've been reading on here on and off for a while, but now find myself a little behind the knowledge curve...
I've built a standard AR (.223/5.56) which is pretty straight forward, however, I wanted to get into the 9mm version for kids to shoot or indoor range shooting, (cost of ammo) etc.
I ordered a PSA billet glock style 9mm stripped lower and it appears that I can use regular fire control group/lower parts kits etc... but that's where I'm stuck.  I really wanted to get a Beretta CX4, but price is a little out of the question all up front - with PSA parts I think I can go cheaper and have something that controls like the regular AR for the most part.

Questions/concerns:

1. Pistol or Carbine? Advantages or disadvantages? (just would like to talk through it some)
-I haven't decided whether to build it into a pistol or carbine (looking at PSA 16 in A3 style upper).  I may put a red-dot on it but for now will likely either use a carry handle rear sight or magpul MBUS style flip up.  
2. Don't really care if it's free floated for now but seems like it would be easy enough to cut down the A2 style front sight if going with free float hand rail or something-- Good/bad idea? or possible?
3. I don't know what buffer tube (assuming carbine for now) - PSA's prebuilt lowers seem like they're just using a standard M4 style buffer tube and buffer, but I've read some things about 9mm blow back needing heavier buffer and spring? Does it also need a shorter tube? This is really where I'm a little fuzzy.

(Other factors - I don't intend to put a silencer on it or make it into a SBR - Just want a training tool, fun range gun, possible cheaper to shoot but not 22lr AR.)

Thanks for any help- ideas you all can provide- they are much appreciated.

ok, thanks.  I'll look at those buffers a little more in detail when I have some more time tonight.

One other thing that I noticed in that picture, that was actually one of my questions I forgot to post...
I see a lot of the older AR 9mm carbines/pistols with huge shell deflectors and some that have the dust cover.  Is this really necessary?  I mean, I know that it's not "absolute" as even some standard entry level ARs don't come with dust covers and I see a lot of 9mm uppers that don't have the shell deflector... but is that something to look for or just "extra" weight - does it help make it ambidextrous?  I may have some lefties shooting with me on occasion.

That is a cool pistol by the way.  I just don't really have the funds for a 9mm suppressor right now since I'd like to get one for .223/.22lr  first.  my understanding is that the threads would be different and I don't know if a 9mm would work on 22lr anyway?  Different topic I suppose but I haven't really researched it.

For what it's worth--- (If it matters) I will likely mostly be using typical 115 or less occasionally if I find them on sale 124.  Very rarely do I use 147 in 9mm except for the Winchester train and defend style FMJ/HPs that I picked up because  that was what I could find back when ammo was scarce in all calibers and I picked up a few boxes just to try it out.  I would probably run some of the FMJ through it just to see if it worked, but wouldn't be the main diet by any means.  
- typically I use 115 in any of the above that is the best price when I'm looking to buy it: Blazer Brass/PPU-Monarch brass/Remington UMC/Federal/Winchester bulk...  

Anyone else have thoughts on needing the shell deflector for occasional left handed shooting? A lot of the newer 9mm uppers I'm seeing are what I guess is called slick side - looks nice, but I just don't have experience with 9mm versions.  My understanding is that the extractor/ejector have more to do with ejection angle than a shell deflector but I don't really know.

well still waiting on PSA to ship lower to FFL... will give updates at some point.

Can I get a clarification on what barrel threads go on different calibers?  I'm seeing several numbers that I think were typos...

223/5.56  & 22lr   1/2 x 28
9mm also 1/2 x 28 but some 1/2 x 36?  
(in some post above I'm also seeing numbers like 1/2 x 38?  and another one that says 1/2 x 18?)
and that .308/7.62 are 5/8 x 24?

thanks.

I just saw Faxon is switching to all 1/2-28 for their 9mm barrels.

I had two 9mm barrels threaded 1/2-28, but finding a 9mm A1 or A2 style flash hider is sometimes like finding a unicorn.  9mm flash hiders threaded 1/2-36 are much easier to find.

So, I hesitate to ask this... but is it possible to get a .223/5.56 flash hider with 1/2 x 28 and drill it out?  I also wonder if finding a 9mm barrel with the right threads would be a problem...  However, as mentioned in previous post - it's somewhat unlikely that I'll get a suppressor anytime soon, but I would be nice to know that I have the right parts already on the rifle/pistol whatever it becomes from the get go.

- update - lower got shipped yesterday.  Not sure how long to get to FFL.   Was looking at PSA uppers- maybe just a standard A2 style carbine for now, but might go with a pistol first just because.   It might come down to what I find first in stock or have when the money starts burning a hole in my pocket again.

i use a slick sided upper on my Ar 9mm

Mines is a side charge but its also slick sided.. I think all Ar 9mm should be slick sided. it just looks much cleaner and goes with the flow of the Ar9. The dustcover/using a .223/556 upper looks kinda weird and  not fitting honestly and with the shell deflector it looks even weirder. thats why i went slick sided with my AR 9mm. Even my SBR ar15 is slick sided too.

I thought about drilling out a standard 1/2-28 flash hider, but the task looks pretty difficult.  The metal is pretty hard, and if you look into a flash hider from the muzzle end, you can just imagine the bit getting caught up in there and grabbing the thing and whipping it.  It's not un-doable, but it doesn't look casual, either.  Better have the proper set up.

As far as uppers go, I'm a bit of a stickler, and use only 9mm AR uppers, i.e. dust cover but no FA, then add a gas deflector and a "1/2" ejection door.  Just looks "right" to me.

Here's the upper I mean (on the right):

Attached File

I built a Rifle with my PSA Glock lower.  Since I'm left handed I needed an upper with a deflector so I went with a RRA 16" upper.  I had to order a hybrid BCG from Spinta Precision to work with the Glock lower/mags.  This rifle runs flawlessly and is as much fun to shoot as my MP5's are.  

Below is me shooting with 147gr, you can see how effective the deflector is for a lefty.

AR-9

For what it's worth I'm running one of Mad Macinists Macon Armory 9mm barrels in my Ar colt style and it runs like a top suppressed and not w 4" barrel...  I'd go w him all over.

cool, guys. thanks for the ideas.  My Lower came in today but I couldn't make it to ffl to pick it up.  I have a standard forged AR stripped upper that I was contemplating putting the deflector kit and short door on, but didn't know for sure if the ejection port needed to be modified. Somewhere I read that on the 9mm uppers they are making it larger, and the PSA upper that is already assembled (not sure you can get a stripped 9mm upper from them) is a slick side no deflector, fwd assist, or port cover.  Maybe it's just a standard slick side upper... I dont' know.

So, I'm still not too sure what to do.  PSA's 9mm uppers and barrels seem to mostly always be out of stock right now, so I may end up with something else.  But, after the lower, and all the other Christmas spending for family etc., the lower parts kit parts, buffer parts, and all may have to wait for a short time before being back on the Mad money list.  But I wanted the lower while it was on sale with free shipping and before any more politics change.   I do see now that PSA is selling a forged glock lower with last round bolt hold open for a little less than the billet one I ordered, but oh well.  This is really just my "because all my neighbors don't have one"/ I want something for kids to learn on/ shoot a little cheaper gun.  

Another question - does the PSA lower fit other caliber Glock magazines? like if you got a different bolt and barrel would it work with 40 S&W, or 45acp? Just curious. The PSA picture looked like it said "multi" on it rather than straight 9mm so I didn't know.  I'm not that familiar with other models of Glocks though I guess I should be. (which pretty much answers the question of whether it makes a difference to me if they fit or not, but I'd like to know in case I decide to spice up life again but keep the same lower.)

You need to check out jsesurplus and spinta precision.  They have good prices and complete 9mm kits or individual 9mm parts (receivers, barrels, bcg, parts, buffers, etc).  The PSA Glock lower will accept a G23 (40s&w) mag that I know for sure (I tried it).

(first a forum use question: is there a way to post pictures without linking to a URL? I'm not seeing one)

Thanks. I'll add them to my "Price check/inventory check" pages when I get ready (i.e. get money :) ) to do some more on build.
Picked up lower today. It looks pretty nice.  Now the hard part- pistol or rifle? leaning toward pistol first and seeing how I like it, but ultimately thinking it will end up as a 16 in carbine.  - yes, i know the standard reply = one of each !! And that would be great. eventually.  For now baby steps.

a.Lower parts kit
b.  buffer kit (probably pistol tube first so it's "officially" a pistol first - not that I think it will ever come up but if it does
c. figure out if complete upper is available or build -  
d. deal with bolt (if doesn't come with upper)
e. add more and bigger mags...

(not necessarily all in this order).

Let you know how it goes.

(update 1/3/16 - no real progress yet.  Got to pay off some Christmas bills then get back to this.  Found a local shop with some good prices so I'm going to chat with them about bolts/receivers, etc.  I haven't checked Mad Machinists Macon Armory yet, but will before purchasing- need to decide pistol or carbine still. let you know when things get moving.)

It appears you used a spa lower as well. Would you mind sharing what barrel, upper and bcg you used? I don't want to run into any compatibility issues and I am (possibly wrongly) assuming any upper and barrel will work, what about carrier?

Thx! Just got my psa block lower.

ETA looks like the spartan lrbho which I was thinking of. Any reliability issues with that little spring hook? How do you drop the bolt? Thanks! Z

These guys http://www.max-11.com/ have a few options for muzzle devices in 1/2 x 28/  I bought the A1 type and the Bull Nose Thread Protector, 1/2-28 Thread as well.

Bull nose
 

A1

So, I finally got the lower kit and buffer tube on.  Still need to figure out buffer weight - PSA only offers one 9mm buffer and I can't seem to figure out how heavy it is.
Also, I need to find an upper/barrel assembly and 9mm bolt in stock at PSA I suppose.  
Thinking about going with the 10 inch barrel.  I did get a chance to shoot a friend's pair of 5.56 pistols 10 in and 7 (I think) and liked the ergonomics of the longer barrel both had the angle foregrips.
*



It's not quite unique and looks lonely without the upper... but eventually we'll find it a friend (mate?)
I did get what I thought would be a bit nicer Pistol grip but I actually like the old A2 style better on this.  May eventually go with Magpul MOE or something of that sort but first thing is to start raiding couches looking for coins for the upper

have had a lot going on in life these last couple months... but thought I'd post an update.
PSA seem to have discontinued the A2 look alike upper/barrel/sight/handguard that I was really considering just because I like the classic look of the A2... so I opted for sticking with the pistol option.
so I found this upper in stock and got it in last week... (though it's now on sale for Easter cheaper than it's been in about 9 months of watching their "Sales"... but oh well), I guessed wrong on "lowest" price they would go on it... I like the 10 inch barrel for ergonomics when I used a friends 5.56 pistol. I'll look into getting an angle foregrip and thumb stop at some point, probably also add a sig brace or the blade as well in the future, if I like it as a pistol.  I figure I can use the same upper and rail for a carbine length barrel and add actual stock if not for minimal effort and cost.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=516444990

Have not had a chance to take it to the range yet, but will soon.  I also haven't quite settled on a proper buffer for it, but hope to pick one up locally if possible.

One more question: If it doesn't have a last round bolt hold open, do i really need to worry about "spacers" or quarters since the main point of those seems to be to keep it from sheering the bolt catch?  
Thanks. Will post link to pic when I have a chance to upload it.

can anyone offer help with this question:

One more question: If it doesn't have a last round bolt hold open, do i really need to worry about "spacers" or quarters since the main point of those seems to be to keep it from sheering the bolt catch?



All I have left to get is the 9mm buffer... PSA has one but it doesn't seem to be as heavy or long as some of the solid stainless ones.

thanks

No, but if you find that the spring tension is too weak, you can use also the quarters to slightly increase compression, that's usually a secondary effect however.

ok, thanks.
I have to get a buffer in still going to start with the 5-6 oz range. May go up to 7 if need be later. I'm trying to get it from a local shop but they have to order it. It's a CMMG Mk9 Carbine Buffer (90CA9B4).  I'm aching to go shoot this thing. so I'll post some pics and update as soon as I do.

For now has standard carbine buffer.
Picked up a cheap red dot and got a BCM detachable carry handle and a troy fixed front sight in a trade of sorts.   Not sure if I want irons or red dot on it yet.  Plus a magpul AFG for the m-lok rail.

Eventually I might try to bling it out a little more, but at this point I just want it to function.

RANGE REPORT:     --- if anyone out there still cares--- (I know it's been a while for this project to get from buying lower to range testing)

as you can see, so far so good.
Finally had a chance to take the set up to the range and it worked flawlessly from the perspective of "pull the trigger, go bang, eject, load pull the trigger"  166 rounds of various brands of FMJ range ammo through the "SGM" 33 round Glock mags.  Plan to go back out for some more when I have some time to the outdoor 50 yard range and see about some "real groups"  and get the sights zeroed in better. ended up using a lot of the ammo I took in the rentals as well and since no issues feeding, firing or ejecting, I figured it was good to go for now.

only issue is that is it a little "Twangy" on the recoil but I was still using the standard carbine spring and buffer (more on that in a few min).

Using an A2 DCH and trading off with a cheap red dot and it all worked well.

Pics of/with upper: (still can't figure out how to post pics in the thread... but for what it's worth)  EDIT: gun is cleared and mag empty - didn't think about charging handle to lock hammer back to put on safe for pics... please forgive my lack of attention to detail in taking the pictures as they originally were only for myself- but I thought I'd let you know I noticed when posting here that it does kind of look "wrong"...)









(had to break into 3 posts)

(Cont)

Pics comparison to some range rentals: (you'll notice a Marlin 795/CZ Scorpion EVO3 (I believe)/KRISS Vector (9mm w/ Sig Brace))
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ZzGc4v7NMKc3hWanktRkhVdTQ
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ZzGc4v7NMKQzcwZDJqWUN2TG8

(please forgive that the AR9 is not on safe in pics-  The lack of LRBHO kind of disrupted my normal habit of putting on safe before setting down since it would fire and as you know the AR doesn't go on safe if hammer isn't back-- When I locked the bolt back it didn't immediately realize that I didn't then put on safe. I assure you it was always pointed down range and empty when on the table with the bolt locked back...I put on safe after pics, but didn't really think about retaking them at that point... Only thought about it looking "wrong" when starting to post them here...)

and some preliminary pics of targets:
20 rounds carefully aimed but still off hand at the "8" @ 10-11 yards--
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ZzGc4v7NMKSlFLSG9JN2RDNkk

15 rounds each more rapid fire (but at max distance of 15 yards on this range) with Red-dot and then A2 DCH:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ZzGc4v7NMKbWxYS2hPR2dvYU0
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ZzGc4v7NMKS24tc1JlUEowcnM

(Cont 2)

And now back to the buffer: Bear in mind this was with a "Budget no name pistol lower parts kit".  I'm curious if anyone has opinions as to why the spring would have been jamming the buffer into the stop this hard, and what I could do to minimize or fix it.  I'm assuming that it's because with the lighter weight buffer it's just getting pushed too far back and then stopping abruptly? As best I can tell there isn't any play between the back of the bolt and the buffer when upper and lower are together.  I cut some rubber hose to put in the spring to keep buffer/bolt from coming back more than about 1/16 to 1/8 inch from bolt catch but that was after shooting - have not tried again since (Keep in mind this lower/upper combo does not have LRBHO so it doesn't seem like it's that important from the aspect of breaking the catch.) But I thought maybe the buffer is just getting too much momentum all the same.  





Thanks for your help and suggestions.  I think for now I'm going to keep it as a pistol, maybe invest in the KAK blade or Sig Brace at some point- and will probably get the CMMG mk9 buffer since I can get it local pretty easy.  Any other thoughts?

Few things you can do....

Get a longer heavier buffer....or adjustable buffer if you can get to 7oz or so.

Kinetic or hydraulic buffer assembly.


 Cheapest options.....

If your current buffer is standard length, and you just want to spend a few bucks, go get an NFA buffer bumper and a high quality spring.

 If you reload, use a less powerful ammo.


AND...all your pics are small green boxes and failed to load. Check your [url] or [img] tags or maybe your links or something else.


.

Thanks- about the buffer question, I figured that was most likely the answer, just wasn't sure since it seemed like it was a problem on the return and I didn't know if a heavier one would just hit the stop harder...

I don't currently reload 9mm. I'm saving brass though just in case.

On the pics - Thanks for the feed back... sorry, on my screen they show up as red html links that you have to click on... not sure how to remedy the issue. Maybe, I'll just turn them back to links and not as "Insert image" and see if that helps.   Maybe they're too large and need to be scaled down? I'll try that also.

trying again on pics... can't seem to get them to display.  I see them in the preview mode on the forum editor, but they don't show up when I submit... they seem to open in a new window ok - not ideal but I guess the only other option is to find a different web hosting site.

I've read elsewhere on the forum users with under 50 posts cannot post photos to the site, just links to them.  start posting i guess lol.  I've got some work to do there as well…

Well that would make sense based on the fact that I'm seeing them in the preview but they don't show up in the posts...  (I suppose this is number 20.)

I guess I need to start asking some more questions.  Maybe I need to hop over to the Dedicated Rimfire AR threads and ask some questions there.

A few more notes that I forgot to add on the build: (upper bought from PSA in one piece just added sights and angled fore-grip)

Lower assy notes:
Very easy to install bolt catch with threaded allen screw (built in from mfg)- I'm not sure if a standard roll pin would go in it's place or not.
Obviously the mag release was already part of the lower, trigger guard was milled as one piece with lower as well, and pistol grip and was not an issue.
SGM brand mags as well as the couple of magpul Glock mags I've tried seem to fit well and fall free.  

Not so easy:
1. The Piviot pin was a pain.  I've done other forged lowers with relative ease but this one was very tight. I don't know if it was from the shape of the lower- maybe original hole wasn't drilled far enough? but I took it back out and snipped off a few coils (maybe 3-5) so that the pivot pin would be workable with stong pressure from a thumb or light tap with plastic punch.  It still locks up very tight.
2. The take down detent would not fit easily with the supplied hex screw to without snipping off a few coils.  For now, I just installed it as a normal lower and saved hex screw in case I change out the buffer tube. Rear take down pin works ok, and also has a very tight lock up when all put together but is able to be pushed out with strong thumb pressure.

general notes:
3. The safety selector was tight when the standard A2 pistol grip was added, but after working it back and forth a while, I got it broken in where it feels better.  I don't think this was PSA's issue but rather the LPK that I used that came with the Ambi Safety.  I had to loosen the hex screw on it enough so that it wasn't too tight, then put a dab of blue locktight and a small center punch peen in to it.  Now works very well.  I don't anticipate changing it any time soon.
4. Lower has the tension screw under the grip handle.  I think I bottomed it out but can't tell if it helped since the upper already fit tight to the lower.

FWIW:

I have two 9mm AR builds, one 16", one 4" w/flash can (PSA upper). One is a colt smg pattern w/Hahn block, the other a PSA glock mag lower. Was purchased complete so I can't offer any tips on assembly.

Glock mags come in two sizes, small frame for 9mm/.40/.357sig and large frame for .45acp/10mm. PSA does have a large frame mag lower (.45acp) as well.

The blast deflector is optional. My 16" has one, my 4" does not. Most of the blowback I get comes thru the charge handle so if that's an issue a handle with a gas lip or a side charger would do it.

My 4" upper runs an 8.5 oz dedicated length buffer and it runs fine, including subs. Doesn't have the LRHO on the lower but a dedicated length buffer or buffer + spacer still runs smoother with no overtravel.

Thanks. NO worries on build info... I kind of already learned the hard way :) but it wasn't really that hard just a little difference because of the hex screws that hold in the rear pin spring and for some reason the forward pivot pin was giving me fits when I tried to redo it.  I got it in the first time but it was so tight I wanted to smooth down the detent and make sure the pin was ok, then couldn't hardly get it back in without snipping it a little... anyway I have a spare opps kit with some extra springs if I decide it's not working for some reason.

I didn't really notice any blowback - but only shot right handed- it's a 10in barrel with the KAK Flash Can muzzle device. (came with that from PSA- I doubt I'll change it for now unless the hearing protection stuff actually gets passed).

I think I do need a heavier buffer - and on that note now that PSA is also making the 45 glock mag AR (which would probably be more "tactical" however one of my main goals was fun and cheaper to shoot than 223/5.56).  They (PSA) have also started making/selling two heavier buffers than their original "AR9" buffer that I think I read somewhere was about 4.5-5 oz (But don't quote me on that).  
I put in a "make shift spacer in the buffer tube that fits inside the spring (thinking that way it wouldn't put even more pressure on the buffer retainer pin going forward, but I haven't had a chance to fire it again since then.  Over all I was quite pleased with it - I'm thinking of adding the sig-brace or KAK blade at some point but have to save up and quit spending on other "project lowers" and parts :)

I had a chance to put 130 or so rounds through it with the "spacer" and it seems to run just fine. (spacer is a rolled up piece of 1 in dia automobile heater hose about 3/4 in long with a slit cut in the side stuffed into the spring. It's just short enough for the bolt to lock back when needed).  I like the A2 sight ok but I have noticed that others who are not as familiar with the M-16 platform seem to have trouble twisting their head around the pistol tube trying to find the sight picture.  It works well for them to have a red dot on it in stead to give some flexibility to their cheek weld. --- I mention this as I wanted the 9mm for my kids to shoot so it wasn't so long as the carbine for them to hold in the front... making it an SBR would be great, but I don't want to deal with that paperwork right now -- maybe someday.

Quick up date: I picked up a KVP (Kaw Valley Precision) 7.5 oz buffer from Righttobeararms.com for a good sale price and free shipping with some other items.  Looking forward to trying it out during labor day and hope to have a good report. 

Depends on what firearm and country of origin.  For example, a lot of FN-FAL types (real imports or kit builds) can be 9/16 or 11/16 x24 LEFT hand threaded, etc.  Or stated in metric measurement, etc.

I have never used a spacer.  I have shot an Oly and a Colt style 9mm with M4 stock for tens of thousands of rounds with no issues.  My Colt style RRA upper runs well with a Spikes ST-T2 buffer.  It did not like the 9mm solid buffer at all. 

Ok, thanks.  I'm keeping the one i've been using in the bag as well - no real issues with function but it's pretty twangy without a spacer with the carbine buffer. Also it was beating the end of the buffer up against the pin on the stop plunger/retainer (not sure what that part is called exactly- but the part that the tube holds down in the lower) so I decided to try the other one. I figure and hope that it might get better based on some online reviews using the glock mag lower with a shorter barrel.  If not I got a good deal on it so will post it somewhere for sale and try a standard heavy buffer (or either the PSA or CMMG "9mm" one - I think they are around 5 oz.)  

I just received my 10” 9mm upper from PSA and was waiting for a 9mm pistol lower to come back in stock. Finally found it at PSA and learned they won’t ship it “preassembled” to my state. I ended up cancelling the order and buying a stripped PSA lower instead. I bought a brace and a 9mm extended buffer from KAK. I need to purchase a Lower Parts Kit. I have seen the Allen screw in all the builds on YouTube and even mentioned here. Is that a proprietary PSA thing? Also I have read about issues with certain trigger hammers and the hybrid 9mm bolt from PSA. Any recommendations on a LPK that will work (both the trigger issue and the Allen screw issue). Thanks in advance!!

One more try for the pics - I put the main ones I was trying to post above here - (It seems that there may be something to the 50+ post before new members can post inline pics...) 

(EDIT: For what it's worth... gun is cleared and mag empty - didn't think about charging handle to lock hammer back to put on safe for pics... please forgive my lack of attention to detail in taking the pictures as they originally were only for myself- but I thought I'd let you know I noticed when posting here that it does kind of look "wrong"...) 







Pics comparison to some range rentals: (you'll notice a Marlin 795/CZ Scorpion EVO3 (I believe)/KRISS Vector (9mm w/ Sig Brace)) 




I've since put a sig brace (the original style) on it and love it a lot better than the foam tube cover. I think even though it adds a little weight it balances it out better and give a better cheek weld when using A2 Carry handle.  I'm not sure that will stay with the AR9 though as I do really like shooting it with a red-dot.  (may just look for one of the A2 style sights that doesn't have the carry handle and go with a red-dot at some point. 

Pics from above post on buffer issue (I think I fixed this by smoothing out the edge of the buffer retainer about 1mm and cutting a small notch (i.e. flat spot) in the larger diameter portion of the retainer so that the buffer can move freely a little further and make contact with the bolt when the upper and lower are attached.  I'll have to past more info on that at a later date.

I can't speak for other builds, but my stripped lower came with the allen screw for the bolt release lever and one for the rear take down pin detent.  I think that many other styles might tap the hole for the allen screw (a couple aero precision standard 223/556 lowers I've worked with have the treads, but didn't come with the screw), but I don't really know for sure.   

I think the "hybrid" bolt doesn't have anything to do with the trigger/hammer but whether it fits colt style or glock style magazines. As best I can tell it's a ramped bolt that should work with any milspec style hammer. I think some of the issues might be from people who are trying to do extreme rapid fire and end up pulling the trigger faster than the bolt can reseat or something.

I used a cheap no name, but supposed to be mil spec style lower parts kit that came with ambi-safety and extended take down pins (the have an extra "bulb" head with a groove that's supposed to make them easier to pull out).  Originally I was going to store the upper and lower separate in a small range bag, that would require me to take it apart each time, but now found that a small 10/22 style rifle case works great.   I wasn't worried about super rapid fire, or extreme precision so I just put in low cost parts.  So far so good on the lower parts.  I think as long as you have a mil spec style hammer face (not the notched one) it should work ok.  

(NOTE on the allen screw and detent pin springs:  I had to trim the spring by about the same amount as the allen key for the detent spring to get it to go back in.  (I think I took off between 1/16th and 1/8th of the spring.  I just trimmed a bit and it still seemed a little too snug to get started so I trimmed a little more.  the allen key went in easy so I just left it. Didn't take it back out to measure.  I did also trim about a 16th off the from detent spring as well just to make the pin a little less tight.)