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Posted: 4/1/2006 1:18:59 PM EDT
Has any one tried graphite powder with there ceiner kit. Not really sure if this would be a good Idea or not . Mine seems to gum up the bolt really fast and I was wondering if a dry type lube might be a option instead of a petroleum based lube...Thanks for any help
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 2:57:17 AM EDT
It's worth a try. I agree that oil just attracts and holds the crud.
I struggled to get my unit broken in as I broke a fireing pin about 6 or 700 rounds into break in. it took me about 500 more rounds before I figgured out that my actual problem was the fireing pin.
When I had the unit apart to replace the pin (you have to tap out a roll pin ) I spent some time polishing anything that slid or rubbed anyhing else.
What I have been useing with great results (mind you I am completley broke in and polished up) is plain silicone spray. I start with a whistle clean unit and just soak the heck out of it a couple of times,working the slide back and forth as it dries. After shooting a bunch I will spray it down a couple more times (unit out of gun but still asembled)to both add more silicone and flush off some dirt. I can go 1000 rounds between major cleaning,I generally resilicone before a match or when reliability starts to drop off and the respray usually gets me running fine. I shoot all kinds of cheep junky ammo and lots of standard vel stuff as I find better accuracy with it.
Takes a while to get a Ceiner running happy but they are a thing of beauty when they do.
Some day when I have some free time I have always wanted to try some type of cobbed up "sheild" to fit around the hammer to keep some of the blowback junk out of the trigger group!
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 5:40:11 AM EDT
Graphite lubes are not recommended for use on aluminum due to corrosion issues.
I use a thin coat of Mobil 1 or Tetra Gun oil and after 300 to 500 rounds just wipe her down relube and go some more. The bolt & chamber adapter faces are in need of a "degunking" by this time anyway regardless of the type of lube used on the rails.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 7:08:38 AM EDT
The various sprays that use super-fine silicone particles, and then the lube carrier evaporates, leaving behind a whitish, powdery silicone lube, work great. I think grease or oil is sometimes worse than dry, because the darned petroleum lubes gunk up soooo easily with powder fouling.

Try this - spray the hell out of the bolt and rails (outside the gun) with brake cleaner. This will strip almost all of the oils out of the unit. then hit it lightly with the silicone sprays. Works good for me. The brake cleaner is a good method to blast fouling and greases from nooks and crannies.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 8:33:04 AM EDT
I use a very light coat of TW-25B on the metal to metal contact points of the ciener kit and never have crud related stopages.

I have shot 2000 rounds in one sitting without cleaning or failure. You might want to give it a try.
Link Posted: 4/3/2006 11:46:36 AM EDT
I'm in the process of trying some moly lube on the rails. Put it on work it in and wipe it off. It seems to have smoothed things up a bit, and not have collected too my grit.
Link Posted: 4/4/2006 4:03:05 PM EDT
Thanks Guys

Right now I am in the process of trying Mobile 1 and I have TW-25B and moly lube on order and I am going see wich one works the best for me. Thanks again you guys are a wealth of Information that I could not do with out.
Link Posted: 4/4/2006 8:09:01 PM EDT
Also to add,

Get yourself a lakeside guns recoil spring. That will solve many of your reliability issues with the ciener kit as well.
Link Posted: 4/10/2006 10:11:58 AM EDT
what are the reliability issues every one keeps talking about i have three ciener kits and have not had any problems other 1 firing pin after about 4 years of use i also have found toyota high-performance penetrating lubricant it has worked well for me
Link Posted: 4/10/2006 5:28:36 PM EDT
Sorry guys I should have Explained this a little better. there was never a FTF or a Missfire but after a hundred rounds(my first hundred with this set up)while making sure the chamber was empty after the last round was fired the Bolt was sticking and I had to either jiggle the charging handle or give it a lite tap to get the bolt to close. again it never failed to fire even with this sticking problem but it was a little touchy to get the next mag to chamber a round but once it did it worked great.
My first concern was that the powder residue was gumming every thing up. Oh and this is a used Ciener kit in a brand new KKF upper.(and I really do like this upper). I started this tread to get some pointers on how you guys get the best performance out of your ciener and how you lube them not to complain about it .
Ok next I cleaned it up and put alittle Mobile 1 on the Ciener and Mil-comm on everything also but it is still a tad sticky. not so much as the bolt will not close but just drags a little when pulled all the way back. Is this just Break in to the new upper?

P.S. I do not ease the bolt back I pull the charging handle back with a loaded mag and as they say let it FLY. Is this the correct procedure?
Link Posted: 4/10/2006 8:34:07 PM EDT
yes that is right just pull and let go i have not had the problem you are discribing it my just be a bit of grim from the gun powder
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