So I just read the thread. Have you fired this rifle? A couple members asked but I did not see the response or I missed it.

The buffer tube is from the threads not being turned down properly. I would have just bought a new buffer tube.

I’ve seen this only on chicom buffer tubes. That rail I’m positive I’ve seen on DH gate

I would worry about function over form then address any aesthetic issues you have with the gun.

I guarantee that charging handle is one of those Chinese Raptor ripoffs.

After you get your scope mounted and zeroed shoot it with some good ammo (Black Hills, Federal Gold Medal Match, etc. ) off a solid rest with good bench technique.  If the barrel delivers, everything else is easily upgraded, replaced, repaired if you wear something out, develop a different preference, or get upgrade fever.

Consider this a good educational experience on that shop puffing up their offerings, and you are likely now more discerning for future acquisitions all around.

We’ve all been there.  Run the crap out of that gun to either get confidence in it, fix what’s deficiencies arise, or side line it.

It shoots fine, but it is the only AR I've ever owned so I don't have much to compare it to.

No it's not, it came with a standard charging handle and a buddy of mine was kind enough to gift me one of the Geissele super charging handles. Not like this rifle probably deserves it...

I would look at the G ch as your firsf up grade , you said you had a aero buffer tube coming 2nd upgrade. Your bcg looked gtg. Next I'd suggest zeroing and grouping the rifle see how it shoots , if

Everything runs well . Look at upgrading your rail. Best bang for your buck is Larue lat or sat rail literally 10 bucks a inch on a very sturdy rail. Next I'd look at upgrading your trigger again larue has

There mbt 2s triggers for 89 bucks. There nice triggers , if you have the money geissele triggers are my choice but i wait for sales over 200 for a trigger is a bit much. Personally i would look at it

As a project your receivers are good , bcg good, buffer tube will be good , and just build from there. If you have any questions about how to uninstall or install parts just post it up . Most on

Here are very helpful just ignore the rest.

I'm not sure about the BCG tbh, but from what I've gathered it's just an Anderson arms. I really don't have the money for any more upgrades ATM, but definitely in the future. I also got a Magpul K2+ grip and an ACS stock to go on my new buffer tube. I think the trigger is probably milspec, I haven't shot too many other ARs but it's trigger seems about the same as all the M16A4's and M4A1's I've shot. Not bad, just normal. My main concern is durability TBH. At this point the next thing will probably be the ugly ass rail. I'd much prefer an Mlok at this point. And some DIY paint probably.

Over the holiday I got a streamlight light/laser combo and pretty nice PA 1-6x raptor FFP LPVO which I will be zeroing soon. I suppose by the time I replace all this stuff I'll have enough backup parts to make an entire extra rifle. That's how this goes isn't it?

Haha absolutely it does , everytime i buy a spare bcg it becomes a rifle in a month or so. I think your bcg is a AO precision carrier at the least there a solid company. Im of the same mind when

It comes to reliability.  Best advice is take it slow research your parts and be willing to spend a little more for a better product. For example alot of guys have had great success with psa i have

Not so i stay away . Psa will fix the problems i just dont like the back and forth for me its more trouble than its worth. Last build i went with centurion arms and the barrel cost about what a

complete upper from psa would cost . The barrel was well worth it shoots great , gassed perfectly, pinned gas block , keyed gas block . Nice score on the pa scope ive got a downgrade from yours

And still like it alot. Keep your eyes open on here people post deals going on and ee has some good stuff just gotta sort threw.

That barrel is a PSA (Palmetto State Armory) nitride barrel no doubt in my mind.

Decent quality, but in no way "high end".

Yeah! the PA LPVO is really nice, I got the raptor on a black Friday sale for around $300, couldn't be happier. I put it on a Burris AR P.E.P.R QD scope mount. My ACS stock storage will allow me to keep spare button batteries that the LPVO uses.

Nice catch! I'm not sure if that font is common or not, but after looking up some images of PSA barrels, they use the exact same font and text as what's on mine. It may be a standardized barrel text and font, I don't know but that's probably what it is. Also, the flash hider looks exactly the same as well. Thanks a ton for letting me know what it is.

I know the rifle wasn't going to be something crazy amazing, since $700 is not really that much for an AR. I just was hoping that I didn't get ripped off and that it was at least made with decent quality parts. From what I've seen so far, it seems like it's about what I expected. Parts that aren't super fancy but are generally good quality and durable. It does help ease my mind a bit. Although the rail... really not sure about that one lol.

Check these out there a very solid option especially at the price.https://www.larue.com/products/larue-lokpicatinny-handguards/

I wouldn't be surprised if most parts were ordered from aliexpress

Sounds like things are functioning well so at this point, put it behind you and enjoy the crap out of that rifle. Trust me, I've bought "too good to pass up" stuff that was unfunctional junk. You're already ahead of the game and in 10 years, that $100 +/- isn't going to mean a thing.

And congrats on the PA scope. I have that same one and love it. Will be looking for another soon.

how does the rifle function and how does it shoot?  you've had it for a year or so it sounds like, so you should be able to identify if it has had any issues in function.  You should be able to identify how well the barrel shoots with good ammo.

Looks like you paid $700 for a $350 rifle.

Give it a few years and you’ll be able to make money on it.

It doesn't make sense to sell it now since the market is currently soft (especially for no name builds) and you'll take a big loss on it.

Just leave it as is, shoot the snot out of it, put $20 into a jar each week, and buy/build a quality rifle during the end of year sales.

Or...

Since election uncertainty is approaching, break out the credit card, buy what you want now, and sell that rifle if/when the panic starts.

Edit: Disregard this. Can't figure out how to delete.

I had the same stock/ tube thread issue with a budget carbine buffer I got from JoeBobs for a build a couple years ago.
I double checked to make sure I had milspec size tube and stock, and they were.
The threads were correct, but the points of the threads were very sharp and ,like another poster said,  looked like they needed turned down because they were a little high.  
I thought about doing the stock, but didnt want to get wobble, so I elected to just hit the threads that stuck out of the receiver very lightly with a file and it fixed the issue.  
Not something you should have to deal with with some gunsmiths "custom build" of course, but it did fix it for me

Yeah, the threads *should* have been turned at the end to make them stick out less. Most legit buffer tubes are like that. I actually think I found out what brand was used for the buffer and rail. It's the same one. Its not good, they've even shilled here before.

I think it's Tiger Rock and their shit is questionable and I'm pissed as hell that this brand is on my rifle. I'm praying the rail and buffer are the ONLY two pieces from this company on my rifle.

There is no telling what shit parts they put on it.

You said it was an Anderson lower correct?

I NEVER entertain buying a rifle built on an Anderson lower!

And this is coming from someone who loves PSA! (That's why I recognized the barrel immediately.)

I don't understand people who buy a complete parts kit from PSA or some other vendor and then build it on an Anderson lower!

For $10 more you can have an all matching rifle if you would just order your lower from PSA!

(I think this may be because people order their parts kits online and pick up an in stock lower at the LGS because they don't know how to go about ordering it themselves.)

I have never seen anything but the lowest level ebay/wish/amazon Chinese shit on an Anderson build.

It has always been a good indicator to me that whoever built the rifle didn't give a shit about quality in the least and slapped the absolute cheapest garbage on the thing they could to get it built out.

They're trying to make a quick buck off of people new to the AR world by throwing around terms like 'mil-spec' and 'made with quality mil-spec parts'.
More correct would be mil-spec DIMENTIONS, but they won't advertise that. Off all the parts on that gun claimed to be mil-spec, probably very few of them are.
Mil-spec is standard of dimentions, assembly procedures/practices AND materials. Most guns aren't fully mil-spec, but some manufacturers actually get the materials and assembly procedures correct.(LMT, Colt, FN, BCM, Noveske, Daniel Defense, Spikes, etc)

Barrel- 4150cmv chrome-lined-HP/MPI after HP proof load, 1/7 twist
Bolt/Carrier- C158 shot peened, HP/MP tested/marked, tool steel extractor, 8620 steel phosphate carrier, 8620 cam pin, chrome lined gas key and chamber, 4140 gas key with grade 8 staked fasteners
7075-t6 forged buffer tube, dry film lubed interior, staked castle nut.
Every part of the gun has certain requirements, not necessarily the best, but a standard.

You most likely got a 4140 unlined or nitrided barrel, not mil-spec. Probably a 9310 bolt, carrier with no chrome lining(probably an Anderson)- not mil-spec. Probably a 6061 extruded buffer tube and carbine buffer- not mil-spec.
(Completely guessing here, these builds are generally some variation of this)
This could go on and on. These little things add up, which is why you pay a little more for a base Colt or LMT etc. Some people are ok paying for this small premium for peace of mind and not having to buy new shit after the initial purchase.
Does this mean your gun won't run and run? No, not at all. Will the parts wear quicker than a Colt 6920, probably yes. It's probably not quite as reliable. But that's fine for most people. If you really want, call them out on this stuff. Ask them what exactly is mil-spec that they sold you, other than dimensions and receiver material.

I did the same as you, more than once when I bought my first and second AR's. DPMS- Carrier key came loose. Broken extractor. Eventually broken bolt. 2nd bargain gun- roll pin literally walked out of the buffer, gouged the buffer tube and almost locked it up. Didn't learn my lesson- bought a DPMS 308. 1st outing-case heads ripped off brass it was so over gassed. Roll pin walked out of the ejector and it was lost. Eventually broken extractor.
Headache, heavier spring, a5 tube and h3 buffer it nod runs pretty good. Lessons learned, now I just save for what I actually want- buy once, cry once.

I have one PSA pistol that was factory built. Had to go back to them 3 times and then they replaced the whole gun. I have 4 other rifles that I did everything myself. Guess what? Not a single problem. 2 of these are done on a Anderson lower. The lowers are not junk. Better than a few RRA I have had. It all depends on what parts you use to put them together.

I needed a buffer tube quickly one time to replace one and ended up with some weird chiciom deal that was like that.  My issue was that it was threaded like 2 inches too long.  It was really weird.

Agreed, it’s a psa barrel almost 100% sure.

OP post pics of the bolt carrier, trigger assembly and take your stock of
and post pic of your buffer tube.

Looks like you got ripped, but it could have been much worse.

It might shoot decent moa but from what I’ve seen it’s not a
buy it for life kind of rifle. More along the lines of a Plinker.

If your interested I got a Magpul str stock in box that I’d be willing
to sell you for what I got it for. Buy your self a new buffer tube from
the sound of it and I think your buffer tube/stock fuckery problem
would be solved.

...I think I'm somewhere around 1k on this Poverty Pony...



But I'm fairly retarded. Also probably wouldn't consider buying a rifle with an Anderson lower unless it was dirt cheap. Like maybe 100 bucks more than the cost of a new reciever set.

Its commercial extensions that have the angles end. Milspec are flat

Aero and AO Precisin are two different companies...

That's why I build instead of buy. I can't afford to buy the nicer AR's and the cheaper ones always have a couple features that I just don't like. So I build what I can afford. Four so far and every one has shot OK with no issues. Only parts issue I had was an Anderson lower - they don't thread the grip screw hole all the way so I had to run to the hardware store and get a shorter screw. I did finally break down today and order a Daniel Defense DDM4V7 upper assembly. I want at least one with a pedigree of dead-nuts long term reliability. It will go on a home built lower though, probably a color filled Spike's Snowflake (if you haven't seen one, they're hysterical) with an ALG-ACT trigger and Rogers stock. Putting together an AR isn't some big mystery like some make it out to be. As long as you use parts from a reputable mfg ,get them from a reputable dealer, and pay attention to what you're doing there's not much that can go wrong. I look at it this way - if I can do it then almost anyone should be able to.