Original AR-15 Router Jig by 5D Tactical | Universal 80% Lower Jig - Page 5

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Original AR-15 Router Jig by 5D Tactical | Universal 80% Lower Jig (Page 5 of 5)

Posted: 7/14/2017 1:37:58 PM EDT

[#1]

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Quoted:
UPDATE on Polymer80 308 LOWER in the 5D Tactical!

So I did get the Polymer80 308 to fit, but it did require me to slightly dremel down both of the upper sides of the lower so the side plates would fit. Once I got that done the lower fit perfectly and milling polymer was a snap. I did find that a lower router speed helped to keep it from getting 2 warm (was trying to avoid any melting). My cut came out super nice (sry no pics till I find a replacement for PhotoBucket). I have yet to put parts into it or get an upper (other projects ahead of it), but I will get around to that sometime soon. The bottom line is that with a minor "mod" it works just fine on a 5D Tactical 308 Jig! Thanks again to everyone at 5D Tactical! You have made making 80% lowers fun and practical.

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Thanks for the feedback!

Posted: 7/14/2017 5:59:53 PM EDT

[#2]

Anyone else have trouble with the crossbolt at the bottom of the jig - holding the left & right sides together at the bottom? My first receiver I had to fiddle with the sides a bit, loosen the drill guide screws and then it went in. My second receiver was a nightmare - ended up taking the whole jig completely back to pieces, applying a whole lot of cussing, and eventually got the bolt to seat

For grins I tried removing the second receiver and immediately attempting to seat that bolt - no joy. I don't see how the jig can stay together between receivers given the amount of fiddling I'm having to do with that bolt - maybe it's just me, but dang.

Darn 8" Harbor Freight drill press didn't have enough travel and height to clear the jig to do the initial drilling so I carefully went by hand.... That worked fine on the first unit, but as I was finishing the 3/8" starter hole on the second I realized I'd wallowed out the guide - DOH! Worse I apparently got the 5/16 hole off too - so there's a nurgle in my trigger slot.

#^%$!%^@$! I guess I needed a bigger and better drill press and shoulda bailed until I had one

On the plus side, this jig makes the milling WAY easier than others I've seen/tried though. Now I kinda wish it had replaceable drill guide bushings 'cuz apparently I'm an idiot.

Also, the dust collector attachment for the DWP611 works pretty well - still get a lot of chips, put probably 50-75% of them go up the vac - so I rate that a win at least.

Posted: 7/19/2017 4:39:24 PM EDT

[#3]

Quote History

Quoted:
Anyone else have trouble with the crossbolt at the bottom of the jig - holding the left & right sides together at the bottom? My first receiver I had to fiddle with the sides a bit, loosen the drill guide screws and then it went in. My second receiver was a nightmare - ended up taking the whole jig completely back to pieces, applying a whole lot of cussing, and eventually got the bolt to seat

For grins I tried removing the second receiver and immediately attempting to seat that bolt - no joy. I don't see how the jig can stay together between receivers given the amount of fiddling I'm having to do with that bolt - maybe it's just me, but dang.

Darn 8" Harbor Freight drill press didn't have enough travel and height to clear the jig to do the initial drilling so I carefully went by hand.... That worked fine on the first unit, but as I was finishing the 3/8" starter hole on the second I realized I'd wallowed out the guide - DOH! Worse I apparently got the 5/16 hole off too - so there's a nurgle in my trigger slot.

#^%$!%^@$! I guess I needed a bigger and better drill press and shoulda bailed until I had one

On the plus side, this jig makes the milling WAY easier than others I've seen/tried though. Now I kinda wish it had replaceable drill guide bushings 'cuz apparently I'm an idiot.

Also, the dust collector attachment for the DWP611 works pretty well - still get a lot of chips, put probably 50-75% of them go up the vac - so I rate that a win at least.

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Thanks for the feedback, let us know if there's anything you need from us.

Posted: 7/19/2017 7:26:57 PM EDT

[#4]

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Quoted:
Thanks for the feedback, let us know if there's anything you need from us.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Anyone else have trouble with the crossbolt at the bottom of the jig - holding the left & right sides together at the bottom? My first receiver I had to fiddle with the sides a bit, loosen the drill guide screws and then it went in. My second receiver was a nightmare - ended up taking the whole jig completely back to pieces, applying a whole lot of cussing, and eventually got the bolt to seat

For grins I tried removing the second receiver and immediately attempting to seat that bolt - no joy. I don't see how the jig can stay together between receivers given the amount of fiddling I'm having to do with that bolt - maybe it's just me, but dang.

Thanks for the feedback, let us know if there's anything you need from us.

@5DTactical - I at least need to order a new drill guide from you (my fault). Do my crossbolt problems sound typical? Am I an idiot or is it possible my jig is a little wonky?

Posted: 7/25/2017 1:47:46 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:

@5DTactical - I at least need to order a new drill guide from you (my fault). Do my crossbolt problems sound typical? Am I an idiot or is it possible my jig is a little wonky?

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It's hard to say exactly, but no particular problem is typical. If there's aluminum shavings on the screw before removal, for example, it could bugger the threads. Or if upon initial installation the threads didn't time correctly and it was forced in, that will lead to a headache as well. If you'd like to send an email to us sales 'at' 5dtactical.com with some pictures we can certainly do a little more detective work. The cross bolt threads are 1/4"-20 and the screw is a 1/4"-20 x 1.75" socket cap screw. In the event you need a new screw or happen to need a thread tap, those are the sizes you need.

Posted: 7/25/2017 5:52:15 PM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:
It's hard to say exactly, but no particular problem is typical. If there's aluminum shavings on the screw before removal, for example, it could bugger the threads. Or if upon initial installation the threads didn't time correctly and it was forced in, that will lead to a headache as well. If you'd like to send an email to us sales 'at' 5dtactical.com with some pictures we can certainly do a little more detective work. The cross bolt threads are 1/4"-20 and the screw is a 1/4"-20 x 1.75" socket cap screw. In the event you need a new screw or happen to need a thread tap, those are the sizes you need.

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Thanks @5Dtactical, ygm! What gets me is that after the 2nd lower was milled & drilled, I removed the bolt and reinstalled and it wouldn't thread in.... Anyway, more detail in the email, and I'm happy to send it to y'all for inspection/diagnosis if that's the best answer.

Posted: 7/27/2017 11:02:09 AM EDT

[#7]

AR-15 and 308 Router Jigs, and Jig Conversion Kits NOW ON SALE!

80% Lower Jigs

Posted: 7/28/2017 1:19:52 PM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
AR-15 and 308 Router Jigs, and Jig Conversion Kits NOW ON SALE!

80% Lower Jigs

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bump! Steel AR-15 Router Jig is now $174.99

Posted: 7/31/2017 3:00:19 AM EDT

[#9]

Thought I'd just leave some feedback for yall about the jig.

First; I love the jig, made finishing the two lowers I've used it for so far extremely easy to complete.

Setup was easy and obvious and functioned extremely well even using my drill press from 1948. I went with the recommended Makita router for use with it. Setting up the router specific attachments was easy and obvious thanks to the well written and illustrated instructions.

My only slight gripe; when making the very last pass in the bottom of the FCG pocket I found it a little difficult to start the pass in the "crater" left by the pilot bit. On the first lower when attempting to complete this operation I followed a similar procedure to what's recommended for the trigger slot. I started on low RPMs then stepped the speed up after I had cleared a decent amount of material away. Unfortunately in this process I had the endmill chatter and skip and it made contact with the side of the FCG pocket. No serious damage and I was able to smooth out the scratch with some sandpaper.

On the second lower I did immediately after the first lower, to eliminate the possibility of this happening again. I chucked the endmill into my drill press and used it to essentially drill out a plateau in the bottom of the lower at the final depth, to make a starting point for the router. This alleviated the issue of starting the final pass.

All in all; I'd highly recommend this jig to anyone looking to complete 80% lowers at home. Just have a shop vac and a tarp prepared, and maybe a disposable set of painter's coveralls.

Posted: 7/31/2017 12:23:28 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
Thought I'd just leave some feedback for yall about the jig.

First; I love the jig, made finishing the two lowers I've used it for so far extremely easy to complete.

http://i.imgur.com/eIxbxUI.jpg

Setup was easy and obvious and functioned extremely well even using my drill press from 1948. I went with the recommended Makita router for use with it. Setting up the router specific attachments was easy and obvious thanks to the well written and illustrated instructions.

My only slight gripe; when making the very last pass in the bottom of the FCG pocket I found it a little difficult to start the pass in the "crater" left by the pilot bit. On the first lower when attempting to complete this operation I followed a similar procedure to what's recommended for the trigger slot. I started on low RPMs then stepped the speed up after I had cleared a decent amount of material away. Unfortunately in this process I had the endmill chatter and skip and it made contact with the side of the FCG pocket. No serious damage and I was able to smooth out the scratch with some sandpaper.

On the second lower I did immediately after the first lower, to eliminate the possibility of this happening again. I chucked the endmill into my drill press and used it to essentially drill out a plateau in the bottom of the lower at the final depth, to make a starting point for the router. This alleviated the issue of starting the final pass.

All in all; I'd highly recommend this jig to anyone looking to complete 80% lowers at home. Just have a shop vac and a tarp prepared, and maybe a disposable set of painter's coveralls.

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Thanks for your feedback! As you found out, where there's merely a "crater" left from the #2 pilot hole, that is the point where you will want to start in the #3 trigger slot pilot hole. This may be on your 2nd or 3rd final pass, depending on how deep you initially drilled the #2 hole. Sounds like you have it figured out, but I wanted to reiterate for others who may encounter the same thing. Great work!

Posted: 8/4/2017 12:09:28 PM EDT

[#11]

Friday bump!

Posted: 8/8/2017 11:00:56 AM EDT

[#12]

bump!

Posted: 8/15/2017 11:59:29 PM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
Thanks for your feedback! As you found out, where there's merely a "crater" left from the #2 pilot hole, that is the point where you will want to start in the #3 trigger slot pilot hole. This may be on your 2nd or 3rd final pass, depending on how deep you initially drilled the #2 hole. Sounds like you have it figured out, but I wanted to reiterate for others who may encounter the same thing. Great work!

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thought I'd just leave some feedback for yall about the jig.

First; I love the jig, made finishing the two lowers I've used it for so far extremely easy to complete.

http://i.imgur.com/eIxbxUI.jpg

Setup was easy and obvious and functioned extremely well even using my drill press from 1948. I went with the recommended Makita router for use with it. Setting up the router specific attachments was easy and obvious thanks to the well written and illustrated instructions.

My only slight gripe; when making the very last pass in the bottom of the FCG pocket I found it a little difficult to start the pass in the "crater" left by the pilot bit. On the first lower when attempting to complete this operation I followed a similar procedure to what's recommended for the trigger slot. I started on low RPMs then stepped the speed up after I had cleared a decent amount of material away. Unfortunately in this process I had the endmill chatter and skip and it made contact with the side of the FCG pocket. No serious damage and I was able to smooth out the scratch with some sandpaper.

On the second lower I did immediately after the first lower, to eliminate the possibility of this happening again. I chucked the endmill into my drill press and used it to essentially drill out a plateau in the bottom of the lower at the final depth, to make a starting point for the router. This alleviated the issue of starting the final pass.

All in all; I'd highly recommend this jig to anyone looking to complete 80% lowers at home. Just have a shop vac and a tarp prepared, and maybe a disposable set of painter's coveralls.

Thanks for your feedback! As you found out, where there's merely a "crater" left from the #2 pilot hole, that is the point where you will want to start in the #3 trigger slot pilot hole. This may be on your 2nd or 3rd final pass, depending on how deep you initially drilled the #2 hole. Sounds like you have it figured out, but I wanted to reiterate for others who may encounter the same thing. Great work!