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Link Posted: 5/11/2013 5:50:19 PM EST
Originally Posted By wjgo:
Originally Posted By Windsors:
Wondering the same thing about the barrel nut weight. I see an earlier post said the 13.5" was 14 oz. Does anyone know if that includes the barrel nut ? That nut looks heavy.



I *think* that does not include the barrel nut. I remember reading a weight of over a pound. It is silly that manufacturers are unwilling to publish the specifications of the products they make.



Reading all the posts and held one at the store the other day but never saw this before 5/9/13. I hadn't seen one till it was on a STAG at the LGS. Sweetness.

Also you guys keep asking about weight and if the barrel nut is included in the figures. It doesn't seem relevant about a few oz.'s because 10 rounds of ammo and 30 are more than your questioning. Besides, once the mag is empty, it will be lighter....

The HG feels great and I'm definitely getting one for my Beowulf. Rock Solid and weight is minimal. More weight in ammo and barrel length. 3 Gun, go Carbon.
Link Posted: 5/14/2013 10:16:33 PM EST
Does anyone have a photo of a 13.5" Diamondhead Handguard on a rifle-length system? Thanks.
Link Posted: 5/15/2013 1:28:43 AM EST
Really close to pulling the trigger on this rail (the 13.5 inch one) has anyone established the exact weight? Any tips, recommendations, thoughts, pros, cons, etc? This'll be going on a 16 inch DMR build.
Link Posted: 5/16/2013 10:24:16 AM EST


Is that the battle comp? What muzzle device is that? Thanks
Link Posted: 5/16/2013 2:31:49 PM EST
I ordered my 15" VRS-T this week. Should be here Monday
Link Posted: 5/19/2013 9:10:08 AM EST

Originally Posted By Windsors:
Wondering the same thing about the barrel nut weight. I see an earlier post said the 13.5" was 14 oz. Does anyone know if that includes the barrel nut ? That nut looks heavy.


The nut is 3.2 oz and the 10.25" handguard is 12.8 oz.
1 LB total, plus any rail sections you add.
Their 3" (2.75") rail section with 2 screws is .6 oz.
Link Posted: 5/21/2013 2:58:33 AM EST
Hey busky, do you have any pics if the 15" rail mounted to the upper yet? I am curious to see what the 16" barrel looks like with the 15" rail. I am assuming the top rail measurement is 15" and the bottom about 16.25". Is that about right?
Link Posted: 6/3/2013 8:43:43 PM EST
Does anyone know if the 10.25" handguard will cover a mid length gas block?
Link Posted: 6/4/2013 12:12:29 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/4/2013 12:12:54 AM EST by gunnut003]
Originally Posted By tubee1:
Does anyone know if the 10.25" handguard will cover a mid length gas block?


It should cover a short low profile one. The standard midlength forearm is 9". A standard short low profile gas block is ~1.5"...
Link Posted: 6/4/2013 9:15:58 AM EST
Originally Posted By tubee1:
Does anyone know if the 10.25" handguard will cover a mid length gas block?


Just don't use a DD cross bolt and possible any other cross bolt block. I tried the DD the bottom of the block hits the inside bottom of the forearm.
Link Posted: 6/4/2013 5:29:50 PM EST
Anyone have pics of the 10.25" on a mid-length? What gas block did you use?
Link Posted: 6/4/2013 11:03:39 PM EST
Here is mine rifle with the diamonhead rail:



Its a 25-233AR wildcat.
Link Posted: 7/7/2013 10:19:24 PM EST
I just did a check fit on the new Midwest Industries Billet Upper and it does not fit. The two alignment tabs will not allow the forearm to sit properly against the upper because of the extra material in the uppers area. When I get to assembling my next rifle I foresee having to file down those tabs down half way to fit around the angled Upper. My thought is to align the upper rail and use an exacto knife to scribe a line to file them to. Any thoughts concerns other than making the tabs so small that they are too week to properly act as anti-rotation tabs?
Link Posted: 7/8/2013 1:23:27 PM EST
The two clamp screws should hold well enough to keep the handguard from rotating during use.
Link Posted: 7/8/2013 10:42:58 PM EST
Well, I will have to modify my new hand guard. I will be either trimming the tabs down or taking them off. I'm not going to just leave the tabs un-altered which will screw up the spacing of the rail to the upper's rail. Plus the lower bolts will not line up in the two channels of the barrel nut. Below are some photos. All in all I really like this hand guard. It fits well in my hand and all the attachment whole have been drilled and tapped so there is no need for a back plate that might contact the barrel. I might have to tell my wife that it won't fit on her gun and use it on mine.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/airnutsgs500e/e0cee1e8-c1f5-452b-8852-7a037ad6a3a0.jpg

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/airnutsgs500e/image.jpg

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/airnutsgs500e/airnuts%2001/image-1.jpg

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/airnutsgs500e/airnuts%2001/image.jpg

Link Posted: 7/9/2013 6:04:28 AM EST
That's going to turn out pretty nice. I think you can get away with filing the tabs down to fit.
Link Posted: 7/12/2013 4:20:02 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/12/2013 4:23:04 PM EST by thartman06]
Here's mine...it's a 13.5" on an 18" SPR barrel from WOA. Unfortunately, the screw holes in the rail do not line up with the grooves in the barrel nut so I cannot attach the rail. I called Diamondhead and they're sending me another barrel nut so hopefully that's the issue. If not, I have no idea...anyways, I've planned on putting a scope on this build from the beginning but man, it looks sweet with BUIS

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i104/toddownz/IMG_20130711_182954_zps681e0ec8.jpg

edit: currently its attached to the barrel nut, but the nut is just loose on the threads...this is the only way it fits :( hopefully the new nut will fix it!

Top rail: 13.5"
bottom rail: 14.75"
weight W/O barrel nut: 16.1 oz (cheap digital kitchen scale)
Link Posted: 7/12/2013 5:35:09 PM EST
I read about the problem with the allignment of the bolts and barrel nut in another thread. I couldn't do a proper test fit with my tabs problem, but I did check to see if - wth the barrel nut removed from the upper and inserted into the hand guard flush like it should be when all attached to the upper - there was a ever so slight miss alignment. workable, but non the less an issue. I plan on filling down the edge if need be. I still like how this Barrel nut and the hand guard mount.
Link Posted: 7/12/2013 6:34:40 PM EST
Originally Posted By airnuts:
I read about the problem with the allignment of the bolts and barrel nut in another thread. I couldn't do a proper test fit with my tabs problem, but I did check to see if - wth the barrel nut removed from the upper and inserted into the hand guard flush like it should be when all attached to the upper - there was a ever so slight miss alignment. workable, but non the less an issue. I plan on filling down the edge if need be. I still like how this Barrel nut and the hand guard mount.


Yeah that was probably my thread I started 2 days ago...fill us in once you get it figured out!
Link Posted: 7/13/2013 5:58:17 PM EST
Link Posted: 7/13/2013 6:11:34 PM EST


15" and 10.5"
Link Posted: 7/21/2013 9:01:32 PM EST
yes




Link Posted: 7/23/2013 2:09:58 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By thartman06:
Here's mine...it's a 13.5" on an 18" SPR barrel from WOA. Unfortunately, the screw holes in the rail do not line up with the grooves in the barrel nut so I cannot attach the rail. I called Diamondhead and they're sending me another barrel nut so hopefully that's the issue. If not, I have no idea...anyways, I've planned on putting a scope on this build from the beginning but man, it looks sweet with BUIS

<a href="http://s70.photobucket.com/user/toddownz/media/IMG_20130711_182954_zps681e0ec8.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i104/toddownz/IMG_20130711_182954_zps681e0ec8.jpg</a>

edit: currently its attached to the barrel nut, but the nut is just loose on the threads...this is the only way it fits :( hopefully the new nut will fix it!

Top rail: 13.5"
bottom rail: 14.75"
weight W/O barrel nut: 16.1 oz (cheap digital kitchen scale)
View Quote


Rifle length gas?
Link Posted: 7/27/2013 10:27:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/27/2013 10:32:58 PM EST by N0SH0]
[the 10.25 should cover most mid length gas blocks. this is the 10.25 on a 16" barrel with the MI (longer than most) gas block. it just barely sticks out and the slant in the gas block makes it look good IMO. .625 block and barrel btw.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd123/petetm86/IMG_20130618_202032.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd123/petetm86/IMG_20130618_200646_860.jpg
Link Posted: 8/8/2013 11:45:20 AM EST
I'm still struggling on getting a handle on this thing from the photos.

For those of you who have it, exactly how flat is the bottom of them? I'm deliberating between this and the Seekings SPR3 handguard for my precision build. If the Diamondhead has a flat/wide enough bottom, then I'd like to go with it, as the small size and figer grooves look appealing.
Link Posted: 8/15/2013 9:49:12 AM EST
Just finished by build yesterday.


I used SI-Defense Billet receivers and had to file on the anti-rotation tabs. I filed them down just enough to get them to fit. If I had to do it again, I would use a dremel, as the file removed some of the finish from the back of the rail. Not a big deal as I will probably paint the whole rifle anyways.

My issue is a forward sling mount. I definitely don't want to put a rail on the side as it looks terrible as shown in a previous post. I'm considering a bottom rail towards the front, I just don't want it to be too long. How does everyone else mount their sling?
Link Posted: 9/5/2013 12:13:12 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/5/2013 9:00:17 AM EST by chewbacca]
Does your guys' gas tube flop around with this forearm? As in, inside the receiver. Since there are no indexing teeth on the barrel nut the tube is just free floating in the upper. Trust me I know that the teeth on a standard barrel nut should not be touching the tube, however it does prevent excessive lateral movement. Currently with this forearm my tube moves in all directions and its so loose, i can hear it clang just by shaking the upper. It can be heard through the phone or feet away it has so much play. I have assembled hundreds of uppers over the years and I have never had this situation. I believe this is causing malfunctions because after installing the forearm I have failure to feeds and failure to extracts. I noticed atypical wear on the side of the tube so I believe I am correct in asserting the tube movement is causing the tube and carrier to misalign at random. I have trouble shot everything else in this upper and the only part change from before, when it went from functional to non functional, was the forearm. Perhaps its simply the combination of this upper with forearm.
Link Posted: 9/5/2013 8:37:51 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chewbacca:
Does your guys' gas tube flop around with this forearm? As in, inside the receiver. Since there are no indexing teeth on the barrel nut the tube is just free floating in the upper. Trust me I know that the teeth on a standard barrel nut should not be touching the tube, however it does prevent excessive lateral movement. Currently with this forearm my tube moves in directions and its so loose, i can hear it clang just by shaking the upper. It can be heard through the phone or feet away it has so much play. I have assembled hundreds of uppers over the years and I have never had this situation. I believe this is causing malfunctions because after installing the forearm I have failure to feeds and failure to extracts. I noticed atypical wear on the side of the tube so I believe I am correct in asserting the tube movement is causing the tube and carrier to misalign at random. I have trouble shot everything else in this upper and the only part change from before, when it went from functional to non functional, was the forearm. Perhaps its simply the combination of this upper with forearm.
View Quote


This was a concern of mine as well, as the gas tube does move around a bit. However there is not a lot of movement, and I have not had an issue resulting from it after about 400 rounds. The gas key closes on it just fine. You could maybe try shimming it, although you'd have to use shims that can take a lot of heat.
Link Posted: 9/5/2013 5:13:02 PM EST
I measured the hole in the receiver where the tube goes through and it's .197 vs .168 on my colt upper, so the combo of an oversized hole and the loose tube was it. To test the theory I pulled off the forearm and replaced it with a std brl nut and went shooting... Back to 100%. Oh well.
Link Posted: 9/12/2013 12:17:19 PM EST
It may be possible to make a thin sleeve around the gas tube stabilize it? Maybe aluminum foil? I imagine the gas tube gets pretty hot, is there an adhesive that will work at temperatures that high?
Link Posted: 9/22/2013 2:47:52 PM EST
if someone could measure the outer diameter of the barrel nut I would appreciate it.
Link Posted: 9/30/2013 4:18:07 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/30/2013 4:18:39 PM EST by Doubledeez]
I know some have asked how to attach sling mount or stud to the VRS T w/o having to use / buy the rail sections.

10/32 threaded sling swivel stud is what's recommended by diamondhead.10-32x3/8. Below is a link to where you can purchase them.
You can buy a 12 pack for 19.99 + $7.95 shipping on brownsnell, or buy singles from below link.

http://www.castbullet.com/screws.htm
Link Posted: 10/18/2013 1:57:16 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/19/2013 4:58:55 AM EST by MaverickAA]
Sorry to revive an old-ish thread... but has anyone had success mounting this on an Adams Arms piston set up? I'm assuming the barrel nut is too long to work with the Adams piston rod spring, but wondered if anyone had a way around this issue? I've tried contacting Diamondhead about this, and no reply. Same in the Adams Arms "industy" section (which Adams seems to rarely comment).
Anyone? AA + VRS-T?

edit: never mind. I received an answer from Diamondhead stating non of their current FF tubes will work with an Adams Arms system due to the barrel nut (as I suspected).
Link Posted: 11/14/2013 6:27:27 PM EST
Are those the diamondhead rail sections ? Does anyone know what comps will fit inside of the free float
Link Posted: 11/30/2013 12:05:13 AM EST
When you guys put the nut on, are you timing it at all or just wrenching it on?
Link Posted: 11/30/2013 9:26:09 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aeroworksxp:
When you guys put the nut on, are you timing it at all or just wrenching it on?
View Quote
There is no timing involved with it.
Link Posted: 11/30/2013 9:30:58 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VacaDuck:
There is no timing involved with it.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VacaDuck:
Originally Posted By aeroworksxp:
When you guys put the nut on, are you timing it at all or just wrenching it on?
There is no timing involved with it.


So the nut doesn't need to be squared (flat side on top)? It can be canted and still get the rail on?
Link Posted: 11/30/2013 3:30:34 PM EST
yep it dont matter
Link Posted: 11/30/2013 4:09:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/9/2013 6:50:20 PM EST by aeroworksxp]
Just picked up a 13.5" vrs t rail. looking forward to installing. $154.79 @ Link

Place looks leary, but they have a good rep on gunbroker. Mine arrived quick.
Link Posted: 12/1/2013 8:06:08 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/1/2013 8:09:11 AM EST by Gacksnabbit]
some very nice rifles here.
Link Posted: 12/9/2013 1:23:33 PM EST
any idea of the internal diameter? I'm asking with a shorter barrel and a can in mind.
Link Posted: 12/9/2013 1:25:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/9/2013 2:08:00 PM EST by aeroworksxp]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By CuyahogaBill:
any idea of the internal diameter? I'm asking with a shorter barrel and a can in mind.
View Quote


Look on youtube. Their is a video of a guy measureing everything.

Eta:
Link

I don't think a can will fit in there.. Unless it's a fairly skinny one. I think the novsenke pig flash hider fits.. Barely.. Iirc
Link Posted: 12/9/2013 9:32:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/9/2013 9:32:50 PM EST by RevOcelot]
This thread convinced me to pick up a 13.5 for a rifle remodel. And thanks to Aeroworks, I found a great price. Will post pics when all the parts get put on.
Link Posted: 12/9/2013 9:35:53 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By RevOcelot:
This thread convinced me to pick up a 13.5 for a rifle remodel. And thanks to Aeroworks, I found a great price. Will post pics when all the parts get put on.
View Quote


Your welcome

It's very easy to Install. However, I did need to do some twistng and pushing to get it seated over the nut. Which is good because it's not going anywhere. And don't over tighten the 2 Allen heads.
Link Posted: 12/9/2013 9:37:36 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aeroworksxp:


Your welcome

It's very easy to Install. However, I did need to do some twistng and pushing to get it seated over the nut. Which is good because it's not going anywhere. And don't over tighten the 2 Allen heads.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aeroworksxp:
Originally Posted By RevOcelot:
This thread convinced me to pick up a 13.5 for a rifle remodel. And thanks to Aeroworks, I found a great price. Will post pics when all the parts get put on.


Your welcome

It's very easy to Install. However, I did need to do some twistng and pushing to get it seated over the nut. Which is good because it's not going anywhere. And don't over tighten the 2 Allen heads.



Do they give you any torque specs for those? On my lmt they give you a preset tq wrench.
Link Posted: 12/9/2013 9:44:57 PM EST
I didn't see any torque specs for those bolts..

Also, on my box it says its aluminum. I recall people in here saying it's made of steel?
Link Posted: 12/9/2013 9:46:39 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aeroworksxp:
I didn't see any torque specs for those bolts..

Also, on my box it says its aluminum. I recall people in here saying it's made of steel?
View Quote



I think they were referring to the barrel nut being steel.
Link Posted: 1/13/2014 2:09:46 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By NezPerceRedMan:
Hey busky, do you have any pics if the 15" rail mounted to the upper yet? I am curious to see what the 16" barrel looks like with the 15" rail. I am assuming the top rail measurement is 15" and the bottom about 16.25". Is that about right?
View Quote

Here is what the 15” rail looks like on a 16” barrel. Just picked this up at a local gun show this past weekend and LOVE it! It is my first AR.

Stagarms model 3T-M. . .



Link Posted: 1/13/2014 3:44:29 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Will_Power:
I'm still struggling on getting a handle on this thing from the photos.

For those of you who have it, exactly how flat is the bottom of them? I'm deliberating between this and the Seekings SPR3 handguard for my precision build. If the Diamondhead has a flat/wide enough bottom, then I'd like to go with it, as the small size and figer grooves look appealing.
View Quote



The bottom is perfectly flat, but rounded just enough to cradle in your hand. Everyone I have had look at this rail says it's the most comfortable and natural ergonomics they have seen. Don't expect something really wide.
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