User Panel
Does anyone know if they still plan on making an EX model for those wanting one to extend past a fsb or (in my case) an adams arms gas block?
I know the review on the first page shows pictures of one but nothing on their website |
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What is the exact length of dead space on the bottom rear that cannot accept a rail.
I like putting a VFG at the balance point. |
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Will an Osprey Defense OPS-416 Gas Piston Retrofit Conversion Kit fit under the V-RST rail system?
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Well my Diamondhead vrs-t 13.5" rail came in last week and my 1 1/4" crows foot wrench this morning. What torque specs is everyone using? Is it the regular 30-80 or should I just pick a number since there are no teeth to align? Also since the Magpul L5 rails will fit, will the L2 rail fit? Any info would be great
I just torqued it to 50# |
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Well my Diamondhead vrs-t 13.5" rail came in last week and my 1 1/4" crows foot wrench this morning. What torque specs is everyone using? Is it the regular 30-80 or should I just pick a number since there is no teeth to align? Also since the Magpul L5 rails will fit, will the L2 rail fit? Any info would be great I wish they had gone with the keymod spec on the sides and the bottom of that rail. I'd buy one if they had. Holding out for a Noveske NSR to come back in stock.... -ZA |
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Anyone know the ID for this rail or have one over a Noveske Pig?
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Well my Diamondhead vrs-t 13.5" rail came in last week and my 1 1/4" crows foot wrench this morning. What torque specs is everyone using? Is it the regular 30-80 or should I just pick a number since there is no teeth to align? Also since the Magpul L5 rails will fit, will the L2 rail fit? Any info would be great Wondering the answer to this as well.... |
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TAGGED! I like it also. I would like to see a view of the underside. BTW: I consider the abundance of handguard choices available for the AR to cause the most anguish in building one.. ALL OF THIS. /I really mean I came here to say all three of these |
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I love the look of this hand guard also. Im thinking the 10.5 on a 16" barrel...
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Is the barrel nut aluminum or steel? Steel. Damn, now I'm questioning myself. I'll double check when I get home. ETA: Yep, it is steel. |
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Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile.
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Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile. Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum. All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure. |
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Nice rail by the way. I kinda wish I had known about it when I bought my Midwest SS Gen 2. I like the variety of rail sections available for those vice the 2 options for my rail.
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Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile. Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum. All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure. Hmm, I didn't know that. But how does it not contain pressure? The bolt locks into the teeth on the barrel, and the round is held between them. The barrel nut is the only thing holding the barrel to the upper receiver... unless you have a scope mount crossing over, hehe. |
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Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile. Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum. All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure. Hmm, I didn't know that. But how does it not contain pressure? The bolt locks into the teeth on the barrel, and the round is held between them. The barrel nut is the only thing holding the barrel to the upper receiver... unless you have a scope mount crossing over, hehe. Because the bolt is locked into the barrel extension. The pressure is contained within the barrel/barrel extension/bolt. The barrel nut and upper are only there to hold things in place. If you made a threaded barrel extension and upper you could dispense with the barrel nut entirely. |
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Yep, barrel nuts do nothing to contain the pressure of shooting. You could even shoot an AR with no barrel nut at all, the only thing that would happen is when the BCG slammed forward after the first shot it would probably knock the barrel forward out of the receiver.
Aluminum barrel nut is much lighter as well as being a more effective heat sink. |
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Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile. Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum. All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure. Hmm, I didn't know that. But how does it not contain pressure? The bolt locks into the teeth on the barrel, and the round is held between them. The barrel nut is the only thing holding the barrel to the upper receiver... unless you have a scope mount crossing over, hehe. Because the bolt is locked into the barrel extension. The pressure is contained within the barrel/barrel extension/bolt. The barrel nut and upper are only there to hold things in place. If you made a threaded barrel extension and upper you could dispense with the barrel nut entirely. Okay, that makes sense. Didn't think of that. I still would rather go with a steel barrel nut since the weight difference is minimal, and it's so close to the center of gravity that it wouldn't really matter anyway. But I digress. |
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I thought it would so I ordered one. Nope!! The sling mount has an anti-rotation nipple on it. You could grind it off but then it would spin on you and markup your rail. I then ordered the Magpul rsa and that worked out great.
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Okay, that makes sense. Didn't think of that. I still would rather go with a steel barrel nut since the weight difference is minimal, and it's so close to the center of gravity that it wouldn't really matter anyway. But I digress. Eh ounces EASILY add up to lbs on AR's... I trim every ounce I can. If I have a choice between two hand guards and they both do the same thing why get the heavier one? Because it looks cooler? eh. I'll alot a certain amount of leeway for aesthetics and I would definitely consider one of these hand guards but only if I can find one used on the EE for less than a used Troy Alpha or Samson Evo. As long as I clock in around 7.25lbs unloaded I am happy, but at that point balance is my concern. |
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Assuming that the 10.25 inch handguard has a bottom measurement length of 11 5/8 is it safe to assume that the 13.5 handguard would be just shy of 15" on the bottom?? I have a 16 inch barrel and like the looks of the ones that come a couple of inches shy of the end of the barrel but the 13.5 handguard would be too long by an inch or so. ANyone have the bottom measurement of the 13.5 inch handguard?
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Assuming that the 10.25 inch handguard has a bottom measurement length of 11 5/8 is it safe to assume that the 13.5 handguard would be just shy of 15" on the bottom?? I have a 16 inch barrel and like the looks of the ones that come a couple of inches shy of the end of the barrel but the 13.5 handguard would be too long by an inch or so. ANyone have the bottom measurement of the 13.5 inch handguard? Wondering about this as well. Also, does anyone have pics of the 15" handguard installed on a 16" barrel? |
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These are slick, I think I'm going to mount one of these on my budget dpms. I like the seekins but they cost a bit more. I also would like to know the oal of the bottom "lip" of the 15" version.
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Well my 13.5 came in from Tier One today. (great guy to deal with)
Mine has some issues with the packaging. There was a lot of wear already on the rail when I opened the sealed bag. Also can see some obvious Sharpie touch ups done to it... Good thing its getting Cerakoted or I would be calling Diamondhead for another. I can also see where somebody hand sanded this thing before it went to "coating". Where ever there are open ports/holes, there's a sanding paper mark on either side. I like the shape and ergo's. Price was right and it looks badass, so whatever, I've paid more for worse. |
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I want one of these. What would be the best way to hook up a QD swivle mount?
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IS that a 15" ? what is the spec on that barrel/guard? I am trying to find a 15" for my 3G but have NOTHING! HELP........... |
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Nevermind!
I see it's the 13.5" on 16" barrel set up I REALLY like these, just missed a 13.5 new for $147 Should have just pulled the trigger, but I missed......... More to come |
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Wondering the same thing about the barrel nut weight. I see an earlier post said the 13.5" was 14 oz. Does anyone know if that includes the barrel nut ? That nut looks heavy.
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Wondering the same thing about the barrel nut weight. I see an earlier post said the 13.5" was 14 oz. Does anyone know if that includes the barrel nut ? That nut looks heavy. I *think* that does not include the barrel nut. I remember reading a weight of over a pound. It is silly that manufacturers are unwilling to publish the specifications of the products they make. |
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Can some tell me the overall length of the barrel nut (I'm thinking of using just the nut on a 4" 22LR barrel upper.
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I just got the 10.5 inch model for a SBR build with a 9.5 inch barrel. I had wanted to do the Noevske KX3 but the guy at the shop had tried to fit it under the handguard but it will not fit. For those who were asking.
Schultz |
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Can some tell me the overall length of the barrel nut (I'm thinking of using just the nut on a 4" 22LR barrel upper. Buddy asked me to post this for you. The barrel nut weighs 3.41oz and is 1 and 5/8" long. |
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Anyone know of rails that work with the drilled and tapped holes that are on this thing?
Thank you for info..................... |
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So I picked up a 10.25" and some Magpul L5's, everything arrived today and I started assembly. It looks better in person than any pictures I've seen! It feels awesome and is solid.
Now the downside. I've read several folks say that the L5 holes line up perfectly, but this was not my experience. the holes are off by several thousandths, though I have yet to put calipers on them. They are far enough off that there is no chance of getting a screw started in the second hole once the first one is in. Just doing a visual check makes it VERY obvious there is no way to screw it down without modification to the holes in the rail. Not only do the holes from the L5 not line up with the Diamondhead holes, the supplied screws have different threads. So for those expecting a drop in solution, this is not the case. The Diamondhead holes use 10/32 threading and the Magpul screws have 10/24 threads. Swapping out screws is easy enough, but the L5 rail mount holes will have to be modded slightly to fit properly. A bit of quick elongation should work fine, but I thought others might want to know it is not a drop in fit. Hopefully I can get the mod done this weekend and post some pics. |
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It sure loks like it would be a very comfortable rail in the hand. Maybe some others will take notice and follow. I hope to try one in person soon. Flaws reported so far don't seem out of line for a product made in the USA and sells for well under $200. The biggest drawback I have, and the main reason why I am not ordering one right now, is I wish the front wasn't so open. I like the angled front, but it would look much better if they made a end cap to close this area up. I reckon on a good note if you were ever stranded on a deserted island you could use it for a shovel, lol!!!! Sorry, I am watching Naked Castaway as I type this.
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I am new to the AR15 and this forum. Just picked up a S&W MP15 Sport. I just wanted a low cost one to start with. I really like the way the VRS T 13.5" looks on the 16" barrel. Just found a couple on gunbroker.com for 160.00 and am going to order one. For the gas block, is steel or aluminum better? Also can't find any posts on the ATI Strikeforce grip and stock. Anyone have any experience or info on it?
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