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Link Posted: 11/26/2012 2:36:28 AM EDT
[#1]
Does anyone know if they still plan on making an EX model for those wanting one to extend past a fsb or (in my case) an adams arms gas block?

I know the review on the first page shows pictures of one but nothing on their website
Link Posted: 11/26/2012 8:23:47 PM EDT
[#2]
What is the exact length of dead space on the bottom rear that cannot accept a rail.

I like putting a VFG at the balance point.
Link Posted: 12/17/2012 1:07:01 PM EDT
[#3]
finally got my rifle cerakote ordered! hope you all like it. was done by Rocky Mountain Firearms Finishing. skull multicam with flat dark earth, patriot brown, OD green, and graphite black

Link Posted: 12/30/2012 9:11:55 PM EDT
[#4]
Will an Osprey Defense OPS-416 Gas Piston Retrofit Conversion Kit fit under the V-RST rail system?
Link Posted: 12/30/2012 9:18:29 PM EDT
[#5]
Duracoat and Hydrographics courtesy of Coyote Arms in McAllen, Texas:)



Link Posted: 1/15/2013 10:26:56 AM EDT
[#6]
Well my Diamondhead vrs-t 13.5" rail came in last week and my 1 1/4" crows foot wrench this morning. What torque specs is everyone using? Is it the regular 30-80 or should I just pick a number since there are no teeth to align? Also since the Magpul L5 rails will fit, will the L2 rail fit? Any info would be great

I just torqued it to 50#
Link Posted: 1/15/2013 2:22:41 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Well my Diamondhead vrs-t 13.5" rail came in last week and my 1 1/4" crows foot wrench this morning. What torque specs is everyone using? Is it the regular 30-80 or should I just pick a number since there is no teeth to align? Also since the Magpul L5 rails will fit, will the L2 rail fit? Any info would be great


I wish they had gone with the keymod spec on the sides and the bottom of that rail. I'd buy one if they had.
Holding out for a Noveske NSR to come back in stock....

-ZA
Link Posted: 1/17/2013 12:51:04 PM EDT
[#8]
Anyone know the ID for this rail or have one over a Noveske Pig?
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 10:44:17 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Well my Diamondhead vrs-t 13.5" rail came in last week and my 1 1/4" crows foot wrench this morning. What torque specs is everyone using? Is it the regular 30-80 or should I just pick a number since there is no teeth to align? Also since the Magpul L5 rails will fit, will the L2 rail fit? Any info would be great


Wondering the answer to this as well....
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 11:08:46 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
TAGGED!  I like it also.  

I would like to see a  view of the underside.  

BTW:
I consider the abundance of handguard choices available for the AR to cause the most anguish in building one..


ALL OF THIS.

/I really mean I came here to say all three of these
Link Posted: 1/29/2013 10:27:48 PM EDT
[#11]
I love the look of this hand guard also. Im thinking the 10.5 on a 16" barrel...
Link Posted: 1/29/2013 11:40:12 PM EDT
[#12]
Is the barrel nut aluminum or steel?
Link Posted: 1/30/2013 1:33:08 PM EDT
[#13]



Quoted:


Is the barrel nut aluminum or steel?


Steel.



 
Link Posted: 1/30/2013 2:01:30 PM EDT
[#14]

my 10.25 on a pistol with a troy claymore about 1" inside the hand guard
Link Posted: 1/30/2013 2:59:36 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Is the barrel nut aluminum or steel?

Steel.

Link Posted: 1/30/2013 3:28:54 PM EDT
[#16]





Quoted:





Quoted:




Quoted:


Is the barrel nut aluminum or steel?



Steel.








Damn, now I'm questioning myself.  I'll double check when I get home.



ETA:  Yep, it is steel.





 
Link Posted: 3/5/2013 9:46:00 PM EDT
[#17]
Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile.
Link Posted: 3/5/2013 9:52:38 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile.


Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum.  All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure.
Link Posted: 3/5/2013 9:52:51 PM EDT
[#19]
Nice rail by the way. I kinda wish I had known about it when I bought my Midwest SS Gen 2. I like the variety of rail sections available for those vice the 2 options for my rail.
Link Posted: 3/5/2013 10:01:42 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile.


Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum.  All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure.


Hmm, I didn't know that. But how does it not contain pressure? The bolt locks into the teeth on the barrel, and the round is held between them. The barrel nut is the only thing holding the barrel to the upper receiver... unless you have a scope mount crossing over, hehe.
Link Posted: 3/5/2013 10:34:19 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile.


Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum.  All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure.


Hmm, I didn't know that. But how does it not contain pressure? The bolt locks into the teeth on the barrel, and the round is held between them. The barrel nut is the only thing holding the barrel to the upper receiver... unless you have a scope mount crossing over, hehe.


Because the bolt is locked into the barrel extension.  The pressure is contained within the barrel/barrel extension/bolt.  The barrel nut and upper are only there to hold things in place.  If you made a threaded barrel extension and upper you could dispense with the barrel nut entirely.
Link Posted: 3/5/2013 10:41:21 PM EDT
[#22]
Yep, barrel nuts do nothing to contain the pressure of shooting.  You could even shoot an AR with no barrel nut at all, the only thing that would happen is when the BCG slammed forward after the first shot it would probably knock the barrel forward out of the receiver.

Aluminum barrel nut is much lighter as well as being a more effective heat sink.
Link Posted: 3/5/2013 10:50:36 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Unless I'm ill-educated, a barrel nut should never be anything as soft as aluminum. Too much pressure there, and the barrel may eventually become the projectile.


Quite a few barrel nuts are aluminum.  All it does is hold the barrel in place, doesn't contain any of the pressure.


Hmm, I didn't know that. But how does it not contain pressure? The bolt locks into the teeth on the barrel, and the round is held between them. The barrel nut is the only thing holding the barrel to the upper receiver... unless you have a scope mount crossing over, hehe.


Because the bolt is locked into the barrel extension.  The pressure is contained within the barrel/barrel extension/bolt.  The barrel nut and upper are only there to hold things in place.  If you made a threaded barrel extension and upper you could dispense with the barrel nut entirely.


Okay, that makes sense. Didn't think of that. I still would rather go with a steel barrel nut since the weight difference is minimal, and it's so close to the center of gravity that it wouldn't really matter anyway. But I digress.

Link Posted: 3/11/2013 9:38:15 PM EDT
[#24]
Anyone know if the Magpul MOE Sling Attachment can be mounted to the V-RS-T? Seems like it should just screw in since the MOE rails work.










 
Link Posted: 3/12/2013 12:19:46 PM EDT
[#25]
I thought it would so I ordered one. Nope!! The sling mount has an anti-rotation nipple on it. You could grind it off but then it would spin on you and markup your rail. I then ordered the Magpul rsa and that worked out great.
Link Posted: 3/12/2013 7:24:51 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

Okay, that makes sense. Didn't think of that. I still would rather go with a steel barrel nut since the weight difference is minimal, and it's so close to the center of gravity that it wouldn't really matter anyway. But I digress.



Eh ounces EASILY add up to lbs on AR's... I trim every ounce I can.   If I have a choice between two hand guards and they both do the same thing why get the heavier one?  Because it looks cooler?  eh.  I'll alot a certain amount of leeway for aesthetics and I would definitely consider one of these hand guards but only if I can find one used on the EE for less than a used Troy Alpha or Samson Evo.  

As long as I clock in around 7.25lbs unloaded I am happy, but at that point balance is my concern.

 
Link Posted: 3/17/2013 8:17:34 PM EDT
[#27]
Assuming that the 10.25 inch handguard has a bottom measurement length of 11 5/8 is it safe to assume that the 13.5 handguard would be just shy of 15" on the bottom?? I have a 16 inch barrel and like the looks of the ones that come a couple of inches shy of the end of the barrel but the 13.5 handguard would be too long by an inch or so. ANyone have the bottom measurement of the 13.5 inch handguard?
Link Posted: 3/22/2013 9:13:00 PM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
Assuming that the 10.25 inch handguard has a bottom measurement length of 11 5/8 is it safe to assume that the 13.5 handguard would be just shy of 15" on the bottom?? I have a 16 inch barrel and like the looks of the ones that come a couple of inches shy of the end of the barrel but the 13.5 handguard would be too long by an inch or so. ANyone have the bottom measurement of the 13.5 inch handguard?


Wondering about this as well. Also, does anyone have pics of the 15" handguard installed on a 16" barrel?
Link Posted: 3/23/2013 10:07:54 PM EDT
[#29]
These are slick, I think I'm going to mount one of these on my budget dpms.  I like the seekins but they cost a bit more.  I also would like to know the oal of the bottom "lip" of the 15" version.
Link Posted: 3/31/2013 12:12:17 AM EDT
[#30]
Well my 13.5 came in from Tier One today. (great guy to deal with)

Mine has some issues with the packaging. There was a lot of wear already on the rail when I opened the sealed bag. Also can see some obvious Sharpie touch ups done to it... Good thing its getting Cerakoted or I would be calling Diamondhead for another.

I can also see where somebody hand sanded this thing before it went to "coating". Where ever there are open ports/holes, there's a sanding paper mark on either side. I like the shape and ergo's. Price was right and it looks badass, so whatever, I've paid more for worse.
Link Posted: 4/9/2013 3:15:00 PM EDT
[#31]
on the 13.5 rail

TOP 13.5"
BOTTOM 14.75"
Link Posted: 4/11/2013 11:12:50 AM EDT
[#32]
I want one of these.  What would be the best way to hook up a QD swivle mount?
Link Posted: 4/12/2013 4:00:05 AM EDT
[#33]

I wanted something different ....






More Pics Here
Link Posted: 4/12/2013 10:46:33 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:

I wanted something different ....


More Pics Here




IS that a 15"  ?

what is the spec on that barrel/guard?


I am trying to find a 15" for my 3G but have NOTHING!

HELP...........
Link Posted: 4/12/2013 10:58:07 AM EDT
[#35]
Nevermind!

I see it's the 13.5" on 16" barrel set up

I REALLY like these, just missed a 13.5 new for $147
Should have just pulled the trigger, but I missed.........

More to come
Link Posted: 4/15/2013 2:51:45 PM EDT
[#36]
How heavy is the barrel nut?
Link Posted: 4/21/2013 11:46:28 AM EDT
[#37]
Wondering the same thing about the barrel nut weight.  I see an earlier post said the 13.5" was 14 oz.  Does anyone know if that includes the barrel nut ?  That nut looks heavy.

Link Posted: 4/21/2013 11:55:02 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
Wondering the same thing about the barrel nut weight.  I see an earlier post said the 13.5" was 14 oz.  Does anyone know if that includes the barrel nut ?  That nut looks heavy.



I *think* that does not include the barrel nut.  I remember reading a weight of over a pound.  It is silly that manufacturers are unwilling to publish the specifications of the products they make.

Link Posted: 4/22/2013 9:47:46 AM EDT
[#39]
Rail feels good. 1 problem already had both threads wear it clamps to barrel nut popped out. Fixed with Helli-coils. Diamondhead would not send me a new 1 said they would put Helli-coils in it i said hell i can to that an hung up. all in all yes i would buy another but they wanted to ack like Cerakote was the problem.
Link Posted: 4/22/2013 4:59:37 PM EDT
[#40]
Can some tell me the overall length of the barrel nut (I'm thinking of using just the nut on a 4" 22LR barrel upper.
Link Posted: 4/22/2013 5:30:29 PM EDT
[#41]
I just got the 10.5 inch model for a SBR build with a 9.5 inch barrel. I had wanted to do the Noevske KX3 but the guy at the shop had tried to fit it under the handguard but it will not fit. For those who were asking.
Schultz
Link Posted: 4/24/2013 5:22:35 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
Can some tell me the overall length of the barrel nut (I'm thinking of using just the nut on a 4" 22LR barrel upper.


Buddy asked me to post this for you.  The barrel nut weighs 3.41oz and is 1 and 5/8" long.
Link Posted: 4/25/2013 3:06:51 PM EDT
[#43]
Anyone know of rails that work with the drilled and tapped holes that are on this thing?

Thank you for info.....................
Link Posted: 4/25/2013 6:36:53 PM EDT
[#44]
I know I am spamming but here is a pic for the X rail
15" free float on 16" barrel >

Link Posted: 5/2/2013 11:08:34 PM EDT
[#45]
So I picked up a 10.25" and some Magpul L5's, everything arrived today and I started assembly. It looks better in person than any pictures I've seen! It feels awesome and is solid.

Now the downside. I've read several folks say that the L5 holes line up perfectly, but this was not my experience. the holes are off by several thousandths, though I have yet to put calipers on them. They are far enough off that there is no chance of getting a screw started in the second hole once the first one is in. Just doing a visual check makes it VERY obvious there is no way to screw it down without modification to the holes in the rail.

Not only do the holes from the L5 not line up with the Diamondhead holes, the supplied screws have different threads. So for those expecting a drop in solution, this is not the case. The Diamondhead holes use 10/32 threading and the Magpul screws have 10/24 threads. Swapping out screws is easy enough, but the L5 rail mount holes will have to be modded slightly to fit properly. A bit of quick elongation should work fine, but I thought others might want to know it is not a drop in fit.

Hopefully I can get the mod done this weekend and post some pics.
Link Posted: 5/4/2013 11:58:01 AM EDT
[#46]
Some lower quality pics of the VRS-T:




Link Posted: 5/4/2013 9:33:15 PM EDT
[#47]
It sure loks like it would be a very comfortable rail in the hand. Maybe some others will take notice and follow. I hope to try one in person soon. Flaws reported so far don't seem out of line for a product made in the USA and sells for well under $200. The biggest drawback I have, and the main reason why I am not ordering one right now, is I wish the front wasn't so open. I like the angled front, but it would look much better if they made a end cap to close this area up. I reckon on a good note if you were ever stranded on a deserted island you could use it for a shovel, lol!!!!  Sorry, I am watching Naked Castaway as I type this.
Link Posted: 5/5/2013 10:46:53 PM EDT
[#48]
I am new to the AR15 and this forum. Just picked up a S&W MP15 Sport. I just wanted a low cost one to start with. I really like the way the VRS T 13.5" looks on the 16" barrel. Just found a couple on gunbroker.com for 160.00 and am going to order one. For the gas block, is steel or aluminum better? Also can't find any posts on the ATI Strikeforce grip and stock. Anyone have any experience or info on it?
Link Posted: 5/6/2013 7:24:23 AM EDT
[#49]
I am installing a 15" VRS on 16" upper I am building for that dissipator look!
Out of the box I got a bad barrel nut, would not thread on the upper. Call to Diamondhead
was all it took new one on the way. It is extremely comfortable to hold, should make for easy purchase
in the heat of 3 gun matches. I had some UTG rails I ordered and the $7 rail kit they sell at Amazon for
Mossberg shotguns was close enough that with only minor reaming it mounted up nicely.

[/URL]
Link Posted: 5/6/2013 11:51:34 PM EDT
[#50]
So first a few pics of the completed and fired rifle. Only fired two boxes, but had zero malfunctions with Wolf Military Classic. Adjustable gas block set to what should roughly be half open.
Parts: Superior Arms lower, Bravo Co upper, PKFirerams LPK, Magpul MOE+ rubberized pistol grip, Magpul ACS stock, Magpul enhanced trigger guard (alum), Spike's milspec buffer tube kit, KNS OD anti-rotation pins, Mossberg 7.62x39 1/10 barrel, Stoner Talon 5/8 flash hider, Black Rain Ord NiBx bolt carrier, DPMS 7.62x39 bolt, standard 5.56 chromed firing pin, Syrac Ordnance adjustable detent low pro gas block, YHM flip front sight, Matech flip up ranging rear peep sight, misc charging handle I had laying around, and ASC 7.62x39 30 round mags.





Next we see that the MOE L5 fits the 3.2" spec listed in the Magpul spec sheet.


An adjustment/elongation of .03" or 3 thousandths is needed to make it a perfect fit when using screws with heads that completely fill the countersink area on the L5. A screw with much smaller head may be used and can be forced to fit, but I prefer not to do this. L5 hole before.

L5 hole after slight elongation with a round bastard cut file, then finished up with a fine Nicholson half round.


Now it fits perfectly using the button head hex stainless steel screws I picked up at Home Depot. No forced entry needed now.



FWIW I found out that the spare rails from my VLTOR CASV fit absolutely PERFECT! And the threads are the same, so if you happen to have some extra VLTOR rails/screws laying around like I do, they are an exact match!!
That goes for the short and long CASV rails, but I only snapped a pic of the short. Also, the CASV rails are a bit cheaper than the Diamondhead rails, plus the CASV rail pack comes with multiple sizes unlike the 3x same length you get with Diamondhead.




And finally with the MOE L5 mounted side view. I doubt I will keep it there, but this was only for test fitting.
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