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Posted: 3/26/2006 9:18:13 AM EDT
Prior to the A/W ban ending, I bought a M4 upper from Fulton Armory. It has a fake flash suppressor on it. I asked them if they could take it off and put a real suppressor on it and they said they don't do this service.

Has anyone out there removed their fake Fulton Armory suppressor? Is it threaded? Is what I want to do possible?

Thanks for your time,

John from MD
Link Posted: 3/26/2006 11:06:28 AM EDT
John,

You may be better off just having your rifle re-barreled. I believe that the permanently attached fake flash suppressors and muzzle breaks had to be pinned and soldered. You would need to find someone to drill out the pin and then remove the fake flash suppressor by heating it with a torch (my guess on this second part). Then, they would need to fill in the hole left by the pin, thread the barrel and install the new threaded flash suppressor. The whole process seems like it would put a lot of stress on the muzzle area of the barrel and in the end you wouldn't have a bayonet lug.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 9:41:38 AM EDT
I bought a post ban FAR-15 with the fake flash hider and had the same problem. First beat the taper pin remove the flash hider (its designed to come off so a float tube can be installed easily) out strip the barrel and remove it from the upper. Find someone with a lathe take off about 3/4 of an inch off the barrel recrown with a 90 degree countersink reassemble the upper and permenently attach the old flash hider with appropriate braze or soder. This is what I did and so far its worked great with no dicernable loss of accuracy. The fake flash hider dosen't have the conical taper that a real one dose and I haven't night fired mine so I don't know how functional it is but it dose make the rifle look alot better.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 10:10:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/29/2006 10:14:03 AM EDT by JoshNC]
I would do as AK47Alex suggests, but have someone adapt a true flash hider to fit onto the Fulton Arms barrel. You could have them thread the muzzle, attach a true flash hider, drill the hider so that the original drift pin can be installed, and tack some weld over each side of the pin to make it permanent.
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