I have read descriptions on these in several catalogs, they both claim to enhance accuracy.  Are they for sloppy fitting match to the upper/lower, or do they really help?  I have just recently seen the tensioning pin, it replaces the upper assembly pin, with a twist of an allen wrench it puts tension on the upper and lower receiver, and I suppose the pivot pin.

Has anyone had any experience with either one of these, do they help or cause damage.

Thanks in advance,
Doug

I havent heard of the tensioning pin but I have used the accu wedge in a loose fitting rifle.  Over time they will all loosen some.  May take months may take years.  Not really a big deal either way but for a tight fit the accuwegde does help.  Takes the play between recievers out and buffers some friction between the two.  I like it but I doubt it is totally necessary.  As for accuracy I can't say.  Nothing I noticed but it is on a carbine I don't use for strict accuracy.

Both work fine to tighten up the receiver slop, but there is a cheaper solution.  Go buy an o-ring at the auto parts store that will snugly fit over the front lug of your upper receiver.  Push it up against the bottom of the upper then close the upper.  You will need to squeeze the receivers together to get the takedown pin to slip in.  Push in the rear takedown pin and presto....no more slop.  Depending on how much slop you have, use either a 1/16" or 3/32" cross-section o-ring.  With time it may deteriorate or crack, so just slip on a new one.  This is about a $.20 fix that works just as well as an accuwedge.  Tensioning pins require either a couple of allen wrenches or screw drivers to remove.  A real hassle to breakdown the gun.

First off......putting any sort of rubber piece in your rifle will make it "feel" tight. However, it will not really be tight and will still move under the recoil of the weapon.

The tension pin is a good alternative as it will not only make your upper to lower receiver fit 'feel' tight. It will be as one receiver.

Yes there is a draw back that you need to use an allen wrench and a screw driver to service and clean the rifle......but this is a very excellent piece to make your rifle squeeze out all the acuracy it can.

FYI......lots of high power shooters use the tension pin as well as a lot of USPSA and Tactical 3 gunners.

www.jprifles.com makes these pins if anyone is interested.....I believe bushmaster sells them as well .

I have a tensioning pin from JP enterprises.  It was about 40 bucks.  Very nice piece.  I haven't installed it yet.  It requires removal of the stock and they recommend lock tighting it when assembled.  It seems like a bit much and I clean my rifle often so I dont want to be breaking loose the loctite every time.  Unless I'm not envisioning the process correctly...

I will install it one of these days.  The application weapon is a BM varminter.  

Do not use loctite.....it dosen't come with it. I would npt recommend using loctite. The tension of the wedges acting against one another will keep it tight.

The instructions call for loctite.  I'll call them when I install it to be sure...

My mistake.....always follow the manufacturers instructions.

That was more of a personal opinion and what works for me.

Sorry about that.

I appreciate the feedback that I am getting to my questions, especially on the tensioning pin.  My AR is still as tight as it was when I first put it together about two years ago.  The pin sounds like it may be the best thing to try for a rifle that hasn't worn loose.  The descriptions in Brownells and Sinclair catalogs made me curious.
Thanks again,
Doug

If your rifle is still tight I would'nt worry about it.  If not and there gets to be a tiny bit of play that bugs you, go with the accuwedge or o-ring.  Though the tension pin sounds good it sounds like an expensive pain for the little accuracy you might gain.

Trubl,
You seem to have more knowlege of the tensioning pin, so I have one final question.
When using the pin, and I would want to separate the upper and lower, would I have to remove the stock, or does the tensioning pin slide on the detent rod like a regular take down pin? Or would I eliminate that detent rod. By the way, I do want all of the accuracy that I can get.  As with the 10-22, I want a semi-auto to perform nearly as well as a bolt action.

Thanks again,
Doug

Are we talking benchrest here? Or?  Just curious since your rifle is tight why you would need one.

Horick,
Not really any formal activity.  I would love to put ten 75gr bullets through a 3/8 to 1/2 inch hole though.  I will try to describe my AR.
I started out with a new Bushmaster assembled lower, put a new A2 stock and buffer and replaced the buffer spring with a Tubbs/Speedlock buffer spring, replaced the original trigger with an Armalite 2 stage, replaced the butt plate with a billet one, and I am going to try a 3 1/2 pound weight in the stock this weekend.  For the upper I bought this on E bay about 2 yrs ago, it is a DPMS with a Krieger l:7.7 stainless barrell with a
JP noisemaker fixed on the end.  This was all assembled and coated with black teflon by Metalcraft Specialties.  For optics I am using an American Redfield 3x9x50mm LE scope.

My youngest son (30) and I (59) shoot for a couple hours every Sunday afternoon, just before sunset.  The accuracy that I speak off is an interesting challenge for me, I love to shoot, it is very theraputic for me to get ready for the coming week.

I think my upper/lower is as tight as most, but it is not solid like it was on piece.  I guess what I would really like to know is have I went as far as I can with the gun, and what is left is the ammo and me.

Thanks again,
Doug

Doug, sorry it took so long to get back to you:

"When using the pin, and I would want to separate the upper and lower, would I have to remove the stock, or does the tensioning pin slide on the detent rod like a regular take down pin? Or would I eliminate that detent rod."

When using the tension pin.....you need to remove the detent pin, spring and original takedown pin.....put these in a little bag, so you can lose them all at once  :)

After that.....you do not need to seperate the upper and lower...you still use the original front pivot pin. After initial assembly, no stock removal is required, to 'open' up the rifle, all you need to do is loosen the tension pin and slide it out.

Hope this helps

Whitefang.........Sounds like a great set up for sure.  Heck there is always more you can do for your rifle[:D]  Like 90% of the folks on board here we love our rifles.  I like the accuwedge for tightening recievers and absorbing some of the "shock" from rapid firing but that's for when all I truly care about is well aimed center of mass or head shots at speed.  The tension pin sounds like a good piece for what you want and need for you setup.  It certainly won't hurt and if you can get even half an inch tighter groups then it's paid for itself IMO.

As far as shooting on the weekends as therapy for the coming week.........ahhhh!  I agree 100%  It's a wonderful thing!  Take care and let us know how you go and if a tensioning pin works.

Horik