Need some advice.  I have been reading a few bad things about titanium firing pins; is there any fact to it or is it just smoke.

I have a JP custom trigger group with speed hammer and I think it may have bent my firing pin.  My firing pin is a little bent and mangled and getting worse.  It is randomly bump firing and not controlable.  At first it was cool that is went full auto, but really it is not safe.
Wish I had a pic but i don't.

Thanks,
Tim

Are there any other performance/stronger type firing pins available, that might solve my problem?

Just get Two standard firing pins. Save the money. You also may need to check the trigger, it may be a little "light".

The stock firing pin has sense become bent and a little mangled.

Which has been causing it to slam fire.

It's bent right where the top knob meets the long shaft.  The flanges of the knob are worn and mangled.

Quoted: I have a JP custom trigger group with speed hammer and I think it may have bent my firing pin.  My firing pin is a little bent and mangled and getting worse.  It is randomly bump firing and not controlable.  At first it was cool that is went full auto, but really it is not safe.

I'm having a hard time seeing how a damaged firing pin would lead to doubling or full auto. It sounds like you've got a problem lower down in addition to your firing pin issue.

Perhaps someone with more experience than myself can explain how a damaged firing pin could cause this behavior?


ETA: Didn't see your last post before I posted. I think I understand the slamfire issue better than an issue with full auto.

Clarifying:  The "full auto" I experienced was random bursts 2-6 rounds at a time, mainly 2; it is very inconsistant; half the time it is a single shot.  I don't really know if this would qualify as slam firing.

what type of carrier you have?

I run the JP Kit in my AR with the protected firing pin type carrier. When I ran that 1/2 cir Colt POS I was bending retaining pins.

With the speed hammer you may need a carrier that protects the firing pin. I don't know if you can modify the low mass hammer and still have reliable function.

Gregory,

I am indeed running the 1/2 circle Colt. Darn Colt!

I think right now I am going to buy a couple of firing pins rather than replacing the carrier.  I found a titanium one for $25 so I'll give it a try.

Thanks a bunch for the info,
Tim

problem w. ti firing pins is, they cant take the impact loading. You will end up pirecing a primer, or breaking the tip off the firing pin rendering the gun worthless untill you change the fp.

Stick with USGI firing pins.  

I just bought a CMT carrier and bolt assy foraround 115. no more problems.  Now I have NIB NP tested bolt for a spare.

What is a happing is the rear of the speed hammer is hooking that flang on the firing pin. For the cost of a firing pin you can try and reduce the dia of that flange and see is that works. If not your only out 5 bucks.

In the trouble shooting section Tweak had/has steps you can do to fix this hammer drag issue.

I just dont know how much mass you can remove from the hammer before its mass becomes to low to get reliable primer ignition.

You need a new carrier. The reason the firing pin is bent is because the hammer is catching the firing pin collar. If you throw a Ti firing pin in there (which is more brittle than the USGI pin), it will not only break again; but it will break sooner as well.

You need a carrier with the firing pin shroud or a different hammer/trigger that works with your half-circle carrier. I'd also check to make sure you get an AR15 firing pn (smaller diameter collar) and not an M16 firing pin (larger diameter collar) if you choose not to replace your half-circle carrier.

I'd also second the opinion that you have a problem in your fire control group as well as a problem with the bent firing pin.

Quoted: Clarifying:  The "full auto" I experienced was random bursts 2-6 rounds at a time, mainly 2; it is very inconsistant; half the time it is a single shot.  I don't really know if this would qualify as slam firing.

Sounds like the disconnecter is mistimed, have you tested to see if it's firing on trigger release?  The way I test disconnecter timing is to clear the weapon and dry fire once while keeping the trigger depressed.  Now cycle the charge handle while you keep the trigger pulled.  Ok here is where I deviate from the standard disconnecter check, I take my forefinger and thumb of my weak hand and pinch the trigger finger and trigger while still holding the trigger down.  While keeping pressure on the trigger with the trigger finger I push the trigger/forefinger forward with my week hand forward as slowly as I can until the disconnecter releases the hammer.  With this technique I can feel the timing of the disconnecter, makes it pretty easy to tell if you have early timing.  On the JP setup you want the very latest disconnecter timing that will consistently release the hammer.

titanium firing pins, forget about em, they are easier to bend and peen out of shape and they can cause inconsistant primer ignition.

All those titanium firing pins, special carriers, speed hammers, all that crap....


sounds like a great solution looking for a problem.

I very rarely see a stock AR fuck up until someone decides to "improve" it with titanium firing pins et. al.

If you broke your stock firing pin, get a new one.  Parts wear out, it's part of the game.