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Posted: 1/5/2006 7:30:44 AM EDT
Since I can Make up my mind I decided to build all 3 first off, 1.) Bushmaster lower, LMT upper with a 14.5" Barrel 1-9 twist chrome lined full heavy barrel, either custom if I can get it or a Bushmaster my question first question are Bushmasters barrels cut with the M4 cuts? I'm also thinking of doing it mid length but I'm not sure of how that would look on a 14.5 barrel, Phanotm flash hider permantly pinned. 2.) Same as above but but 16" mid full heavy barrel without the front sight. Who makes a good gas block to go with? 3.) A SPR 18" or 20" but there I'm sure not sure which length which would you experts advise? For stocks one will be a Vltor and the other will be a LMT SOPMOD, the mid length wil use Larue forarm and the 14.5 will use a LMT forened? I do have another question though how hard is it to set up a gas block as I have never done this before or should I get it ready to go? For the SPR I will probably just order the upper from Angus Arms. I did decide against buying a DSARMS upper with the gas piston (just to be different) as it sure seems alot of cash for not a whole lot more gain. Well let me know what you experts think.
Thanks,
Mike
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 7:44:31 AM EDT
sounds nice if not a bit optimistic for someone who hasn't installed a gas block before <--not a flame by the way.

1) BM barrels have standard feed cuts.
2) mid-length would look fine on a 14.5" and IMO mid length gas systems are the way to go. Easier cycling, lower pressures.
3) do a search for gas blocks, are manufactured by many companies.
4) I like an 18" barrel as some argue that the velocity gains with a 20" aren't worth the extra length. BTW: length doesn't translate to accuracy i.e. longer doesn't mean more accurate.
5) I wasn't aware that LMT made a forend


gas blocks are relatively easy to install:

gas tube slides right in...is secured by a small roll pin. Align barrel port with port on gasblock (while inserting gas tube into upper receiver) and set screw or "taper pin" in place. And there you have it.

of course, the removal of old FSBs with taper pins can be a real pain in the ass. Taper Pins are driven out to the ejection port side of the rifle (can only be driven out to one side...hence "taper" pins). You'll need a heavy duty steel punch (brass won't hold up IMO) and a medium weight hammer, lots of patience, and elbow grease.

Good luck! Building your own Ar is the wayt to go.
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 8:29:53 AM EDT
I dont know if LMT makes a forend either I was just looking at one LMT upper with a barrel assy. in a add and it looked pretty cool. I have done a few ARS back in the day and always built on Bushy setups but now I'm ready to plunge in further, what the heck right? I have done lots of fabrication in the past as I have built alot of custom cars over the years so I have the punches and tools. Cant be any worse than trying to make some of the "bolts right on parts" fit cars.. LOL... Patience is one thing I learned from all of that. I kknow its optimistic but the way I figure it if I can do one every coupla months I will be finished by June? Has anyone have any experince with Angus Arms? Is there any draw back to not having the M4 mods? Thanks for the input!
Mike
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 8:39:03 AM EDT

Originally Posted By mstennes:
I dont know if LMT makes a forend either I was just looking at one LMT upper with a barrel assy. in a add and it looked pretty cool. I have done a few ARS back in the day and always built on Bushy setups but now I'm ready to plunge in further, what the heck right? I have done lots of fabrication in the past as I have built alot of custom cars over the years so I have the punches and tools. Cant be any worse than trying to make some of the "bolts right on parts" fit cars.. LOL... Patience is one thing I learned from all of that. I kknow its optimistic but the way I figure it if I can do one every coupla months I will be finished by June? Has anyone have any experince with Angus Arms? Is there any draw back to not having the M4 mods? Thanks for the input!
Mike



after building your first, the rest will be a cake walk. Sounds as though you've done enough in the past...that you are mechanically inclined...I say go for it. You get to pick the parts you want, put it together the way you want it, and possibly save some money.

As for the M4 "improvements". The only things that differentiate and M4 from a std. carbine are: M4 cuts in the receiver...implemented by Clot so they could patent the design/name.
If you shoot full auto, you MIGHT need them (according to Clot, the top rounds in a mag bounce around during FA and cause misfeeds-whatever) ...otherwise don't worry about them. Using good mags will cure most if not all your ills.
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 8:39:32 AM EDT
My thoughts are as follows.

Build one, and then figure your next build after that is complete.
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 9:29:30 AM EDT
Why a Bushmaster lower and LMT upper? Why not use Bushmaster or LMT for both upper and lower? I have owned both and the only reason I can think of is you must have some kind of assault weapon ban in WA and Bushmaster is preban?
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 10:16:45 AM EDT

Originally Posted By DevL:
I have owned both and the only reason I can think of is you must have some kind of assault weapon ban in WA and Bushmaster is preban?




No such ban in WA state.
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 12:46:22 PM EDT
No reason on Bushmaster other than I have real good friend who owns a gun shop here and hes all set up with Bushmaster so getting the lowers are a phone call away whereas he has never done business with LMT so he would have to set it up and I'm the type when I decide to do it I want to do it now and not wait. I have always used Bushmaster and never had any issues with them, unlike when I have tried Olympic Arms I have never had anything but problems with them I tried 3 times and each time was a different problem so I figured 3 stirkes your out. I didnt know LMT made lowers how are they?
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