Quoted: First, from what I have read so far, most uppers and lowers will fit, although some may need minor adjustments, and work together fine. Kind of like a 1911. Am I understanding this?
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if you ignore Colt, pretty much every lower and upper will just swap right on. Colt has a problem selling standard uppers and lowers to the general public, so they have used at various times pins that are not what everyone else uses.
Next, you can buy a rifle several ways..... A complete rifle An upper and lower Stripped upper and lowers with parts kits I know that the complete rifle will probably be the most expensive way to go.
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It can be. You can get out of paying the excise tax by building from parts. You can also get a gun that is exactly what you want. As a newbie, I suggest buying a complete rifle for your first one to sidestep all of the "my homebuilt doesn't run right" problems.
How much $$ can be saved buying a complete rifle as opposed to upper and lower, as opposed to stripped upper and lowers with parts kits? Just would like a basic comparison to see where the differences are.
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If your time has no value, you can certainly save quite a bit building from parts. I choose to "build" my rifles by buying them complete, or buying an upper and a lower.
Next, barrel twists and lenghts. Basically speaking, is 1:7 bette rthan 1:6, or better than 1:8 on the same lenght barrel?
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better how? in general, the right twist is a matter of the velocity and mass of the projectile you're using. To put it another way, you could pick a load (say, SS109 or similar) and find the "best" twist for it. Ignoring outliers like beanfield rifles, 1:9 works well for most commercial ammo.
Also, for my purposes, a 16" or 18" barrel would be best. What twist works best with this barrel lenght?
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again, it's more a function of what you want to use the rifle for. I suggest you find some people that have ARs in configurations like the ones you're considering and try them out. No point buying a kickass $800 upper if you're going to be shooting Wolf at 25 yards. YMMV.
As far as a couple option go, what is preferred? I assume back-up iron sights, as posted on here. Do all styles come with the military-style adjustable elevation and windage knobs?
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There are two main types of upper - with and without carry handle. Those without a carry handle usually don't come with a rear sight. You'll need a BUIS if you wish for that option. Personally, I use reflex optics and don't keep the iron sights.
What is preferred as far as the carrying handle goes? Do they both mount scopes?
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Mounting optics on a carry handle is problematic, as you end up with two cheek welds to learn. You can get a cantilever mount from several manufacturers to get around this. It's more a training issue. I prefer not using carry handle mounted optics. That said, I have a rifle in just that configuration. I just don't prefer it.
From what I read, RRA and DPMS are reputible manufacturers. Would I be a fool to purchase say, Bushmaster or Colt parts when others are availoable for less? Are they all pretty much equal parts?
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ABCDR - Armalite, Bushmaster, Colt, DPMS, RRA. Stick with any of those and you're fine. Everything else is a religious argument I'm not touching.
Thanks for taking the time to answer a few questions. I have many handguns, but want to start exploring with ARs, and have no experience building or assembling. Rob
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HTH