User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 10/2/2005 9:21:10 PM EDT
[#1]
im thinkin the same thing, of course this would be the last resort type deal, if all else fails. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2005 9:23:41 PM EDT
[#2]
Instead of using a full-length dowl rod, cut it into 4-6" pieces and tap on it from there.
When using a full-length rod, it will flex inside the barrel when tapped, but by cutting it into ~6" sections and dropping each section in on top each other, the rods don't flex & all the force gets transferred directly to the bullet. Also, pour in some Kroil oil, which is penetrating by nature & should free it up. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2005 10:23:37 PM EDT
[#3]
Might I make a suggestion? Pull the barrell then you can get a pair of vise grips on the case head, you can then tap on the vise grips or wrost comes too worst crush it so you can turn the casing and get it out.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2005 10:45:56 PM EDT
[#4]
 I bet if it was either Winchester or Federal you would be calling the Poster names...
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2005 10:49:00 PM EDT
[#5]
TAG
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2005 10:53:14 PM EDT
[#6]
keep us updated, let us know how it turns out
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 4:07:04 AM EDT
[#7]
hope you get it out , will keep checking in
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 4:30:28 AM EDT
[#8]
No idea if this would work, but would putting the upper in a freezer help contract the case a bit? I'm thinking the case is wedged in so tight if you could use some thermal help to get it to contract some, then maybe you would have success tapping it out. Just a thought -- I aint aint a gunsmith and I don't play one on TV.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 4:30:41 AM EDT
[#9]
pull the barrel off the upper before continuing. you'll be able to secure the barrel alone much easier.
one big problem is the case is a lot shorter than 5.56 so there isn't as much to grab. worst problem is the neck is lot longer so it's up in the rifling right now. no amount of pounding on the FA would do this folks, the case is shorter, check the dims yourself, it's a drop in fit.   if you can kill the powder charge you can drill out the primer (it'll pop) and use an EzeOut |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 4:41:26 AM EDT
[#10]
NA
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 4:44:27 AM EDT
[#11]
Pulling with vice-grips might be a good idea....but crushing the case head? Not sure I would be comfortable doing that with a live primer between the jaws ! I would think that it would be safer to file some flats into the case rim and then try to turn it.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 4:49:44 AM EDT
[#12]
You might try to remove it with high pressure air through a rubber tipped air gun! It usually works on frozen wheel cylinder pistons, maybe it will work for you! Good Luck!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 4:56:00 AM EDT
[#13]
Ask your friend what he wants to do with the barrel, as it looks like he just bought one.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 5:10:26 AM EDT
[#14]
Stop risking serious danger to yourslf. It is just not worth it....
Send the upper off to a qualified gunsmith and have them work on it. If it can't be repaired, they can install a new barrel and send her right back. No big deal. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 5:40:16 AM EDT
[#15]
Yeah, words at the moment can't describe my anger right now, but I'll let that slide to focus on what I can do to somehow save this thing.
It's an original Colt CMPC 1/12" M16A1 barrel, and I'm not sure how easily I would find a replacement, not to mention having to pay a gunsmith to replace the barrel, and paying a gunsmith to try to work on getting the round out. Will save this thread and keep it updated this week with what the gunsmith says. not to mention I have a test trigger kit on the way from another member wanting to market a new trigger kit. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 5:43:04 AM EDT
[#16]
get the barrel off, there is a good chance you can pull it with a flat bladed screwdriver or two.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 5:52:41 AM EDT
[#17]
Also, I feel better (although the situation is worse) that it was not the fault of the ammo (as usual with wolf stories). I've always liked their products, and have been a cleaning freak so have never had any problem with their ammunition. I think my main problem was that I was shooting XM193 for me (I care about accuracy) and letting my friend, who had never shot before shoot up my bag of wolf. Maybe if I had let him shoot up my brass he wouldn't of made that mistake.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 5:58:42 AM EDT
[#18]
Tagged to see the end result and to read all the Wolf defenders comments.
Still can't find where you were able to eliminate the ammo as the problem. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:01:13 AM EDT
[#19]
besides the part about it being a 5.45 in a 5.56 chamber?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:02:32 AM EDT
[#20]
 man, if I had used real Russian 7ns (or whatever they call it) I'm sure the same thing would of happened. wolf hatred is like a cult in here. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:07:16 AM EDT
[#21]
Wolf hatred isn't unfounded. It reproves itself on a pretty regular basis. I use it, but minimally. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:07:34 AM EDT
[#22]
Yep. "give me a lever big enough..." |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:13:38 AM EDT
[#23]
Before you put all the blame on the newbie at the range remember the Wolf factory can be partially at fault here. One day at the range I opened a box of .223 Wolf and low and behold there was one round of 5.45 in the box. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:16:10 AM EDT
[#24]
Had a few of these situations come into my bud's gun shop. Use a cleaning rod ,anyone will pretty much work and let it free drop into the bore , shouldnt take much pressure from the front. Most Ar's dont like wolf; in fact id say 85% depending on your twist rate. they are too tight chambered and are steel jacket with a poly coating to boot. Its worth the extra 60 bucks per 1000 not to mess up your gun.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:28:28 AM EDT
[#25]
I've used thousands of rounds of wolf with no problems. Well, no ammo related problems. Must remember to clean rifle every 2000 rounds or so to maintain function.
 If you can get the powder out of the case, and shove the bullet back into it, that would probably allow you to push the case out with a dowel. Right now I imagine the bullet is still just seated further back in the neck, and is causing the neck to be wedged tight against the rifling. If the bullet is shoved back further(powder must obviously be removed first, after being deactivated, by drilling/removing case head) it should relieve that pressure, and only the weak steal case will be holding against the rifling, and it should give way pretty easily. Although I've never had this exact situation, only a stuck bullet, and a stuck fired case once.  It's a sucky situation you have. Half the fun of shooting is letting others try your guns, but this kind of thing is always the risk. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:44:28 AM EDT
[#26]
You could try putting it in a vice outdoors in a safe location, and manually discharge the round using a punch and a hammer.
Kinda crazy but it just might work, and if your lucky the recoil will blow the casing back out! 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:46:33 AM EDT
[#27]
AKA "Methyl Ethyl Bad-Stuff" to HazMat.... that's some nasty shit if you don't watch it. Read the safety instructions SEVERAL TIMES and follow them to the letter. It ought to do the job, but be careful that it doesn't do a job on you.... 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:54:06 AM EDT
[#28]
if you could somehow get the primer out without discharging it, a stuck case removing tool they use for reloading dies should be able to yank the case out
If the bullet is pushed into the case, pour water or wd 40 down the barrel to kill the powder or shake the upper up and down to sprinkle the powder out Then whack the primer, drill and tap to yank it out, then drill and tap the flash hole, thread a bolt thru it and yank the sombitch out. Of course since this may result in personal injury or death I'd be afraid to try it ETA: another possibility, can you put water down the barrel then with a tight fitting rod, whack the rod and use hydraulic pressure to force it out? |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:55:33 AM EDT
[#29]
New Wolf has polymer coating not lacquer, I have had no problems. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 6:57:32 AM EDT
[#30]
Please send it to me I will pay shipping, I'll Pm with my address. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:02:00 AM EDT
[#31]
So its not my Wolfie, yeh!! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:03:37 AM EDT
[#32]
Man, sorry to hear about this.
Good luck. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:05:56 AM EDT
[#33]
no it's not. and no, I couldn't set off the round now, because a jammed part of a cleaning rod is now imbedded inside the bore probably mushroomed over the bullet. Firing it would most likely cause a KBoom and for sure ruin the barrel/upper. out of curiosity I'd love to run this thing though a xray machine like they have at the airport and see what the situation of the casing, bullet and cleaning rod are. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:07:17 AM EDT
[#34]
Sucks man, hope you get it worked out. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:08:05 AM EDT
[#35]
Here are a couple of things that can be done.
1. the end of the barrel or know that the bullet is inside the case) Flush with hot water to get most of the oil out and dry it out with air. remove the barrel and put it in an oven (house hold type) and take it up to 450/500 deg. and let cool. The case should come out fairly easy then by tapping it out. At this temperature it should relieve the brass. 2. if you have a threaded barrel, have a threaded plug made that will screw on the barrel and a grease fitting on the end. Using a grease gun, pump full of grease and it will come out. A grease gun can produce a lot of pressure (10,000 psi). This may even work if you can get the barrel about half full of grease and use a good tight cleaning patch on a jag and then hitting the rod with a rubber hammer. The grease will transfer the energy better that the long rod will. 3. All else fails, send it to me and I will get it out ETA:Here is another one I just came up with. Remove the barrel. If you have not managed to kill the powder, a small hole can be drilled either in the case if it can be reached or next to the primer in the case. Kill the powder/primer with water. Drill out the primer and tap for case puller. You can tap it 1/4-20 and use a bolt and a small flat bar that has been drill 1/4" and block it up off the barrel extension. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:12:08 AM EDT
[#36]
Are you in Houston? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:17:24 AM EDT
[#37]
Victoria
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:18:21 AM EDT
[#38]
Pumping the barrel up with pressure from the muzzle will do little if you con't close off the gas port. You will jsut have a gas tube full of grease.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:20:23 AM EDT
[#39]
 Why not take it to the local airport and see if the TSA can oblige you. You may even get a free set of shiny new bracelets.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:23:55 AM EDT
[#40]
Rotate and retighten the gas block
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:25:00 AM EDT
[#41]
|
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:27:11 AM EDT
[#42]
Do you write commercials for Vonage? Woo hoo woo hoo hoo... 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:30:57 AM EDT
[#43]
It's not that crazy of an Idea, but it would be too much of a risk, especially since there was a good chance the bullet was pushed down into the casing and at an angle with the tip pointing towards the neck of the chamber (headspace) and a KBoom would probably happen. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 7:55:07 AM EDT
[#44]
MM,
Give me a call. Or IM me if you do not have my phone number. The Houston Crew may have to have a movie night at my places and we can work on this. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 8:11:30 AM EDT
[#45]
Sounds simple and safe enough in theory... just like knocking down a bees nest into a garbage can... woo hoo woo hoo hoo...
|
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 8:14:23 AM EDT
[#46]
The ignorance of some of the folks responding to this thread is astounding. 1) Wolf lacquer does not "melt and coat your chamber and then causes the case to glue itself in there", or whatever reasoning you like to use. People have taken a blow torch to the case, and there has been no melted lacquer. I have done several mag dumps through my non-chrome barreled AR, and then left a round of Wolf in the chamber. It extracted without a problem. If the lacquer melts, the case gluing itself into the chamber would be a repeatable experiment, and it would do so in everyone's rifle. 2) Wolf does not function in everyone's rifle. True enough. At least most of the malfunctions have been from annoyances (FTE, short cycling, or something minor), but I have not heard of a single catastrophic problem involving Wolf. 3) Combloc armies the world over used "lacquer" coated ammo for decades, and curiously enough, they didn't have these problems in their full-auto weapons. Now granted, the case dimensions on commie weapons are different, and most of theirs are more tapered than the .223, but even so - lacquer melting would have jammed their weapons as well. My guess is that most of the time when a case gets stuck in the chamber, that it's due to the non-tapered chamber dimensions of .223/5.56 rifles, along with variations in case roughness, and somewhat higher firction of the steel cased ammo that's the culprit. In this particular case, it was obviously MauserMark's buddy that deserves a bitch-slap. I think I ended up with a 7.62x39 round in an AR mag one time. Don't know how I managed to load that up. Thankfully, the 7.62x39 is way too big to chamber.
|
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 8:26:49 AM EDT
[#47]
 I should probably go buy a lottery ticket right now then, huh? I personally have 4 AR's that have run on wolf without a hitch, and my brother has 2 AR's that run really well with it too. I do have the occasional stuck round in one non-chrome-lined chamber, but I attribute that to my poor cleaning habits, not Wolf (it has done it FAR more with Q3131a, i.e. 4rds out of one box). Get back under your bridge, troll  WIZZO |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 8:30:20 AM EDT
[#48]
tag
Maybe ask over on the AK side...They tend to be more skilled with big hammers! |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 8:57:35 AM EDT
[#49]
Okay here are some other options. All but one are Colt SP1/M16 complete uppers. The CDNN ones have the best prices. So if you want to just put this away for now and put another upper on you'll be able to use your rifle again. This is probably the safest and cheapest way to go.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=38119473 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=119&t=296205 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=119&t=299379 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=22&t=300159 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=22&t=300157 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=22&t=299559 http://www.cdnninvestments.com/arsp1upnewco.html http://www.cdnninvestments.com/ara1upasusgi.html http://www.cdnninvestments.com/coara1upasus.html |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2005 9:03:49 AM EDT
[#50]
Absolutely not. NO. No buying of new uppers or parts.
This is simply a matter of force and Friction. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
