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Posted: 10/14/2003 2:36:27 AM EDT
Which one do you think is the better do it yourself finish for a COLT lower receiver. ALUMAHYDE II or Brownells TEFLON/MOLY(Oven Bake finish). And what can you recommend as the best method of preparation. Can I just sand it down and wipe it with lacquer thinner before painting? Thanks.
Link Posted: 10/14/2003 5:19:29 AM EDT
dont know about the teflon/moly but the alumahyde is very durable stuff....IF ITS APPLIED PROPERLY ! make sure the can and the parts are warm before/while spraying (about 90-100 deg)....i would try steel wool and a mild mixture of simple green....make sure everything is completely dry and thoroughly degreased...if there is any oil or water residue at all it wont stick and youll end up with spots that come off...a lightly roughed up finish also helps...bead blasting is best but if you dont have a bead blaster fine steel wool will do....if you put it on right i can attest its some nasty sh*t to get off ! oh i wouldnt get too much inside either it does build up a little...and make sure to give it at least several days to a week to cure...and if your finish is in that bad of shape dont worry it seems to like raw aluminum best...
Link Posted: 10/14/2003 5:35:22 AM EDT
I refinshed several things with a can of Brownells Teflon-Moly. It did very good on items that had worn off blueing, good on stainless steel, and OK a aluminum G.I. magazine. All items were cleaned with acetone and preheated according to instructions. In fairness the AR mag was bright silver. It's a range mag.
Link Posted: 10/14/2003 6:07:07 AM EDT
Here's a pic of my M16 where I had painted the flash hider, delta ring, and the upper receiver using Duracoat from [url]http://www.lauerweaponry.com/[/url]. I think it turned out extremely well. I've only shot one magazine through it, but I'm extremely pleased with the hardness and resistance to chipping so far. There were some small "nicks" in the paint (after shooting it) causing a lighter color, but they became invisible once I applied CLP and wiped it off. The color used was Colt Gray and it matches the lower quite well. You can do a professional looking job with good prep work, attention to detail, and patience. If you don't have an airbrush, LCW sells a disposable aerosol sprayer that screws on a glass jar and it does a great job. I did not sand blast it and only used acetone to wipe it down. I then baked it for the specified time. I didn't shoot it for a few weeks after that as I wanted to give it more time to cure. I think it's a good product worth considering. Dan [img]http://home.ix.netcom.com/~brownhen/_uimages/XM177E2wduracoat50.JPG[/img]
Link Posted: 10/14/2003 1:34:34 PM EDT
I've used the Aluma-Hyde II also. It works really well and wears great. It adds thickness, so any wear points wil wear off, such as a pump shotgun, rifle bolt, etc. On the AR lower, no problems. The bake on will be slightly lighter than the non bake. You can bake the Aluma-Hyde II to cure it faster, or hang it in a hot attic for 2-4 days. I've never removed old finishes, just degreased well and a final rub with alcohol. Follow the directions on the can and it will turn out great. On anything thing I've done with the matte black has always had some gloss to it, baked or not. I would go with the baking laquer for a more flat appearance. Mark
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