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Posted: 8/30/2003 8:32:56 AM EDT
NOTE: I posted in the "Maintenance & Cleaning" section, but there's not alot of traffic there which is why I'm posting here.

I'm wanting to remove the roll pin so I can clean the ejector channel, replace the ejector spring and ejector itself.

I've got the Brownell tool that attaches to the front of the bolt and depresses the ejector. I've also tried tapping out the pin without the tool, but no luck.

1/16" punch is now broken, various nails are bent, and the pin has only moved slightly.

Any help/suggestions?

Thanks! .... Chris
Link Posted: 8/30/2003 9:10:20 AM EDT
Don't know what the Brownells tool looks like, but the Sinclair tool works like a champ. It looks like a little vise that depresses the ejector. That said, I have a collection of broken 1/16" punches. Sometimes they are a bear to get out. I have go so far as drilling one out ....
Link Posted: 8/30/2003 10:55:03 AM EDT
Originally Posted By MartytW: Don't know what the Brownells tool looks like, but the Sinclair tool works like a champ. It looks like a little vise that depresses the ejector. That said, I have a collection of broken 1/16" punches. Sometimes they are a bear to get out. I have go so far as drilling one out ....
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It's the bolt ejector tool: [img]http://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/080792100.jpg[/img] So it looks like this happens, and the fact that you drilled one out is good info to me. Looks like I'm headed to Home Depot to get a drill bit. Thanks for the reply! .... Chris
Link Posted: 8/30/2003 1:27:32 PM EDT
If you are going to be an AR Armorer, you need extra 1/16" punches. I like the roll pin punches and the mini punches from Brownells. Also their replaceable pin punch where you can have just a little stub sticking out. Removing the ejector retaining pin is half energy delivered to the pin with a proper punch, and half supporting the bolt from the underside with an armorer's bench block. I like the nylon ones, also from Brownells. Once you get a new assortment of different 1/16" punches,try driving out the pin from the otherside, unless you already have moved it a little from you original attack position. The plunger depressing gizmos are good for re-installation, but should not be necessary for removal. Just cover the front of the bolt when you withdraw the punch so you can catch the plunger because it is really spring loaded. I like the Sinclair modle plunger depressor the best because I like the way you can clamp in a machinst vice. Always use a new roll pin when you re-install if you can. Plan ahead, also have a spare plunger and spring in case they "spring lost" on you. Same is true for like when you remove the buttstock--have spares of these little spring loaded parts before dissaembly. Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/30/2003 1:46:30 PM EDT
Originally Posted By coldblue: Removing the ejector retaining pin is half energy delivered to the pin with a proper punch, and half supporting the bolt from the underside with an armorer's bench block.
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I took this statement from your post, put my new 1/16" punch from Lowe's into the pin, and damned if it didn't come out! Thanks to ALL of you for your help .... Chris
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