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Posted: 5/28/2003 7:05:03 PM EDT
Just finished assemblying my Bushmaster 16" Dissapator with an A1 upper. Planned use is for marine (sailing all over the open seas) in self defense. This weapon must be reliable and I have been the potential victim of marine piracy on three occasions in my life (I am 40). Anyway, through the great posts on AR15.COM -> Amunition, I have determined that 5.56 M193 Ball is the best ammo for my situation. All my gear is completely within the law as I must pass through Customs as I travel from the US to the Bahamas to the Dry Tortugas, Nassa, etc.

I wish for my new Bushy to be the most trustworthy tool and perform perfectly. I wish to break in this carbine according to the reccomendations of the publication "The M15/AR15 Rifle" a Shooter's and Collector's Guide by Joe Poyer.

After reading his recommendations for break-in, I am starting to think that I could be doing wrong to my weapon system by firering .233 ammo through it when it is really desinged for the 5.56 NATO. I will also need to purchase ammo from several foreign countries.

Anyway, my question is: does it cause any loss in accuracy by using both .223 and 5.56 x 45 ammo in the same barrel (especially durring break-in)? I have acquired a good lot of .223 and am now worried about using it.

Thanks in advanced for your deep knowledge of this awsome weapons system.

Live long and in defense of you and your family...

Link Posted: 5/28/2003 7:20:02 PM EDT
[url]ammo-oracle.com[/url]
Link Posted: 5/28/2003 7:29:57 PM EDT
[url=http://www.bushmaster.com/faqs/barrels-accuracy.asp#Q.%20What%20is%20the%20proper%20"break-in"%20procedure%20for%20a%20chrome%20lined%20­AR%20barrel?]Click here for Bushmaster's recommended chrome lined barrel break-in procedure.[/url] Don't know if it's any different than the one in the collector's guide. Since the .223 is a little short for the NATO chamber, it will loss some velocity. The .223 spec is also not loaded as hot as the M193 ball. However, I don't believe it will "slow" down the break-in process.
Link Posted: 5/28/2003 7:40:14 PM EDT
Thank you Orange_Neck, appreciate your reply... Drive fast and slied around the turns...
Link Posted: 5/29/2003 12:05:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/29/2003 12:10:43 PM EDT by A_Free_Man]
Barrel breakin: Clean your rifle well before you first shoot it to remove any residual grime that may have accumulated during shipping to you. Then go to the range and shoot however many rounds you want to shoot that day, and return home and clean normally. That is all the break in you need. The .223 Rem and 5.56 have the same dimensions. There is a very slight difference in the throat of the barrel. 5.56 ammo is loaded slightly hotter than .223. You may safely shoot either in your AR15, regardless of whether 5.56 or .223 are marked on the receiver or barrel. Check this out: www.armalite.com Enter the site by clicking at the top. Now, on this main page, over on the left, click Technical Notes. Read Technical Note #45, which deals with the .223/5.56 issue, or rather, non-issue in my opinion. You should read #51, ammo selection. Also look at #11, Headspace. These notes are also downloadable in Word format, and you may wish to get all of them for later reading.
Link Posted: 5/29/2003 2:13:55 PM EDT
I'd love to hear about the other close calls that you have had out on the water. The most important thing you can do is shoot that baby as much as you can so that you know it will work before putting it up in storage until the day it is needed. Two hundred flawless rounds is a good starting point. What lube are you using? Get the big black and yellow can of Breakfree CLP at Walmart, other sporting goods or auto stores. It's great stuff and your rifle will be in a harsher than normal environment with the salt air and mist. How many mags do you have for it? I think six mags loaded to 28 rounds each is a good load to carry with more the merrier. You don't have to down load the mags less those two rounds, but when it has to work and they sit for long periods of time loaded it's just good insurance. Lube the magazine springs with CLP. They could be the first things to rust. If at all possible get some tracers and have one of those mags loaded with them. Give that mag a patch of red tape or paint on the base plate to identify the mag at a quick glance. I'd guess the bad guys will have large outboards with exposed fuel tanks and tracers and gas are such a good combination. You want to get away, not have WWIII on the high seas. I don't see you in a tactical vest with your docksides on, so go to EBAY and search MOLLE. Find a six pocket magazine molle bandolier that will go over the shoulder. Another thought that comes to mind is that there's not much cover from incoming rounds on a boat. Some kevlar (helmet and vest) would be a good idea, but not really practical in storage space terms and maybe not legal outside of the US of A. So prepare yourself on the chance of taking an incoming round if the SHTF. A good medic kit with some Qwick Clot may be advised. It's a blood colagulating (sp?)powder that stops rapid blood loss. Gets dumped right in the wound and direct pressure is then applied. Nice rifle you picked out and .223 or 5.56 will run like a champ in your Bushmaster. -Mark
Link Posted: 5/29/2003 3:23:18 PM EDT
While I do feel there is some merit in breaking in an AR barrel (which puts me in a definite minority here), Poyer’s method strikes me as overkill. If I’m counting correctly, you wind up cleaning your AR 38 times while shooting a total of 200 rounds!! I think maybe half that would be enough. I’d suggest that once you clean it a couple of times with no apparent copper residue, you consider the barrel broken in and forget it! Breaking in a barrel supposedly helps with accuracy and ease of cleaning. I wouldn’t think it would have anything to do with reliability. After all, the military doesn’t break in their M16’s. I can’t see why shooting .223 ammo in your Bushy’s .556 chamber would cause any problems. (I will disagree a bit with [b]A_Free_Man[/b] on the opposite. I have had, on rare occasion, reliability problems with .556 ammo in a .223 chamber and don’t feel such a setup is well suited for self-defense. However, that’s a hot round in a tight chamber, your situation is the exact reverse.) Maybe you’ve already thought of this, but in your situation I’d definitely get a pretty comprehensive AR spare parts kit.
Link Posted: 5/29/2003 4:19:30 PM EDT
Exactly what A Free Man said... Barrel break in is total and absolute BS. Just make sure its clean before you shoot it. http://snipercountry.com/Articles/Barrel_BreakIn.htm LittleJacek
Link Posted: 5/29/2003 4:48:57 PM EDT
Thank you A_Free_Man - a good response to my question and I now feel informed...
Link Posted: 5/29/2003 4:57:52 PM EDT
Thanks to mk1iii and to 199. You both offer experiance and wisdom. To mk1iii: I need to document the three experiances I have had - they keep comming up and I have told the stories many times. I now realize that I need a text version so that I can email at will. I am not prepaired to do that now, but I will and I promise to copy you all. Please email me your email address to: scott@sthillier.com
Link Posted: 5/29/2003 5:14:53 PM EDT
scottsthillier- Just curious about what happened. I like to know how it happened incase I'm ever in a similiar situation. Just post it here it would be alot easier than emailing us all. -Mark
Link Posted: 5/30/2003 3:16:16 PM EDT
Does your rifle have a chrome lined chamber and barrel? If so, then the ONLY break in you need is to hit the range and shoot several hundred rounds in order to make sure there are no assembly issues with your new rifle. Any new rifle is fairly tight and needs a few hundred rounds to break all the parts in. Unless you are going to shoot you AR in NRA high power or other organized rifle matches, the 'break in' of the barrel really isn't necessary. Break in procedures are designed to give ultra tight, air guaged, stainless or chrome molly steel barrels the utmost accuracy.
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