Are there any?  I am very pleased with my Bushy 20 inch.  BUT, the forward weight is not great.  I know Kurt can turn it down to the A2 profile, or even just down under the hand guards, to get rid of the extra weight.  Its cheap and I think i might do it.  Any reason not to do it?

Jeff D.

No reason not to do it - Heck I did it.

BTW for an HBAR to A2 he only turns down under the handguards.

No.  Just go for it.  I love the Govt Profile barrels.  The HBARs are an easy way for companies to cut costs on manufacturing.  

MaX

Are there any accuracy problems caused by stressing your barrel during the trimming process?  Any induced stress will become more apparent as the barrel heats up leading to a greater lack of consistancy between a cold bore and a warm bore.

Only reason I can think of is because you have an A2 profile already and you like carrying around the HB as part of your weight training program [:)]

I love my HBAR, the weight makes it feel like a real rifle and IMO, aids in stability in offhand shooting. Better thermal stability over more shots is also a +.

Why spend money to gain only a weight reduction but to lose on a couple other areas.

SorryOciffer

How about this one? You dont have any money to do it.
GG

This is great.

I've just tonight thought about this myself.
This thread will be perfect to get this figured out.

So what's the Pro's of a HBAR over an A2?

I thought the main reason behind HBAR was to handle the higher temps in hot weather and fully auto fire.

For our civilian applications, is there a con to turning down the barrel to A2 weight?

Only the possibility of warping the barrel during the process. Barrel fluting is the same way. I wouldn't recommend it. Better to sell the upper you have and get another. Shorter heavier barrels are far more accurate than long skinny barrels.

Could you please explain further?

So this processes should be avoided due to possibility of gunsmith error?



How do you figure?

Do you mean they don't loose their "structure" quicker under high heat situations?

While in theory I beleive you are correct, it is a mute point, I don't see a civilian reaching that threashold.

A heavier barrel may be more accurate than a thinner barrel due to flex and harmonics, but the plain ole truth is that 99.99% of the people will never be able to shoot well enough to ever see a difference.  Throw iron sights into the picture, and you may never see a difference.  Typical 100 yard or less shooting  and it isn't going to matter.  

Does 1/2" @ 100 yards matter that much to you when compared to weight savings?  If it does, then leave things as they are.  Most people will benefit much more from a weapon that is easier to carry, and quicker to point in on target.

Thinner = quicker to heat up

3 mags rapid fire through my M4 barrel gets me a VERY hot barrel.  The same thing through my fatboy gets me a warm barrel.

turn it down till it looks like a MacDonalds soda straw, you idiot!

Please see these links for info on barrel fluting:
http://www.charm.net/~kmarsh/fluting.html
http://www.probed2000.com/flute.htm
http://www.fulton-armory.com/fluting.htm

Please draw your own conclusions, but for me, I wouldn't bother.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll get to reading here soon.

Crap I have to do the Thanksgiving thing soon.

I think DOA has misread my post.  I am talking about turning the HBAR down to a smaller diameter like the military profile barrels.  This results in a circular cross section but one of less than the almost 1 inch that the civilian HBARs have.  The thing I have understood about HBARs is that they are more of a cost issue for civy weapons as it saves the manufacturer money to skip a few machining steps.  

What DOA is pointing to is [b]fluting[/b].  this is a process of cutting grooves the length of the barrel and gives you a star-ish barrel cross section when done.  That is NOT what I am looking to do.  The links provided discuss fluting not barrel profile.

On the issue of gunsmith mistakes and possible barrel warping I don't see this as a problem so long as you use a competent 'smith who can set up a metal lathe and use cutting oil.  I understand the concern, but don't see it as a barrier.

I appreciate all the comments.  I'm gonna buy a second upper and get it profiled.

Jeff

Yes turning and fluting are 2 different ideas with similar results.

Turning is taking the dia. of a barrel, and making it smaller, simple as that.

HBAR down to A2 profile.

You can do a combination of both if you chose.

Kurt does turning and fluting UNDER the handguards only if you like.

Doing this under the handguards makes me think that it's a middle ground between both extremes.

I posted the info on fluting as it has the same effects of the barrel as turning down a barrel. My question is, though, what cost are you looking at, and is their a big diff in weight savings? Couldn't you just buy another barrel with the diameter you seek?
I'd be real curious what Kurt says about this, since he does this for a living.

This thread has some answers.

[url]http://ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=44&t=138474&w=searchPop[/url]

And kurts website with prices is here.
[url]http://www.kurtskustomfirearms.citymax.com/catalog/item/29585/1132.htm[/url]

This is what it says.


I could buy another upper to do this to, but I'd be in a full upper $500 PLUS the work he has to do.

I plan on buying another AR in the next year a 16" HBAR. I'll have that as my "stock" weapon.

My 20"HBAR bushy has plans though I think.
I want the Mini-y off, and while I'm there I might as well do the following.

Buy FIRSH handguards, buy new gas block with flip down front sight, send it to kurt, have him install handguards, gasblock/front sight, and install A2 or A3 tacbrake to get that silly mini-y off.

And then this is where this thread fits in, the turning and/or fluting of the barrel while kurts there.

And while kurt has is doing the work, buy a tuned RRA NM trigger and install it when it comes back from kurt.

I mean, I'm already there I might as well do it. [rolleyes]

What you guys think?

Edited to say: Total work and parts if ALL of this is done. $600

New Upper plus all this work: $1100

If you are looking for light get a light 16" barrel.  All my AR's have 16" barrels, one of them is a DPMS Panther Bull (big fat sucker) that I have set up for target/varmints. The rest are light barrels and carry real easy!  Got a Cav Arms with M4 barrel coming soon and want to put optics on it.   Trying to decide how I can afford an ACOG......

If you are looking for light get a light 16" barrel.  All my AR's have 16" barrels, one of them is a DPMS Panther Bull (big fat sucker) that I have set up for target/varmints. The rest are light barrels and carry real easy!  Got a Cav Arms with M4 barrel coming soon and want to put optics on it.   Trying to decide how I can afford an ACOG......