Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Posted: 8/28/2001 10:01:38 AM EDT
In my garage I've got a really nice StG-58 kit and an Imbel receiver. It's just been sitting there quietly for about six months, but now I want to actually do something about it. The original receiver was cut, and the barrel is still mounted to the stub. What all will I need as far as parts go that were in the old receiver, but went missing when I only got the stub? I'm thinking of small stuff here like pins and springs that I wouldn't know about until I got a call from the gunsmith.

I figured to buy a new (US made) gas piston, pistol grip, cocking handle, muzzle break, hammer, trigger, and sear. This, I believe, would make me parts law compliant. On the other hand, I'm not crazy about the metal handguards that came with my kit and have been considering others.

Has anyone had good luck building one, or sending a kit and receiver off to a gunsmith like ARS, Azex or any others? Any hints or stories you'd care to share with someone about to break his FAL cherry?

Freedom isn't free
Semper Fidelis
Jarhead out.
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 10:46:29 AM EDT
[#1]
Sounds like you have a good start. I believe what you stated will bring you into compliance. Here's my suggestion, read the FAL Files message boards:
http://www.l1a1.com/cgi-bin/forums/ultimatebb.cgi

A wealth of information and FAQs on the FAL.

Gunplumber is known to be a premier FAL gunsmith.

Have fun!
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 11:49:25 AM EDT
[#2]
btt
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 11:53:34 AM EDT
[#3]
I have built six Stg58s using DSA receivers. One source for compliant parts I use is DSA.
I refinish the metal handguards with black wrinkle finish powdercoat, they look great and my customers love them. I have'nt experienced any problems with heat with the metal guards.
If you do it yourself, some things you will need are an action wrench to remove the stub and install the barrel on the receiver. one source for this is [url]www.americangunsmith.com[/url]. They also have a vey good video on building FAL rifles. You will also need headspace gauges and a headspace rod, these are available from[url]www.brownells.com[/url]. You will need to replace the locking shoulder if it is undersize. You can surface grind it if it is oversize.

The most important thing is to purchase the proper tools for the job, or have someone do the job for you. I can do it for you, or you can have someone like Arizona Response Systems, Gunplumber etc do it.
Whatever you decide, good luck and have fun. Hope this helps.[:D]
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 11:55:58 AM EDT
[#4]
Also check the gunsmithing section of the FAL Files. I got almost everything I needed to know for assembling two kits.

Quick list:

Barrel wrench (modified 1 1/16" box wrench)

Receiver wrench (homemade or purchased)

Pin gauges (for headspacing, determines size of locking shoulder required)

Go and No-go gauges (also for headspacing)

First you've got to get that upper receiver stub off the barrel. If you haven't got a receiver wrench, easiest thing to do is to get a cutting wheel (Dremel) into the cocking handle slot. You don't need to go all the way through. You just want to cut enough of a slot to relieve the steel an allow it to stretch. Then clamp it in a regular vise and turn the barrel off it with your modified 1 1/16" wrench.

All other springs should be contained: within the stock, in the lower receiver, and in the gas tube. You've got the hinge or joint pin somewhere? Other than that, you shouldn't be missing anything unless the components were completely disassembled.

It's not really difficult at all. You can either buy, build, or borrow the necessary tools. Read as much as you can, take it a step at a time, and ask questions if you hit a snag. Don't resort to WECSOG methods (Wile E. Coyote School Of Gunsmithin').

-------------------------------------------------------

Dolomite, search for gary.jeter's thread titled something like Barrelling a Hesse receiver or Crunch, Grind, Swear. WECSOG at its finest.
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 12:02:49 PM EDT
[#5]
Go with Gunplumber at ARS. You won't be sorry!!
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 12:08:03 PM EDT
[#6]
To answer your question Jar, yes, I had a StG-58/DSA rifle built for me.  I had Rich at Century Gun Works slap it all together and repark it for about $165-$175.  He did a great job and bent over backwards to keep me informed on it's progress.  I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend him to anyone.

Your best betat contacting him is on the gunsmithing section over on the FN/FAL board.

PS: Wadman, thanks for finally enlightening me as to exactly what WECSOG meant!
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 1:30:32 PM EDT
[#7]
Thanks for the replies. I've got some work ahead of me.
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 1:45:20 PM EDT
[#8]
$165-$175 is pretty good for a smith to refinish, assemble, time, and headspace. Saves a lot of trouble acquiring tools. This is definitely a good route if you only plan on having one (other FALaholics are snickering in the background).
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 1:50:27 PM EDT
[#9]
If you finish it you can keep the FH
Just don't tell
I went to the local FunShow with a State Trooper,PDO,And Parole guy Sun in Fort Smith
They all thought the CAI Hesse FAL was illegal and I had to preach to them.
By the way,none would have busted him anyway
cpermd
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 2:02:29 PM EDT
[#10]
You don't really need a wrench to take off the stub. Use the dremel trick on the thin section of metal inside of the cocking handle rails until you can almost see the threads. Be careful not to dig into the barrel. Then use a large screw driver and force it into the open slot area, "where you can see through to the other side of the reciever", and tap with a hammer. The stub will pop open like a clam shell.

The only part that you can salvage, besides all the screw on stuff, is the locking shoulder. You can keep the full auto ejection block for sentimental reasons. The locking shoulder comes out by tapping it with a large guage flat punch and a heavy hammer. Hit the smaller "circle" side to remove. It may or may not have the correct headspace width for your new reciever, thats where that headspace measuring tool comes in handy, so you don't have to pound in and pull out random shoulders.
Link Posted: 8/28/2001 2:15:17 PM EDT
[#11]
I bought a FAL kit and Imbel last year.  Prefer to do my own thing and decided to "build it myself".  Found the job VERY easy!  Have helped a dozen friends build theirs.  

Tools:

Reciever wrench from DSA, about  -$65.00
Bad 1 1/16 wrench at flea market - $5.00
(MAC man replaced with new for free!)  {Drives on just right, no mod required.}

6" sanding disk, small file, hammer, punches, 0-1" mic, laser bore sighter and .308 headspace gages were already in my tool box.

These things are damn easy to do!  I have found one bad bolt and one locking shoulder that was too small (re-do of CAI cluster flop for local dealer.)  A few missing pins, springs and the like.  I use stock metric dowel pins from McMaster Carr to replace those not provided.  Assemble it, shoot it and enjoy.  During the winter and bad weather have it refinished to taste.  Result depends on quality of parts kit you buy and how particular you are in assembly.  My dozen have shot VERY well and we are all happy with the result.

Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top