Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Posted: 4/2/2006 12:09:10 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 12:12:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/2/2006 12:12:24 PM EDT by Red-Bucket-98]
Arent they like any other brake rotor?

Remove the wheel, then remove the caliper and pads. The rotor should come right off if it is like most others.

Link Posted: 4/2/2006 12:16:16 PM EDT
If the 2500 is similar to the 1500 Silverado the parking brake is located inside the rotar hub. Remove wheel, brake hardware and make sure that the parking brake is off when you try to remove the rotor.

SBG
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 12:55:52 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 12:58:08 PM EDT
BS.. they're not pressed on they're just stuck a bit on the parking brakes. get the BFH and knock them off.


I work at a GM dealership.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 1:44:53 PM EDT
Go get a BIG ASSED WHEEL PULLER!
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 1:49:05 PM EDT
The Auto Zone guy is full of shit.....

Release parking brake and smack the flat part inbetween the studs with a hammer... remove and resurface..
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 4:08:46 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 4:13:19 PM EDT
150,000+ is insane. My Silverado eats brake pads (especially rears) like no other. I have 148,000 on a 2000 so I assume that we do about the same amount of highway driving.

SBG
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 4:22:07 PM EDT
You can bang all day on those rotors till you're deaf,those rotors are probably the originals,with 150k on them,they're rusted onto the axle,go get a 3 leg wheel puller.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 4:22:13 PM EDT
The dealership wanst the vin because there are 2 different kinds of rear pads for your year truck.. Can be a little hard to tell the differance.


And no.. They are NOT pressed on... I did a set of them on Monday. get a bigger hammer..
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 5:16:54 PM EDT
Document ID# 371377
1999 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Brake Rotor Replacement - Rear

Tools Required


• J 2619-01 Slide Hammer With Adapter

• J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit

• J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit

• J-46277 Rotor Removal Tool

Removal Procedure
You can remove the brake rotor without separating the caliper from the mounting bracket.

Release the parking brake.
Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation
Remove the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly. Refer to Brake Pads Replacement - Rear .
Hang the caliper and mounting bracket assembly from the suspension using mechanics wire.



Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (15 series).



If the brake rotor cannot be removed perform the following:
Assemble J-46277 to J 2619-01 .
Insert J-46277 between the rotor friction surfaces in the vent section of the rotor. DO NOT place the J-46277 on the rotor friction surface.
Using J-46277 and J 2619-01 remove the rotor from the hub assembly.
Inspect the park brake components for the following conditions:
• Bent or broken hold down spring

• Broken, cracked or worn brake shoe lining

• Bent or damaged brake shoe

• Worn, bent or damaged backing plate

If any of these conditions are found replace the affected parts.




Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (25 series).
Installation Procedure
Important: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral runout (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation.


Using the J 42450-A , thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface of the hub/axle flange.
Using the J 41013 , thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface and mounting surface of the brake rotor.
Inspect the mating surfaces of the hub/axle flange and the rotor to ensure that there are no foreign particles or debris remaining.



Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (15 series).



Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (25 series).
Install the caliper and the mounting bracket as an assembly. Refer to Brake Pads Replacement - Rear .
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
Remove the safety stands.
Lower the vehicle.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 371377
1999 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD


This is from GM's SI web site that us GM techs use. Sorry the pictures did not copy. Like others have replied the rotors are rusted on or there is a rust ring built up on the inside on the rotor not letting the rotor slide by the e-brake shoe. They can be a real bear sometimes. Keep working a it, you'll get it.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 6:25:12 PM EDT
Sometimes a little bit of heat will help. Try to knock them off when the rotor is warm/hot.
Link Posted: 4/3/2006 12:57:38 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/3/2006 1:03:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/3/2006 1:03:18 PM EDT by TheKill]
New rotors aren't that expensive, and the factory rotors are made out of recycled Hot Wheels probably anyway. Any factory GM rotor I have handled since 1995 has been thin junk.

Take a shop hammer, beat the frigging things off, and put some good aftermarket rotors on.
Top Top