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Posted: 2/2/2006 6:37:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 6:48:14 AM EDT by Cross_Steel]
I've got a 2000 Ford F-150 with 4.6 V8 , 106K miles and have never had a problem until Tuesday. Drove from work to a resturant to pick up take out for the wife and I. Got back in my vehicle pulling out of the parking lot the truck started shaking(a lot more than normal) whenever I pressed the accelerator. Going home whenever I was coasting it was fine, when I pressed the accelerator the vehicle shook. Got in the carport same thing, it idled fine but shook a lot more than normal when I pressed the accelerator.

I suspected it was something with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation System. I took off the EGR Valve Control Solenoid. I am able to blow air through the solenoid. The Chilton manual says replace it if I'm able to do this.

Are there any other suggestions on what this might be? Like i said it idles fine just when I press the accelator does the vehicle shake way more than normal.

Also my Check Engine light blinked a few times but never stayed on.



Link Posted: 2/2/2006 6:42:46 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Cross_Steel:
I've got a 2000 Ford F-150 with 4.6 V8 , 106K miles and have never had a problem until Tuesday. Drove from work to a resturant to pick up take out for the wife and I. Got back in my vehicle pulling out of the parking lot the truck started shaking(a lot more than normal) whenever I pressed the accelerator. Going home whenever I was coasting it was fine, when I pressed the accelerator the vehicle shook. Got in the carport same thing, it idled fine but shook a lot more than normal when I pressed the accelerator.

I suspected it was something with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation System. I took off the EGR Valve Control Solenoid. I am able to blow air through the solenoid. The Chilton manual says replace it if I'm able to do this.

Are there any other suggestions on what this might be? Like i said it idles fine just when I press the accelator does the vehicle shake way more than normal.






I'd check the plug wires first. Compare the resistance (ohms) from coil to spark plug for each, while looking for one or two that has far more resistance than the others. If it'll skip when it's in park, but giving it gas, you can try to look for arcing at night or in a dark garage. An arcing plugwire will be the one that shows high resistance, 99.99% of the time.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 6:46:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 6:46:43 AM EDT by CbtEngr1]
no mechanic but my suggestion...

sell it
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:16:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By injun-ear:
If it'll skip when it's in park, but giving it gas, you can try to look for arcing at night or in a dark garage. An arcing plugwire will be the one that shows high resistance, 99.99% of the time.



It doesn't skip at all while in park. Only when I press the accelator. But I will check the spark plug wires when I get home though.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:20:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 7:22:10 AM EDT by wkenneth1]
It doesnt have plug wires. Its got a coil on plug ignition.

Have you ever tuned it up? I'd replace the plugs and fuel filter first. Thats starting cheap and its good normal maintenance anyhow. Oh yeah, check for broke boots on the coils when you have 'em off. Make sure you have some time and patience.

YMMV, Worth what you paid for it :)

ETA: Napa sells an 8 pack of coil boots. Its just best to replace 'em when they're off. Its a pain in the ass to change plugs on it.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:25:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 7:26:42 AM EDT by u-baddog]
What make you think EGR valve ?
If the EGR valve is bad and stuck open it should have a rough idle or cut out when slowing down.

The engine light coming on means it store a code. Call around and find a Parts Store that will pull the codes for free and then check Chiltons for the code troublshooting tree. If you cant find a store to pull the code for free buy a checker.


Sounds more like fuel, tune up or clogged exhaust problem.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:27:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 7:29:41 AM EDT by Weiseguy]
I had a similar problem just a couple weeks ago. I poured some gas treatment in the tank whatever they sell at Costco, and the problem vanished and hasn't returned.


As the owner of a late model Expedition, my advice is sell it and buy a Toyota.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:36:53 AM EDT
Sounds like fuel to me as well... clogged filter or bad tank of fuel. At 106k changing the plugs and boots is definately a good idea as well.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:39:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 7:44:16 AM EDT by dalusa]
A COIL WENT BAD. $250.00 at the ford dealer. I've had 2 replaced in my 01 f150 crew cab with the 4.6 litre V-8. One at 35,000 miles and last week at 107,000 miles. You notice it most when accellerating. The first time I got it to the garage for repair as soon as I noticed it. The second time,I had to drive about 100 miles before I got to the shop at about which time the "check engine" light came on
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:40:52 AM EDT
Any trouble codes displayed?

I would think that an engine misfire bad enough to shake the vehicle would set a code.

Possibly something in the drive train / running gear?
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:42:11 AM EDT

Originally Posted By CbtEngr1:
no mechanic but my suggestion...

sell it and buy a Chevy




Fixed it for you
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:45:24 AM EDT

Originally Posted By dalusa:
A COIL WENT BAD. $250.00 at the ford dealer. I've had 2 replaced in my 01 f150 crew cab with the 4.6 litre V-8. One at 35,000 miles and last week at 107,000 miles. You notice it most when accellerating.



It could be. Note however, that the dealer is a lousy place to go for parts. How about a Genuine Ford Parts ignition coil for $66.03, brand new? Dig it.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:48:08 AM EDT
You may want to try this...Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forum
www.ford-trucks.com/
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 7:51:18 AM EDT
Yeah Subnetmask, I quit working on cars when they went to electronic ignitions and a match book became obsolete to set the points.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:01:06 AM EDT

Originally Posted By dalusa:
Yeah Subnetmask, I quit working on cars when they went to electronic ignitions and a match book became obsolete to set the points.



Hey, where's the fun in that?

Anymore, I don't trust anybody but yours truly to work on a vehicle. I rationalized taking new cars to the dealer by saying "I don't have time to deal with it, and my time is valuable" and such. The real reason was I didn't understand modern cars. After getting screwed over TIME AND TIME AGAIN, I decided that enough was enough. So I learned. I HATE saying that I don't know how to do something, so I learned.

Nowdays there are forums for every vehicle imaginable. You have instant access to some really bright mechanics from all over the country, who give advice free of charge. Wow! This wasn't the case 5 or 6 years ago. The internet has really changed things.

BTW, I always used a proper feeler gage and dwell meter, not a matchbook.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:04:43 AM EDT
Cross_Steel: You know, it really could be a coil. After reading around a bit, it seems that alot of folks have the exact same symptoms you describe at a similar mileage, with a new coil resolving the problem.

I'm trying to thing of a way to test the coil. Do you have a digital VOM?
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:05:20 AM EDT
F-150 Online

Good site.

There are no plug wires. You should have coil packs on top of each plug. And plugs are a BITCH to change. It can be done but it's a pain. It is pretty costly to have it done at a shop.

Again, F-150 Online has lots of info. and a good article on changing plugs.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:05:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 8:08:13 AM EDT by Cross_Steel]

Originally Posted By wkenneth1:

Have you ever tuned it up? I'd replace the plugs and fuel filter first. Thats starting cheap and its good normal maintenance anyhow. Oh yeah, check for broke boots on the coils when you have 'em off. Make sure you have some time and patience.



Had the spark plugs replaced at 70K along with the fuel filter, belts, and transmission fluid and filter(also changed at 35K) . Currently there is a little under a half tank of gas. Ran fine the first half of the tank.

What makes me suspect the EGR is, years ago I had an S-10 that did the exact same thing. I replace either the oxygen sensor or the EGR and it went away.


Originally Posted By SubnetMask:

I'm trying to thing of a way to test the coil. Do you have a digital VOM?



I can borrow one.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:06:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 8:06:39 AM EDT by ArmedAggie]

Originally Posted By NonConformist:

Originally Posted By CbtEngr1:
no mechanic but my suggestion...

sell it and buy a Chevy




Fixed it for you



Better get one while they're still makin' 'em.

Don't bother with the extended warranty, GM won't be around that long.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:07:53 AM EDT

Originally Posted By SubnetMask:
Cross_Steel: You know, it really could be a coil. After reading around a bit, it seems that alot of folks have the exact same symptoms you describe at a similar mileage, with a new coil resolving the problem.

I'm trying to thing of a way to test the coil. Do you have a digital VOM?



Testing them is quite difficult. When I was having trouble I found that the best way to test them, unfortunately, was to take it to a dealership and have them run computer diagnostics on it, specifically testing the coils.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:09:07 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Cross_Steel:
I've got a 2000 Ford F-150 with 4.6 V8 , 106K miles and have never had a problem until Tuesday. Drove from work to a resturant to pick up take out for the wife and I. Got back in my vehicle pulling out of the parking lot the truck started shaking(a lot more than normal) whenever I pressed the accelerator. Going home whenever I was coasting it was fine, when I pressed the accelerator the vehicle shook. Got in the carport same thing, it idled fine but shook a lot more than normal when I pressed the accelerator.

I suspected it was something with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation System. I took off the EGR Valve Control Solenoid. I am able to blow air through the solenoid. The Chilton manual says replace it if I'm able to do this.

Are there any other suggestions on what this might be? Like i said it idles fine just when I press the accelator does the vehicle shake way more than normal.

Also my Check Engine light blinked a few times but never stayed on.






I have been in a car that shuddered on acceleration because of loose lugnuts on one wheel, but that shouldn't make the check engine light come on.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:11:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 8:13:04 AM EDT by ArmedAggie]
Changing Plugs

Assuming it is a 5.4L. Not sure if the others are similar. You have to take the coils off to change the plugs. You can try testing them then, the repair manuals available at parts stores have instructions. I found it dificult to tell good from bad except the one that was 100% toast.

Fuel Filter Replacement

Always a good, cheap tune-up item. You will need a tool to get the filter off. They have them at auto parts stores for under $10, usually.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:13:05 AM EDT

Originally Posted By dalusa:
A COIL WENT BAD. $250.00 at the ford dealer. I've had 2 replaced in my 01 f150 crew cab with the 4.6 litre V-8. One at 35,000 miles and last week at 107,000 miles. You notice it most when accellerating. The first time I got it to the garage for repair as soon as I noticed it. The second time,I had to drive about 100 miles before I got to the shop at about which time the "check engine" light came on


Common issue with those engines.

If cmpanies are going to design things with more points of failure, they need to make sure they use that much more quality parts.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:19:10 AM EDT
Mine did something similar a coupla years ago. Same truck, motor and all.

Instead of nickel and diming it out over several days/weeks. I dropped into a shop and handed over a $50. They ran their diagnostics and found the problem.

Turns out the coil pack on the #1 cylinder was goin' out.

Another $50 at the parts store, 2 bolts and I was back in business.

I'm all about doing it yourself, but I'm pretty sure it would have taken way more than 2 hours and a benny to fix it.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:19:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By dalusa:
A COIL WENT BAD. $250.00 at the ford dealer. I've had 2 replaced in my 01 f150 crew cab with the 4.6 litre V-8. One at 35,000 miles and last week at 107,000 miles. You notice it most when accellerating. The first time I got it to the garage for repair as soon as I noticed it. The second time,I had to drive about 100 miles before I got to the shop at about which time the "check engine" light came on



Damn, the coils are actually relatively easy to replace. And at about $50 each I think you should try next time.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:21:47 AM EDT
Broken/loose motor mount is definitely another option to look at. You may be able to tell based on the "feel" of the shake.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:27:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 8:28:12 AM EDT by ArmedAggie]
Demons have possessed your truck. Look at the post number of your first post.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:30:38 AM EDT

Originally Posted By ArmedAggie:
Demons have possessed your truck. Look at the post number of your first post.



LOL. Then I'm out of luck there are no Catholics down my way only Baptist preachers in polyester.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:56:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 8:56:29 AM EDT by ArmedAggie]
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 8:56:40 AM EDT
I had this happen after I had my heater core replaced, or at least somting similar.

In my case one of the heater hoses was leaking coolant into the sparkplug well for cylinder 4.

This shorted out the plug and made it misfire and shake. I am still trying to get it all worked out, but just blowing out the water after I tightened the hose helped a lot.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 9:18:46 AM EDT
I just found out something at lunch. My local Autozone has a computer there there they can hook up and get the "Error Code" since my check engine light came on. And they'll do it for free!
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 9:24:16 AM EDT
Hooray! A starting point!
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 9:48:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 9:50:30 AM EDT by AeroE]
You've got at least one bad ignition coil. The good news is, the price dropped below $100. The (really) bad news will come if you have it replaced by a shop.

Let me guess, you had the plugs changed in the last 10000 miles or so, and recently drove through some heavy rain and/or deep puddles for the first time after the work.

This is a recurring problem on my truck and it is starting to piss me off. Ford doesn't have an answer, just a shrug.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 9:53:16 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Cross_Steel:
I just found out something at lunch. My local Autozone has a computer there there they can hook up and get the "Error Code" since my check engine light came on. And they'll do it for free!



I should have mentioned that, too. They can't always read everything but it's a good (cheap) start.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 1:50:53 PM EDT

Originally Posted By u-baddog:
What make you think EGR valve ?
If the EGR valve is bad and stuck open it should have a rough idle or cut out when slowing down.

The engine light coming on means it store a code. Call around and find a Parts Store that will pull the codes for free and then check Chiltons for the code troublshooting tree. If you cant find a store to pull the code for free buy a checker.


Sounds more like fuel, tune up or clogged exhaust problem.



Did you replace the EGR valve ? If the troubleshooting tree said it was bad , Id replace it. If it is bad your done but its still possible it is not causing your troubles even though its bad.

When is the last time the plugs were pulled ? Have they ever been touched ?
Link Posted: 2/6/2006 5:55:15 AM EDT
The #7 coil was corroded. Replaced it now in runs great again. Thanks everyone for the help.
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