User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 1/23/2006 7:05:35 PM EDT
[#1]
I bet you don't even own that bike. If you do I gurantee it's not used as it was intended to be. I've come to the conclusion your guys bikes are similar to your AR's. They've got way to much shit attached to them, they weight too much, you don't really use them and their just not practical. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2006 7:13:56 PM EDT
[#3]
wow. I really dont have anything to prove to you or anyone else for that matter. I could give a crap about you and your pion elitest lifestyle. Anyways what are you trying to prove about yourself. Do you think you are better than me because you have a super cool bike. You sir are a first class materialist. FOAD. |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2006 7:22:13 PM EDT
[#4]
ETA: See you made your pick.
Have Fun! SG |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2006 7:29:44 PM EDT
[#5]
Easy Answers: NO. Yes. SG |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2006 7:42:30 PM EDT
[#6]
My coworker/friend is a near professional biker, his name is Jon Sharp and writes for www.Gearreview.com as their bike guy.
I am in the same position, I've been shopping for a bike and he's made some very convincing article for full suspension bikes vs hard tails. I'm a pretty large guy so I'm still shopping but have pretty much decided on the cannondale jekyl or the specialized big hit, two relatively tough bikes that'll take a pounding. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2006 7:58:58 PM EDT
[#7]
  |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2006 10:43:37 PM EDT
[#8]
This page (of my own) has some actual partial pics of the bike I own:
www.norcom2000.com/users/dcimper/assorted/inanities/recumbent/speedster/speedster_tube.html ...Mine is a CX so it is red, not silver. I got mine just a couple months after they came out, and the original chain tubes were rather draggy so a few people who had them put up pages with their solutions; this is mine. ------ And I can't get a whole pic right now, it's dark outside. Tomorrow..... I have not been riding a lot lately, it's 25-35F right now--but a typical "casual" ride is ~30 miles, a long casual ride is 50+ miles. ~ |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 12:19:48 AM EDT
[#9]
I bought a mountain bike last year. I researched MTBR.com for about 3 months. I bought a USED Santa Cruz Bullit off one of the mountain bike forums. It got a 4.97 out of 5 on the MTBR.com boards. I picked it up for about $800 and put $200 into it. Retail is just over 3k.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 2:59:28 AM EDT
[#10]
Title :: Member Member Since :: 1/2/2006 Team Member :: No Location :: MN, USA Looks like another troll has surfaced. |
|||||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 3:55:17 AM EDT
[#11]
Last pic when it was still a virgin - Yeti 575 Race Disk with Fox TALAS fork. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 3:59:08 AM EDT
[#12]
 Like I said, when I worked in bicycle shops we didn't make hardly anything on new bike sales. Repairs paid the bills, and there wasn't a ton of money period. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 4:03:30 AM EDT
[#13]
Real pics. These were about $350 a piece. My days of needing the trickest, most expensive stuff are behind me.
I don't know what kinds of shops you guys are hitting that are talking you into $1600 bikes. Hell, a $350 bike is overkill for most riders out there. A Specialised and a Raleigh. Front shocks only. Light trail riding. Decent level components, does the job. niceguymr - I am taller and heavier than you, FWIW  
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 3:12:51 PM EDT
[#14]
Tag with pic
 ..... It's the only way to fly. (-no suspension, don't need it, thanks-) ~~~~~~~~ |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 6:23:37 PM EDT
[#15]
... greener556 Translation: "My opinions are superior to yours. If it's heavy, I can't handle it because I'm a wimp. All I have is a .38 & a .22 because it's all I can afford and I'm jealous of your bikes and ARs" ... |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/24/2006 7:39:35 PM EDT
[#16]
better actors/posers couldn't be found than on AR15.com. Thanks everyone who've showed your bikes and shared your input. I know there are cheaper bikes out there, but I like to buy the company, not just the bike... That way I know I'll get something in return if I'm not happy.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 4:03:05 AM EDT
[#17]
Depends on where you ride. When you're riding stuff like this, a $350 isn't going to cut it.  
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 4:26:20 AM EDT
[#18]
Ignore the 31cc 4-cycle Honda engine nestled in the frame, I was just taking a few measurements....  I got this as a last year's model year before last for $1000 out the door. All the bells and whistles, ride it regularly and beat the hell out of it. Nothing has broken, no funny noises, great bike:  Specialized RockHopper Comp Disc |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 4:59:32 AM EDT
[#19]
Got a ??
How do you know if the bike is sized right to you? I still get this feeling my bikes frame is to big for my size. People tell me its ok but I still dont feel comfy. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 5:23:55 AM EDT
[#20]
damn....I'd like a motor for my Trek....how did you do that?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 5:28:33 AM EDT
[#21]
in summation "grrr, everyone else sucks, I am so HSLD it's not funny, you all suck, everyone is lying, I know everything!" careful there man, that horse gets any higher you'll be seriously injured when you take a tumble! 
|
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 5:47:46 AM EDT
[#22]
Nice bike, I would post a pic of mine actrual bike, but I don't have one with me. Here is what it looked like when new. http://www.epinions.com/bicycles_2001_Jamis_Dakar_Expert/display_~full_specs#.
If you paid a little more than what people got them for on MTBR no big deal, get out and ride it. Also, most frames are a measured in inches, they should fit you, I ride a 17" frame, which I guess would be considered around a medium. Anyways nice ride. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 6:10:32 AM EDT
[#23]
Generally speaking the rule is you should have a couple inchese clearance standing over the top tube of the frame. When sitting on the seat, your legs should be almost, but not quite completely straight for road bikes. For mountain bikes you want a smaller frame, but not by a huge amount. Seems to me most people are used to and prefer bikes that are actually too small for them. Smaller bikes may have a more upright seating position and be easier to get onto, but they don't allow you to get full extension of your legs, even at the highest seat positions. Not being able to use your whole leg motion means you have to work alot harder to the same speed. Which is fine if you are just cruising around, but not for any serious riding. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 6:18:39 AM EDT
[#24]
Tag
2003 Kona Cinder Cone, light mods. You want "actual" pics, you're gonna have to wait until I get home. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 6:53:38 AM EDT
[#25]
....the way you "size" a bike is both what degree of leg extensions you get, as well as what angle your back is at when you are riding. It's pretty difficult to know this until you have ridden a lot--usually you get a good leg extension, but you feel hunched over too much when you are in a normal riding position. You really need someone else who knows what looks right to see you on the bike. But it's not comfortable, like I said--upright bikes make you lean forward and carry your upper body weight on your hands, and your hands go numb with riding--if they don't, the bike isn't set up "right". ------ The leg extension business I don't know. One would suspect that longer cranks would always be better--and they are for technical riding over short distances, where you need maximum torque--but for longer riding, shorter cranks seem to be better overall. It's common for people having knee problems to switch to shorter cranks to cure the pain--and after they have switched, usually they don't find their riding speeds to have suffered. Most cranks (on adult bikes) are around 170mm, and 140-150mm seems to be the ideal. It is not strictly a recumbent-bike thing either; the legendary Lance Armstrong runs shorter-than-typical cranks and spins in a gear or two higher than most riders. I mainly visit recumbent forums but of all the people who try shorter cranks, very few seem to switch back to 170-mm's. Most recumbents still don't come with them but it is a very common modification. Mine has the stock 170's right now; short cranks cost roughly $125, or $85 for add-on adaptors. What a lot of people say is that at first, the short cranks "seem like they're too short to work well", but it rarely turns out to be true. After a few weeks of riding, average speeds generally increase and knee problems generally decrease. The evidence seems to prevail in that there are a number of places selling or modifying regular 170-mm cranks to shorter lengths, but there doesn't seem to be anyplace selling significantly longer cranks. ~~~~~~~ |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 7:09:41 AM EDT
[#26]
This is true. Avoid the big box stores like the plague if you are buying a quality bike. The reason is that assembly is VITAL in getting a quality bike. Bikes don't come from the factory pre-assembled, folks. Even a $2,000 Iron Horse will perform like total garbage if the person assembling it did not do a good job. I had a roommate from Utah who worked at a high end bike store and she said they spent (on average) 3 hours carefully assembling each bike for their customers. You think Walmart is gonna spend 3 hours assembling that Mongoose for ya? Or even employ someone who's remotely skilled at bike assembly? Bottom line is that if you're gonna spend the money on a good bike, you want a competent person to assemble it. If you want a $99 beater, then go ahead and get one from Walmart -- no amount of assembly skill is gonna help those bikes. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 7:22:41 AM EDT
[#27]
I have a '91 Rockhopper Comp. It's gone through a couple sets of components, but the damn thing just keeps soaking up abuse without hiccuping. I doubt I'll need another bike in my lifetime.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 8:38:12 AM EDT
[#28]
Recently I switched from no suspension to full suspension.
What a HUGE difference. The tires don't wash-out on the loose stuff now. Things are definately better when the tires are in contact with the ground. Hard-tail just makes no sense. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 8:40:00 AM EDT
[#29]
 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 11:06:44 AM EDT
[#30]
 oh man that looks like it could be really bad ass! Did you get it working? Im REALLY curious 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 1:33:52 PM EDT
[#31]
FS bikes climb better on rocky, uneven terrain. Certainly a skilled rider on a HT will do better than a less skilled rider on an FS bike, but you're less likely to spin and stall if the rear wheel is staying on the ground. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 8:07:15 PM EDT
[#32]
Thanks everyone for all your replies. I've been out of town the last couple of days but am looking forward to getting home and picking up my new bike. After all has been said (along with my continuous research), I'm still set on the Specialized Stumpjumper FSR. I haven't seen any convincing reason why I shouldn't get one, plus the fact that everyone that owns a Specialized bike seems to swear by the brand. They offer a lifetime warranty on the frame, so I can't see any reason why I would regret my purchase. Hopefully, I'll have the bike by 1st or 2nd week of February. I promised the GF I would get rid of my other 2 bikes before I brought home a new one.
BTW... I'm in Baltimore now and it's FREAKIN' COLD!!!! How anyone deals with this weather on a regular basis is beyond me. I can't wait to get back to sunny Florida! ETA: Kali's Court was great for dinner though. The live Nova Scotian Lobster was delish! |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/25/2006 8:52:08 PM EDT
[#33]
 My 1996 Cannondale M500. She has been ridden hard and put up wet, but held up really well. I had hope to replace it a year or so ago but it never panned out. Plus, I'm mostly road biking anymore so I decided to upgrade that first. When I was researching a replacement, I was hell bent on a full suspension bike. I'm sure all the advantages are listed in this thread. I ended liking the single pivot bikes such as the Cannondale Prophet and Santa Cruz Superlite. With the new generation of shocks the single pivots work really well. However, there are a lot of good designs out there and from what I remember the Specialized is one of them. I now think if I were to upgrade I would go with another hardtail though. Mainly because I do not do much technical riding anymore. I still love single track but I have learned to hate the super rough stuff that is around my house. So, for my riding style of gas well roads, smoother single track, and rail trails a hardtail is a no brainer. They are cheaper, shift better, lighter, and require less maintenance. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 4:28:11 AM EDT
[#34]
No, not yet.  I have all these great ideas, two fully equipped machine shops at my disposal, and NO free time.  The farthest I got was fitting the engine and figuring out the final gear ratios. The intent is to turn it into a motorcycle as there isn't a practical way to uncouple the pedals if I want to shift gears. If not shifting gears isn't a problem for you, then you can buy a friction drive setup from www.staton-inc.com. A bicycle will do a little over 30mph with the Honda GX31 in a friction drive arrangement. I want to at least be able to use the rear deraillure so I can have a low enough 1st gear to hop over logs without the centrifugal clutch slipping. The motor will sit 4 or 5 inches higher in the frame than that, as the number of stages in the reduction drive will be substantial. Dave |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 4:28:32 AM EDT
[#35]
 2003 Kona Cinder Cone, optimized for street use (most of my use is riding to the gym, trails are only for weekend use) Dirt Head aluminum flat bar Profile Design aluminum bar ends WTB All-Terrainasaurus tires (not shown) Planet Bike front/rear LED blinkers |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 5:29:34 AM EDT
[#36]
Toe clips?
Man up and go clipless. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 6:02:34 AM EDT
[#37]
I'd love to ... but it's not practical. I ride my bike to the gym 3-5x per week. This is on the streets in Center City Philadelphia. As it is, I already have all my gym stuff on my back. Going clipless would mean that I would have to stuff my running shoes into my (already full) backpack. Realistically, I can't do it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 7:45:23 AM EDT
[#38]
Fair enough. Toe clips are okay on the streets but bad news on rough trails. If you get kicked out of them on a rocky or rooty section, they can catch on something and take you down. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 9:57:50 AM EDT
[#39]
+100 bicycle shop.
I actually found the bikes online were just as or MORE expensive than the local shop. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 10:19:43 AM EDT
[#40]
If you want a great bike you cant go wrong with a specialized, trek, turner, etc. If you want a lightweight full suspension I would go with trek fuel, or trek top fuel. Things have come a long way in the past few years, I have a trek top fuel 98, full carbon fiber frame, and lockouts for the suspension this thing climbs like a goat on any type of terrain and eats up rock gardens like they are nothing, but it is a really expensive bike 3000k +, with the lockouts engaged it is stiffer than any full rigid I have ever ridden, and equal in weight to some road bikes. Now do you need full suspension NO but man it really smoothes out the ride when you have been on the trail all day it does a lot of good for your back. You can get cheaper bikes to that are just as good but heavier like a specialized I think some of them have lockouts. but if do not plan on any hard core riding you do not need anything like a top fuel 98, anything from an alpha aluminum 4300 on up will do great for you that is what I started with not a serious off road bike but it is a good trustworthy bike.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/26/2006 10:36:07 AM EDT
[#41]
That's where I think Trek's a bit behind the times. If the suspension is designed right, you shouldn't have to lock it out, especially with modern stable platform shocks like a Fox RP3. I think Specialized, Turner, Titus, Yeti, etc. have suspension geometry, that when paired with a properly set up SPV shock, will climb as good as a locked out RS yet retain some compliance for rough trails. Of course, if you're racing or riding relatively smooth trails, that's not as much of an issue. Bikes for technical riding has never been a focus of Trek's product line though. You really have to pick the bike for what you ride because of the design specilization these days on high end bikes which is why it's better for a newbie to pick a bike that's more generic and less expensive until they learn what types of trails are available to them and what they like to ride. In arfcom terms, don't by a 24" bull barrel AR for CCB or a 16" M4 for ground hogs at 400 yds. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/27/2006 9:32:08 PM EDT
[#42]
Actually, no so. From the looks of it today, there was a 45% markup on the bike that I purchased. I had the pleasure of purchasing that bike today at cost, which was well below the MSRP. I ended up purchasing a Stumpjumper FSR 100 Comp Disc (MSRP $2000) for $1200... That's $800 on a single bike. I know I got it at cost b/c the guy showed me the dealer catalog with his cost of $1040 to which I upgraded a few components and brought the price up to $1200. In actuality, considering the retail value of the components I upgraded, I made out very well. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 4:39:43 AM EDT
[#43]
sounds like you got a deal, good for you.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 4:52:20 AM EDT
[#44]
Man, we sure didn't get that kind of markup back in my day. 
|
||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 5:00:32 AM EDT
[#45]
Were your mid-higher end bikes made in Taiwan? |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 12:03:49 PM EDT
[#46]
Further wierdness: I am pondering getting one of these--
www.cyclegenius.com/ltx.htm ...the bicycle I have now I think may be a bit short for a 6'2" rider but since I can't make it longer or me shorter, I have to get something else. ------ And anyway--this model is known for its highly adjustable seat, and long-wheel-base recumbents are generally agreed to be the most comfortable bicycles of all. ~ |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/28/2006 12:37:02 PM EDT
[#47]
I just went through the same thign last fall. Coming from a motocross backround, I really needed some good suspension. I love the geometry and the sigle fork on the Canondale. I went with the Cannondale Prophet 800. It was like $1800 and feels a million times better than my buddies GF Cake 2.0.
The Cannondale also won the Bike Of The Year award.  Some customer reviews from MTBReview.com Bike of the Year |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
