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Posted: 12/17/2005 3:28:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/18/2005 4:47:45 PM EDT by prebans]
Hello!

Well, my most recent outing with my Uzi went great until I stuck in the vector f/a .22lr kit. The kit started good but went downhill.

The outing with the 22 kit ended when two shells ejected out utterly blown up. I unloaded the gun and checked the barrel. Sure 'nuff; no daylight seen when I looked skyward. As best I can figure there are probably 3 bullets lodged in my .22 barrel.

Any advice on removing them?

...at least the 9mm worked great.

Thanks,

Mike
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 3:30:02 PM EDT
one piece cleaning rod, tap them out
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 3:30:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/17/2005 3:31:08 PM EDT by SteyrAUG]

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
one piece cleaning rod, tap them out



+1 Brass rod being preferrable.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 3:31:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/17/2005 3:36:01 PM EDT by MoparMike]

Originally Posted By prebans:
Hello!

Well, my most recent outing with my Uzi went great until I stuck in the vector f/a .22lr kit. The kit started good but went downhill.

The outing with the 22 kit ended when two shells ejected out utterly blown up. I unloaded the gun and checked the barrel. Sure 'nuff; no daylight seen when I looked skyward. As best I can figure there are probably 3 bullets lodged in my .22 barrel.

Any advice on removing them?

...at least the 9mm worked great.

Thanks,

Mike



REmove the bullet from a 9mm +P+ and plug with wax. Place in chamber, pull trigger!

[whisper no - SHOUTING DO NOT DO THIS HE'S TRYING TO BE FUNNY - Paul] [-Mike]

*hears whispering*

What do you mean it doesn't work like that with a .22lr kit?

Ok, get something very solid and a hammer and pound them out. Or get a new kit...
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 3:33:12 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 5:32:48 PM EDT
Thanks much, guys. I found a 3/16" brass rod at Home Depot and filled the chamber-to-plugged area with Kroil. I'll let that soak until tomorrow morning and then start from the muzzle end to the plug.

Incidentally, the block is about 1/4 the distance from the chamber and 3/4 the distance from the crown. Should I try to tap it out from the crown toward the chamber or go from the chamber and tap it out toward the crown?

Thanks,

Mike
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 5:36:55 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 5:38:09 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Paul:
Crown to chamber.



Shortest distance. Good luck.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 5:44:30 PM EDT
You need a drill bit, slightly larger then the ID of the barrel...........
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 5:50:41 PM EDT
new barrel


Lebrew
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 5:52:21 PM EDT
Underwater range adventure?
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 6:00:38 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Paul:
Crown to chamber.




I disagree. The bullet started ar the chamber, it rifled that way. Exit the bullet at the muzzle like it was origionally planned.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 6:04:37 PM EDT
How bout getting a torch and heating the barrel up in the proximity of the lodged bullet until the lead melts...

<­BR>



Kidding.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 6:11:33 PM EDT
I had a bullet lodged in the barrel due to a cartridge not containing any powder but the primer had enough blast to push the bullet into the barrel. The range officer tapped it out by putting a rod into the open end of the barrel so the bullet fell into the breech.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 7:26:50 PM EDT
Um, replace the barrel? I learned that one the hard way.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 7:39:38 PM EDT
Mil-surplus steel cleaning rod. Tap gently with a hammer, should come out no problem.

I used to shoot a lot of Federal "Lightning" .22 ammo until it left a lot of squibs in the barrel. I've tapped out probably a half a dozen this way.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 7:54:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/17/2005 7:59:52 PM EDT by astrafire]

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
How bout getting a torch and heating the barrel up in the proximity of the lodged bullet until the lead melts...


Kidding.



I had two bullets stuck in vector .22 barrel. A squib round followed by a blown round that held the action open. I heated up the barrel on an electric stove (coil type) at the highest setting. The bullets melted slightly and I could then push them out pretty easy with a cleaning rod. A torch will discolor the parkerizing. Spent awhile cleaning lead out of the barrel. There were no marks or dark spots in the rifling after I was done. The parkerizing was not blemished either. I still have and use the barrel. If the rifling had been marred or if there had been a dark spot, I would have pitched it.

ETA: Knocking out one bullet is not a big deal. When they pile up on each other in there, it is a problem.

ETAA: If this ever happens on a 9mm barrel, you have to get another barrel.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 7:59:05 PM EDT
I have plenty of extra cleaning rods...And a hammer!
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 8:03:44 PM EDT
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE BULLET

The complete upper has been compromised, send it to me immediately for disposal.....
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 8:05:04 PM EDT
Just use a bore cleaning solvent to soften the lead bullets. Saturate from both ends and let stand for a couple days, then punch them out.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 10:09:19 PM EDT
Keep shooting more through, one will eventually puush all the others out...Actually surviving the first two makes the third or more a minor miracle.

I think the dissolving method with bore cleaner makes the most sense. If you really have three in there punching one into another is going to really smoosh them out (that's fancy talk for obdurate).

Inquiring minds want to know how you missed several squibs lodging when firing?
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 10:14:39 PM EDT
Your best bet to keep from screwing it up is take it to a gunsmith. Let a professional take care of it..
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 10:21:58 PM EDT
Do not use a steel or aluminum rod. Brass, or wooden dowel.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 12:40:20 AM EDT
From experience: Use a BRASS ROD with a straight 90 degree end....a wooden dowel of .22 caliber size WILL NOT be strong enough to dislodge a single bullet let alone two.

Do not make the rod too long, keep it short(1-1 1/2 inches) sticking out of the barrel and use another longer one as the bullets move towards the breech. Hit it squarely so it doesn't bend.

Bang them out from CROWN TO BREECH......the shortest distance.

Piccolo, The rifling and initial direction of the bullet doesn't matter. I don't know where this mythical bullshit ever started

Do not use any type of steel cleaning rod or drill rod......the damge it will do is obvious.

Do NOT use an aluminum cleaning rod, they are not strong enough.....any of them.

Do NOT use a torch, its not necessary. The bullets will bang out.

And MoparMike.....you should be ashamed of yourself for suggesting the use of a charged cartridge.....Joking or not......Wake UP!!!

Link Posted: 12/18/2005 5:49:32 AM EDT
You might also try this a few times to loosen things up a bit...



Lead Removal

For really stubborn lead removal try a 50/50 mix of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (the common drug store variety) and white vinegar. Plug the bore, fill it up using a dropper or syringe and let it stand for 5-10 minutes. (Do not let it stand for too long.) You may get some foaming so protect the barrel's external finish as this solution is not kind to bluing--so take appropriate precautions. Drain and wipe out the black muck that used to be lead and then immediately clean well with bore cleaner.






Link Posted: 12/18/2005 6:07:56 AM EDT

Originally Posted By SteyrAUG:

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
one piece cleaning rod, tap them out



+1 Brass rod being preferrable.



I FULLY agree!
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 6:34:12 AM EDT

Originally Posted By TUMOR:

Originally Posted By SteyrAUG:

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
one piece cleaning rod, tap them out



+1 Brass rod being preferrable.



I FULLY agree!



If all else fails man up and use your tongue.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 3:23:18 PM EDT


Originally Posted By TUMOR:

Originally Posted By SteyrAUG:

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
one piece cleaning rod, tap them out



+1 Brass rod being preferrable.



I FULLY agree!


Brass is not only stronger than a wooden dowel, but also it won't splay out or split the way wood would.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 3:30:59 PM EDT
It used to be a common practice to drive a lead slug down a bore to determine the exact bore size. It is not really difficult to drive a bullet down a bore. You shouldn't have any problem with a brass rod.

Lubricate the bore with some oil and it will drive right out, no problem.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 3:48:38 PM EDT
Doing stuck rounds is part of my job, Rule of thumb the bullet got stuck going one direction so don't make it go that way any more, out saturate it with lub get a brass as close to the bore diameter as possible concave it the tip with a drill bit and begin smacking. if it does come out clean the bore then then have a good gunsmith inspect it before you try to fire it again. Unless you have and EOD tool kit that is about your only viable option.

BTW I have never worked on any thing that small though usualy 25mm and above.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 4:47:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/18/2005 4:48:12 PM EDT by prebans]
THEY'RE OUT!

I filled the barrel with Kroil (from both ends of the obstruction) and let each side soak for 12 hours. Kroil did eventually "creep" through the obstruction and drained out the other end. From there, I cut a 3/16" brass rod to 13" in length and used a dremel to buff down any sharp edges. Five gentle whacks with a hammer and the obstruction - a pair of .22lr projectiles - popped lose. I finally passed a .22 bore snake with Hoppes through the barrel three times.

Unfortunately, while no bulge is apparent externally, there are problems on the inside. A "ring" exists inside the barrel where the obstruction occurred. One side also has a good indentation.

Hopefully this won't affect shooting, but something tells me a new barrel may be on order for me soon.

BTW, ammo used was CCI Mini-Mag.

Thank you for all of your suggestions and help!

Sincerely,

Mike
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 4:52:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/18/2005 4:52:37 PM EDT by none]
Please tell me you are NOT going to shoot that without getting it inspected by a gunsmith.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 5:03:43 PM EDT
Pre Bans, don't worry too much about the ring. I had my .22 conversion in my Uzi for about a year, when I noticed a bulge on the inside of the barrel. It did not show on the outside. Called Vector and they replaced it for free. I would just check every now and then to see if it starts to get lead buildup there.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 5:07:25 PM EDT
Have it checked out by a competent smith before you shoot it.

My target rifle(Anschutz 1813) had a bulge about 6 inches from the end of the barrel, which was not visible from the outside. I won 2 national championships with it that way. So it won't necessarily affect your accuracy
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 5:28:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/18/2005 5:29:28 PM EDT by prebans]

Originally Posted By P08:
Pre Bans, don't worry too much about the ring. I had my .22 conversion in my Uzi for about a year, when I noticed a bulge on the inside of the barrel. It did not show on the outside. Called Vector and they replaced it for free. I would just check every now and then to see if it starts to get lead buildup there.



They replaced the barrel but you still have to watch it..?

Confused,

Mike

P­S. Koter and None: No shooting until I hear from Vector and (if they say not to worry) having a 'smith look it over.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 5:50:57 PM EDT
Sorry for the confusion. They replaced my barrel, apparently they felt it was a manufacturing defect. I was telling you to keep an eye on the ring in the bore. If it is rough, it may build a ring of lead that eventually constricts the bore below .22 cal. This would obviously cause you problems.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 5:52:21 PM EDT

Originally Posted By P08:
Sorry for the confusion. They replaced my barrel, apparently they felt it was a manufacturing defect. I was telling you to keep an eye on the ring in the bore. If it is rough, it may build a ring of lead that eventually constricts the bore below .22 cal. This would obviously cause you problems.



Thanks.

I think the best course of action is to call them tomorrow. Hopefully they can give some guidance on where to go from here.

Mike
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 6:01:48 PM EDT
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