I am working on the floor plan for a new house.  A couple of things that I plan to include:
combination storm shelter, gun room, pantry (include space to work on guns and plenty of storage)
washer & dryer on first floor
specify floor finishes that are durable and easy to clean (wood floors, tile, etc.) - expensive up front cost, but you won't replace them every 5-10 years like carpet.
design the first floor so that you could only live on first floor (I hope to retire in this house and climbing stairs may not be my favorite thing in my golden years.)

A couple of these were mentioned but deserve restating.

Insulate the garage & go with infloor radiant for the basement.  Radiant heat in the garage is a wise idea too especially if you decide to add any plumbing out there.

Buy a double insulated garage door & do not compremise on quality.  REPEAT Buy a double insulated garage door & do not compremise on quality.

Even here in Michigan if you orient your home to maximize the southern exposure you will take advantage of passive solar heating even in the winter.  Enhancing that with slightly larger windows on the south side helps.

I cannot recommend this one enough!  Install an automatic backup generator that runs on natural gas or propane.  The additional cost will be about $3500 and worth every penny.  That part of the state is prone to weather related power outages.

When setting up your HVAC make sure you have a thermostat control that lets you can turn on the furnace blower only (assuming forced air heat/cooling) anytime of the year.  I use mine to draw cool air from the basement upstairs thereby reducing the need for AC.  Conversely, in the winter when the southern exposed windows make a net gain in heat upstairs the blower moves warm air to the basement.

Exterior construction tip.  I believe code requires drainage tiles.  Use ABS plastic tile inside the sock to filter out sediments.

It has been my personal and professional experience that electricians aren't the best at running telco wiring in new costruction.  It's worth the couple extra bucks to have a telco guy do the inside wiring.


Most of all, GOOD LUCK with your permits....Lapeer County is a snake pit when it comes to county government

This house is roughly the same as mine except I don't have an upper level.  

Here's some sage, been there, done that advice:

- Compare the length of your extended cab, full size pick-up--or the one you might buy some day--with the length of the garage.  The garage is way too small.    At least be sure the garage is built so that it won't have a support pole smack in the middle of it, like mine.  

- The kitchen is too small too.  

- The master bath shower is too small for you and the wife to share simultaneously.  If y'all're like us, y'all'd rather have a full size tube with shower than have that garden tub and small shower.  Neither my wife nor I have ever used the garden tub.  It's a PITA because, although it's plenty wide, it ain't even as long as a regular tub.  

- Make sure the basement is deep enough that you can install a drop ceiling and still have at least eight-foot ceilings.  Remember, all that plumbing and ducting will need to be hidden by the ceiling.  Our house was built so that it's just 8-1/2 feet from concrete floor to the bottom of the floor joists above.  

I am building my own 3700 sq ft house here in Miami.

Let me give you some tips. If you are going to do it yourself, shop around. Hire only insured and licensed people. Do not pay anyone until it pasees inspection on their work.

My house. Just me my, my dad, and my brother are building.

Quoted: I am building my own 3700 sq ft house here in Miami. Let me give you some tips. If you are going to do it yourself, shop around. Hire only insured and licensed people. Do not pay anyone until it pasees inspection on their work. My house. Just me my, my dad, and my brother are building.

Mmmm... Concrete, I like.


Rat, I would check the insulation for the washer/dry or its location.  You don't want to listen to those things while eating/watching TV.

That's great! Mrs. R and I are digging for our new house as I write this. I spent months trying to line up all the sub-contrators who appear to not to want to work very hard or can't write a quote on paper. It appears to be an industry joke.

If you want, let's compare notes on the construction.  

Below is a picture of my subs.
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Don't see anything above?

That's common, I barely see them until they need money.

After awhile of pushing this request for site spec and quotes uphill, I gave up on the foundation and earth moving guys and I'm digging with my backhoe and Bobcat. It's a bit slow but I'll save about $11K in the process and really enjoy it. Even the Health department commented on the fine job I did with the septic system.

Not to steal your thread, but this is what we're building. I will be poor till I'm in my 70's.



Good luck on your project.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Already planning to do most of that. As for the safe, I plan to build a sement vault in the basement. So that's what Peter North is doing now days. Yep, I'm retarded. The sad part is, I know how to spell cement.

I've done worse.  Sometimes all you can do is laugh.

I've noticed most homes have two living room/family rooms, and quite a few have two dining areas, informal and formal.  The more formal areas are used infrequently.  Does it really make sense to dedicate space to these rooms?  How about a Music room or a Media room or just a craft room for one of these?

The furniture in many a living room has gone out of style before anyone made a dent in a cushion.

Quoted: I've noticed most homes have two living room/family rooms, and quite a few have two dining areas, informal and formal.  The more formal areas are used infrequently.  Does it really make sense to dedicate space to these rooms?  How about a Music room or a Media room or just a craft room for one of these? The furniture in many a living room has gone out of style before anyone made a dent in a cushion.

I agree with many of your statements.  I had an aunt whose LvgRm was never used, and was a complete waste of space.  That's why I was pushing for a Great Room which combines the kitchen, dining room and living room into one.  It makes for an informal use of the space, and allows the dining room to be part of the other rooms without being stuffy.

My LvgRm is my TV room with the HD.  It won't end up being my main TV room when I get the big screen HD, but it's the main gathering point for friends and relatives.

You're going to live in a Thomas Kincaid painting?

Quoted: Kris, Does the builder own the land? Chris

No, I bought the land from an agent who happened to own it. It was part of another lot, but it was split. 5.25 acers of good land in Lapeer for $49k ain't too bad.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Already planning to do most of that. As for the safe, I plan to build a sement vault in the basement. So that's what Peter North is doing now days. Yep, I'm retarded. The sad part is, I know how to spell cement. I've done worse.  Sometimes all you can do is laugh.

It's actually spelled concrete. Flour is to bread as cement is to concrete.

Look into ICF's for the basment. I used Reward Wall System forms in my basment and garage foundation. www.rewardwalls.com

At the minimum, insulate under the slabs, 2" Owens Corning 250. As some have stated, go with Wirsbo infloor heat in the basement and garage slabs. I'm dual fuel with LP furnace/forced air/central air for upstairs and electric boiler for the infloor. Argo boiler and Wirsbo controls. Look into any programs your utilities provide such as duel fuel or off peak. I also have off peak water heating with a 105 gallon Marathon/Rheem water heater.

Look at Wirsbo aquapex for your potable plumbing. I used type L copper with Watts new fittings with the solder in the fitting (Home Depot). If I were to do it again I would probably go Wirsbo.

Use quality windows. I used Marvin aluminm clad.

Watch what your subs are doing. Check their work. I was busy with other parts fo the project and when I went to put my kitchen cabinets in found that the walls were out of square and plumb. That's going to happen but if you catch it soon enough, make them fix it.

I acted as my own general and saved 18K, I also did my own concrete, plumbing, tile, wood floor, paint, trim, T&G ceiling and cabinet installation. I purchased my HVAC equiipment from a wholesaler through connections at work. Subbed out the Frame/side/roof/window install, electrical, ductwork, insulation, sheetrock and carpet.

Cost with out the property was in your ball park. The house is 34x56 and the attached garage is 30x46.

Oh, make sure you like the floorplan. We spent a lot of time on ours.

Couple of pics:
Back

Front

Greatroom:

Back up close

Quoted: Quoted: Yo Kris, where are you building her at? Lapeer. It's going to be on M-24 just north of the city and about 5 miles from the pit.

Can I come to the house warming party?

Quoted: Looks nice.  If you are building your own house how about a subterrarean pistol range?  Dont skimp on the environmental stuff like ventilation and lead-catchers though.

I have actually been getting ready to sub my own house and have hopes of putting a aubterranean pistol range in . I havent worked out the vent system but there is a product that they use to soundproof bars that if applied thicker i think would make a good secondary bullet catch

Kris,
Is the basement finished or unfinished? If it is the latter, I saw a commercial for Owens Corning basement systems.  www.1800basement.com
They put up the basement in 2 weeks and give you "easy access" to the plumbing, electrical. etc.

Have a transferswitch/ genset prewired.

Loose the 2 story open entry and put a door at the top of the stairs. Openness will ruin your ability to efficiently heat and cool your house. In the summer, all the cool air will go downstairs and the 2nd story will boil. In the winter, all the heat will go upstairs and downstairs will freeze.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yo Kris, where are you building her at? Lapeer. It's going to be on M-24 just north of the city and about 5 miles from the pit. Can I come to the house warming party?

You can even come to the firearm range shooting party You live in the area?

A Moat!  Moats are nice and so often overlooked in new construction!

Quoted: Quoted: Less gadgets, more square footage.  The plan shows 1666 sq. ft.  I recommend bigger. You guys forget that it is only the two of us. We don't have kids nor do we plan on them (we take measures to make sure there are no "accidents" either) We don't plan to sell the house. At least not in the next 10 years or so. The basement will be finished also, so that will add more square footage.

I used to have 1200 sq ft.  WAY too small for the 2 of us.  2200 sq ft is just right, although it did seem small at the last turkey day party.  There were so many people in the house, I had to shut off the heater and open windows due to all the body heat.  

Quoted: With all the roof lines, I'd recommend the sticky rubber instead of tar paper under the  shingles.

What is the advantage to the sticky rubber over tar paper?


(lots of great ideas).  

Quoted: Quoted: With all the roof lines, I'd recommend the sticky rubber instead of tar paper under the  shingles. What is the advantage to the sticky rubber over tar paper? (lots of great ideas).

+1

Add a urinal/toilet  and a shower in the garage. When you are done with yardwork or other masculine pursuits you won't track grime into the house.



96Ag

GREAT thread, and best of luck to you shop_rat.

I might be building a house myself soon enough. Don't know for sure yet. I'm going to use this thread for some inspiration.

Quoted: Add a urinal/toilet  and a shower in the garage. When you are done with yardwork or other masculine pursuits you won't track grime into the house. 96Ag

Ehh, that's what trees are for.   It's secluded enough that I won't have to worry about it.

Kris

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: With all the roof lines, I'd recommend the sticky rubber instead of tar paper under the  shingles. What is the advantage to the sticky rubber over tar paper? (lots of great ideas).   +1

Ice and water barrier, it sticks to the roof sheeting preventing ice and water from backing up between it and the sheeting.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: With all the roof lines, I'd recommend the sticky rubber instead of tar paper under the  shingles. What is the advantage to the sticky rubber over tar paper? (lots of great ideas).   +1 Ice and water barrier, it sticks to the roof sheeting preventing ice and water from backing up between it and the sheeting.

Ohh. OK. Thanks.

Kris

after my home addition

1. high ceilings up and down staris
2. instant hot water heater if faucet is far away from heater
3. sticky rubber for roof edges and valleys
4. build a bigger kitchen are that you think you will ever use- ours is now 500 sq ft (incl dining area aand fireplace area) and of coure EVERYBODY stays in that area
5. get the best windows you can FIND not afford.
6. have someone do all the stuff you cant- even if you think you can.  
7. Min floor laundry is a must- and insulate those walls for sound.
8. prewire for sound/alarm/networ/cable/phone  You will use thousands of feet so have someone do it or get 1000' rolls
9. you cant have enough outlets
10. take your plan and double the price- that shouls just about cover how much it is going to cost.  at a minimum- plan 10-20k extra.

just one thing...B A S E M E N T ! ! ! ! !...that is all.

artar

With all of those valleys I would definately go with the ice and water shield as an underlayment but I would pass on the shingle roof.  A standing seam roof is the only way to go, especially with that roof design.  Snow slides off them a lot better than shingles I can tell you that!!  They are tough as hell, watertight, and maintanence free.  I wish I hadn't been such a cheap a$$ and gotten one when I replaced my roof.  You'll be replacing/repairing those shingles sooner than you'd expect.  The roof is one of the most important parts of your house, I wouldn't skimp on it if I didn't have to.  Other than that just enjoy your new home, just don't let it own you!!