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Link Posted: 1/24/2021 11:20:39 PM EDT
[#1]
Hell no.
Link Posted: 1/24/2021 11:25:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Tell them to pound sand, no one does a PPI on a 7k Toyota.
Link Posted: 1/24/2021 11:27:27 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:


I understate the condition. I've had exactly one person see it, and exactly one person agree to the price... And then pull the "I need to have it inspected" stuff. Part of the problem is, Scion is not known as mainstream Toyota. Also, there market here sucks for selling them. I had my 09 Tundra 4x4 crewmax listed for a good while and for well under kbb before the first person came and saw it. He also bought it. I think if anything that I'm underselling since I'm batting 1000 on first buyer sales... Maybe I should go exaggerate some...
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Try the KBB buy it now. I've gotten considerably more for a car compared to Carmax one time. The used car market has been in insane demand for almost a year now. I sold my '16 Audi A6 Prestige back to Carmax after 9 months for almost what I bought it for last January.

Unless you're not being honest with the condition/history and are not even remotely accurately listing the value I'm having a really tough time believing a Toyota hasn't sold within 1-2 weeks in this market.


I understate the condition. I've had exactly one person see it, and exactly one person agree to the price... And then pull the "I need to have it inspected" stuff. Part of the problem is, Scion is not known as mainstream Toyota. Also, there market here sucks for selling them. I had my 09 Tundra 4x4 crewmax listed for a good while and for well under kbb before the first person came and saw it. He also bought it. I think if anything that I'm underselling since I'm batting 1000 on first buyer sales... Maybe I should go exaggerate some...
Almost 4 pages to finally explain that your Toyota is really a Scion? Come on dude.

Are you advertising it as a Toyota in real life too?
Link Posted: 1/24/2021 11:35:21 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:


This right here. In fact, raise the price on them. Call it the stupid tax. Some potential buyers are more trouble than they're worth....
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No.   There will be other buyers, and if not, drop the price.


This right here. In fact, raise the price on them. Call it the stupid tax. Some potential buyers are more trouble than they're worth....


They sound like the kind of people that will still be a pain after buying it. They will come back 6 months later wanting you pay for brakes.
Link Posted: 1/24/2021 11:42:53 PM EDT
[#5]
No.
Link Posted: 1/24/2021 11:58:09 PM EDT
[#6]
Screw that, she has no business trying to buy anything. 2 months from now she will want you to pay for new brakes or a flat tire.
Sell it to one of the online car places and forget about it. You've already wasted enough time on her.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 12:09:27 AM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:
Almost 4 pages to finally explain that your Toyota is really a Scion? Come on dude.

Are you advertising it as a Toyota in real life too?
View Quote
This, OP is being shifty. Makes me wonder what else his 1/2 truths are hiding.




OP: I am selling a Lamborghini, no I mean a Bentley, no I mean a Bugatti!!! I mean a Porsche!!! no no I mean an Audi..

OP:ok ok I am selling a VW Passat. Why can people not bee honest with me???
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 12:10:41 AM EDT
[#8]
2 million dollars
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 12:10:57 AM EDT
[#9]
I’m getting a vibe she is divorced with other issues.  Just a guess.  

But hard pass. Local yota dealer at best but she sounds like the type that would have issue with break pad wear,
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 12:21:35 AM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:


I disagree.  

The car in question has no transmission dipstick (as with many modern cars).  You can't just pull up the hood and sample the transmission fluid in the parking lot of the dealer.

Also, no way to do a water pressure test in the dealer parking lot or on a test drive. If you could find a local self-service car wash you might be able to kludge one up -- IF they let you take it to a car wash as part of the test drive, with the sales guy in the seat next to you.  

Body damage is a crap shoot.   Most people don't have paint thickness gauges, and I have a ton of detailing stuff (and formal training).  Hell, most detailers don't have PTGs.  I also don't do enough used car inspections to have soft magnets to detect bondo.  Yes, you can look at body panels and gaps (and you should) but again it's not always easy to detect.  

I'll add another one -- my local mechanic will also do a compression test (for an additional fee, around $150).  Again, not something anyone can do on a test drive.

Last, most consumer grade OBD2 scanners pale in comparison to the professional models used by mechanics.  Forget about those $30 scanners on Amazon, they don't give you enough information.  My $100 BlueDriver gives a lot more data but still doesn't pull as much history/codes as a pro model.

All I can say is that those three inspections paid for themselves.  If a seller has nothing to hide, they'll permit an inspection.  Otherwise, I walk.  Granted, the cars I'm considering are much more expensive than a $7k Toyota (no slight intended to OP), but the principle of avoiding a lemon are the same.  YMMV.

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It's all about how deep you want to go into it (lol). If a seller is a shit bag, you will only scratch the surface with a mobile inspection. There may be an additive in the oil to silence a major and otherwise undetected issue, stop leak in any of the fluids, a head gasket leak concealed by a fresh oil change (I caught this one once by checking the oil filler cap instead of just the dipstick), mil codes cleared just prior to test drive (I got burned on this one once on a private sale- worth it to check emissions readiness, especially in a location that requires you pass emissions), the list goes on. I'm a sucker because if something gets snuck by me, I can't do that to the next guy. So I take a major hit when selling. Honesty is worth that, just wish it was more common on the purchasing end. I've done that on a gun too. Jammomatic that I bought used. Sold it shortly after with full disclosure for a decent loss.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 12:25:53 AM EDT
[#11]
I had a buyer buy a Toyota MR2 from me that wanted to do an inspection. No problem met them at the local Toyota dealer. They were happy with the report we exchanged money no big deal.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 1:50:00 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
I absolutely wouldn’t let them drive my car 100 miles.

If I was certain they were serious and nobody else was interested, I’d drive it to their mechanic myself. The car doesn’t leave my sight until the title gets signed over.
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Correction the car doesn't leave your sight until the money hits your hand
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 2:13:09 AM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:


I disagree.  

The car in question has no transmission dipstick (as with many modern cars).  You can't just pull up the hood and sample the transmission fluid in the parking lot of the dealer.

Also, no way to do a water pressure test in the dealer parking lot or on a test drive. If you could find a local self-service car wash you might be able to kludge one up -- IF they let you take it to a car wash as part of the test drive, with the sales guy in the seat next to you.  

Body damage is a crap shoot.   Most people don't have paint thickness gauges, and I have a ton of detailing stuff (and formal training).  Hell, most detailers don't have PTGs.  I also don't do enough used car inspections to have soft magnets to detect bondo.  Yes, you can look at body panels and gaps (and you should) but again it's not always easy to detect.  

I'll add another one -- my local mechanic will also do a compression test (for an additional fee, around $150).  Again, not something anyone can do on a test drive.

Last, most consumer grade OBD2 scanners pale in comparison to the professional models used by mechanics.  Forget about those $30 scanners on Amazon, they don't give you enough information.  My $100 BlueDriver gives a lot more data but still doesn't pull as much history/codes as a pro model.

All I can say is that those three inspections paid for themselves.  If a seller has nothing to hide, they'll permit an inspection.  Otherwise, I walk.  Granted, the cars I'm considering are much more expensive than a $7k Toyota (no slight intended to OP), but the principle of avoiding a lemon are the same.  YMMV.

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I won't buy a used car without a mechanic inspection.  Car Fax and Auto Check are not perfect.  I've DQ'd three cars over the last two years (all with less than 50k miles on the odo) due to mechanic inspections that revealed major issues that both Car Fax and Auto Check did not catch, and a test drive (even with a semi-knowledgeable car guy like myself) would not have caught.   Every decent car buying service/channel (e.g. The HomeWork Guy) will say "no" to purchasing a used car without an inspection.  

The fact that your potential buyer is willing to shell out their cash for an inspection shows that they are serious.  However, 100 miles is too much (IMO).

How about some options?

1.  Say you'll accept an inspection from a local (within your preferred radius) Toyota dealer or AAA-approved independent mechanic.  You don't need to have AAA membership to find an approved local mechanic, and I usually double check against Yelp and Google reviews to ensure the inspection shop is decent.  I've used this route to inspect cars not in range from my two local mechanics and it works well.  

2.  Refer them to mobile inspection services.  I have not used these myself, but for certain types of vehicles they can make sense.  My dad is a PCA (Porsche Club of America) member, and there is one mobile inspection service that apparently it held in high regard for P-cars on their forums.  I can't remember their name right now but I did ask them and they only do Porsche cars.  You may refer them to Lemon Squad or a similar mobile inspection service that will come to you and save you the hassle.

Hope things work out.  I'm stunned at the number of dealers that will not permit a third party inspection for a used car (non-CPO) in my area.  


What were the major issues that your mechanic identified?


You're gonna love these:

1.  Water leak (most likely in moonroof).  Visible water pooling inside the car (under the floormats).  The car had been stored outside (small independent car lot) and it hadn't rained for over a week.  The mechanic (in this case, a dealer)'s inspection regime usually included a "water test" but they didn't run the test for fear of making the issue worse.  In this area, which was hit hard by flood cars being sold after Hurricane Sandy we are all a bit wary of this issue.  I don't think this was a flood car.  

2.  Transmission abuse.  Mechanic pulled a sample of the transmission fluid -- "burned" dark color fluid was a dead giveaway.  

3.  Undisclosed accident/body damage.  Car Fax and Auto Check said no accidents.  Mechanic pulled me aside and said "this car's been in a wreck".  Misaligned body panels, overspray on interior jambs, etc.  

The money I spent on mechanic inspections was worth every penny (usually between $100-150)!  All cars had less than 50k miles and were a decently reliable brand (Subaru).  



Doesn't sound like you needed a mechanic to find those issues if you have even the slightest clue of how to inspect a used car.


I disagree.  

The car in question has no transmission dipstick (as with many modern cars).  You can't just pull up the hood and sample the transmission fluid in the parking lot of the dealer.

Also, no way to do a water pressure test in the dealer parking lot or on a test drive. If you could find a local self-service car wash you might be able to kludge one up -- IF they let you take it to a car wash as part of the test drive, with the sales guy in the seat next to you.  

Body damage is a crap shoot.   Most people don't have paint thickness gauges, and I have a ton of detailing stuff (and formal training).  Hell, most detailers don't have PTGs.  I also don't do enough used car inspections to have soft magnets to detect bondo.  Yes, you can look at body panels and gaps (and you should) but again it's not always easy to detect.  

I'll add another one -- my local mechanic will also do a compression test (for an additional fee, around $150).  Again, not something anyone can do on a test drive.

Last, most consumer grade OBD2 scanners pale in comparison to the professional models used by mechanics.  Forget about those $30 scanners on Amazon, they don't give you enough information.  My $100 BlueDriver gives a lot more data but still doesn't pull as much history/codes as a pro model.

All I can say is that those three inspections paid for themselves.  If a seller has nothing to hide, they'll permit an inspection.  Otherwise, I walk.  Granted, the cars I'm considering are much more expensive than a $7k Toyota (no slight intended to OP), but the principle of avoiding a lemon are the same.  YMMV.



I'll give you the no dipstick tube since it's a bit more involved but the body damage and water leak should be easily recognizable -  looking at body panel gaps/alignment & overspray on the jambs and under the floor mats is something you can easily do.

I'm not trying to dissuade someone from having a legit mechanic inspect a used car - they can be money well spent.  I just find it laughable that wet floor boards and overspray are something that requires a mechanic to identify.

I have no problem working with a potential buyer to have a car I'm selling inspected - of course, by the time I sell a car it's in the sub $3K price range since I tend to keep cars for a very long time.  Last two cars I sold were a '97 Civic EX and '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 3:44:53 AM EDT
[#14]
I wouldn't let them drive my car 100 miles away to have it inspected. If they want to have it looked at have them find a mobile mechanic.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 4:03:11 AM EDT
[#15]
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OP. Do you have physical damage and liability coverage on the car that permits others to drive it?
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Fuck that, it's still OP dealing with all the shit.

Does the buyer have insurance that provides full coverage on borrowed vehicles?
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 1:13:09 PM EDT
[#16]
I really don't consider scion a toyota. Take it to carmax and be done and also not sure if their inspector will consider it a toyota with the scion badging.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 1:28:54 PM EDT
[#17]
If they're asking dumb questions then they already have buyers remorse and are raising objections prior to the sale.  If they have a mechanic inspect it, he'll gladly come up with a punch list and more objections.  Tell them the price is "as is, where is".  Negotiate price if you want, but realistically, you're probably wasting your time with this buyer.  They will always have some reason to not make a decision.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 1:41:20 PM EDT
[#18]
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Screw that shit. F**K NO.

I once had a customer get firey pissed because I wouldn't let her test drive to Chicago for the weekend.  She just wanted a free car for the weekend. Sounds similar.
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Did she say you could keep whatever brass you find later?
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 1:43:30 PM EDT
[#19]
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Nope.
“I’ll drive it to your mechanic and stand by while they inspect it for the sum of $xxx, which will be applied to purchase price if you buy it.”
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They may need some parts.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 1:47:35 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
I absolutely wouldn’t let them drive my car 100 miles.

If I was certain they were serious and nobody else was interested, I’d drive it to their mechanic myself. The car doesn’t leave my sight until the title gets signed over.
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Link Posted: 1/25/2021 2:10:24 PM EDT
[#21]
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non refundable deposit of like 1k and you drive it there.
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This is probably the best option other than no f'ing way.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 2:12:34 PM EDT
[#22]
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Quoted:
Hard pass.
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Link Posted: 1/25/2021 5:49:47 PM EDT
[#23]
Beat 2 million times with the 2 million dollar helicopter video.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 5:57:34 PM EDT
[#24]
Sure for a 7k deposit. Seems like they're trying to steal your car and avoid a grand theft auto charge making it into a civil case.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 6:41:39 PM EDT
[#25]
Sure, if:

1. they want to pay time for YOU to drive it down there round trip, pay for the mechanic, and pay for wear and tear. If they buy the car, they get the wear and tear back.

2. they purchase the car as-is, with an inspection clause in the bill of sale allowing them 24 hours to return the car after inspection. Upon cancellation of the sale, their deposit will be returned minus actual mileage at the GSA rate.

Either of these are equitable and limit your exposure.
Link Posted: 1/25/2021 11:45:38 PM EDT
[#26]
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Almost 4 pages to finally explain that your Toyota is really a Scion? Come on dude.

Are you advertising it as a Toyota in real life too?
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Try the KBB buy it now. I've gotten considerably more for a car compared to Carmax one time. The used car market has been in insane demand for almost a year now. I sold my '16 Audi A6 Prestige back to Carmax after 9 months for almost what I bought it for last January.

Unless you're not being honest with the condition/history and are not even remotely accurately listing the value I'm having a really tough time believing a Toyota hasn't sold within 1-2 weeks in this market.


I understate the condition. I've had exactly one person see it, and exactly one person agree to the price... And then pull the "I need to have it inspected" stuff. Part of the problem is, Scion is not known as mainstream Toyota. Also, there market here sucks for selling them. I had my 09 Tundra 4x4 crewmax listed for a good while and for well under kbb before the first person came and saw it. He also bought it. I think if anything that I'm underselling since I'm batting 1000 on first buyer sales... Maybe I should go exaggerate some...
Almost 4 pages to finally explain that your Toyota is really a Scion? Come on dude.

Are you advertising it as a Toyota in real life too?


Scion may be owned by Toyota... But it was their cheap brand they didn't want to sully the Toyota name with.

OP you're lying to us, yourself and likely to potential buyers.  You do not have a Toyota for sale, you have a Scion and you're asking too much for it.
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 1:38:23 AM EDT
[#27]
Karen can fuck right off.

Link Posted: 1/26/2021 1:52:46 AM EDT
[#28]
Just find another buyer that is really interested in buying your vehicle.
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 3:32:44 AM EDT
[#29]
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Scion may be owned by Toyota... But it was their cheap brand they didn't want to sully the Toyota name with.

OP you're lying to us, yourself and likely to potential buyers.  You do not have a Toyota for sale, you have a Scion and you're asking too much for it.
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It's the same damn thing. Some different body panels, different light housing, some different interior trim, but powertrain & chassis is damn near identical.

They aimed Scion at younger buyers, but they weren't cheapening the quality of the product. That's probably why this lady's kid is interested in it.

I wouldn't go around calling it a Toyota, but it's as much a Toyota as a 03 Pontiac Grand Prix is a 03 Buick Regal. They're both GM and made from the same parts bin but aimed at different buyers. Same concept as Lexus and Toyota, just marketed to a different buyer.
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 3:34:22 AM EDT
[#30]
Hard no
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 10:22:06 AM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:




It's the same damn thing. Some different body panels, different light housing, some different interior trim, but powertrain & chassis is damn near identical.

They aimed Scion at younger buyers, but they weren't cheapening the quality of the product. That's probably why this lady's kid is interested in it.

I wouldn't go around calling it a Toyota, but it's as much a Toyota as a 03 Pontiac Grand Prix is a 03 Buick Regal. They're both GM and made from the same parts bin but aimed at different buyers. Same concept as Lexus and Toyota, just marketed to a different buyer.
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Scion may be owned by Toyota... But it was their cheap brand they didn't want to sully the Toyota name with.

OP you're lying to us, yourself and likely to potential buyers.  You do not have a Toyota for sale, you have a Scion and you're asking too much for it.




It's the same damn thing. Some different body panels, different light housing, some different interior trim, but powertrain & chassis is damn near identical.

They aimed Scion at younger buyers, but they weren't cheapening the quality of the product. That's probably why this lady's kid is interested in it.

I wouldn't go around calling it a Toyota, but it's as much a Toyota as a 03 Pontiac Grand Prix is a 03 Buick Regal. They're both GM and made from the same parts bin but aimed at different buyers. Same concept as Lexus and Toyota, just marketed to a different buyer.
Scion's will command lower prices then the comparable Toyota branded product due to decontenting and less desirability. The OP made a misleading thread at a minimum and if he's advertising it the way he's describing it here then there's no wonder why he can't move a vehicle in an absolute sellers market.




Link Posted: 1/26/2021 12:08:29 PM EDT
[#32]
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Scion's will command lower prices then the comparable Toyota branded product due to decontenting and less desirability. The OP made a misleading thread at a minimum and if he's advertising it the way he's describing it here then there's no wonder why he can't move a vehicle in an absolute sellers market.




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Oh I agree, but lets not pretend Scion is made from every part Toyota tossed due to it failing QA or something.
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 12:35:40 PM EDT
[#33]
OP,

1.  You have a very interested buyer.
2.  You have a probably sale staring you in the face.
3.  You stated that you needed the money.
4.  Cut your losses?  How much did it cost you, other than your time?   Your time is cheap. (See #3).


Make them leave a deposit and take the car to their mechanic. Probably got fucked before and has only one mechanic that they trust.  If that guy says ok, that car is sold.

Link Posted: 1/26/2021 12:36:34 PM EDT
[#34]
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The mileage is relative.   Around here everything is 30-50 miles away.  

Is an inspection reasonable.   Yes.

Does it matter where the mechanic is located?   I guess that depends on how bad you want to sell it.
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This, I use to drive 170 a day to and from work. Now it's 60.
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 12:51:31 PM EDT
[#35]
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Have the mechanic come to you.
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This.

I've had buyers show up with a mechanic. If it's worth it to them, they will. If not, keep advertising.
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 12:52:38 PM EDT
[#36]
It doesn't seem that far out of line.  If you are priced on the higher side and they are the only interested buyer, perhaps it makes sense to put together a purchase agreement subject to the mechanic's inspection report.  I'd include a non refundable deposit of at least $1,000 and also include agreed purchase price with exceptions depending on the mechanic's report.  The mechanic will likely find something needed (an used car can have something done to it), so maybe stipulatate the agreed purchase price provided that less than $1,000 of mechanical work is needed?

100 miles round trip is 50 miles each way.  In my city that's just one side of town to the other
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 12:53:22 PM EDT
[#37]
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Oh I agree, but lets not pretend Scion is made from every part Toyota tossed due to it failing QA or something.
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Scion's will command lower prices then the comparable Toyota branded product due to decontenting and less desirability. The OP made a misleading thread at a minimum and if he's advertising it the way he's describing it here then there's no wonder why he can't move a vehicle in an absolute sellers market.






Oh I agree, but lets not pretend Scion is made from every part Toyota tossed due to it failing QA or something.


And I did not insinuate that.  

Have you driven a Scion?  I have.  They are a cheaper brand.  Everything about it feels that way too.  It is not a Toyota,  it is a sub-brand made by Toyota.  Yes, they share a ton of important parts.

You know what they don't share though?   Resale value
Link Posted: 1/26/2021 12:57:33 PM EDT
[#38]
Id tell those scammers piss off. Youre not getting a free vehicle rental. Buy the car or not.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 12:34:06 AM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


It's all about how deep you want to go into it (lol). If a seller is a shit bag, you will only scratch the surface with a mobile inspection. There may be an additive in the oil to silence a major and otherwise undetected issue, stop leak in any of the fluids, a head gasket leak concealed by a fresh oil change (I caught this one once by checking the oil filler cap instead of just the dipstick), mil codes cleared just prior to test drive (I got burned on this one once on a private sale- worth it to check emissions readiness, especially in a location that requires you pass emissions), the list goes on. I'm a sucker because if something gets snuck by me, I can't do that to the next guy. So I take a major hit when selling. Honesty is worth that, just wish it was more common on the purchasing end. I've done that on a gun too. Jammomatic that I bought used. Sold it shortly after with full disclosure for a decent loss.
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Quoted:


I disagree.  

The car in question has no transmission dipstick (as with many modern cars).  You can't just pull up the hood and sample the transmission fluid in the parking lot of the dealer.

Also, no way to do a water pressure test in the dealer parking lot or on a test drive. If you could find a local self-service car wash you might be able to kludge one up -- IF they let you take it to a car wash as part of the test drive, with the sales guy in the seat next to you.  

Body damage is a crap shoot.   Most people don't have paint thickness gauges, and I have a ton of detailing stuff (and formal training).  Hell, most detailers don't have PTGs.  I also don't do enough used car inspections to have soft magnets to detect bondo.  Yes, you can look at body panels and gaps (and you should) but again it's not always easy to detect.  

I'll add another one -- my local mechanic will also do a compression test (for an additional fee, around $150).  Again, not something anyone can do on a test drive.

Last, most consumer grade OBD2 scanners pale in comparison to the professional models used by mechanics.  Forget about those $30 scanners on Amazon, they don't give you enough information.  My $100 BlueDriver gives a lot more data but still doesn't pull as much history/codes as a pro model.

All I can say is that those three inspections paid for themselves.  If a seller has nothing to hide, they'll permit an inspection.  Otherwise, I walk.  Granted, the cars I'm considering are much more expensive than a $7k Toyota (no slight intended to OP), but the principle of avoiding a lemon are the same.  YMMV.



It's all about how deep you want to go into it (lol). If a seller is a shit bag, you will only scratch the surface with a mobile inspection. There may be an additive in the oil to silence a major and otherwise undetected issue, stop leak in any of the fluids, a head gasket leak concealed by a fresh oil change (I caught this one once by checking the oil filler cap instead of just the dipstick), mil codes cleared just prior to test drive (I got burned on this one once on a private sale- worth it to check emissions readiness, especially in a location that requires you pass emissions), the list goes on. I'm a sucker because if something gets snuck by me, I can't do that to the next guy. So I take a major hit when selling. Honesty is worth that, just wish it was more common on the purchasing end. I've done that on a gun too. Jammomatic that I bought used. Sold it shortly after with full disclosure for a decent loss.


Yeah I agree that a mobile inspection is not ideal by any stretch, which is why all my used car inspections have involved driving the car to my local mechanic, or if I am out of my area to a well vetted AAA approved mechanic or dealer that sells that brand car.   I wonder if those mobile inspections are worth it or not -- at least the lower end ones like Lemon Squad.  Maybe the higher end ones like the ones recommended by the Porsche Club of America and FerrariChat have mobile lifts and professional grade OBD2 scanners, etc.

Most dealers and AAA independent shops will basically put the cars through the same multi-point inspection that a "certified used" car would go through.  While I suppose a lot of the "we check 100+ points on your car!!!" message is hype, I have generally gotten good value out of my inspections to date.  I generally get 1-2 hours of a professional mechanic's time looking over the car (and test driving it) for $100-150, which isn't a bad value at all.

I hear you on the disclosure part.  I sold a ParaOrdnance 1911 (bought new) to a guy after losing confidence in the gun after the hammer wouldn't reliably stay cocked back.  Sort of a problem for a single action gun!   I sent the gun back to Para and they fixed it but ended up selling it at a loss (and made it very clear to the buyer about the history of the gun).  Can't saddle the next guy with my problems, especially on something that might be used for self defense.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 12:48:09 AM EDT
[#40]
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I'll give you the no dipstick tube since it's a bit more involved but the body damage and water leak should be easily recognizable -  looking at body panel gaps/alignment & overspray on the jambs and under the floor mats is something you can easily do.

I'm not trying to dissuade someone from having a legit mechanic inspect a used car - they can be money well spent.  I just find it laughable that wet floor boards and overspray are something that requires a mechanic to identify.

I have no problem working with a potential buyer to have a car I'm selling inspected - of course, by the time I sell a car it's in the sub $3K price range since I tend to keep cars for a very long time.  Last two cars I sold were a '97 Civic EX and '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8.
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I won't buy a used car without a mechanic inspection.  Car Fax and Auto Check are not perfect.  I've DQ'd three cars over the last two years (all with less than 50k miles on the odo) due to mechanic inspections that revealed major issues that both Car Fax and Auto Check did not catch, and a test drive (even with a semi-knowledgeable car guy like myself) would not have caught.   Every decent car buying service/channel (e.g. The HomeWork Guy) will say "no" to purchasing a used car without an inspection.  

The fact that your potential buyer is willing to shell out their cash for an inspection shows that they are serious.  However, 100 miles is too much (IMO).

How about some options?

1.  Say you'll accept an inspection from a local (within your preferred radius) Toyota dealer or AAA-approved independent mechanic.  You don't need to have AAA membership to find an approved local mechanic, and I usually double check against Yelp and Google reviews to ensure the inspection shop is decent.  I've used this route to inspect cars not in range from my two local mechanics and it works well.  

2.  Refer them to mobile inspection services.  I have not used these myself, but for certain types of vehicles they can make sense.  My dad is a PCA (Porsche Club of America) member, and there is one mobile inspection service that apparently it held in high regard for P-cars on their forums.  I can't remember their name right now but I did ask them and they only do Porsche cars.  You may refer them to Lemon Squad or a similar mobile inspection service that will come to you and save you the hassle.

Hope things work out.  I'm stunned at the number of dealers that will not permit a third party inspection for a used car (non-CPO) in my area.  


What were the major issues that your mechanic identified?


You're gonna love these:

1.  Water leak (most likely in moonroof).  Visible water pooling inside the car (under the floormats).  The car had been stored outside (small independent car lot) and it hadn't rained for over a week.  The mechanic (in this case, a dealer)'s inspection regime usually included a "water test" but they didn't run the test for fear of making the issue worse.  In this area, which was hit hard by flood cars being sold after Hurricane Sandy we are all a bit wary of this issue.  I don't think this was a flood car.  

2.  Transmission abuse.  Mechanic pulled a sample of the transmission fluid -- "burned" dark color fluid was a dead giveaway.  

3.  Undisclosed accident/body damage.  Car Fax and Auto Check said no accidents.  Mechanic pulled me aside and said "this car's been in a wreck".  Misaligned body panels, overspray on interior jambs, etc.  

The money I spent on mechanic inspections was worth every penny (usually between $100-150)!  All cars had less than 50k miles and were a decently reliable brand (Subaru).  



Doesn't sound like you needed a mechanic to find those issues if you have even the slightest clue of how to inspect a used car.


I disagree.  

The car in question has no transmission dipstick (as with many modern cars).  You can't just pull up the hood and sample the transmission fluid in the parking lot of the dealer.

Also, no way to do a water pressure test in the dealer parking lot or on a test drive. If you could find a local self-service car wash you might be able to kludge one up -- IF they let you take it to a car wash as part of the test drive, with the sales guy in the seat next to you.  

Body damage is a crap shoot.   Most people don't have paint thickness gauges, and I have a ton of detailing stuff (and formal training).  Hell, most detailers don't have PTGs.  I also don't do enough used car inspections to have soft magnets to detect bondo.  Yes, you can look at body panels and gaps (and you should) but again it's not always easy to detect.  

I'll add another one -- my local mechanic will also do a compression test (for an additional fee, around $150).  Again, not something anyone can do on a test drive.

Last, most consumer grade OBD2 scanners pale in comparison to the professional models used by mechanics.  Forget about those $30 scanners on Amazon, they don't give you enough information.  My $100 BlueDriver gives a lot more data but still doesn't pull as much history/codes as a pro model.

All I can say is that those three inspections paid for themselves.  If a seller has nothing to hide, they'll permit an inspection.  Otherwise, I walk.  Granted, the cars I'm considering are much more expensive than a $7k Toyota (no slight intended to OP), but the principle of avoiding a lemon are the same.  YMMV.



I'll give you the no dipstick tube since it's a bit more involved but the body damage and water leak should be easily recognizable -  looking at body panel gaps/alignment & overspray on the jambs and under the floor mats is something you can easily do.

I'm not trying to dissuade someone from having a legit mechanic inspect a used car - they can be money well spent.  I just find it laughable that wet floor boards and overspray are something that requires a mechanic to identify.

I have no problem working with a potential buyer to have a car I'm selling inspected - of course, by the time I sell a car it's in the sub $3K price range since I tend to keep cars for a very long time.  Last two cars I sold were a '97 Civic EX and '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8.


Yeah I'm with you there ... there are a lot of things that most buyers can check for themselves.   I don't know how I missed the wet floor boards, especially after my last car buying experience after Hurricane Sandy.  Sandy hit our area HARD in late October 2012 and it was reported that several manufacturers had to write off a ton of new cars due to flooding.  Two months later, my job moved so I had to go car shopping.  I was constantly checking cars under the floor mats, trunk liners and spare tire wells to detect water damage.   Guess I forgot about hurricanes in that we haven't been slammed by one up here since.  

I am worried that as cars become more computers than cars that it will be harder for regular Joes (and Janes) to find trouble spots (and more importantly, fix them) without professional help.   I've been looking at newer cars that have the cameras for automatic braking, lane departure and all that stuff -- but if the windshield has been replaced and has not been calibrated to the cameras the systems won't necessarily work properly.  How is a regular person supposed to tell if a windshield is calibrated or not, especially on a cursory test drive?  

Personally I am longing for the day for when cars were a lot simpler ...
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 1:06:27 AM EDT
[#41]
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And I did not insinuate that.  

Have you driven a Scion?  I have.  They are a cheaper brand.  Everything about it feels that way too.  It is not a Toyota,  it is a sub-brand made by Toyota.  Yes, they share a ton of important parts.

You know what they don't share though?   Resale value
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Scion's will command lower prices then the comparable Toyota branded product due to decontenting and less desirability. The OP made a misleading thread at a minimum and if he's advertising it the way he's describing it here then there's no wonder why he can't move a vehicle in an absolute sellers market.






Oh I agree, but lets not pretend Scion is made from every part Toyota tossed due to it failing QA or something.


And I did not insinuate that.  

Have you driven a Scion?  I have.  They are a cheaper brand.  Everything about it feels that way too.  It is not a Toyota,  it is a sub-brand made by Toyota.  Yes, they share a ton of important parts.

You know what they don't share though?   Resale value


I don't want to derail OP's thread too much, so I'll post this and drop the conversation. Respond if you wish, but my only intent in replying to you originally was to dispel this apparently common notion that OP grossly misrepresented the car by calling it a Toyota instead of an inferior Scion. It wasn't to call you out specifically, just to put the facts out there.

I would disagree that you didn't insinuate that Scion was inferior. I believe you did insinuate that by saying they were Toyota's cheap brand they didn't want to sully the Toyota name with since Toyota's "name" is based upon reliability. It's not based on exciting cars despite having some in the lineup, and it's not based on luxury despite having some in the lineup. Toyotas have resale value because they're reliable, but they're commonly considered utterly boring appliance cars that are just reliable as hell. Minor exceptions to their enthusiast focused vehicles.

FWIW, I have driven plenty of Scions. I spent a decent amount of time working in independent shops and slinging wrenches so I was exposed to quite the variety of makes and models, and beyond those short stints performing test drives I have a decent amount of seat time behind the wheel of a Scion FR-S. The FR-S is literally the same vehicle as the Toyota 86 (it even has 86 badges on the side of it) and in fact the FR-S was the only way Toyota offered the platform in the US until Scion folded and they continued to sell it under the Toyota badge proper. Again, we're talking about slight cosmetic differences on the outside and slightly different interiors. All minor changes any company does when re-badging their cars, generally to better tailor it to the intended market. In Scion's case that was young buyers, so yes there was a emphasis on keeping things affordable instead of trying to make something like their interior match a more expensive German equivalent, but it's not like your basic Toyota can claim to be much, if any, better. For the most part, I'd say every Scion I've sat my butt in was of better quality and feel than many of the brands they competed against. I never noticed any major difference compared to a Toyota except that the Scion was a more youthful design. There is literally only a single thing about them that ever made me say "oh, this is a cheap Toyota" and that was the price, which you pointed out by mentioning their resale. A point I've already acknowledged and agreed with, and one that is exactly why I'd also not representing a Scion as a Toyota if I had been the OP which is something I also already said. Let's just not act like multiple people didn't already say "hey that's pretty cheap for a used Toyota" and then as soon as OP revealed it was actually a Scion people didn't immediately assume OP was trying to rip people off by representing his Scion as a Toyota. Hard to blame a guy for calling something a Toyota when every time it needed service it likely visited the Toyota dealer, or since he's a mechanic himself he likely bought those parts from the dealer and they came in packaging with Toyota branding, and the stickers and parts inside the vehicle likely also had Toyota branding on them. Shit, I'm a car guy and I frequently refer to my GMC Canyon as a Colorado simply because "Canyon" doesn't stick in my head for some reason, it happens. Realistically the only true reason a Scion should resale for less than a Toyota is that the owner was more likely to have beat on it and neglected maintenance, due to being owned by younger people.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 1:31:04 AM EDT
[#42]
200 not refundable deposit or take it to a local dealer.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 2:03:50 AM EDT
[#43]
Guar-un-tee you they'll find 2k worth of crap wrong with it and wont budge on the carmax price.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 2:22:17 AM EDT
[#44]
I smell cheapskates. After their "mechanic" inspects there will be a list of nitpicks that they will use to jew your price down.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 7:56:25 PM EDT
[#45]
Update in op
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 8:06:13 PM EDT
[#46]
Atta boy.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 8:11:38 PM EDT
[#47]
Good for you.
Congratulations
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 8:18:49 PM EDT
[#48]
Thanks to all who helped.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 8:26:53 PM EDT
[#49]
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I can't believe you defrauded some sweet old couple with your knock off Toyota...

Congrats on the sale.
Link Posted: 1/27/2021 9:39:34 PM EDT
[#50]
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