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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:52:27 AM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:52:49 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They do not. Do you really think a battery saw has more ass than the big pro use gas saws? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Get chaps, battery chainsaws cut through chaps, don't get a battery chainsaw as a greenhorn They do not. Do you really think a battery saw has more ass than the big pro use gas saws? A lot of newer nicer chap brands are now rated for battery use. The old ones have been cut through. Hell I had a guy get a nasty gash from a gas saw going part way through his chaps I don't think they're all created equal |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:55:56 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Get chaps, battery chainsaws cut through chaps, don't get a battery chainsaw as a greenhorn This- get a small gas saw and chaps and a good helmet with ear muffs and face screen. Electric saws have considerable instant torque and will cut through chaps, pants, and flesh with ease. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:56:11 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:  Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: My local dealer looked at me like i had 2 heads when i asked for a 12" bar. They swapped the bar and gave it a test run in the shop. He came back up front and told me "I was alittle skeptical, but god damn, I am sold. That thing rips!" Thanks again.......never had ANY idea a 12" saw would be good. My only worry (but I know about this and am ALWAYS careful) is it might be easier to have the "tip" getting into the cut. Have you noticed that and do you have to be very careful about it (i.e., a lot more than a normal length bar)? |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:57:04 AM EDT
[#5]
FWIW a Bahco Laplander for folding or Silky ZUBAT for fixed hand saws will cut a surprising amount of wood. I use hand saws quite a bit.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:57:27 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A lot of newer nicer chap brands are now rated for battery use. The old ones have been cut through. Hell I had a guy get a nasty gash from a gas saw going part way through his chaps I don't think they're all created equal Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Get chaps, battery chainsaws cut through chaps, don't get a battery chainsaw as a greenhorn They do not. Do you really think a battery saw has more ass than the big pro use gas saws? A lot of newer nicer chap brands are now rated for battery use. The old ones have been cut through. Hell I had a guy get a nasty gash from a gas saw going part way through his chaps I don't think they're all created equal What are the chances that chaps that have been in service for more than say 10 years have broken down? Just like old climbing gear, they probably wear and and require replacing on certain intervals. Here's a thread that touches on it, one guy says his old chaps were deemed no longer acceptable with modern standards. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/retire-old-chaps.92039/ Probably like most PPE though, it depends on a lot of factors when the accident happens. It's designed to mitigate injury, it might not be a guarantee you still don't get a little hurt, but they will reduce the potential injury substantially. Getting a big gash from a high powered saw is worlds better than losing a leg. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:00:31 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My only worry (but I know about this and am ALWAYS careful) is it might be easier to have the "tip" getting into the cut. Have you noticed that and do you have to be very careful about it (i.e., a lot more than a normal length bar)? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: My local dealer looked at me like i had 2 heads when i asked for a 12" bar. They swapped the bar and gave it a test run in the shop. He came back up front and told me "I was alittle skeptical, but god damn, I am sold. That thing rips!" Thanks again.......never had ANY idea a 12" saw would be good. My only worry (but I know about this and am ALWAYS careful) is it might be easier to have the "tip" getting into the cut. Have you noticed that and do you have to be very careful about it (i.e., a lot more than a normal length bar)? I havent had any issues. I have cut everything from twigs to bucking stuff that needed to be cut from both sides to get through.. I have used bottom, top of the blade as well as plunge cut and this thing has chewed up anything I throw at it no problem. It's alittle monster and honestly my go to saw with how light it is. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:02:16 AM EDT
[#8]
Before you buy your first chainsaw buy a CAT tourniquet and watch some YouTube vids and practice using the TQ. Then buy the chainsaw.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:03:25 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Think about a reciprocating saw like a sawsall. Many battery powered options are out there, or corded if you want run time and don't want to mess with batteries. . Paired with very good arborist blades it will do what you want, and could be more versatile than a chainsaw. We just used a sawsall to take down an 8" diameter fruit tree, and cut the roots to pull the stump. I wouldn't run my chainsaw in the dirt for the roots, so we used the sawsall for everything.. Good luck in your search. @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:06:44 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Think about a reciprocating saw like a sawsall. Many battery powered options are out there, or corded if you want run time and don't want to mess with batteries. . Paired with very good arborist blades it will do what you want, and could be more versatile than a chainsaw. We just used a sawsall to take down an 8" diameter fruit tree, and cut the roots to pull the stump. I wouldn't run my chainsaw in the dirt for the roots, so we used the sawsall for everything.. Good luck in your search. @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. I bought some big ass pruning blades once that worked really well, but burned up pretty quick. They were probably 12" and pretty nasty, not ideal for normal cutting, but like he said, great for stuff that you know has wire and rocks and other nasty stuff in it. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:10:09 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Think about a reciprocating saw like a sawsall. Many battery powered options are out there, or corded if you want run time and don't want to mess with batteries. . Paired with very good arborist blades it will do what you want, and could be more versatile than a chainsaw. We just used a sawsall to take down an 8" diameter fruit tree, and cut the roots to pull the stump. I wouldn't run my chainsaw in the dirt for the roots, so we used the sawsall for everything.. Good luck in your search. @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. https://www.homedepot.com/p/307486209 https://www.homedepot.com/p/205855908 I've done the same and it works well. Sticking a demo blade down into the dirt doesn't bother me whereas doing that with my chainsaw would not be OK. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:10:57 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I bought some big ass pruning blades once that worked really well, but burned up pretty quick. They were probably 12" and pretty nasty, not ideal for normal cutting, but like he said, great for stuff that you know has wire and rocks and other nasty stuff in it. Would something Iike a 20v Black and Decker with 9" or 12" pruning blades work or do I need something more like a Porter Cable or Makita? |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:11:45 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I havent had any issues. I have cut everything from twigs to bucking stuff that needed to be cut from both sides to get through.. I have used bottom, top of the blade as well as plunge cut and this thing has chewed up anything I throw at it no problem. It's alittle monster and honestly my go to saw with how light it is. Thanks!!! A 12" saw it will be!!! |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:12:58 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Would something Iike a 20v Black and Decker with 9" or 12" pruning blades work or do I need something more like a Porter Cable or Makita? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I bought some big ass pruning blades once that worked really well, but burned up pretty quick. They were probably 12" and pretty nasty, not ideal for normal cutting, but like he said, great for stuff that you know has wire and rocks and other nasty stuff in it. Would something Iike a 20v Black and Decker with 9" or 12" pruning blades work or do I need something more like a Porter Cable or Makita? Probably. For what it's worth though, I've bucked up bigger than 8" blow downs with a silky big boy hand saw (soft wood) without too much work. For smaller stuff they are awesome. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:13:02 AM EDT
[#15]
Remington or Homelite electric chainsaw. Cheap, don't need gas, work when you need. Buy it at harbor freight, Lowes, or HomeDepot about 60. OTD
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:14:04 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What are the chances that chaps that have been in service for more than say 10 years have broken down? Just like old climbing gear, they probably wear and and require replacing on certain intervals. Here's a thread that touches on it, one guy says his old chaps were deemed no longer acceptable with modern standards. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/retire-old-chaps.92039/ Probably like most PPE though, it depends on a lot of factors when the accident happens. It's designed to mitigate injury, it might not be a guarantee you still don't get a little hurt, but they will reduce the potential injury substantially. Getting a big gash from a high powered saw is worlds better than losing a leg. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Get chaps, battery chainsaws cut through chaps, don't get a battery chainsaw as a greenhorn They do not. Do you really think a battery saw has more ass than the big pro use gas saws? A lot of newer nicer chap brands are now rated for battery use. The old ones have been cut through. Hell I had a guy get a nasty gash from a gas saw going part way through his chaps I don't think they're all created equal What are the chances that chaps that have been in service for more than say 10 years have broken down? Just like old climbing gear, they probably wear and and require replacing on certain intervals. Here's a thread that touches on it, one guy says his old chaps were deemed no longer acceptable with modern standards. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/retire-old-chaps.92039/ Probably like most PPE though, it depends on a lot of factors when the accident happens. It's designed to mitigate injury, it might not be a guarantee you still don't get a little hurt, but they will reduce the potential injury substantially. Getting a big gash from a high powered saw is worlds better than losing a leg. Good point. I doubt they were that old but they get well used |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:15:52 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They do not. Do you really think a battery saw has more ass than the big pro use gas saws? Look at Stihls website, they say their brand chaps Do Not stop most brands of cordless saws. Get a effin clue. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:16:54 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Probably. For what it's worth though, I've bucked up bigger than 8" blow downs with a silky big boy hand saw (soft wood) without too much work. For smaller stuff they are awesome. I have a Wicked hand saw that works great for smaller stuff. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:18:05 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What are the chances that chaps that have been in service for more than say 10 years have broken down? Just like old climbing gear, they probably wear and and require replacing on certain intervals. Here's a thread that touches on it, one guy says his old chaps were deemed no longer acceptable with modern standards. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/retire-old-chaps.92039/ Probably like most PPE though, it depends on a lot of factors when the accident happens. It's designed to mitigate injury, it might not be a guarantee you still don't get a little hurt, but they will reduce the potential injury substantially. Getting a big gash from a high powered saw is worlds better than losing a leg. My chaps are 2 years old, bought from where I bought my saw. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:19:56 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Look at Stihls website, they say their brand chaps Do Not stop most brands of cordless saws. Get a effin clue. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: They do not. Do you really think a battery saw has more ass than the big pro use gas saws? Look at Stihls website, they say their brand chaps Do Not stop most brands of cordless saws. Get a effin clue. I bet if you test them they will work fine. Lawyer talk to prevent lawsuits until testing is complete. Here's a test on Stihl chaps, with their battery saw from 2018. They work fine. Better the battery saw actually, because naturally it's not nearly as powerful as the gas saw used in the control cut. https://youtu.be/kelAHD6AYII |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:22:27 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have an 18" Stihl 250, my dad has a Stihl 290 or something 20", a battery Stihl MS140 and a nice Echo pole saw. The battery one gets used more than anything else around the houses and does great. Is your 250 a real bitch to start? Cause mine is, brand new. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:32:30 AM EDT
[#22]
I have a cheap harbor freight electric saw for crap small jobs and roots.
My Ryobi Pole saw has been one hell of a useful saw and works well. Replaced my old Stihl 18" saw with a new Echo and its WAY better than my old Stihl saw.    
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:34:08 AM EDT
[#23]
Gas is better when new. downside of gas if the maintenance of the engine. Not the actual maintenance but the issues where it won't start.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:37:11 AM EDT
[#24]
Exactly, chainsaws rely on centrifugal force from the clutch. Bind that up with a protective chaps and it will stop the chain. Reciprocating saws are like a piston in an engine and have more of a start stop start stop motion and therefore will cut through more material like protective chaps easily because it is a constantly jolting force. A chainsaw is a steady continuous force. Chainsaws work by using a depth of cut. If the cut is too big such as with a protective chap it is like hitting the E brake on that chain. Reciprocating saws don’t cut as big of a chip per motion so they are harder to stop.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 10:37:17 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gas is better when new. downside of gas if the maintenance of the engine. Not the actual maintenance but the issues where it won't start. Most issues can be solved by using ethanol free gas or adding seafoam to 89 or higher octane and then running the saw before storing. Also don't buy cheap oil mix, get stihl synthetic. Worst case scenario, 20mins to clean the carb. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 11:05:27 AM EDT
[#26]
The fact that trees seem much larger laying in your backyard as opposed to standing in your backyard prompted me to purchase a Stihl MS-250 a couple of years back.
Used it yesterday as a matter of fact and Spanish moss will stop it dead in its tracks. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 11:17:33 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Exactly, chainsaws rely on centrifugal force from the clutch. Bind that up with a protective chaps and it will stop the chain. Reciprocating saws are like a piston in an engine and have more of a start stop start stop motion and therefore will cut through more material like protective chaps easily because it is a constantly jolting force. A chainsaw is a steady continuous force. Chainsaws work by using a depth of cut. If the cut is too big such as with a protective chap it is like hitting the E brake on that chain. Reciprocating saws don’t cut as big of a chip per motion so they are harder to stop. When people are talking about electric saws they are talking about battery powered chainsaws. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 11:20:55 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most issues can be solved by using ethanol free gas or adding seafoam to 89 or higher octane and then running the saw before storing. Also don't buy cheap oil mix, get stihl synthetic. Worst case scenario, 20mins to clean the carb. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Gas is better when new. downside of gas if the maintenance of the engine. Not the actual maintenance but the issues where it won't start. Most issues can be solved by using ethanol free gas or adding seafoam to 89 or higher octane and then running the saw before storing. Also don't buy cheap oil mix, get stihl synthetic. Worst case scenario, 20mins to clean the carb. Depends on the usage of the equipment. Daily or weekly use saws will fare much better because they will always have fresh gas cycled in. When gas sits, ethanol or not, things start to varnish. It's the reason I went to a battery powered weedwhacker, so much better to just hang it up in the fall and dig it out in the summer when I need it, plop in a battery and go. Also the same reason I plan on getting a battery powered saw. I don't burn firewood anymore, so my gas saw just sits. I think I used it twice this summer, only a matter of time until I have to change the carb (again, after about 6 years of using it for firewood the carb took a shit and I changed it, this was maybe 5-6 years ago). It doesn't make sense to deal with the maintenance and service requirement of gas if electric will work just as well for the application. As far as cleaning the carb, it's almost pointless now with how cheap they can be replaced. I keep extra carbs on hand for my screed, which has the small Honda 4 stroke on it. Take 5 minutes to swap them if it starts to act shitty. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 11:28:01 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For the last thirty years, I’ve owned one or more chainsaws, but I’m very much an occasional user. I wouldn’t presume to give anyone advice on technique, but I will tell you what I’ve figured out about them: 1) Chainsaws have an insatiable hunger for human flesh. I’ve been bit a couple of times by electric woodworking tools. In both cases, I’d be missing very useful body parts if it’d been a chainsaw 2) Go slow; stay scared. Every time I unlock the storage shed, I think, “Years from now, am I going to remember this as the last time I could walk without assistance, cut my own steak, or have a face that didn’t make small children hide behind their mother.” The first time I don’t think this, will be the day I sell them. 3) Become proficient at throwing the thing. My personal philosophy is, when things go south, I’m going east and that bitch is going west. Good luck and enjoy. Chainsaws are hella fun. This... Always think of how the cutting part is to fall if you or it lose its place. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 12:00:38 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well he's least likely to injure himself with the recip saw and if all you are doing is light limb duty there's no need for a chainsaw. As a bonus the recip saw can perform a variety of tasks (an electric chainsaw is a uni-tasker) and the blades are cheap and replaceable without tools. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Use a reciprocating saw. If he's never used a chainsaw, my guess would be he's never used a reciprocating saw, either. Well he's least likely to injure himself with the recip saw and if all you are doing is light limb duty there's no need for a chainsaw. As a bonus the recip saw can perform a variety of tasks (an electric chainsaw is a uni-tasker) and the blades are cheap and replaceable without tools. Truth! |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 12:28:35 PM EDT
[#31]
For a true mini, the Milwaukee M12 Hatchet is brilliant. I have one and it's for real a one hand operation. The next step up is the Dewalt 20v brushless 12". I have it also and it's super easy to handle. And you can snatch one for $99 right now at Home Depot and elsewhere. I wouldn't even consider a gas model unless you use it several times a month.
 Milwaukee M12 FUEL Hatchet Pruning Saw  DEWALT DCCS620P1 20V Compact 12" Chainsaw Review |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 12:42:54 PM EDT
[#32]
Battery powered. I've seen a 12 inch iirc
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:02:07 PM EDT
[#33]
I feed a small pedestal wood stove for supplemental heat and cut small wood. Finally settled on two saws for my needs after several years. One is a corded electric. The other is a 310 Echo. The Echo yields liftable chunks to the trailer and the electric finishes those chunks into cord wood size. The 14" electric is about 15 years old. The 14" Echo is about 7 years old. I cannot recommend the Echo enough. Drain and run out the gas at end of season and it fires up after two pulls, every time next season.
If you are a noob to chainsaws, get some chaps and a face shield. They do not play with flesh. Clothing is what pulls them into flesh. Hit a big leg artery and you can bleed out before help gets to you. I saw a leg artery skeeting once. Horse riding accident. If he'd not had someone to apply direct pressure, he would have died, right there. Don't even get complacent with chaps on. My uncle, a wood cutter by trade, gave me good advice years ago: " When you run a saw, make sure that is all you are doing or thinking about, the saw. Can't think about lunch, going fishing or the poon you might get Saturday night."  |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:04:55 PM EDT
[#34]
This thread has convinced me that I am completely irresponsible with a chainsaw. I just ordered some chaps and a face shield.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:05:22 PM EDT
[#35]
Have a stihl 230 cbe that's less than a year old, it's the easy start model. With stihl that means you only blow out one shoulder starting it.
Pile of shit and will need a new carb every other year. Buy Echo. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:08:49 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Think about a reciprocating saw like a sawsall. Many battery powered options are out there, or corded if you want run time and don't want to mess with batteries. . Paired with very good arborist blades it will do what you want, and could be more versatile than a chainsaw. We just used a sawsall to take down an 8" diameter fruit tree, and cut the roots to pull the stump. I wouldn't run my chainsaw in the dirt for the roots, so we used the sawsall for everything.. Good luck in your search. I'm a chainsaw geek and I'll use my cordless reciprocating saw every time I can get away with it. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:12:24 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: IC engines generate maximum torque high up in the rpm range. Electric motors generate maximum torque at stall. As the chain binds, the engine gets “weaker” and the motor gets “stronger”. That’s the theory, anyway. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: What is so magical about an electric saw that it will cut through chaps? Chaps clog the teeth and bind the saw. They work for both. IC engines generate maximum torque high up in the rpm range. Electric motors generate maximum torque at stall. As the chain binds, the engine gets “weaker” and the motor gets “stronger”. That’s the theory, anyway. There are YT videos testing the Stihl (i.e. known quality) chaps vs gas AND electric chainsaws. TL/DR quality chaps will stop electric chainsaws just fine. ***Beat. Several times |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:12:55 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What is so magical about an electric saw that it will cut through chaps? Chaps clog the teeth and bind the saw. They work for both. I think it was an issue on older saws. I don't know what, if anything has changed though. The padding in the chaps shred apart and get jammed in the clutch and drive sprocket. The argument at one point was that since the electric saws don't have a clutch, the saw would get jammed up. It's all just theory for me though. I don't use electric saws, but I wear my chaps every time I run a saw. I imagine I would continue to do so, even with an electric saw. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:18:08 PM EDT
[#39]
Get a https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS367B-Brushless-Compact-Reciprocating/dp/B01M69K91R/ref=asc_df_B01M69K91R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11546365663756839096&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018932&hvtargid=pla-499735435397&psc=1
Get extra batteries and good blades for the occasion...you don't need a chainsaw for your stated work and this will serve you a million times better...I have cut lots of 5" diameter oak & pines and limbed many many trees with these saws... |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:27:09 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Probably. For what it's worth though, I've bucked up bigger than 8" blow downs with a silky big boy hand saw (soft wood) without too much work. For smaller stuff they are awesome. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I bought some big ass pruning blades once that worked really well, but burned up pretty quick. They were probably 12" and pretty nasty, not ideal for normal cutting, but like he said, great for stuff that you know has wire and rocks and other nasty stuff in it. Would something Iike a 20v Black and Decker with 9" or 12" pruning blades work or do I need something more like a Porter Cable or Makita? Probably. For what it's worth though, I've bucked up bigger than 8" blow downs with a silky big boy hand saw (soft wood) without too much work. For smaller stuff they are awesome. Same. Cut through a ~12" tree that fell across a trail, with an 8" Silky. Not exactly efficient, but doable. HTF do you saw through a 12" trunk with an 8" saw? Cut V-notches on opposite sides with the saw, then saw through the narrower midsection between the V-notches. Heckuva lot more work, but doable when you don't have anything else handy (the tree was across a trail on a slope with the other part bound up. Once the trunk was cut through, the half that was lower, slid down the slope enough to clear the trail). For smaller than 8" tasks, either a sawzall or Silky BigBoy XL will do. Much safer, and no worries about starting, premix etc. For occasional work up to 12", the M18 battery saw works great. For regular use on thicker wood, get a gas saw. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:27:44 PM EDT
[#41]
I have a chainsaw for anything over about 4 inches, and a battery power sawzall for limbs and such. Most cutting and trimming can be easily done with sawzall. Had a Dogwood that needed trimming, sawzall did everything I needed. Just Cleared a tree that was about 10 inches thick, 1st time needed chainsaw in long time.We are covered up with those invasive wild privit bushes/trees. They will get 8 inches thick, and tree sized. I drive 4 wheeler around property with sawzall and chainsaw looking for these.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:41:20 PM EDT
[#42]
I don't understand people recommending the OP spend hundreds of dollars on a gas or battery saw for a use or an occasional use. The carb on the gas saw will end up crapped up or the expensive batteries will end up dead.
You can get a highly rate corded chainsaw at harborfreight for $50 ($40 with a coupon a lot of the time) that will work great for what the OP wants to do. 
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:43:47 PM EDT
[#43]
Get what you can afford and what’s suitable for your use; be safe and don’t cut off any body parts.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:52:06 PM EDT
[#44]
I used to always badmouth most cordless tools, especially high draw items like chainsaws. Mostly because batteries would get used up pretty quickly under heavy use. But I've used some of the newer models with larger lithium batteries, and am sold on their use for many jobs. When it comes to cordless battery tools, once you get one brand, you tend to stick with it because you have the batteries, so keep that in mind when you start buying tools.
I happen to have the 20v dewalt, and I'm pretty pleased with all the tools so far. I have a 12" cordless dewalt chainsaw, and it works well for modest jobs. Even the Ryobi tools get pretty good reviews from most users, while pros may prefer the Milwaukee. But as a simple homeowner and weekend worker, the dewalt has been great for me. My buddy has the ryobi line, and has been satisfied as well. He's a weekend user like me. But if you are less experienced with chainsaws, it still might be better just to get a good pruning blade for a sawzall (whether you have a corded or cordless) and use that. They will still get the job done, possibly a bit slower, but safer for the infrequent user. ETA: If you have a small yard, it's also worth it to just spend $50 on a heavy duty 50' or 100' extension cord, and use a corded sawzall or light chainsaw. If you are only working like this once every few months, it's not a big deal to go corded. If you have to walk 300' to prune some limbs out back, then cordless or gas come into play, either one might be appropriate, depending on the size of the job. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 2:02:37 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For the last thirty years, I've owned one or more chainsaws, but I'm very much an occasional user. I wouldn't presume to give anyone advice on technique, but I will tell you what I've figured out about them: 1) Chainsaws have an insatiable hunger for human flesh. I've been bit a couple of times by electric woodworking tools. In both cases, I'd be missing very useful body parts if it'd been a chainsaw 2) Go slow; stay scared. Every time I unlock the storage shed, I think, "Years from now, am I going to remember this as the last time I could walk without assistance, cut my own steak, or have a face that didn't make small children hide behind their mother." The first time I don't think this, will be the day I sell them. 3) Become proficient at throwing the thing. My personal philosophy is, when things go south, I'm going east and that bitch is going west. Good luck and enjoy. Chainsaws are hella fun. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 2:18:13 PM EDT
[#46]
Quoted: I'm looking for a mini chainsaw for some work in front of my house. The work I will do is small. My goal is to get things done faster. I'm not very good with chainsaws. From now on I'll have to look at how to use them. Does anyone have any information on the subject? Note: It would be much better if you throw away the pictures of your mini chainsaw. Thank you. Small? My Echo CS-2511T. Lightest gas saw in US.  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 2:49:38 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Buy chaps and wear ear and eye protection. . Chaps.....for men.  |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 2:59:06 PM EDT
[#48]
Anything less than a professional grade saw with a 28" bar you suck as a man in GD's eyes.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 3:37:00 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This or a Husqvarna 3120. Think of your family, OP. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Stihl 880 or it's your funeral. This or a Husqvarna 3120. Think of your family, OP. 3120 is a good around-the-house saw your wife can use too.  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 3:44:27 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Think about a reciprocating saw like a sawsall. Many battery powered options are out there, or corded if you want run time and don't want to mess with batteries. . Paired with very good arborist blades it will do what you want, and could be more versatile than a chainsaw. We just used a sawsall to take down an 8" diameter fruit tree, and cut the roots to pull the stump. I wouldn't run my chainsaw in the dirt for the roots, so we used the sawsall for everything.. Good luck in your search. @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. @AKengineer These 12" and the 9" work great on wet and dry wood in my experience. Plunging it into the dirt and working around the tree for roots worked really well. Interesting though, a sturdy metal-cutting blade worked about as well on roots, didn't bring as much dirt into the cut. https://www.amazon.com/12-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating-Sawzall-Blades/dp/B075J7LF4Z  Attached File Attached Filenot my photos We have a Ridgid battery powered saw and an old corded Milwaukee Sawzall with Hi/Lo speed selection. On the dry stuff either is fine. On wet stuff the Lo speed of the Milwaukee keeps the blade from gumming up with sap. Looks like many others replied as well |
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