I have a really old kegerator that I bought for $50 bucks. I spent another hundred or so to get the new tower, tap, regulator, and CO2 tank. The thing cooled great for about 2 months, but then failed to kick in after that. I hear the solinoid (sp?) click, but the fridge doesn't come on anymore. I decided that it needed freon, so I checked the back and saw that it was marked Refig 12. I got some Freeze 12 off of ebay, and I can borrow a side can tap of my dad's with R12 fittings, but tonight when I looked at the back, I can't find where to charge the thing! Maybe I am just dumb (I am admittedly dumb on this topic) but I don't know what to do. Any ideas?

Inside front
[img]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davisanthonyc/keg1.jpg[/img]

Back wide view
[img]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davisanthonyc/keg2.jpg[/img]

Back right close up
[img]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davisanthonyc/keg3.jpg[/img]

Back left close up
[img]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davisanthonyc/keg4.jpg[/img]

Thanks for the help,
tony

you will have to add a service valve to the process tube.  there are two kinds,  welded on and bolted on line piercing,  the line pierceing valve would probably be the easiest for you.  be sure to verify the proper charge by weight as listed on the name plate.  

Which tube is the service tube? Where exactly should I put the fitting?

Why are there Co2 tanks? Are you making it into one of those beer-only fridges? HEHE, I love those even though i'm only 15, my dad's friend made one, it was great. :)

You might wanna page DrFridge or FridgeDr or whatever his name is.. (I guess it'd help if I could remember his username...)  [:E]

Those line piercing valves will leak out the refrigerant after awhile and you have to recharge. I suggest that if you have to charge it, have some silver soldered on they won't leak.

AND WHAT DO YOU KNOW IT WORKS!!!!!! I swear Aimless is the one that always gets me. LOL!

OK Hex, you have a BASIC refrigeration system there. You have a thermostatand a compressor. EASY! I hope you know how to use a multimeter.


FIRST UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!.


If you do, first check the two terminals on the thermostat for continuity. when off, it should be open and when you turn it to 1 or more, you should have continuity.

If that checks out then go to your compressor. You have a two wires going to that. One is your hot lead that goes to a round black disk called an overload. that comes off and you can check continuity on that. If you get contiuity, your overload is good. If not, there is your problem.

If you are really adventurous take the relay off (under the overload) and there are three terminals on the compressor. (Common, Start and Run) touch one lead of your meter to one of the terminals and the other to the copper tubing on the refrigerator if nothing, then do the same for each of the other two termials. if there is continuity between any of those terminals and the copper tubing, your compressor is grounded and say bye bye.

DONT TAP THE REFRIGERANT LINES OF THAT UNIT!!! You are asking for more trouble than its worth.

Problem is that first the bolt on pierce valves are now illegal to leave on the unit. EPA laws and if you apply too much heat while silver soldering to the process valve.... BOOM!!!!

I have seen a tech blow the crap out of one of those applying heat on one. sounded like a shotgun in the shop... just about had everyone in the place crap their shorts.

Cool tool that Vise Grip came up with is one with a pierce valve on it for temporary use then when you are done, pinch the line, cut and solder... BEAUTIFUL!