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Posted: 12/10/2014 9:21:26 PM EDT
Picked up a project yesterday, an older Warn MX4085 D1 4k pound winch. Winch came to me in a box as pictured, and was not running when it was disassembled by the previous owner. According to the PO, the motor was first "running backwards", then "started smoking". I'm afraid all the factory installed smoke may have escaped, which may mean either a rewind or new motor all together. I've played around with Warn X8000i's in the past, and recently tore one completely down to clean, regrease, and go through the solenoids. I assume the MX has a similar planetary gear assembly, so going through it won't be too difficult. The issue is, I've never torn into a motor before, so I am not sure where to start.
It has three solenoids, so I assume two are for reverse and one is for forward. I'll check continuity across the solenoids once they're energized, and clean all the contacts. Fortunately, I have a 3-wire style remote for the winch, so I can test it. Question is, where do I start with the motor? Here are a few pics: 
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Posted: 12/10/2014 9:29:15 PM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 12/10/2014 9:55:42 PM EDT
[#2]
I am in the process of going through this 8274 I got, it ran before I took it all apart but was in need of service. I am waiting on a few seals and bearings, then its goin on my Jeep to replace my REP 8000
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Posted: 12/10/2014 10:05:20 PM EDT
[#3]
I'll have to post a few pics of my X8000i project. First, though, where should I start with the motor?
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Posted: 12/10/2014 10:21:22 PM EDT
[#4]
First check on any motor is to check if the rotor moves freely. If the bearings are shot then maybe the windings overheated trying to move it.
You can check the solenoid function by putting 12VDC at the terminals and hearing it "click". Put an OHM meter across the contacts to see if it closes. I would check the output to the motor (with the motor disconnected) to see if the proper voltage and polarity is being output. Switch back and forth. There may be a load of crap in the motor housing or the brushes may be shot. I would check the brushes before I did anything else. And the armature. I just rebuilt a generator at work that ate one set of brushes. I had a Hitachi starter on a Superglide that quit that the dealer said was not rebuildable. I tore it down, cleaned it and it worked from then on. YMMV If the windings are shorted now you can check by OHMs checking across the motor terminals. You should get a low reading. (5-20ish) If it is a permanent magnet motor, check to make sure the magnets are still secure and not broken. Seen both. Good luck with it. I had an 8K on my '83 CJ-5. It got some use. 
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Posted: 12/10/2014 10:23:43 PM EDT
[#5]
nvm
hellbent covered it |
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Posted: 12/10/2014 10:30:24 PM EDT
[#6]
The motor spins freely, that much I have checked. Any ideas on how it detaches from the mount plate? I looked on the inside of the plate, didn't see anything holding it to the motor housing. Warn tech support has emailed me a parts diagram and wiring schematic, so i am covered on that end.
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Posted: 12/10/2014 10:48:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The motor spins freely, that much I have checked. Any ideas on how it detaches from the mount plate? I looked on the inside of the plate, didn't see anything holding it to the motor housing. Warn tech support has emailed me a parts diagram and wiring schematic, so i am covered on that end. The two bolts at the other end of the motor should run all the way through and into the gear housing. ETA: go easy on it. If they are corroded in they may snap. Also: the brushes may be under the end cap. Take it apart slowly. |
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Posted: 12/10/2014 10:50:34 PM EDT
[#8]
I just rebuilt a 9000i in similar condition. Replaced the motor and wires, sandblasted and repainted. Replaced decals and gaskets. Repacked with grease, good as new.
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Posted: 12/10/2014 10:51:18 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just rebuilt a 9000i in similar condition. Replaced the motor and wires, sandblasted and repainted. Replaced decals and gaskets. Repacked with grease, good as new. http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg482/verticalgain/misc/20141004_014442_zpstxs1wdqz.jpg Nice work! Looks brand new. |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 1:41:05 PM EDT
[#10]
I went ahead and disassembled the motor, here are a few pics:
I couldn't find any evidence of any component actually being damaged, so I cleaned all the surfaces and reassembled the motor. It was a PITA to get the brushes back in place over the springs, at least to keep them in place during reassembly, but I finally figured it out. It still spun freely, so I did a quick test with a battery...everything worked OK. Motor fired right up, so it seems to be fine. The main screws were loose, so I can only assume the previous owner disassembled the motor as I did, but didn't get the brushes correctly back in position. Either way, it seems to be working fine now. Quick question. Should there be a coating of any kind of dielectric grease between the main winding of the motor and the case it slides into? |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 1:45:54 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I went ahead and disassembled the motor, here are a few pics: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor1_zps47e92e23.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor10_zpse82c04fd.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor9_zps58918c72.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor8_zps1e08939a.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor7_zpsb5d03549.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor6_zpsedc6b867.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor5_zps7a228947.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor4_zpsd6a11807.jpg I couldn't find any evidence of any component actually being damaged, so I cleaned all the surfaces and reassembled the motor. It was a PITA to get the brushes back in place over the springs, at least to keep them in place during reassembly, but I finally figured it out. It still spun freely, so I did a quick test with a battery...everything worked OK. Motor fired right up, so it seems to be fine. The main screws were loose, so I can only assume the previous owner disassembled the motor as I did, but didn't get the brushes correctly back in position. Either way, it seems to be working fine now. Quick question. Should there be a coating of any kind of dielectric grease between the main winding of the motor and the case it slides into? |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 7:16:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Yeah, I used a little 3-in-1 oil on the bearing in the cap and around the shaft.
My next goal is to pull the planetary gears, clean them up, and repack with grease. I have some left over from my X8000i project, so I should be covered there. I found out that three of the housing screws were broken off by whoever disassembled it last, so they may prove to be difficult to remove....fingers crossed! |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 7:57:20 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went ahead and disassembled the motor, here are a few pics: <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor1_zps47e92e23.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor1_zps47e92e23.jpg</a> <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor10_zpse82c04fd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor10_zpse82c04fd.jpg</a> <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor9_zps58918c72.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor9_zps58918c72.jpg</a> <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor8_zps1e08939a.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor8_zps1e08939a.jpg</a> <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor7_zpsb5d03549.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor7_zpsb5d03549.jpg</a> <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor6_zpsedc6b867.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor6_zpsedc6b867.jpg</a> <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor5_zps7a228947.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor5_zps7a228947.jpg</a> <a href="http://s16.photobucket.com/user/jason280_3/media/MX4085/Motor4_zpsd6a11807.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b19/jason280_3/MX4085/Motor4_zpsd6a11807.jpg</a> I couldn't find any evidence of any component actually being damaged, so I cleaned all the surfaces and reassembled the motor. It was a PITA to get the brushes back in place over the springs, at least to keep them in place during reassembly, but I finally figured it out. It still spun freely, so I did a quick test with a battery...everything worked OK. Motor fired right up, so it seems to be fine. The main screws were loose, so I can only assume the previous owner disassembled the motor as I did, but didn't get the brushes correctly back in position. Either way, it seems to be working fine now. Quick question. Should there be a coating of any kind of dielectric grease between the main winding of the motor and the case it slides into? Regarding your question, by 'main winding' do you mean the spinny thing with all the wires and the shaft? That part's called the armature, and the only grease on it should be a very light film where it goes into a bearing or a gear (not always on the gear, either) mainly so the parts don't seize together. ETA: that shaft runs in sintered bronze bearings, so no grease. A drop of non-detergent oil (the non-detergent is sometimes pretty important) is all it should have. Otherwise there shouldn't be any grease on it. The windings at the commutator end (the commutator is the disc with the pie slice shaped pieces of copper are visible) look like they did get warm, so it might be toast. The easiest way to tell is to fix up the mechanical bits and the rest of the wiring and try it. Also, you should use some duct tape or other sticky stuff to get the metal shavings off of the magnets in the motor housing. They may not hurt but it's better to not have them floating around. Good luck; that's a decent winch. |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 10:23:33 PM EDT
[#14]
The windings at the commutator end (the commutator is the disc with the pie slice shaped pieces of copper are visible) look like they did get warm, so it might be toast. The easiest way to tell is to fix up the mechanical bits and the rest of the wiring and try it. I reassembled the motor, and it ran fine off a battery. Didn't seem any noisier than my other winch motors, so I may have dodged a bullet. |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 5:25:22 PM EDT
[#15]
Motor looks pretty solid.
ETA: did you try it both ways? Never hurts to check. Did they send you a wiring schematic, too? |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 11:33:59 PM EDT
[#16]
ETA: did you try it both ways? Never hurts to check.
Did they send you a wiring schematic, too? Yeah, I reversed polarity and it worked both ways. Well, it spun when I changed the leads over. Couldn't quite watch the shaft, as I had it bolted to my bench to keep from torquing, but it spun regardless how I attached the (+) and (-) leads. Yes, Warn sent me the schematic for the solenoids. I may not actually need it, as everything is still wired up. I'll take a few pics, though, before I start disassembling and cleaning/testing. |
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Posted: 12/13/2014 2:05:52 PM EDT
[#17]
ETA: When you tested it were you just using a battery or the winch controls? If the latter then disregard the rest of the post.
One thing I've learned from working on "previously used" items is to verify EVERY thing. It can save a lot of grief later.
ETA: Easy way to check is before connecting the motor, check the output of the system in both directions. I would still compare it to the diagram first but then I'm paranoid and need to drink more. 
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Posted: 12/14/2014 3:36:30 PM EDT
[#18]
Well, ran into a snag. Pulled the gears apart, cleaned them, and regressed the assembly. Everything is back together, but the free spool is very tight. I know the clutch is in correctly, but something isn't right. May have to take it back apart to troubleshoot...
I need to check with Warn, but how much grease do you need to apply to the planetary gears? |
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Posted: 12/14/2014 3:56:30 PM EDT
[#19]
On each end of the winch drum is a nylon buhing, if theses are worn, it ill be difficult to free spool...
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