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Posted: 7/26/2002 3:38:51 PM EDT
Need to pull the harmonic balancer on my 93 explorer due to a leaking gasket. got a puller to do it but the thing won't budge. The bolt that hold the puller are starting to stretch,that how much pressure is applying. What's the secret to removing it?? my next optoin is heat?? think it will work?? Any advice is appreciated thanks
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 3:43:02 PM EDT
Did you remove the big bolt in the end of the crankshaft first?
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 3:46:06 PM EDT
Off course.so whats the secret to removing it? please,pretty please I am that desperate. thanks
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 3:50:23 PM EDT
Check Kragens and Pep Boys, I think one of them have manuals(such as Motors & Chilton') that they will lend you plus rent you tools.
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 3:54:24 PM EDT
Unfortunately/fortunately those are the tools I have. I'm pretty good on cArs but this has me stumped[>(][:(]
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 3:55:24 PM EDT
You got mail
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 4:26:10 PM EDT
thanks Don R
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 6:01:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/26/2002 6:08:08 PM EDT by prk]
It's always helpful to check a manual or two, but here are some ideas: 1. Rather than applying heat, penetrating oil or WD40, as long as you don't get any on rubber parts (I think my harmonic dampener has some rubber in the middle of it. 2. Instead of applying heat, bolt everything back up and run the engine a while, then stop the engine and try to remove it while it's still warm. 3. I have been known to use a mallet, but I can't tell if there might be a reason not to in your case, so you'll have to make that decision. I try to soften the blow with a wood block, chunk of 2 X 4, etc. This fit onto the crankshaft is pretty close, so lots of small taps on alternating sides might be required. 4. Not familiar with your engine, but my vehicle has multiple small bolts holding the pulley onto the crankshaft. Do you have these in addition to the big one? 5. If the bolt was only slightly, just a tiny bit loose, could the vibration unfreeze things? Be very careful. Don't try this with the puller attached -- put it all back together. 6. With motor off, puller applying tension, then maybe a bit of tapping would help.
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 6:54:50 PM EDT
No bolts other than the big one. Putting it back togther is out of the question.I pretty much have to move or remove everything from the from part of the engine. This is one of the situation where the part are cheap but the labor kills ya. I would guesstimate the labor if brought to a pro would be 4-500 dollars and parts 20.
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 7:00:59 PM EDT
try this, it work for me with my mopar, load the puller to the max, and use a rubber mallet, tap around, I would also soak it with WD40. I did mine the same way and as I was tapping heard a pop, and removed it easy. Hope this helps, working on cars suck.
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 7:19:11 PM EDT
Fords are sure user hostile!! Harmonic balancers do not take kindly to heat or hammers. Either will destroy it and require replacement. Can't drive back on either, must use installer which is special bolt and thrust bearing. Removal in your case merely requires better bolts such as grade 8. LONG breaker bar (2-3 feet) on big puller bolt is normal!!
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 7:27:08 PM EDT
Since you have the bolt off just run it up to 5 or 6,000 RPM Seriously Try putting as much pressure on it with the puller.Then tap around the shaft with a hard plastic hammer.
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 7:27:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/26/2002 7:31:10 PM EDT by Dragracer_Art]
The balancer is a press-fit onto the crank. The bolt is only there for security, or in some cases it holds the pulley on... Chances are, you need a more rugged balancer puller... A flimsy Pep-boys puller will flex and fight with you... Put a synthetic grease on the threads of the puller to make it easier to crank on... Make sure the bolts going into the balancer are all the same length and screwed in the same distance...This insures it will pull straight, and not crooked... Be sure not to booger up the threads in the crank when pushing against it with the puller... Don't forget... What comes off, MUST go back on... The balancer will be just as much of a pain to re-install... There is a tool called a "Balancer installation tool". Be sure to use one... DO NOT beat on it with a hammer... If you crack the outer inertia ring, it will explode at high RPM's... I've got both of these tools in my toolbox. If you want a pic of what they look like, email me... [email]YULLOSE@webtv.net[/email] PS... I just replaced the timing chain & gears on my '94 454 Suburban 2 weeks ago... I know EXACTLY what you're going through...[:D]
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 7:43:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/26/2002 7:47:21 PM EDT by Dragracer_Art]
Just wanted to mention... As a LAST resort, heat will help free the balancer from the crank... Use EXTREME caution though... Too much, and you'll melt that elastomer insert between the inertia ring and the center hub...THATS BAD! You can use a plumbing propane torch or MAPP gas (hotter) to warm the center hub... Heating the center hub will cause it to expand slightly, depending how hot it gets, maybe .0005 (half of a thousandth)... This should be enough to "pop" it loose... Be sure to have the puller cranked as tight as you can get it when you apply the heat... You will hear a distinctive "CRACK" when it breaks loose... When it breaks loose with heat, you need to WORK FAST. When the hub starts to cool, it will shrink back to size and possibly get stuck again.... Again, be VERY carefull if you decide to get the torch out... You can do more harm than good if you get it too hot... When the balancer rubber starts to smoke, it's "TOO HOT" Good luck !
Link Posted: 7/26/2002 9:10:46 PM EDT
I haven't run into one that was press fit on, but I don't usually work on cars that new. But incase it isn't really pressed on, you may look to see if there is a key on the crank that is almost sheered and see if that is holding it on. Also make sure there isn't a crank position sensor that might get ripped off when you move it.
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