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Posted: 5/26/2002 4:43:08 PM EDT
[#1]
The two things I find work best for my 99 Ford Explorer after nine recalls and Tech Service Bulletins was...
1. Large can of gasoline(apply liberally on and about the offending vehicle) 2. A road flare(throw from a good distance so you'll never be burned by Ford again.) I can't back that up, I pissed and moaned like a sissy and turned it in at the end of the lease. Ford sux Sherm |
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Posted: 5/26/2002 5:35:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Check this site out http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html
This guy is a guru of explorers |
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Posted: 5/26/2002 5:41:47 PM EDT
[#3]
It's a FORD...........THAT's the PROBLEM
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Posted: 5/26/2002 7:21:07 PM EDT
[#4]
I don't know about Explorers, but Dodge and Jeep 4x4s both use unit bearings in the front wheels - the bearings, hub, and rotor are all one assembly and have to be replaced as an assembly (about $300 for a Ram 2500.)
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Posted: 5/26/2002 9:23:20 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted: I don't know about Explorers, but Dodge and Jeep 4x4s both use unit bearings in the front wheels - the bearings, hub, and rotor are all one assembly and have to be replaced as an assembly (about $300 for a Ram 2500.) The hub and rotor are two diff. pieces. I have the rotor off....just not sure how to get the hub off. I guess I will just purchase a Chilton manual. Heck, probably can't even get the parts until Tues. medcop |
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Posted: 5/26/2002 10:04:38 PM EDT
[#6]
If you have the rotor off, you should also have the bearings out. The Explorer is an automatic hub, i.e. no switching the hub on or off manually like the olden days. Now, if the hub is bad, that's a different story. IIRC, it's similiar to a CV joint. Behind the rotor there should be a nut held on with a cotter pin thru it. Yours may be a different type.
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Posted: 5/26/2002 10:19:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted: If you have the rotor off, you should also have the bearings out. The Explorer is an automatic hub, i.e. no switching the hub on or off manually like the olden days. Now, if the hub is bad, that's a different story. IIRC, it's similiar to a CV joint. Behind the rotor there should be a nut held on with a cotter pin thru it. Yours may be a different type. I thought if the rotor was off I should be to the bearings. However, the hub is still on (hub and rotor two diff pieces) and I don't know how to get it off. It has to come off to get to the bearings. The rotor was held on with a large nut (no pin) and it appears that the hub is not held on by anything. I know it is but have not clue what. medcop |
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Posted: 5/26/2002 10:37:38 PM EDT
[#8]
This is exactly why I did not want to work on my POS car. By the time you figure in all of the time and money it takes to diagnose the problem, all of the parts bought that didn't fix the problem, then installing the correct parts, and finally adjusting the new parts- the whole mess could have been repaired faster and cheaper by a mechanic.
Don't get me wrong, I used to do minor repairs on my first car- replaced brake pads, replaced master cylinder, fixed electrical problems -stuff like that. Nowdays they make cars so it is damn difficult to fix if you don't know exactly what you are doing. |
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Posted: 5/26/2002 10:44:31 PM EDT
[#9]
look it up on the web you should be able to find some kind of ref.
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Posted: 5/27/2002 9:07:31 PM EDT
[#10]
Well, three bolt hold the hub on. They are on the back of it. The hub and bearings are one piece.
$175 each (side) for the parts! Now I hate Ford even more! medcop |
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Posted: 5/28/2002 2:14:17 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted: Well, three bolt hold the hub on. They are on the back of it. The hub and bearings are one piece. $175 each (side) for the parts! Now I hate Ford even more! medcop Unit bearings [;)] Dodge and Jeep are held on the same way, only the rotoe is part of the assembly (at least on a Ram 2500.) |
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