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Posted: 5/20/2002 11:57:22 PM EDT
First the thing didn't want to start. Then after driving for 100 yards check engine light comes on and stalls at the stop light. Get it started again and then an awful whining noise comes out of the engine compartment. Engine is giving off knocking/dieseling sound. Drive for 1/8 mile to a parking lot. Something is burning. Get to the lot, pop the hood and smoke is pouring from the A/C compressor. Bearing is seized. Can't drive in fear of breaking serpentine belt. 11 mile tow. $7 a mile. Repair place gives a STARTING estimate of $250. What have I done to deserve this never ending torment?
Link Posted: 5/20/2002 11:59:50 PM EDT
American made huh?
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 12:02:14 AM EDT
Are you sure that whine was coming from under the hood?
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 12:22:30 AM EDT
Geez, even selling your gun collection won't cover that bill.
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 12:58:26 AM EDT
Had a bearing seize on my tentioning pully on my Ford PU. Man what a sound! Daughter is having car troubles too. She can't wait to get an estimate on heater core repair job on a V-12 Jaguar! [shock] I told her not to get that dang car so I'm hiding when the news comes in!![stick]
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:13:23 AM EDT
On a V12 Jag...I feel for you brother...I really do.
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:31:48 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Imbroglio: What have I done to deserve this never ending torment?
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Is this a trick question?? [:D]
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:36:18 AM EDT
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:45:32 AM EDT
Make them tell you whether your current refrigerant is tree-hugger compliant or not. Grimshaw would be a good person to ask about this. How old is the truck? If you have the old kind of refrigerant, you may have to replace some equipment to allow you to use the new stuff. Here's an idea. Can you live without the A/C until later? If so, ask them if they can put a smaller belt on it that will not go over the A/C pulley.
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:47:11 AM EDT
man, that IS a piece of ****! maybe you should just make a target out of her!
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 2:28:22 AM EDT
i dont know what it is seems like every one i know has car trouble resently. my damn brakes seem to be going bad and my trunk rattles damn it i hate this !
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 6:42:01 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Imbroglio: What have I done to deserve this never ending torment?
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Well some of it is a matter of perspective. Those of us without fancy luxury items like AC in our trucks never have this particular problem.
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 8:16:06 AM EDT
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 8:24:53 AM EDT
That really sucks man!
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 8:27:47 AM EDT
Like PRK said. Or build an idler pulley to take the place of your dead AC compressor.
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 9:52:08 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Waldo: I figured it out! Imbroglio is really Adam Sandler!!! [url]http://www.sing365.com/music/lyric.nsf/SongUnid/4549BA580375A9AF4825699600180887[/url] [url]http://www.adamsandler.com/[/url]
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[SHOCK]BWAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 10:04:37 AM EDT
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 10:16:29 AM EDT
Daughter is having car troubles too. She can't wait to get an estimate on heater core repair job on a V-12 Jaguar!
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deadeye47, you should check into the prices before getting too bent out of shape. Many of the parts on the older Jags are very reasonable. My nephew recently replaced the transmission, air conditioner compressor, water pump, alternator, and a few other things on his 1988(?) Jag. He spent less total than he did for a repair on his wife's four year-old Buick's front-wheel drive transmission. The reason some of the parts are so cheap is because they are standard Chevy parts. You never know, the heater core could be a GM part, and you can get any shade-tree mechanic to fix it.z
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 10:59:47 AM EDT
very true on that last post...i worked for a company that made all the electronic gas pedals for ford, dodge, gm, jag, and a few others companies...i never knew till i worked there that they all used the same subcontractors for many of their parts. oh and the adam sanlder song...here is the mp3 if you want it, it will be up for only a day or two...funny funny song http://000buck.d2g.com/mp3s/Comedy%20%2D%20Adam%20Sandler%20%2D%20Piece%2­0of%20Shit%20Car.mp3
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 12:03:39 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Imbroglio: 11 mile tow. $7 a mile. Repair place gives a STARTING estimate of $250. What have I done to deserve this never ending torment?
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Two words - Auto Club. [:P]
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 12:12:36 PM EDT
AAA costs around 35 bucks a year. The cost of one tow pays for the membership! Lock your keys in the car, and they will reimburse you for a locksmith, etc. The plus membership costs around eighty bucks/year. The plan includes the cost of a tow 100 miles to whatever destination you choose. You just hand the tow truck driver your card and thats it! AAA has saved my ass a few times!
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 12:58:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/21/2002 12:59:16 PM EDT by brouhaha]
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:29:59 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:38:01 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 1:54:50 PM EDT
Did you try unplugging the clutch for the A/C compressor? That would let you continue to operate the truck with a bum compressor.
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 2:03:02 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 4:02:30 PM EDT
Couldn't you but a compressor from the junk yard for a few dollars just so you can adjust the belt properly?
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 4:15:53 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Wolfpack:
Originally Posted By Sweep: Let me guess, FORD? Found On Roadside Dead?
F-First O-On R-Race D-Day
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[b]F[/b]ucker [b]O[/b]nly [b]R[/b]uns [b]D[/b]ownhill
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 6:20:15 PM EDT
Just a few days ago, I saw a Chevy truck with a tow hitch cover that read: "Remove To Tow Ford Truck" Jay [img]http://www.commspeed.net/jmurray/images/iroc-cop.gif[/img]
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 9:20:07 PM EDT
lmbroglio, I certainly hope your problem was a simple as my daughters.....overheat problem....2 new thermostats fixed it! YIPEEE Now the tranny will most likely take a sh!t! Thanks for the info..zoom and freeride. Also I have had good luck with my 93 FORD F150 302V8. Idler pully, fuel pump at 5000 miles(warranty) elect.window gear,put dual exhaust on it at 103K(muffler got a hole in it).Thats been it!!! 108,000mi. Change oil every 3K. Adjusted trans bands @ 75K. Pulla travel trailer with it! It's perfect. No whinning from me.
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 9:35:46 PM EDT
Within the last 3 years, I already had to replace the thermostat, an O2 sensor, and a busted power window motor. The repair place coudn't get the POS to start today and to fix that is going to cost me another $75! All of this right after the warranty expired!
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 10:04:46 PM EDT
F ***** O ld R oad D og F or O nly R etarded D umbasses Friends don't let friends drive Fords (or econoboxes, or offshore trash!)!
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 10:40:50 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Imbroglio: Within the last 3 years, I already had to replace the thermostat, an O2 sensor, and a busted power window motor. The repair place coudn't get the POS to start today and to fix that is going to cost me another $75! All of this right after the warranty expired!
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I'm scared now...I've been too lucky. Mine will probably go boom when I start it in the morning! How old is it? Buy it new? Sounds like you inherited someone elses woes. Man thats cold Micky![:D]
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 11:11:20 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Am-O-Tramp: Couldn't you but a compressor from the junk yard for a few dollars just so you can adjust the belt properly?
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Damnit Jim! I'm a pseudo gunsmith, not a car mechanic!
Link Posted: 5/21/2002 11:16:20 PM EDT
Originally Posted By deadeye47: I'm scared now...I've been too lucky. Mine will probably go boom when I start it in the morning! How old is it? Buy it new? Sounds like you inherited someone elses woes. Man thats cold Micky![:D]
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Since I HAD a job and income back then, I bought the thing new. Never had a problem with the thing UNTIL it was paid off. Alignment keeps going out too. The woes I have inherited is being punished for the sins of all mankind.
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 6:40:27 AM EDT
i thought you drove a dodge dart.
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 9:12:18 AM EDT
Originally Posted By eurotrash: i thought you drove a dodge dart.
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Now that's funny! Hey, doesn't Misterhemi drive a Dart? F-F****d O-Over R-Rod D-Dropper
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 10:33:37 AM EDT
SHIIIIITTTTT!!!! Now the repair place told me that the reason the thing wouldn't start is that 2 relays went out and a 3rd one that controls timing is now going out of spec. To replace them and JUST get the car started again is going to cost $400!! They haven't even began to see WTF is wrong with the a/c compressor yet or the other problems! I told the guy I am damn poor so he said to just get the car fixed so it will run and get the check engine light problem fixed later. Do the car manufacturers purposefully engineer the parts to fail after the warranty goes out or something?
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 11:21:11 AM EDT
Geez, guy - you're cryin' over a bad A/C clutch? I thought people who owned ARs were more manly than that. [:P] Seriously, you have to learn to work on your own cars. Otherwise you're at the mercy of some dim-witted mechanic who barely made it through high school auto shop and is not nearly as smart as you. My father took his truck into the dealership to have it checked out because it was running rough. They replaced the EGR valve (2 bolts and 1 wire) and the bill was $575 - $350 or which was labor. He got reamed! When the water pump in my truck blew, I bought a new (not rebuilt - new!!) one at AutoZone for $26.95. And it comes with a lifetime warranty!! It took me a couple of hours in my driveway to replace it. I don't know how many hundreds of $ a garage would have charged me. Or last year when a rear brake cylinder blew, spewing brake fluid all over the place. A cylinder rebuild kit was $3.50 at Pep Boys, and I spent an hour or so honing the cylinder and replacing the piston cups. The brake shop probably would've gotten $400 to fix that one. This summer I'm going to rebuild my automatic tranmission. I've never done it before, but you can buy a complete kit for $100 from J.C. Whitney and it comes with detailed instructions. And how hard could it be? The grease monkeys I see doing it know aren't nearly smart enough to build a computer like I did here. It isn't rocket science - you only have to be able to read and follow simple instructions. So that's your choice - learn how to do it yourself, or bend over and let some Jiffy-Lube reject take all your money for turning a few wrenches.
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 12:27:30 PM EDT
just remember with J.C. Whitney you get what you pay for you can disconnect the electrics from the compressor and it will just spin unless it's totally siezed up (did that with my mustang for several years)
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 3:48:41 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Steel_Rat: This summer I'm going to rebuild my automatic tranmission. I've never done it before, but you can buy a complete kit for $100 from J.C. Whitney and it comes with detailed instructions. And how hard could it be? The grease monkeys I see doing it know aren't nearly smart enough to build a computer like I did here. It isn't rocket science - you only have to be able to read and follow simple instructions.
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$100 for the kit, and you could be looking at $1000 or so in special tools you need to do the job right - Snap-on, Kent Moore, Mac, and other high-end brands are about the only ones who make these tools. Plus, you'll need a parts washer with clean - and I mean [b]clean[/b] - solvent in it. Also, a lot of the parts that may need to be replaced don't [b]look[/b] bad to the untrained eye, and there are other parts that it's just good sense to replace regardless of their condition. Unless you're talking soldering every little chip, diode, capacitor, etc, to the motherboard, I'd say building a computer is nothing compared to rebuilding an automatic.
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 4:21:13 PM EDT
Well they guy basically said the whole compressor is thrashed and the rod threw metal particles into the accumulator, which has to also be replaced now. I am so screwed now, I will never be out of credit card debt.
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 4:49:25 PM EDT
F-Found O-On R-Road D-Dead I have a 1988 F250 4X4 with extended cab and 8' bed. Bought foe $1,200 thought it had a Rear main leak and a bad Right front U joint. Turns out the oil pan gasket was leaking by the starter. Said great lucked out. Then it also turns out the Ring & Pinion in the front was destroyed. Fixed it then the valve cover gasket was leaking Right side. What a job that was, Changed the lower Manifold gasket also. # yrs no problems except a starter KNOCK ON WOOD. Then there is the wife's 1988 Jeep Cherokee which is another story. Just last week thought it was a rear main. Had to bring it to someone since I can't do it because of back operation. The guy never really checks what I told him, fixes it and calls me up. Tells me it's still leaking.Turns out it was the valve cover gasket. $500.00 later I am kicking myself for telling him I was sure it was the rear main. Win some lose some. I only paid $800.00 for it 3 yrs ago also.
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 5:14:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/22/2002 5:19:04 PM EDT by NH2112]
Forget the AC, just get the belt for the non-AC version and run it. If the check engine light comes on and stays on, it's just an emissions control problem and at most will make the truck run rough. Crawl underneath and look to see if the O2 sensor is disconnected, then check all your vacuum lines for cracks, dry-rot, etc. If the light flashes it's sending a trouble code that "should" pinpoint where the problem is. I'd ask the mechanic to tell you EXACTLY what's wrong with it that will cost $400 to repair, then post it here. Someone on here will be able to tell you how to do it yourself, and probably can even walk you through it over the phone. My advice? Learn how to do stuff yourself, like Steel_Rat said. However, I wouldn't bother with learning how to do stuff like rebuild an automatic, rebuild the bottom end, etc, unless you plan on doing it several times or more. Instead, learn how to do the routine maintenance things where you pay a little for parts and a lot more for labor such as brakes, wheel bearings, shocks, seals, starter, alternator, water pump, etc. You can do all of these with $200 or so worth of Craftsman tools - for that price you'll get screwdrivers, ratchets and metric & standard sockets (6-point, 12-point, Torx, hex) in 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" drive drive, box/open end wrenches up to 24mm and 1" or so. Get a pair of snapring pliers too, and a 1/2" drive breaker bar and any >1" sockets you'll need for big jobs. If you're real ambitious you can spend $100 or so at NAPA and get an OTC ball joint/U-joint press and cut your costs there from $500 or so down to $100 for parts. Pick up a Chilton or Haynes manual for $20, and I guarantee you'll recover the cost of the tools in the first 2 or 3 repairs you do yourself.
Link Posted: 5/22/2002 5:16:02 PM EDT
Originally Posted By brouhaha: Imbrog, If you were a REAL man, you would have taken a tow strap, slung it over your shoulder, and towed the truck yourself. You sissy-man! [img]www.ar15.com/members/albums/brouhaha%2Fgay1%2Egif[/img] Or you could cut a hole in the floor and Fred Flintstone the S.O.B. You should have bought a pre-A/C politically incorrect pickup. Then you wouldn't have this problem. [;)]
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Link Posted: 5/23/2002 11:28:17 PM EDT
Updated estimate is now up to $1400! At least the guy said he would get me a free rental car if it ain't all fixed by friday. What kind of guns could I have bought for $1400? I gots to know so I have something else to be depressed about.
Link Posted: 5/23/2002 11:40:18 PM EDT
... I hate the double edged sword of an older vehicle thats paid for but can suck you dry at the shop. Versus the new car that always runs and sucks you each month.
Link Posted: 5/23/2002 11:44:12 PM EDT
[url]F[/url]ixed [url]O[/url]r [url]R[/url]epaired [url]D[/url]aily
Link Posted: 5/23/2002 11:50:21 PM EDT
F**ked Over Rebuilt Dodge Fast Only Rolling Downhill Found On Roadside Dead Fix Or Repair Daily (Sorry guys, had to add 'em!) Panz [bounce]
Link Posted: 5/23/2002 11:56:26 PM EDT
At least my 205,000 mile POS pick up still costs less than car payments. That $1400 repair bill is getting insane. For lesss than that you could put an air conditioner in the back window, and buy a generator to put in the bed to run it. I'd look into getting a serpentine belt for a non-AC truck and bypass the compressor, as prk suggested.
Link Posted: 5/24/2002 12:28:06 AM EDT
Do you get the feeling you're being taken for a ride? You went in with what seemed like a straighforward problem - a frozen compressor. Now they keep finding one thing after another. Relays Accumulator "...and the rod threw metal particles into the accumulator, which has to also be replaced now..." What rod? Did they show you? Tell them you want all the old parts. I really think you need a second opinion. And then there is the BAR in your beloved Sacramento.
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