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Posted: 4/21/2002 3:04:39 PM EDT
Man, we need a puter forum on this site. :) I need to run about 100' of cat5 under the house for a home network. The distance is probably less than 50 feet, but I want plenty of slack in both the source and destination rooms. Anywho, what's the deal with 5e? Is it shielded or just more fault tolerant than standard cat5? Please forgive me, I'm a software engineer, not a network engineer. :)
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 3:35:28 PM EDT
Don't worry about the 5e, go ahead and run the CAT5. CAT5 can support 100Mb up to 100 meters, so distance in your situation will not be a factor. Try to avoid AC power lines, but if you must get within 2-3 feet of one do not run parallel to it, and be sure to cross it at a 90 degree angle to reduce the effect of EMI. The stuff is almost sailor proof / Marine resistant. Make sure you crimp the connectors on correctly and you should have little to worry about. D the (MCSE,CCNA,CCDA,CCNP,NNCSS, butwhogivesacrapaboutallthosefunnylettersanyw­ay) Peacher
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 3:45:18 PM EDT
Assuming you are going with a 10/100baseT.. (?) From what I know at work, 5e is higher performance (lower losses(attenuation) than 5. For the distances you are running, the CAT5 should serve your purpose just fine (the 5e will be a little bit more expensive (?..I don't buy it, company does), it meets a higher standard than 5) [b]If[/b] the cost is negligable, go with the better, 5e. Another note, If you are going to be using or upgrading to[u]1000[/u]baseT, go 5e.
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 4:12:18 PM EDT
Go with 5E, it will allow you to upgrage to gigabit ethernet when the time comes. I am running cat 5E in my new house for data and phone. Av. (CNA, CNE, MCSE, A+, Network+, MCSA, CCNA)
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 4:28:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/21/2002 4:40:18 PM EDT by mattja]
I should add we are leasing this house, so there's no telling how long we'll be here. All I'm doing is trying to give my wife access to the cable modem in my home office and the ability to share files. We're running a 100baseT network using a LinkSys 8-port cable router. The cable portion, of course, runs at 10baseT. I was considering wireless, but I don't know how robust it is so I thought I might as well just run a cable under the house and save a few hundred bucks. I'm kind of leaning towards that Belkin FastCAT 5e cabling, which is $88.99 retail for 100'. Is that too much to pay? [url]catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=28&pcount=&Product_Id=67328&Section.Section_Path=%2FCables%2FNetworking%2F[/url] It's molded, which should not be a problem as the television cable outlets are located exactly where I want the CAT5, so all I probably have to do is increase the size of the holes that are already in the floor. Or is it better to attach the RJ45s myself? I can get hold of the tools. What'd ya'll think? BTW, what's CAT6 cable? CDW sells both CAT5 and CAT6.
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 4:43:29 PM EDT
To directly answer the question, Cat5 is certified to 100 megahertz (not megabit) Cat5E is certified to 350 megahertz. Cat6 is also currently available from several makers including Belden, and can push about 600 megahertz, and Cat7 is out there too. Bitrates (as in Ethernet 10/100/1000) are independent of the wire, and are a factor of timing and line coding etc. Standard Cat5 can carry gig depending on the equipment used-(4 pair). This could get VERY technical, but to be as straight orward as possible good old Cat5 will do nicely for most home networking applications. [8D]
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 4:46:39 PM EDT
Grock, are you saying they use some form of multiplexing to get more bandwidth out of CAT5? Or perhaps some new form of lossless compression?
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 5:05:23 PM EDT
Currently available systems allow gig E from cat5 utilizing all 4 pair of a Cat5 cable. Yep- it is a simple type of multiplexing. Typically however, most systems use SM/MM fiber for gig interfaces. The Home network/hardware really has no need for that level of performance however. Most PCs- even the really fast ones- can't even take advantage of a 100mb connection...I have some VERY serious Servers that can push a 100mb link up to about 30-50%. I also have many sites, 300-500 PCs (and supporting file/print servers) that can barely push a 100mb link to 15% in a business day. When I show top talker on one of my Cats the only devices I see really utilizing bandwidth are printers! heh,heh... Where I have Gig backbones supportings a dozen or more Cat 6509s (1000-2000 user sites) a typical traffic level on the backbone averages around 12%. Where I am doing layer 3 switching its 2-5% tops. [8D]
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 5:07:39 PM EDT
Originally Posted By mattja: ....It's molded, which should not be a problem as the television cable outlets are located exactly where I want the CAT5, so all I probably have to do is increase the size of the holes that are already in the floor. Or is it better to attach the RJ45s myself? I can get hold of the tools. What'd ya'll think?....
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Go with the prefab cable. No sense causing yourself more work.
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 5:17:25 PM EDT
If you go with Cat 5E, go with prefab. It will be a lot easier and less time consuming. Av.
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 5:20:17 PM EDT
Let me jump in the fray, I'm a Telecomm. Technician/Network Wiring guy with our local school board. The only real difference between Cat5 and Cat5e is the testing protocol that is required to certify the install. Cat 5 only has to pass a few tests (attenuation, Near-end cross-talk, length, wiremap) to make the grade. Cat5e has to pass those and a few others, such as: ELFEXT (Equal-level far end cross-talk), Powersum, ACR (Attenuation/crosstalk ratio, etc.) Now, with all that said, we use Wirescope 350 wiretesters at work that certify up to Cat6, and I've never had a Cat5 cable fail to pass the Cat5e standard. The cable is basically the same, just tested and approved at 350mhz, compared to 100mhz of original Cat5 standard. I'd say if you can get 5e cheap, do so .... otherwise the Cat5 is fine, just don't kink it, pull it with more than 25lbs of tension, run parallel to power, and definately stay away from florescent lights, they are the worst. Just my .02, if you have any other questions just ask (email or otherwise). I am BICSI certified Level 2 installer. Steven L.
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