I got this, quite a while ago...now I'm looking for the best engine (want 4 stroke), servo's radio etc...Any advice appreciated.

Oh, and I didn't realize how big the fucker was when I ordered...gonna have to buy a beater truck to carry it around.

http://www.nitroplanes.com/susacmpmop40.html

Paging Brass

Who?

IF this is your first RC aircraft, PLEASE get a trainer to learn to fly first! If not, disregard...

You cant go wrong with a Saito or a YS

Sterling advice.

I've had a trainer, and got pretty good with it.  I may pick up another cheap electric one, just to practice with before taking this one out.

So which specific engine/servo/radio etc...do you guys recommend?  My trainer was a ready to fly nitro, so it had everything I needed.  This one, I'm gonna have to buy all the parts seperately...so I'm lost.

I have an FW-190 balsa kit sitting in a closet, have had it for 10 years, doubt I will ever fly it and can't figure for the life of me why I still have it. lol.

My trainer went through more than 3 PCS's before I finally gave it to the neighbor kid here.  I know how you feel.

I figured with a big one, it would be more fun to fly...and it'll give me a winter project.

This.   A high wing trainer to start.

The new Futaba 2.4Ghz Radio set comes with receiver and 4 servos for around $300-$350, this saves you the headache/nighmare of somebody firing up a radio on your channel when using the 75Mhz band, though the 75Mhz/"Channeled Radios" can be found for cheap some places though.  

If you plan on expanding, going to combat aircraft or rectractable gear and flaps, get the 8 Channel radio off the bat.  If you are only going to go in circles and minor aerobatics without twin-tail mixing, a 4 channel radio is all you need.

I'd suggest at least 50 hours using "Real Flight", which comes with a USB Controller that functions/feels exactly like the Real RC Controller does.   They are MUCH harder to fly than it looks, especially when you get into helicopters or low altitude work.

Go to your local R/C Field and ask somebody to Trim your plane and be a backup "Trainer" for your first few flights as well, that works by slaving the radios, and if you lose aspect/control, the experienced guy can take control back, get it close, and return control to you.  Before RealFlight, that was the only way to learn.  Now, you would probably be alright going straight from realfight to a Trainer, but NOT to an aerobatic craft, such as the one in your OP.

RealFlight is around $200, and is EASILY worth it, since you will crash double that much in planes without it.  

Finally, even when you are good with realflight, some things pop up that only experience (in crashing planes) teaches, hate to say it, but it'll happen.

If it isn't an RTF (Ready To Fly) craft, keep an eye on the weight, and make sure the CG is on the wing spar.     For an engine, I'd suggest an OS 40 or 60 "slimer", or you could go electric, the outrunner brushless motors are actually quite powerful now, compared to what was around 6 years ago.  

Learning to use fiberglass and epoxy is important, though most of the plane will be built with cynaoacrylate (super glue).  Crashes need parts fixed, and I've only entirely destroyed a handful of planes, a few are beat up, and the combat craft are foam wings vacuum bagged with fiberglass, they hold up the best of anything.

Already flown the trainers, but it's been a while...so I need to brush up.  I do plan on retractable gear for this plane.  So what's the best (at a reasonable price point) engine, servo's and radio?  I think I'll order the RealFlight now, before the other parts...just to be safe.

Brass.



 

JR for radio and servos.  





Now I know you are dead set on a 4 stroke engine but when you look at the economics of electric, the fuel is free.  Yes, even the largest airplane can be electric powered.  With modern lithium polymer batteries, weight isn't an issue.  





Let me research what would be best for your plane...

AXI Gold 5325/18 Outrunner Motor  $260

19x12 prop $10



90 amp controller $260



8 cell lipo pack $260



Charger $50



What do you get?  NO STARTING!  Just slap the battery in and FLY!  As a bonus, much lower vibration!



No starter motor, glow plug ignitor, fuel, slime, or noise.





 

He damn sure seems to know his shit!

For the Radio, the Spektrum or Futaba FASST systems seem like a good way to go, IMO. The Spektrum DX6i has had good reviews and is frequently used by lower budget pilots.

For the engine, Saito or YS are good, as previously mentioned. I only state this from what I've heard, as I've never had a 4-stroke.

Servos, I like Hi-Tec stuff, Futaba, or GWS.

Keep in mind, I haven't flown a glow plane in a LONG time, and have very limited experience with them. I decided to go with electrics (mainly parkflyers at that) as they're cheaper, easier, and I don't have to drive very far to make good use of them. YMMV.

Just make sure to fly two dumb thumbs high at the start, LOL!

I am a big fan of Hi-Tec servos in RC cars and trucks, and I beat the shit out of em.
 

NitroPlanes.com is the CheaperthanDirt.com of RC online retail.

He'd have $300 in batteries to fly that on LiPo's.



 

Is that an endorsement?

I sense an epic fail coming.

I bought the plane from them, but that was a while back.  I'm now looking for parts for it, not necessarily from them.

Not knocking your model.  The electronics are the critical components. That's one large model.  Don't do like the pilot in the video and take off too slowly.  I thought he was gonna lose it for sure, when it leaned to the side and dropped.



 

I have a Spectrum DX7 (Heli version)

I'm pretty impressed with the new 2.4 GHz radios

It's huge...I know.  But that's why I'm asking which gear to get for it, instead of blindly buying what they offer.

While I an appreciate the simple plug and play of electric...I like my toys loud and obnoxious.  Thanks for looking up the info though!

Oh, and which version of RealFlight am I looking for?

I'll ad that I've owned Futaba and JR radio equipment and I prefer the JR gear.

I think I may have to agree with the going with an electric motor
I've done Gas, but switching over to electric meant no more mess.

Plus no starter, or fuel pump, or cleanup

Oh, the Jeti Phasor on my hotliner is PLENTY LOUD.  Swings an 11x6 prop at 8000 RPM.  500 feet per minute climb, not bad for a 2 meter class.   Get it speck high, then cut the engine and go on a dive bomb.  It does over 120 MPH.  I had issues with spoiler deployment roll so I installed a roll gyro, switchable on 5th channel.  Well, that roll gyro turned out to be awesome in normal flight too.  Coordinates turns, makes coring a thermal a snap.
 

I know...but this thing is HUGE!!!  I can't imagine it could fly long on an electric engine...

Helis are better...when you crash a Heli, over 30 parts start flying all over the place.



It makes for a good show.

How long can it fly, and what's it weigh?  I might think about it.

I know, I've got them too.

That's a big plane!  I never got past the .40 stage, then gave it up.



I'm itching to get back into it, but would never tackle anything that big first.



I've still got the controllers, and a couple of sweet .40 kits waiting for me to get off my ass.  Too bad golf and shooting are taking up my weekends.

An Expensive Show

usually about $100 average per crash (some less some more)

My trainer was a .40.  But I saw this a while ago, and just had to have it.  I figured I'd be able to see it better, and maybe use it more.

I've got an old JR radio, but I think for this...I should upgrade to a newer/better one.

Where is the best place to shop for parts?

Tower Hobbies is the only place that I know of.



 

I get nice catalogs from these guys:



http://www.horizonhobby.com/



But I'm pretty much a Tower Hobbies guy. They have aircraft stuff too, but a kinda shitty website.



 

If you switch over to DSM2, you can get a Spektrum DX6i on ebay for around $100.



Horizon Hobby has huge selection of parts and cheap shipping, and the lowest retail rates of anyone.

DSM2?

I'm new to this, well...it's been a while since I've flown.

Well, it does thermal quite well and the prop folds so on a good day, I get 20-30 minute flights.  Always dead stick landing, props are expensive and every landing is a belly landing.  It is a mild hotliner sailplane.  Weight is 60 ounces with 8 cell NiMH packs, either Sanyo FAUPs or sub Cs.  I could go with lithiums now that I am running a gear box on the motor, same prop, same RPM but 40 amp draw instead of 65.  Full power, it is about 3 minutes of motor but that will put it 1500 feet AGL and only on a good day could I see that.  Static thrust is about 70 ounces but I won't 3d it.  I have a fat 3d plane that is nearly indestructible for that .  



Here is a similar type







There is still a LOT of juice left in those batteries.  But he did a good show of the extreme power.



 

Digital spread spectrum.  Instead of ppm, channels etc, you fly with digital.  No interference, just a simple setup at the field to search for noise.  Like the difference between old analog AMPS cell phone and digital.  When cell phones went to digital, there were much more possible subscribers, gone are the channels.



It makes the old frequency/channel board obsolete at flying fields.



 

My plane alone weighs over 10lbs...That's why I was worried about electric.

+87


Really.

Oh, Futaba.  

Actually, the bigger the plane, the easier it is to fly.  

Seriously.

Nearly anything can be electrified.  The setup I suggested has a maximum draw of 90 amperes at 8 Li cells, that is 2520 Watts...about 3.25 Horsepower.  That is FAR MORE than any 1.4 cubic inch 4 stroke. About 3 minute duration at full throttle, that you will only need on take-off.  



With the big boys, you need an add-on battery eliminator circuit.  Smaller ESCs have a voltage regulator to run the radios...BEC.  But packs over 12 volts need a BEC with heat sink, most shops carry these.  You have far more power left in the pack when the auto-cut off happens so you can still fly the plane.  And if you back the throttle off and wait a second, you can get another burst of power, usually less than half power but enough to get you back.
 

Thanks, if it will fly as fast and as long as a nitro...I don't mind spending a bit more on it!

sim
Trainer
sim
Jr
Trainer
sim
JR
sim

/thread  


Seriously, buy a good sim and a good radio.  I like the Spektrum/Jr stuff, but Futaba will pass on a bad day.  Learn to fly that, then report back.

Try Hobby King. Yes they are in China, but their prices are hard to beat. Their lipo batteries are dirt cheap and are excellent quality. Most of the motors are cheap enough who cares if they only last a year of flying. By then new advancements will be out and you can upgrade.

Well, running the simulator on that airframe shows it needs a bit less motor.  

AXI Gold 4130/16 Outrunner Motor

77 amp controller, about 50 amp draw at flight speed and wide open.  6 cell lithum, 21 volts.  About 1.4 Hp.  19x10 prop.



The motor is 16 ounces LIGHTER than the 1.40 gas, you would also save 8 ounces of fuel and tank.  So with a 6 cell 4500 mA-hour lithium pack weight is about the same.



The 4130/16 motor is $170, battery $200 and controller another $180.  YIKES, the controllers ARE expensive but that is your throttle control.  High current MOSFETS aren't cheap.



Wiring also has to be industrial.  With brushless motors, you want the wires as short as possible.  And FAT.  77 amps still needs 8-10 gauge with 8" leads.  Bigger is always better.



The other really bad thing about electric is the motor starts TOO easily.  Never have the battery installed without having transmitter on AND the throttle PULLED.  I had an old fart nearly chop my face up when he did that.  Turned the plane's power switch on and the throttle was FULL.  Pointed right at me, I hit the deck and it crashed into the fence about at my face level.  Swinging a 12" prop too .



That Axi motor WILL remove fingers. Or arms. It is damn near a small lawn mower.