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Posted: 4/9/2002 5:49:17 PM EDT
My main concern is mileage, then power. Basically, nothing has been replaced on this truck (1993 Suburban- 4X4, 5.7L V-8) for 50,000 miles, so she is long overdue. The truck has 150,000 miles on it, 100,000 of which are solid highway miles. I have thrown on a K&N open-element filter, and I'm thinking about getting new plugs, wires, and perhaps an MSD ignition and some new shocks & struts. A lift will occur sometime as well, probably after the truck is retired from being a daily driver. Also, some exhaust work may be in the cards, as well as some new tires, a paint job, as well as some other work. I love the new 'cool blue' low beams, and plan to also get 'cool blue' high beams (they are much brighter and more modern looking). Other minor issues have come up, such as the typical GM fluid leaks- power steering fluid leak was fixed, and I'm still working on curing the oil leak(s). Chevy makes a fine product, albeit a leaky one. Can you motorheads out there please suggest some economical upgrades for me. AND DON'T TELL ME TO GO BUY A FORD/DODGE/TOYOTA/OTHER CRAP!!!
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 5:57:04 PM EDT
Good man, stick with the Chevy. Good start witht he K&N filter. I would go with exhaust next. You can got with some headers which arent hard to do yourself except for the bolts being pretty fused on the collector. I had ot cut them off on the truck I re-worked. Put the headers on and less restrictive catalytic convertor and then go with a new muffler. Depends on how much noise you want. I put a magna-flow on mine and it was just enough sound. I have had the flowmasters and they get too loud in the cab. Another thing you can do if you havent done it yet is to remove the air flow restricto in the tube that comes fromt he inside fender well to the air cleaner. its a hour-glass peice of plastic that is used ot quiet the air moving through the tube. Take some pliers out and yank it out, it allows more air in and thus giving more power Just my opinion on what to do though
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:01:07 PM EDT
I forgot about headers... for the money, that's probably the cheapest thing to do. I just don't want lots of noise and exhaust leaks. Any brand you would suggest?
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:01:43 PM EDT
Hi I'm Dave... I'm a bowtie-aholic. I've got a '72 K-5 Blazer, a '82 6.2 ltr Suburban and a '83 C20 Pickup. I'm thinking about checking out the Jacobs electronics ignition systems [url]http://www.jacobselectronics.com[/url] for my fleet. BTW, my wife's out of town; anyone got a line on a nice '66 4x4 Suburban [:D]! Semper Fi Dave
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:31:25 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dissipator556: Basically, nothing has been replaced on this truck (1993 Suburban- 4X4, 5.7L V-8) for 50,000 miles, and I'm thinking about getting new plugs, wires
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you mean to say that you haven't changed your plugs/wires in 50K miles???????? i'd start there if i were you. otherwise, i agree with the others.
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:33:21 PM EDT
FORD
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:36:23 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:39:56 PM EDT
The K&N is a good place to start. Replace the thermostat with a 160 degree F unit. It will take longer to warm-up but in FL who cares? The 160 will let your engine live MUCH longer. Next would be a chip that takes advantage ofr the cooler thermostat. Keep your old chip in a static-free baggie in the glove box. Instead of a bunch of suspension modifications just replace the shock absorbers with KYB Gas-Adjust shocks. The KYB's will raise the vehicle 1 1/2 inches, last forever (mine are at 100K miles) and have a lifetime warranty. Remember to get the front end aligned after you add the shocks. After those easy mods it starts to get expensive. Those are the only things I've done to my '92 K1500 and it works fine for me on the ranch or downtown Dallas.
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:45:35 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Arock: Next would be a chip that takes advantage ofr the cooler thermostat. Keep your old chip in a static-free baggie in the glove box.
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Why keep the old chip in the glove box, Arock? Would he need to pop it in for an emissions check?
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:51:54 PM EDT
First, go to mexico and purchase something called a Ramcharger. Remove the engine from said Ramcharger, then swap with the Suburbans. Upon completion of this proceedure, continue by removing the body panels from the Suburban and substitute with those from the Ramcharger. [;D]
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 6:58:36 PM EDT
Well, I would start with a good tune-up. Yes replace the plugs( stock CR43TS or go with ACDELCO platinum tip), plug wires(dont buy the cheap ones, again use ACDELCO), new cap and rotor and inspect the reluctor ring on the disributor shaft for cracks or looseness( these are a problem and I would do it with 150K). Is your fuel filter plugged? Yes, this can cause poor fuel economy, as well as a loss of power. Check the timing, usually with this kind of mileage on the odo, it will have retarded a few degrees. Stock setting is 0 degrees, but I always set them at +2 degrees and be sure to unhook the "set timing connector" located under the plastic cover by the AC accumulator on the bulkhead (firewall, but that is a naughty word in GM circles nad you did not see me type it). After the timing is adjusted, you will have a "service engine soon" light on. Disconnect the battery for a minute to clear the code out of the ECM. This should get it back to its normal economy and power provided the motor still has good compression, which would be good to check with the tune-up. You may get a cold hesitation with an air cleaner such as the one you described if it does not use the hot air tube from the exhaust manifold. Yeah ,headers are cool, but a royal pain to work around and keep sealed and they are murder on plug wires, but if this is cruisin fun truck that probably is not a bother to you. Headers are better now than they used to be.Be sure to retighten the bolts after the first warmup. Dont know if this is of any use to you, but I do this for a living, so I thought I would pass along some knowledge. Lee
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 7:08:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/9/2002 7:11:07 PM EDT by Arock]
Originally Posted By Jarhead_22:
Originally Posted By Arock: Next would be a chip that takes advantage ofr the cooler thermostat. Keep your old chip in a static-free baggie in the glove box.
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Why keep the old chip in the glove box, Arock? Would he need to pop it in for an emissions check?
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Precisely. And as a standby if the new chip gives you trouble. I run an ADS chip and it's never given me any problems. **Edited to add if a part gives you trouble replace it with ACDelco.
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 7:18:24 PM EDT
-a drip tray under the engine (just light gauge sheet metal bolted in place) to keep your parking spot clean. :) -Engine oil, rad, and power steering stop-leak. Don't use 'em unless you do have leakage in those systems - but they seem to work more often than not, for a total price of ten bucks. -anti-rust treatment - virtually any kind of oil, or mix it with cosmoline if you want - especially the lower inside of the cab area and doors, also the fenders. Adding mud flaps or running boards will also help to stop rust. -non-rusting alloy wheels (if you don't already have 'em) or repaint existing steel wheels if you prefer. -change transmission oil. Many don't, but it gets expensive.
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 7:28:45 PM EDT
Only an egopig would drive a Suburban daily. Improve your outlook on the rest of humanity by driving something smaller than 2 liters. Terrorists get their money from oil sales!
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 7:34:28 PM EDT
OK guys I dont have a suburban but an 86 Caprice wagon with a 305, its got a rochecter 4bbl carb. The engine was replaced at a GM dealership in 97 and had 3000mi on it when i bought it. Everything is stock, the old man took it to the dealership for all service work, Ive got the receipts and service record. What can i do to increase the performance of this car. Im not a mechanic so put in laymans terms for me.. Thanks Melvin [8D]
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 7:58:04 PM EDT
Originally Posted By grimshaw: Only an egopig would drive a Suburban daily. Improve your outlook on the rest of humanity by driving something smaller than 2 liters. Terrorists get their money from oil sales!
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Did you mean ECO instead of EGO?
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 8:09:38 PM EDT
Check out this web site. Its alot like this place but centered around chevy trucks. The Chevy & GMC Pickups Message Board [url]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/board/[/url]
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 8:13:30 PM EDT
Take the radiator cap off and drive a Ford under it.
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 8:43:30 PM EDT
I have just bought a 90' Chev Suburban w/ 245+++ miles on it. I also have the paperwork on most everything done to it for several years. I first contacted the last owner, they only had it for the last 2 years, no problems except they had the trans. worked on - otherwise fine. I then contacted the second previous owner, who lived in Montana, He traded for a larget tonnage unit to haul horses, but remarked no problems that were major, lot's of highway miles around montana to Washington and all. The original owner was from Spokane and traveled to S. Carolina very often and had no significant problems or repairs either. So here is what I got for $3200 ! 90' Suburban Silverado, with semi parched clear coat (don't they all?) Lots of miles and all receipts showeh no real ENGINE WORK! Highway miles boy's! Not them thar city choking miles. I have no smoke whatsoever, runs fairly smooth, and since I work too many hours, as soon as I can I will give it a tune up and all that, ad on a K&N Air filter from BusMaster007 (thanksBro') and how about a Edelbrock performer for a 350 cu. in.? Suspension is tow-beefed via Hellwig and has 30"x9.5x15, soon to be 33" by, what so you think, 10.5 or 12.5... Input please. after all this we should start a Off Road guide section for setting up our vehicles and goin' shootin' in them... NO? I don't write often workin' DAWG ya know! Thanks to all for this site and all that write in it! BEFORE THERE WERE SUV'S, THERE WERE JEEPS AND SUBURBANS !!!! I LUCKILY HAVE BOTH!
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 8:45:11 PM EDT
Originally Posted By misterhemi: First, go to mexico and purchase something called a Ramcharger. Remove the engine from said Ramcharger [;D]
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The man said nothing about needing a boat anchor. [;D]
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 8:51:59 PM EDT
As [b]nailbender[/b] said, by all means, do a thorough tune up first — putting headers, performance chip, K&N filter etc. on an out-of-tune engine is like putting mayonase on a sh*t sandwich! New plugs, spark plug wires and fuel filter(s) are just about essential first steps. Also, the vacuum hoses will probably be cracked and leaky in some out-of-the-way areas of the engine. New fuel hoses probably wouldn't be a bad idea, either. [b]Snorkel_Bob[/b] is absolutely correct about removing the restrictor in the air intake. As for headers, get a quality pair with thick mounting flanges — the cheaper ones will give you a new leak every other week. Doug Thorley makes good reasonably-priced models, Banks Engineering makes some nice (expensive) stainless steel ones that should last just about forever. Speaking of stainless, the exhaust systems on most brand-new cars and trucks is now stainless (and sometimes a very expensive grade at that). The reason is that aluminized steel just won't hold up long enough to meet the federal emissions warranty requirements. So, unless you don't mind replacing your exhaust system again in another 40-50K, it's probably worth paying the extra for a good stainless system up-front. Note that Flowmaster currently only offers aluminized mild steel models, with no significant warranty, either. Walker/Tenneco/DynoMax, Gibson and Borla all offer pretty good stainless steel systems. DEFINITELY power-flush the automatic transmission fluid, and replace the filter. Synthetic ATF is a little pricey as a replacement, but it lasts several times longer than conventional fluid, especially at high temperatures (towing).
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 9:40:18 PM EDT
Like Skibane said Doug Thorleys and Gibson are very good exhast makers. I have used both on the chevys and cant tell a big difference. I would go with the stainless steel because of the overall duribilty. PLus they look really cool when they get the heat coloring on them. Different shades of purple and orange. If you want the best in cat-back ehast I would go with Borla. But it is expensive. The tone isnt very loud, just enough rumble to know that its got soemthing done to it. Jacobs ignition systems are also recomended, but again they get pricey. But if this is something that you really want to spend some time and effort on then go for it.
Link Posted: 4/9/2002 10:57:08 PM EDT
I'll second the Thorley TRi-Y's. They are about the best header you can get. They never leak. But I would pass on the Jacobs. The best part about them is their advertising. I used them once and was very dissapointed. I've used MSD and was much happier.
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 3:06:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/10/2002 4:08:29 AM EDT by dissipator556]
Looks like I will go with a standard tune-up first. So, nobody recommends the fancy sparkplugs? NO splitfires, or anything like that?? As for the other mods, I forgot to say that I still put lots of highway miles on this baby, and that reliability is very important. The trans flush is something that Tire Kingdom wanted 60bucks to do, but I told them to jump in a lake. Maybe next time I will get it done. On second thought...I'm looking for a good GM dealership to take my baby to next time!
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 4:49:26 AM EDT
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 5:37:22 AM EDT
Originally Posted By misterhemi: First, go to mexico and purchase something called a Ramcharger.
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Preach on, misterhemi!! [url]http://howell.mountain.net/DodgeTruck/DodgeRamchargers.html[/url] DrMark
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 5:46:12 AM EDT
Ive tried useing the splitfire plugs in V-8 motors and I cant see a difference, yet I can feel a difference in 2 stroke motors that we have put them in. Like Striker mentioned, just get the AC plugs
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 6:16:34 AM EDT
You can always upgrade to a Dodge [:D]
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 6:35:23 AM EDT
dont forget at least a pair of mounts for miniguns, either popup through the hood or out from under the doors like Viper (tv show)
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 8:55:53 AM EDT
Fuzzy dice and steering wheel cover, Virgin Mary & St. Christopher, purple dot tail lights, chrome tach and gauges on dash, spinner for steering wheel, green plastic visor extensions, Hurst Shift handle on 4x4 selector, fender skirts, flame decals, lake pipes, kick ass stereo, camo decals. Hoses, belts, alternator, brake system, steering assembly, u-joints, flush cooling system. Check wiring for any worn spots, especially underneath truck and inside door boots, what ever you call them. Battery cables, especially ground point. Heater core and radiator may have enough crud in to plug holes then if it jars loose or when you clean out system they may run like a river. May be cheaper to get a 396 with twin quads if your state doesn't have an emissions test. Steering assembly. 4x4 transfer case fluid. Axles, lug bolts. Door seals, drain holes in doors open.
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 9:00:16 AM EDT
[url]www.stillen.com[/url]
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 2:45:05 PM EDT
Originally Posted By slt223:
Originally Posted By misterhemi: First, go to mexico and purchase something called a Ramcharger. Remove the engine from said Ramcharger [;D]
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The man said nothing about needing a boat anchor. [;D]
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Every boat (Suburban) need some good, fast iron [;D]
Link Posted: 4/11/2002 5:34:31 AM EDT
thanks to all who replied seriously... to those who recommended a F.uckin O.ld R.ebuilt D.odge or even a Dodge- you're dumber than I thought, because you can't read.
Link Posted: 4/11/2002 7:35:58 AM EDT
Ok, here is what I did to my 90 c1500 suburban. First replace all belts and hoses, including the heater hose that goes into the back of the engine on some models. Hardly anybody replaces those, and they are aluminum and rubber, so they may look good, but die about every 100k miles or so. While replacing the belts, check the tension idler. It should not be sloppy at all, if you have any doubts just replace it and save yourself the aggravation of thrown belt. Not a bad idea to check the fan clutch now and replace if needed. 4x4 suburbans need to have the front end checked for wear on the idler and pitman fairly often, and you should plan on replacing those. Put new plugs (bosch platinum) wiring, cap and rotor, and oxygen sensor. For muffler, a flowmaster three chamber big block will be quiet and very free flowing. After most of these mods to mine, I get 18 mpg at cruising speeds of 70 to 80 mph. got to go.
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