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Posted: 3/22/2002 9:53:55 AM EDT
on a 97 Ford Explorer...mine needs a new one.
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 9:56:07 AM EDT
The only thing I can think of is don't let the idler pully go. there may be others. Also remember the sequence
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 10:09:09 AM EDT
Use a "BRAND NAME" belt, OR better,they cost more, but LAST!I opted for a cheap one on another type vechicle and when it broke,weeks later,had to replace alot more=water punp,rad,etc.THe tension spring on the s10s have a tendency to break im told.Good luck!
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 10:11:59 AM EDT
Yea...for $60 any decent garage will do it and do it right. You really need a special tool to do it and those cost around $25 plus the belt cost $20 it really is the better way to go. sgtar15
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 10:30:01 AM EDT
On most cars you will find a schematic of the pulley belt sequence, so don't worry too much. I still put my own on, and looking forward to the day my Grandson can do it for me! On my Jeeps, the tension idler pulley is [u]fixed[/u], meaning there is no spring, you must adjust tension on the belt by moving the attaching bolts. Much, much more work is involved. Dagnabbit, ya' young whippersnapper! Whoops! Sorry, for a moment there, I [u]was[/u] my own Grandpaw! Eric The(I'mMyselfAgain)Hun[>]:)]
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 12:14:41 PM EDT
Originally Posted By sgtar15: Yea...for $60 any decent garage will do it and do it right. You really need a special tool to do it and those cost around $25 plus the belt cost $20 it really is the better way to go. sgtar15
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Uh OH...I didn't know you needed any special tools, what sort of tool do you mean? I have a brother who is a mechanic, maybe he can do it for me.
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 8:48:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/22/2002 8:50:15 PM EDT by prk]
Originally Posted By ECS:
Originally Posted By sgtar15: Yea...for $60 any decent garage will do it and do it right. You really need a special tool to do it and those cost around $25 plus the belt cost $20 it really is the better way to go. sgtar15
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Uh OH...I didn't know you needed any special tools, what sort of tool do you mean? I have a brother who is a mechanic, maybe he can do it for me.
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If it's like mine was, it was tricky because of the spring-loaded idler puller which is where the special tool was used. Except, I couldn't get one, so I wound up using a combination of a line-up tool's flat end, plus a small crow-bar (in two different places, simultaneously). That made it a two-person job. By the time I got the technique down, I had ruined one idler pully and broke a piece out of the side of the second one (it was still OK). Bet I did it 50 times over the years due to water pumps, alternators, smog pump, etc. Eventually I was able to do it by myself. Carefully. So watch your brother do it. I think the 'special tool' could easily be fabricated by a welder wtih a little trial & error. You just don't want to lose your bite and let the spring arm go loose. Something's bound to break.
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 9:24:36 PM EDT
According to my mechanic friend "Stubby", he's says it's easier to change the belt with the engine not running. coyote3
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 10:21:20 PM EDT
Belt - Preferably Gates. Goodyear second best. Lisle makes a tool kit for snake belts that has saved my knickles over and over on my mother-in-law's 93 Sable. It is a long flat lever with another extension lever (can be put on at an angle) and various sockets and bits for difference attachments. Most that I have seen are 1/2" square drive, but some are also metric hex. The bit you need should be in the Lisle kit - and the kit goes for less than $40 most places. The Lisle will give you enough leverage to easily release the tensioner and control the release. I usually change that belt on that be-damned sidewise engine by myself with the thing - you don't need to pull until you are ready to slip the belt back under the tensioner. The toolkit is worth the cash - it will pay for itself the first or second time you use it. If you can't find the kit, the next best things is to use a breaker bar and socket (or drive tip) and use a pipe entension to make the thing require less effort and to give you more control. Either way will work. It should take you 15-20 minutes (and one beer) to change the belt. It will be easy for you since your engine isn't wedged in sidewise... ETH - what Jeep do you have? Just wondering... FFZ
Link Posted: 3/22/2002 10:28:20 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/23/2002 3:48:58 AM EDT
Link Posted: 3/23/2002 7:21:02 AM EDT
Originally Posted By sgtar15: Yea...for $60 any decent garage will do it and do it right. You really need a special tool to do it and those cost around $25 plus the belt cost $20 it really is the better way to go. sgtar15
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9 times out of 10, the "special tool" is just a long breaker bar with the socket on the end. Otherwise the "special tool" is "Fred, get over here and help me with this."
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