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Posted: 3/12/2002 4:17:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/13/2002 1:06:22 PM EDT by Steamy_Windows]
I like the look and sound of dual pipes on a pickup and want to put them on my truck, a 2001 360 Dodge 4X4 autotrans, (no plowing) but I am afraid they will void the trucks warrantee. I called two dealers and got two different answers. What concerns me is possibly leaning out the fuel mixture so much that I burn the oxygen sensor out causing an openloop/cripple situation. Has anyone experienced engine problems while running dual pipes on their truck? And who makes the best sounding stainless bolt on kit. Thanks S_W edited to include make, year and motor size It was nice outside today so I washed my truck. Now do I put the duals straight out the back or do I angle them behind the rear wheels? I like them both ways. How is yours? [img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid25/pf28d33ce2b002d3f468f1344e6fba7db/fddfca34.jpg[/img]
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 4:21:57 PM EDT
Dual exhaust will void the factory warranty. Most aftermarket exhaust kits, especially dually conversions, require modifications. I have a rear dually exhaust on my Ford Ranger XLT 4X4 Stepside Crew Cab. It looks mean as hell, growls like a Nascar, and gets great gas mileage. It is a 6cyl and it sounds like a V8. I have a Magnaflo muffler, tips, and tube. 3" tubes. Very throaty sound.
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 4:27:26 PM EDT
Dont worry about leaning out your fuel mixture, todays computer controled engins make thousands of calculations a minute to control the fuel mixture. They take into account outside air temp, air pressure, engine temp. coolent temp ect,ect,ect. BKVic
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 4:42:38 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 5:05:59 PM EDT
What Type of truck you have? What engine do you have? Do you do towing or Snow plowing? Do you have oversized Tires (really doesn't matter) but sometimes it does. Depending on Truck I would go with a dual exhaust H pipe set up. You have to get the O2 sensor repositioned onto the H pipe. That’s if it is an In Line 6cyl. V-8 usually has O2 in each exhaust. Then some have pre-cat sensors and post-cat sensors. Ford is good for that. Now 2 things to think about Backpressure and Flow. Usually if you go with bigger diameter pipes through turbo mufflers, you decrease back flow, which could reduce backpressure. Sometimes backpressure is brought into the equation on lower compression engines. You need it for certain 6 and 4 cylinder engines. Try a turbo flow system but I would highly recommend an H pipe dual system. Also think of headers and high flow converter since your going to void the warranty.
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 6:21:12 PM EDT
Ditto the above posts, to also recommend the installation of an equalizing/crossover tube the first third of the new plumbing. In doing this, you will smooth out the pulses of exhaust pressure that are a result of V8 dual exhaust systems, and make for substantially less noise whenever you back off a throttle at highway speeds, increasing engine vacuum. A point to consider also would be to engineer it in such a way as to be able to "tune" the exhaust after it's installed. The simplest way would be to use 2-2.5 inch pipe, with at least 12" of die straight plumbing, again in the first third, that can be accessed once the truck is up on a lift. A little backpressure is a good thing, and in configuring it like this, you'll have plenty of room to be able to go in to that particular section of plumbing, and tack weld an oversized washer into the loop should it be needed. Another consideration is to not use stainless steel, as the initial cost does not warrant the overall long term cost of a standard piped arrangement; that, and it's damned near impossible to flame cut stainless cleanly, and thus makes any experimentation triple-difficult. Walker Hi-flow mufflers work well, (or did; I haven't been keeping up on hot rodding in a long time), and give a nice balance of rumble without an over-loud report that can grate on you after 2 hours, and seems to be like ringing a dinner bell for cops.
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 7:41:42 PM EDT
Thanks guys, I will print this info out. S_W
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 7:55:21 PM EDT
Remember they have to prove that your mod caused the failure. You would void the waaranty on a few things but not on anything not directly related. My .02 Blair
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 8:00:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/12/2002 8:01:25 PM EDT by bill3508]
Steamy, Dual exhaust will not void the factory warranty. Do you think all these new trucks you see on the road have lost their warranty because of dual exhaust. Whatever dealer tells you it will void is warranty is just trying to get away with something. If you change the headers on the truck then your warranty probably will be voided, but an aftermarket exhaust system will not. Borla make a great system, but its pricey. A flowmaster 3 chamber system will also sound good without being too loud. Don't worry about your warranty at all, I would not cut of the converter though as that may cause more problems with the warranty issue. I have had numerous dual exhaust kits on cars and truck and have had no problems with warranty coverage. If some idiot service guys tell you different laugh in his face and call his words what they are, bs. THese people will try to get away with anything. Bill3508
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 8:17:57 PM EDT
I have a 2001 Silverado shortbed stepside with about 28,000 miles that I bought in Sept of 2000. First thing I did was put 2 Flowmasters from both cats straight out the back. It is only a 4.8 liter 270 hp and it sounds like a 454 big block. I have had no problems whatsoever with lean fuel mixtures (thats what computers are for) or excessive noise :) and my dealer smiles when I roll into the lot for an oil change.
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 9:03:42 PM EDT
Flowmaster mufflers are excellent.
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...but they aren't stainless, and they don't hold up as well as good-quality stainless. [url=www.borla.com]Borla[/url] and [url=www.gibsonperformance.com]Gibson[/url] make pretty good all-stainless systems. Some of the pricier [url=www.dynomax.com]Dynomax[/url] systems are also stainless and pretty decent. If paying top dollar for a well-engineered system isn't a problem, consider the [url=www.getpower.com]Gale Banks Engineering[/url] products, too.
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 9:07:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/12/2002 9:09:09 PM EDT by deadeye47]
Had a guy custom weld a big glass pack with a Y PAST the catalatic converter on my 93 XLT V8. Ran pipes around spare and terminate in two slash cut 5 Inch chrome extensions out the back. [shock] Sounds great! Wish I had done it 105,000 miles sooner. [:D]
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 9:08:14 PM EDT
Go with a Flowmaster, if possible.
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 9:27:45 PM EDT
If you just want two pipes running out the back, go to billy bob's muffler shop and he'll hook you up. If you want to GO and get better mileage to boot, then install a set of Mopar Performance headers and a COMPLETE 3" single exhaust system - INCLUDING 3" high flow cat. When I bought my exhaust and cat, the best prices I found were at [url]http://www.a-1performance.com/[/url] For the best prices - at least a few years ago - on the headers: Huffines Dodge in Lewisville, Tx. 972-434-1276 talk to Kelly Tell Kelly Tate sent you Or Westoaks Dodge in Thousand Oaks, Ca. 800-748-6118 talk to Troy You will not be disappointed with this set up. Tips to follow....
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 9:29:59 PM EDT
I did my exhaust homework with the small block streetable Mopar trucks. Here's a mail I posted on a Mopar performance site: Good move - the tri-Y design and 2 ¼ to 3" Y will outperform other header designs right off the bat. Maybe slightly harder to install than shorties because they weigh more, and they aren't SS or coated (unless you ordered them with no chrome and had them coated) but you WILL NOT be disappointed with performance. TIPS - from someone who has installed them twice: 1. Be damned sure that you remove every freaking grain of weld that has overflowed into the backside of the primary to head flange bolt holes. If you remove a little extra material, don't sweat it. I ended up drilling the second hole from the rear on the passenger bank 1/16 oversize to get it to fit - guarantee you it didn't make a bit of difference in the header's position on the head. The fit is tight as hell!!!! 2. Check to make sure that you don't need to trim the uppermost floorboard heatshield self tapping screw on the passenger side. Mine was up against one of the bends in the passenger header and I had to pull the carpet to get the screw out, shorten it, then get a friend with skinnier arms than mine to cram his arm up in between the header and shield to reinstall the screw's nut. Pain in the butt!!! 3. You can use sealer if you wish, but it was recommended to me to use none - I didn't - zero leaks. 4. If you don't have a thin walled 3/8 socket, get one if you can or grind the wall thinner on a cheap Taiwan socket - deep socket works best. Five minutes of grinding might only save five minutes of turning 1/8 turn at a time, but then you've got the socket to use for subsequent header tightening sessions. I ret-tightened mine twice - no leaks. 5. If you can borrow (or are inclined to buy) a grinder before you get started, do it. A few of the ARP bolt's flanges will need grinding for sure. 6. If you can borrow (or are inclined to buy) a sawsall, do it. Makes cutting off the old Y a beautiful thing!! Easy!! The dyno won't lie - ask Mike Clark - he did a before and after with his Thorleys (same header). 23 hp if I remember correctly. Sound wonderful too. Good luck and enjoy! Tate
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 9:38:39 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Tate: I did my exhaust homework with the small block streetable Mopar trucks. Here's a mail I posted on a Mopar performance site: Good move - the tri-Y design and 2 ¼ to 3" Y will outperform other header designs right off the bat. Maybe slightly harder to install than shorties because they weigh more, and they aren't SS or coated (unless you ordered them with no chrome and had them coated) but you WILL NOT be disappointed with performance. TIPS - from someone who has installed them twice: 1. Be damned sure that you remove every freaking grain of weld that has overflowed into the backside of the primary to head flange bolt holes. If you remove a little extra material, don't sweat it. I ended up drilling the second hole from the rear on the passenger bank 1/16 oversize to get it to fit - guarantee you it didn't make a bit of difference in the header's position on the head. The fit is tight as hell!!!! 2. Check to make sure that you don't need to trim the uppermost floorboard heatshield self tapping screw on the passenger side. Mine was up against one of the bends in the passenger header and I had to pull the carpet to get the screw out, shorten it, then get a friend with skinnier arms than mine to cram his arm up in between the header and shield to reinstall the screw's nut. Pain in the butt!!! 3. You can use sealer if you wish, but it was recommended to me to use none - I didn't - zero leaks. 4. If you don't have a thin walled 3/8 socket, get one if you can or grind the wall thinner on a cheap Taiwan socket - deep socket works best. Five minutes of grinding might only save five minutes of turning 1/8 turn at a time, but then you've got the socket to use for subsequent header tightening sessions. I ret-tightened mine twice - no leaks. 5. If you can borrow (or are inclined to buy) a grinder before you get started, do it. A few of the ARP bolt's flanges will need grinding for sure. 6. If you can borrow (or are inclined to buy) a sawsall, do it. Makes cutting off the old Y a beautiful thing!! Easy!! The dyno won't lie - ask Mike Clark - he did a before and after with his Thorleys (same header). 23 hp if I remember correctly. Sound wonderful too. Good luck and enjoy! Tate
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Tate my Billy Bob set up cost me $140 bucks His labor and parts. How much did that X-tra 23 H.P. cost ya? Mine sounds good too.
Link Posted: 3/12/2002 9:53:26 PM EDT
Again, thanks for all the info, you guys got it together. I would never have guessed that there were that many different systems out there, I thought they were all basically the same thing. I will study your comments before I do anything. S_W
Link Posted: 3/13/2002 2:15:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/13/2002 2:17:59 AM EDT by ShortyAK]
I have a 1998 RAM 1500 with the 360 (minus the 4x4) and I added a K&N Filter, Edelbrock Headers and a Flowmaster system to it. It sounds great and I can definitely feel the added power and torque. I have almost 60,000 miles on my truck so I didn't worry about the warranty aspect of it very much.
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